Change Spark Pugs at 70,000 Vs recommended 100,000 Miles

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Zoe Saldana

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I've read many posts that people have changed their spark plugs at 100K and the plugs still look good.

I have 70K miles and looking to do all the maintenance I can. Will I see any benefits to changing the plugs now vs 100K?

Thanks
 

crash68

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Unless your having any misfire codes or running/starting issues probably no reason to change them early. You can do what's mentioned about pulling a few for good measure.
In a different vehicle I ran a set of plugs to 116K before a misfire code, plug gap was a little over on the old ones. Didn't notice any improvement after new plugs.
 
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Zoe Saldana

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Unless your having any misfire codes or running/starting issues probably no reason to change them early. You can do what's mentioned about pulling a few for good measure.
In a different vehicle I ran a set of plugs to 116K before a misfire code, plug gap was a little over on the old ones. Didn't notice any improvement after new plugs.
Thanks
 

HEMIMANN

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Whichever model year the cutover was to non-waste-spark ignition, they went to high energy coils. The first coils were not, for some reason. Maybe a leftover part number from the old 318's & 360's? Anyway, that's why they had to use non-coated plugs (copper only) and change @ 30k miles. I know because I had one of those (MY 2007) and researched it.

If you have the newer model & ignition, they come with double iridium-tipped, narrow electrode plugs that burn clean for a long time. Members are reporting the life (as exhibited by tip erosion and arc flashover) is north of 100k miles. I concur there's no reason to pull sans rough running and/or fault codes.

There was a lot of debate what to replace with, seems to have settled on OEM spec, though buy direct from NGK instead of giving Mopar their markup. I was thinking of downgrading to platinum for lower cost, but there was some debate about change in resistance affecting ECM programming. Also, I see platinum erosion @ 100k, needs changing @ 50k.

I see no need for NGK's promoting their latest rare earth coated plug, ruthenium. NGK claims it provides better spark, with hi-speed ignition photos to prove it, and even longer life. For even higher cost, of course. What that translates to in the real world, I haven't seen. Would have to be better fuel mileage and/or power, for me to try them.
 

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If you are bored and like tinkering why not change them? I have always changed my plugs early and like changing oil early makes me feel warm and fuzzy even if there is no need for it......
 

DILLIGAF

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I change mine every 2 years.
 

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cheap to do especially if doing yourself. Aluminum heads always scared me if plugs left in too long. Even though they didn't call for it til (back then I think it was) around 80k I did the ones in my Mom's Intrepid every 30k whether they needed them or not. In 23 years that car barely got to 105k. You can do them yourself 3-4 times for what they would charge you if you took it in.
I just about lost my cookies a bit ago. Even though I just bought a truck yesterday I was still checking out trucks on CL, kind of an anti "buyers remorse" thing I guess,
Ive seen some listings on CL that show reciepts for recent work done along with the sales listings. One was a water pump job on a 318 Magnum in a late 90s Dodge pickup. That guy got ***** for $722 just to do his water pump.
It cant hurt. Ive seen Caravans at work (same supposed 100k recommended interval) come in with a misfire at 44k. New plugs cured it.
I just bought a 12 with a 4.7. 93k miles. I'm getting onto Rock auto soon as Im done browsing this site for now and ordering plugs wires, coil boots (are they replaceable seperately on these?) a belt, a set of hoses, etc "just because".
 
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Zoe Saldana

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Whichever model year the cutover was to non-waste-spark ignition, they went to high energy coils. The first coils were not, for some reason. Maybe a leftover part number from the old 318's & 360's? Anyway, that's why they had to use non-coated plugs (copper only) and change @ 30k miles. I know because I had one of those (MY 2007) and researched it.

If you have the newer model & ignition, they come with double iridium-tipped, narrow electrode plugs that burn clean for a long time. Members are reporting the life (as exhibited by tip erosion and arc flashover) is north of 100k miles. I concur there's no reason to pull sans rough running and/or fault codes.

There was a lot of debate what to replace with, seems to have settled on OEM spec, though buy direct from NGK instead of giving Mopar their markup. I was thinking of downgrading to platinum for lower cost, but there was some debate about change in resistance affecting ECM programming. Also, I see platinum erosion @ 100k, needs changing @ 50k.

I see no need for NGK's promoting their latest rare earth coated plug, ruthenium. NGK claims it provides better spark, with hi-speed ignition photos to prove it, and even longer life. For even higher cost, of course. What that translates to in the real world, I haven't seen. Would have to be better fuel mileage and/or power, for me to try them.
Thanks I'm now leaning toward not doing it. I don't have any problems, I just have the time and thinking of what to do at 70K miles.
 
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Zoe Saldana

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cheap to do especially if doing yourself. Aluminum heads always scared me if plugs left in too long. Even though they didn't call for it til (back then I think it was) around 80k I did the ones in my Mom's Intrepid every 30k whether they needed them or not. In 23 years that car barely got to 105k. You can do them yourself 3-4 times for what they would charge you if you took it in.
I just about lost my cookies a bit ago. Even though I just bought a truck yesterday I was still checking out trucks on CL, kind of an anti "buyers remorse" thing I guess,
Ive seen some listings on CL that show reciepts for recent work done along with the sales listings. One was a water pump job on a 318 Magnum in a late 90s Dodge pickup. That guy got ***** for $722 just to do his water pump.
It cant hurt. Ive seen Caravans at work (same supposed 100k recommended interval) come in with a misfire at 44k. New plugs cured it.
I just bought a 12 with a 4.7. 93k miles. I'm getting onto Rock auto soon as Im done browsing this site for now and ordering plugs wires, coil boots (are they replaceable seperately on these?) a belt, a set of hoses, etc "just because".
I had a Dakota 3.9l - so easy to work on.
 

Johnny_B-Good

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I changed my plugs from platinum to laser when I bought my used Laramie. Peace of mind I guess. The old plugs were just that, old. Close enough to swap out in my opinion. And I'm glad I did, cause the laser iridium plugs helped resolve a few issues. Now the truck starts fast. And the response when I get into the pedal is enough to put a big old smile on my mug too. But, this was going from platinum to laser iridium. Now, will I see any more improvement from laser iridium to ruthenium? Can't really improve on the faster starts (unless is can start right up at the mere thought of starting the truck). As for performance from the gas pedal, I don't see how a plug will increase it any more than it already has. I decided to stick to what is proven, by many others right here in this forum. And honestly, they were right about the laser iridium plugs.

No matter what plug you decide to go with, I hope it works out for you and leaves you happy with your decision.
 

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I’m noticing idle at startup is seraching and I ‘m at 32,000 I have no quams about changing them every 30,000.

Do you have difficulty indexing long reach plugs ?
 
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I wound up getting the Laser plugs for the intake side and Champion iridium for the exhaust (otherwise I would have had to pay Rock Auto's shipping twice, eliminating much of the savings buying from there vs local) actually never heard of teh "laser" plugs. NGK had 2 Iridium choices, one "laser" and one not... pennies a piece, difference between them.
I notice that there are different intervals for the intake side plugs vs the exhaust side plugs. RA showed lots of copper plug choices for the intake side. Was this how they came stock?
 

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RockAuto is a preferred vendor on this forum

I know their prices are great, i don't know if you can get a coupon # or something if you order through this forum
 

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Thanks I'm now leaning toward not doing it. I don't have any problems, I just have the time and thinking of what to do at 70K miles.

Yeah, due to another lengthy thread, I'm not changing until 100k miles. Esp. with 16 to replace. Posters said they came out ok despite aluminum head. NGK (makes Mopar plugs) claims their thread coating doesn't need anti seize. May be true? Pulling the boots is usually the beetch job these days.
 

HEMIMANN

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I wound up getting the Laser plugs for the intake side and Champion iridium for the exhaust (otherwise I would have had to pay Rock Auto's shipping twice, eliminating much of the savings buying from there vs local) actually never heard of teh "laser" plugs. NGK had 2 Iridium choices, one "laser" and one not... pennies a piece, difference between them.
I notice that there are different intervals for the intake side plugs vs the exhaust side plugs. RA showed lots of copper plug choices for the intake side. Was this how they came stock?

My manual says nothing about different change intervals based on plug location.
Also, NGK's terminology is poor. All their iridium coated electrodes are laser welded, but only the one they call laser coats both electrodes. The other nonlaser iridium coats only the center electrode. That should be sufficient for a nonwastespark engine, but they claim coating both still helps extend life somehow. I plan to use the laser dual coating.
 

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I just had my plugs changes at 98500 miles. They look good, but my MPG when up by at least 1 to 2 mpg after the PVC and plugs where changed. I now hit 21 mpg more often and even at 15 F degrees. I am glad I went by the book. I had the plugs done, oil change and tires balanced and rotated it came it $756. Not cheap, but I have been going to the same dealer for 20 years and service has been very good.
 

HEMIMANN

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I'd wager a new PCV valve had the major impact. We experienced major losses of power on engines with restricted PCV's at work (these from icing in adverse weather test conditions).

Engine Masters ran dyno tests on all types of spark plugs, worn, new, etc., and saw little difference in output. In other words, unless the combustible mixture isn't burning thoroughly, there's not much difference. So why change spark plugs? Because we don't know exactly when they will become that worn. That's why we change at different intervals to see when the electrodes start to erode and arc-flash over. But it may become more difficult to pull the wiring boot and unscrew the plug if we wait too long. I had a helluva time pulling plug boots on my big block Chevy in my motorhome. Plugs were too close to the exhaust manifold and got thermally welded to the boots!

My experience has been 30 k miles for nickel coating, 50k miles for platinum coating, 100k miles for iridium coating, who-knows-what for ruthenium coating.
 
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