Rebuilding Rear end

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sentrek

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So what is the difficulty level in rebuilding a rear end? Mine is shot, warranty is expired and I don't have thousands to take it to a dealer right now.
I took it to the local garage to have it diagnosed, wasnt sure is it was a wheel bearing on something else. They wont touch it. its a 2014 Sport 4x4
 

Livinalittle

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I like to think I'm a fairly competent backyard mechanic; with that said, I would really weigh my options when it comes to a rebuild. Tearing down your diff to change out axel seals is one thing; you're just putting everything back where you found it.
I'm not sure how comfortable I would be measuring backlash, adding shims, and confidently saying it's good to go... but that's just me.

I'm sure it's nothing a few YouTube videos couldn't fix though :popcorn:
 

Moose2

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I like to think I'm a fairly competent backyard mechanic; with that said, I would really weigh my options when it comes to a rebuild. Tearing down your diff to change out axel seals is one thing; you're just putting everything back where you found it.
I'm not sure how comfortable I would be measuring backlash, adding shims, and confidently saying it's good to go... but that's just me.

I'm sure it's nothing a few YouTube videos couldn't fix though :popcorn:
That describes me, except I have done enough Rebuilds to know that there is always something that comes up that wasn’t planned on. One needs to be finicky when setting up a ring And pinion, not particularly hard, but not somethingI want to be under a truck doing. Older I get, bench is my best friend…….as is the lift.
 

18CrewDually

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If you're considering rebuilding the rear axle, I'd first inspect and find what's wore first. Do you have a bearing bad, excessive noise, alot of backlash, all the above.....ect?
You may be able to get away with just pinion bearing and/or carrier bearing replacement and/or diff replacement.
Then there is the proper tools. Dial indicator, mesh paste, bearing puller/ press, ftlb torque wrench (ring gear, pinion nut, and cap bolts), an inlb torque wrench (checking pinion bearing preload), micrometer/ calipers, then common tools, ect..
But if you don't want to find out how shot it is, probably a low mileage swap from an auto recycler would be the fastest, easiest, & possibly cheapest.
 
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GTyankee

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Why would the shop say that they would not touch it ?
There had to be reason , like it is jacked up or modified in some other way ?

Most shops would remove the fill plug & put their index finger in it to see if they could touch fluid as a first step.
spinning the tires to try to hear a noise, might be done

Then removing the inspection cover & studying the fluid for metal bits & pieces.

Then a visual inspection of the ring gear for chipped teeth or strange wear, then the same is done with the pinion gear & finally the spider gears or LSD

Then you may have to pull the axles & check the bearings

With all that information, you know whether or not if it needs work done on it or not & an good estimate of what it will cost
 

18CrewDually

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Why would the shop say that they would not touch it ?
There had to be reason , like it is jacked up or modified in some other way ?

Most shops would remove the fill plug & put their index finger in it to see if they could touch fluid as a first step.
spinning the tires to try to hear a noise, might be done

Then removing the inspection cover & studying the fluid for metal bits & pieces.

Then a visual inspection of the ring gear for chipped teeth or strange wear, then the same is done with the pinion gear & finally the spider gears or LSD

Then you may have to pull the axles & check the bearings

With all that information, you know whether or not if it needs work done on it or not & an good estimate of what it will cost

They probably don't have the capability to do a full rebuild.
You know it takes wizardry with a side of witchcraft to do , right?
 

Phirebeard

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Swapping out the parts is one thing, getting everything aligned correctly is another thing entirely. Like others have said, replacing the whole rear is probably the best option if you've never changed diff parts before.
 

Daw14

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A 4x4 or off-road shop does these set ups on a regular basis, I would go In that direction if repairing.
 

22hemi13

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Heck yeah a scrap yard axle is a super fast swap and cheaper. Prolly get whole rear end for less than $800. Gears can be hard to come by right now and then if it’s not right you’re right back in there doing it again.
 

GTyankee

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I think it strange that a garage would not check the fluid level & remove the inspection cover, UNLESS they heard the truck driving in.

Once the cover is off, most brands of ring gears have the ratio stamped into it, so a person could know what to shop for.
Of course, a build sheet would have that information on it
 

CamperMike

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I know on my mustang I went to one shop that wouldn't work on the rear end they just wanted to swap in a junkyard axle. That was expensive on that car. They were not comfortable working on the rear end and i think that's getting more common.
I found a transmission and driveline shop that was willing to service it though and it cost half as much as replacing the axle with used parts even though it needed all bearings and seals.
 

pacofortacos

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If the gears are fine and it's just bearing, it isn't too bad to do, but you still need a few special tools. Usually don't have to worry about pinion depth if keeping the stock gears as the stock shims work in most cases - at least in my experience, but you still have the crush sleeve to do.
To be honest, it usually is a skill level above shade tree mechanic.

Junk yard replacement is usually the best option if possible.
 

DILLIGAF

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Just get a Crush sleeve eliminator. Best thing since slice bread.
 

Bandit1859

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So what is the difficulty level in rebuilding a rear end? Mine is shot, warranty is expired and I don't have thousands to take it to a dealer right now.
I took it to the local garage to have it diagnosed, wasnt sure is it was a wheel bearing on something else. They wont touch it. its a 2014 Sport 4x4
Junkyard one is the way to go
 

Marshall

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They probably don't have the capability to do a full rebuild.
You know it takes wizardry with a side of witchcraft to do , right?
They could be one of those places that changes oil, sells shocks, and brake pad , needed or not. Any fool can lift it and check the oil, U joints, without much work. Or too much work?
 

CaptQ

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DILLIGAF. Said it right. Get the tools you don’t have, do your homework and GetRDun.

The reason most shops won’t touch axle rebuilds is it’s time consuming and they’re not setup to do the work correctly. Axle swaps the easy way but what have you learned. I was doing ring/pinion swaps in drag cars starting at age 14 in the 70’s. It’s not beyond you IF you take your time and measure, measure and measure, read the paint, then repeat until you get the correct paint and lash readings. Used gears are the toughest to read. The drive side can be misleading so read the coast side (applies to USED gears)

DANA/AAM - Quickest way is to buy 2 sets of carrier/pinion bearings, grind out the centers of one set so you don’t have to press them on and off. Once you have the readings you want press on the fresh set, then verify. Crush sleeve can be the biggest frustration if you rush it. GM - just extra pinion bearing. 9” - Awe yes - 9” Ford - they make it much more comfortable. Removable 3rd member.
 

Sherman Bird

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So what is the difficulty level in rebuilding a rear end? Mine is shot, warranty is expired and I don't have thousands to take it to a dealer right now.
I took it to the local garage to have it diagnosed, wasnt sure is it was a wheel bearing on something else. They wont touch it. its a 2014 Sport 4x4
Why won't they touch it? The difficulty level is pretty high depending upon the skill level of who does the work in conjunction with their diligence. The suggestion to get a salvage unit is the most cost effective, but make sure you get documentation of the donor vehicle's VIN and mileage. LKQ provides this info. Good luck!
 
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