Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 235 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 399 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 661 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,776

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tjfdesmo

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NP - I'm not a fan boy per se. I'm reaching the end of the line and always wanted a Harley, so I got one last year. I fully realize they're not state-of-the-art, sexy, or otherwise the latest thing. I enjoy riding it, good enough.
Totally understand.
 

HEMIMANN

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And so, in the boredom of winter I decided to write Red Line in case they might respond. Suprise - they responded!

I've attached my question and their response below for member benefit. It is not a matter of what I believe, or what my opinion is. Members can decide for themselves if the reply is accurate or not.

I will add a little background chemistry, however (easily googled, thanks @Burla ). Base motor oil stock can not be 100% PAO or POE. Why? PAO is so uniform and linear it can not dissolve necessary additives - they drop out. They're in suspension, not solution. A small amount of "ester" (POE), ~ 1-2% MUST be added to carry the additives in solution. Mobil used to say so on their Mobil 1 containers long ago, I don't recall them doing so these days since this is old knowledge. Further, PAO causes NBR rubber seals to shrink and harden, causing leaks. This is also well known and is countered by "esters" (POE), see below.

Base motor oil stock can not be 100% POE because it causes NBR rubber seals to swell and soften - they can be destroyed, causing a catastrophic leak. Some PAO has to be added to counteract. Besides, POE is more expensive than PAO, so the blending only needs as much POE as needed for the desired performance properties.

Red Line isn't about to tell us what their proprietary blend % is, and I'm not going to be so forward and rude to ask them.

[ME]
Enquiry: Hello,
Thank you for your commitment to performance lubricants. I would like to know if the High Performance Motor Oils are all polyol ester base stock oil. The spec sheet sort of says that, then says it's a blend:

"Full-synthetic ester formula for passenger cars, light trucks, performance vehicles and marine applications"

"Blended with polyol ester base stocks that feature natural multi-grade properties, avoiding unnecessary additives that hinder lubricity"


[Red Line]

Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, the High Performance products are a bend of synthetic base stocks, ester and PAO.

Regards,

Dave Granquist
P: (+1) 707.751.2914 |
O: (+1) 707.745.6100 |
6100 Egret Ct | Benicia, CA 94510

Red Line Synthetic Oil
 

Travis8352

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Burla

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Good info on the Hemi oil pump

gonna have to find 1/2 to complete that, another great post thanks corey. One thing a guy with hemi tick can do is see if he has hemi tick at cold idle when the rpm's knocked up, if he doesn't, then this might be the solution we all were looking for? Get more oil at warm idle to levels more closer to cold idle. If you are knocking at cold idle, this may still be beneficial but these would be the most serious ticks imo, in other words you have have cold and warm idle tick, your f'd.
 

Travis8352

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gonna have to find 1/2 to complete that, another great post thanks corey. One thing a guy with hemi tick can do is see if he has hemi tick at cold idle when the rpm's knocked up, if he doesn't, then this might be the solution we all were looking for? Get more oil at warm idle to levels more closer to cold idle. If you are knocking at cold idle, this may still be beneficial but these would be the most serious ticks imo, in other words you have have cold and warm idle tick, your f'd.
Good point as hot idle tick is the worst tick imo. And a run of the mill synthetic 5w20 is generally around 32-34 psi at hot idle and i think ive seen some say their at 26 psi hot idle. I wonder what hot idle psi would be for someone after a hard run on a hot day with oil temps in the 225-240 on 5w20. The hellcat pump seems to be a very promising prevention
 

MontanaHandyman

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And so, in the boredom of winter I decided to write Red Line in case they might respond. Suprise - they responded!

I've attached my question and their response below for member benefit. It is not a matter of what I believe, or what my opinion is. Members can decide for themselves if the reply is accurate or not.

I will add a little background chemistry, however (easily googled, thanks @Burla ). Base motor oil stock can not be 100% PAO or POE. Why? PAO is so uniform and linear it can not dissolve necessary additives - they drop out. They're in suspension, not solution. A small amount of "ester" (POE), ~ 1-2% MUST be added to carry the additives in solution. Mobil used to say so on their Mobil 1 containers long ago, I don't recall them doing so these days since this is old knowledge. Further, PAO causes NBR rubber seals to shrink and harden, causing leaks. This is also well known and is countered by "esters" (POE), see below.

Base motor oil stock can not be 100% POE because it causes NBR rubber seals to swell and soften - they can be destroyed, causing a catastrophic leak. Some PAO has to be added to counteract. Besides, POE is more expensive than PAO, so the blending only needs as much POE as needed for the desired performance properties.

Red Line isn't about to tell us what their proprietary blend % is, and I'm not going to be so forward and rude to ask them.

[ME]
Enquiry: Hello,
Thank you for your commitment to performance lubricants. I would like to know if the High Performance Motor Oils are all polyol ester base stock oil. The spec sheet sort of says that, then says it's a blend:

"Full-synthetic ester formula for passenger cars, light trucks, performance vehicles and marine applications"

"Blended with polyol ester base stocks that feature natural multi-grade properties, avoiding unnecessary additives that hinder lubricity"


[Red Line]

Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, the High Performance products are a bend of synthetic base stocks, ester and PAO.

Regards,

Dave Granquist
P: (+1) 707.751.2914 |
O: (+1) 707.745.6100 |
6100 Egret Ct | Benicia, CA 94510

Red Line Synthetic Oil
Appreciate the footwork there...thanks!
 

HEMIMANN

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Good point as hot idle tick is the worst tick imo. And a run of the mill synthetic 5w20 is generally around 32-34 psi at hot idle and i think ive seen some say their at 26 psi hot idle. I wonder what hot idle psi would be for someone after a hard run on a hot day with oil temps in the 225-240 on 5w20. The hellcat pump seems to be a very promising prevention

The now-discontinued GM / Chevy big block 8.1L V8 had a notoriously weak oil pump. We used the industrial variant in power generators at work, this is a fact. It only had about 15 psi oil pressure hot. It also used roller lifters, but DID NOT TICK or fail cams!!!! We ran thousands of these engines - not one failed lifters or cams. We did blow some pistons, but that was due to propane and ignition timing "events" (fun for engineers).

Absolutely because GM fed those lifters and cam with enough oil FLOW at low pressure so not to fail. Hemi's are starved.
 

Hemi395

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Good point as hot idle tick is the worst tick imo. And a run of the mill synthetic 5w20 is generally around 32-34 psi at hot idle and i think ive seen some say their at 26 psi hot idle. I wonder what hot idle psi would be for someone after a hard run on a hot day with oil temps in the 225-240 on 5w20. The hellcat pump seems to be a very promising prevention
I remember my hot idle oil pressure being around 27psi with PP 5w20 in the middle of summer. This was on the stock tune that he'd the idle stupid low at around 520rpm.

Then I got a custom tune and had the idle bumped up to 700rpm. So far this winter with RL 0w20 I haven't seen it below 40psi at hot idle. Pretty crazy the difference a couple hundred rpm makes.

On the 2014+ trucks they have the idle set at 650rpm...
 

Travis8352

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I remember my hot idle oil pressure being around 27psi with PP 5w20 in the middle of summer. This was on the stock tune that he'd the idle stupid low at around 520rpm.

Then I got a custom tune and had the idle bumped up to 700rpm. So far this winter with RL 0w20 I haven't seen it below 40psi at hot idle. Pretty crazy the difference a couple hundred rpm makes.

On the 2014+ trucks they have the idle set at 650rpm...
did you ever run a custom tune with 700 rpm idle with an oil other than redline?
 

Rod Knock

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I remember my hot idle oil pressure being around 27psi with PP 5w20 in the middle of summer. This was on the stock tune that he'd the idle stupid low at around 520rpm.

Then I got a custom tune and had the idle bumped up to 700rpm. So far this winter with RL 0w20 I haven't seen it below 40psi at hot idle. Pretty crazy the difference a couple hundred rpm makes.

On the 2014+ trucks they have the idle set at 650rpm...

What did you use to set the idle rpm at 700? I'd like to mess with that as well. Do you have the electronically controlled oil pump on your HEMI?
 

MontanaHandyman

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I remember my hot idle oil pressure being around 27psi with PP 5w20 in the middle of summer. This was on the stock tune that he'd the idle stupid low at around 520rpm.

Then I got a custom tune and had the idle bumped up to 700rpm. So far this winter with RL 0w20 I haven't seen it below 40psi at hot idle. Pretty crazy the difference a couple hundred rpm makes.

On the 2014+ trucks they have the idle set at 650rpm...
How did you get that custom tune?? I have a Banks tuner but when you up the idle it's only good while you're running. You hafta reset it every time you start the truck.
 

MontanaHandyman

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gonna have to find 1/2 to complete that, another great post thanks corey. One thing a guy with hemi tick can do is see if he has hemi tick at cold idle when the rpm's knocked up, if he doesn't, then this might be the solution we all were looking for? Get more oil at warm idle to levels more closer to cold idle. If you are knocking at cold idle, this may still be beneficial but these would be the most serious ticks imo, in other words you have have cold and warm idle tick, your f'd.
Anyone remember the tv commercials a few years back, advertising the cars with the hemi engines..."Sweeeet!" they'd say. If memory serves, in the final ad in the series the 2 goons are yelling Sweeeeet as they drive off a cliff. Subliminal message there???
 

Travis8352

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What did you use to set the idle rpm at 700? I'd like to mess with that as well. Do you have the electronically controlled oil pump on your HEMI?
are they electronic? I thought in the reiginited video he said they were all fixed displacement pumps
 

ramffml

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Guys, I honestly don't understand this fixation on flinging oil and low oil pressure at idle etc etc.

Seems really simple to me: is it physically possible to idle your hemi for 10 hours straight? Cold start, hop out, idle for 10 hours. Did you get hemi tick or destroy anything? If not, then "not enough oil flinging" or "low oil pressure" etc can't be the cause of the tick, because there is no way anything with that much heat and friction can last 10 hours without oil.

I'm sure there are guys out on the oil field etc who idle their trucks for hours and don't have issues. I really do think all of that is bogus IMHO.
 

Rod Knock

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are they electronic? I thought in the reiginited video he said they were all fixed displacement pumps
They're electronically controlled, not sure what model year they started using electronic controls. Otherwise you wouldn't have very similar oil presures above 1000 rpm running vastly different oil viscosities.
 

Hemi395

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What did you use to set the idle rpm at 700? I'd like to mess with that as well. Do you have the electronically controlled oil pump on your HEMI?
Originally I had a Diablo trinity and a Hemifever tune that I had him set the idle at 700. Then I got HP Tuners because you can tune your own truck with it if you want, you have full access to the PCM parameters.

I have since made my own "tune" if you will that has a 700rpm idle and I have the v6 efan set to come on at 210⁰ vs the factory 223⁰. I removed the Hemifever tune only because my truck is 9 years old now and I don't want to over stress anything.

Just have to be careful because again, you have full access to the PCM and can grenade the motor if you add a bunch of timing to it or reduce fuel too much.
 
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Hemi395

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How did you get that custom tune?? I have a Banks tuner but when you up the idle it's only good while you're running. You hafta reset it every time you start the truck.
For these trucks you need either a Diablo tuner or HPTuner MPVI2 to really "tune" it. The Pulsar piggybacks to the PCM and gives you some options but it doesn't actually change anything in the PCM.
 
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