Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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Rod Knock

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Was just trying to avoid the newer formula.......photo images could just be old & not updated
You might want to consider that the new formulation improves the old one. Let's not assume the worse. Sure, the VR30DDTT trashed that RedLine 0W-40 in that UOA, but then again, it didn't do any worse than I imagine Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 would have done. Of course, there is a considerable price difference and premium paid for RedLine over commodity brands. I think that RedLine is trying to address these issues with its reformulation. We can't make any judgments until we see the new lubes and VOAs/UOAs.
 

knightjp

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I strongly encourage using a 5W-30, or 0W-30 in winter. In either case, these multigrades start where your oil ended up for viscosity. They don't shear down or evaporate, as my recent UOA shows. They cost a bit less too, due to less additive needed to make such wide multigrades.
What about Summer weather? Over here our temperatures are like +50.C with humidity to match.
 

Rod Knock

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What about Summer weather? Over here our temperatures are like +50.C with humidity to match.

Use RedLine 5W-30 or an ACEA A3/B4 oil that starts with 5W all year. With that kind of heat, you can easily go up to 5W-40. Even in the southern US temperatures don't get that hot. Definitively keep that viscosity up. Ask someone in Australia what they use in their RAM.
 
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Rod Knock

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To illustrate that engines cannot be that sensitive to viscosity, I wanted to show you how thick various motor oils are in the cold. Unless you need protection below -22F, running RedLine 0W-30 in Winter is pointless. If you don't experience temperatures beyond -22F, then running RedLine 5W-30 year-round is fine.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20:
43F -> 382 cSt
20F -> 616 cSt
-22F -> 5126 cSt
-31F -> 9073 cSt - this one is beyond the capabilities of any 5W oil so it's probably solid at this point due to wax crystals

Mobil1 1 FS 0W-40: - coldflow winner among ACEA A3/B4 motor oils (NOACK 10%)
43F -> 530 cSt
20F -> 834 cSt
-22F -> 6010 cSt
-31F -> 10144 cSt

Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40: - about the same NOACK of 9% as RedLine 0W-40
43F -> 566 cSt
20F -> 897 cSt
-22F -> 6636 cSt
-31F -> 11282 cSt

RedLine 0W-40:
43F -> 636 cSt
20F -> 995 cSt
-22F -> 6908 cSt
-31F -> 11510 cSt

RedLine 0W-30:
43F -> 587 cSt
20F -> 959 cSt
-22F -> 8251 cSt
-31F -> 14676 cSt

RedLine 5W-30:
43F -> 614 cSt
20F -> 1006 cSt
-22F -> 8798 cSt
-31F -> 15719 cSt - this one is beyond the capabilities of any 5W oil so it's probably molases at this point

RedLine 5W-40:
43F -> 848 cSt
20F -> 1385 cSt
-22F -> 11727 cSt
-31F -> 20674 cSt - this one is beyond the capabilities of any 5W oil so it's probably molases at this point
 

huntergreen

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You might want to consider that the new formulation improves the old one. Let's not assume the worse. Sure, the VR30DDTT trashed that RedLine 0W-40 in that UOA, but then again, it didn't do any worse than I imagine Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 would have done. Of course, there is a considerable price difference and premium paid for RedLine over commodity brands. I think that RedLine is trying to address these issues with its reformulation. We can't make any judgments until we see the new lubes and VOAs/UOAs.
you might be right, but history shows us when conglomerate he companies put out products, the so called improvements are only good for the bottom line. Will be interesting to see if the hemi tick returns with the new formulation.
 

Rod Knock

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you might be right, but history shows us when conglomerate he companies but out products, the so called improvements are only good for the bottom line. Will be interesting to see if the hemi tick returns with the new forulation.
Outside of physical damage to the rollers or camshaft, the HEMI tick noise is one or more lifters that bleed out too fast. It's probably not even a defect, as much as it is a problem with fuel economy lubricants. Once you get a lubricant in there that provides better MOFT (HTHS 3.5 or higher) and decent viscosity the lifters won't bleed out that fast and the tick goes away. MOFT is very important. While something like Lubegard won't do anything when added to an ACEA A3/B4 oil, it will help a watery 5W-20. The lifter tolerances or out-of-tolerance situations are different from engine to engine. For @Burla RedLine 5W-20 was enough to make the tick go away. That's because it's thicker and provides way more MOFT than any ILSAC 5W-20. Others need thicker oil that provides more MOFT. If RedLine bites the dust, which I highly doubt will happen, then there are plenty of other good Euro 3 class ACEA A3/B4 and Euro 6 class C3 lubes that will work just fine. Some are even high-tech expensive to make formulations like Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 and ESP X3 0W-40. As long as they provide a good product, keep using it. RedLine 5W-30 ACEA A3/B4 is an old-school formulation that uses sacrificial organo-metallic additives. When you see depleted levels of Moly, ZDDP, Boron, those were burned up to protect your engine. The most high-tech over-the-counter affordable ACEA A3/B4 lube is Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40. That's because it's derived from their C3/Dexos 2 line of products and uses organic friction modifiers and Titanium instead of Moly for wear control under boundary lubrication situations. Think of the Titanium additive in Castrol 0W-40 like it's similar to Trimer Moly, though Castrol had to make their own version to keep the SAPS down. I think I went deep down this rabbit hole.

RedLine made a mistake with their Professional line of oils as it doesn't bode well for their image to dilute their brand like that. I believe that was dictated by their corporate overlords. I doubt it sells well and was intended as a cash grab.

Everything that RedLine has going for them is their PAO-Ester formula. If they cheapen that by adding Group III to it they're toast, so I doubt that will ever happen. Customers will drop them like a rock as there are plenty of ACEA A3/B4 and C3 lubes out there formulated with Group III+PAO+Esters and/or ANs. Nobody wants another one. I think their corporate masters understand the niche they inhabit so I doubt they will make any stupid moves going forward.
 

Travis8352

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Outside of physical damage to the rollers or camshaft, the HEMI tick noise is one or more lifters that bleed out too fast. It's probably not even a defect, as much as it is a problem with fuel economy lubricants. Once you get a lubricant in there that provides better MOFT (HTHS 3.5 or higher) and decent viscosity the lifters won't bleed out that fast and the tick goes away. MOFT is very important. While something like Lubegard won't do anything when added to an ACEA A3/B4 oil, it will help a watery 5W-20. The lifter tolerances or out-of-tolerance situations are different from engine to engine. For @Burla RedLine 5W-20 was enough to make the tick go away. That's because it's thicker and provides way more MOFT than any ILSAC 5W-20. Others need thicker oil that provides more MOFT. If RedLine bites the dust, which I highly doubt will happen, then there are plenty of other good Euro 3 class ACEA A3/B4 and Euro 6 class C3 lubes that will work just fine. Some are even high-tech expensive to make formulations like Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 and ESP X3 0W-40. As long as they provide a good product, keep using it. RedLine 5W-30 ACEA A3/B4 is an old-school formulation that uses sacrificial organo-metallic additives. When you see depleted levels of Moly, ZDDP, Boron, those were burned up to protect your engine. The most high-tech over-the-counter affordable ACEA A3/B4 lube is Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40. That's because it's derived from their C3/Dexos 2 line of products and uses organic friction modifiers and Titanium instead of Moly for wear control under boundary lubrication situations. Think of the Titanium additive in Castrol 0W-40 like it's similar to Trimer Moly, though Castrol had to make their own version to keep the SAPS down. I think I went deep down this rabbit hole.

RedLine made a mistake with their Professional line of oils as it doesn't bode well for their image to dilute their brand like that. I believe that was dictated by their corporate overlords. I doubt it sells well and was intended as a cash grab.

Everything that RedLine has going for them is their PAO-Ester formula. If they cheapen that by adding Group III to it they're toast, so I doubt that will ever happen. Customers will drop them like a rock as there are plenty of ACEA A3/B4 and C3 lubes out there formulated with Group III+PAO+Esters and/or ANs. Nobody wants another one. I think their corporate masters understand the niche they inhabit so I doubt they will make any stupid moves going forward.
I would doubt their long time chemist would go to group 3 at all with the hp line. If they were to go group 3 im sure it would have been done a long time ago
 

ramffml

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To illustrate that engines cannot be that sensitive to viscosity, I wanted to show you how thick various motor oils are in the cold. Unless you need protection below -22F, running RedLine 0W-30 in Winter is pointless. If you don't experience temperatures beyond -22F, then running RedLine 5W-30 year-round is fine.

That's not accurate. My truck made more knocking noise on a below freezing cold start (not tick, it's a knock, possibly piston slap) on RL 5w-30 last winter than it does this winter on RL 0w-30.
 

Rod Knock

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That's not accurate. My truck made more knocking noise on a below freezing cold start (not tick, it's a knock, possibly piston slap) on RL 5w-30 last winter than it does this winter on RL 0w-30.
You can check the lube physics yourself by using this calculator: https://fluidpower.pro/temperature-viscosity-chart/

What are some of the lowest temperatures you experience in winter?

I have experienced RedLine 5W-30 being pretty thick at 57F ambient (14C). It might have been colder in the oil pan. It freaked me out enough to go back to Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 for a while. But I want to give RedLine another try, so I have some on the way. Maybe it was a weird batch? Who knows. It was definitively thicker and less slick than the Mobil 1 FS 5W-40 in my wife Santa Fe. Both vehicles had around 3K~4K miles on the oil at that time. However, physics says that RedLine 5W-30 should flow reasonably well down to -22F (-30C). So, I don't know.

There isn't enough of a difference between RL 0W-30 and RL 5W-30 as far as cold flow is concerned, down to about -22F. The numbers definitively don't support it. Keep in mind that I plugged into the calculator publically available data from RedLine. So if there is something they're not letting the public know about, well, that's beyond me.

I doubt that RedLine would use SAE ratings for their lubes if they wouldn't/couldn't conform to them.

I participated a lot in this thread over the past year, and many assumptions were made, most of them wrong. Unwittingly, I fed some of them. While it is fun to postulate and satisfying when you get something right, or at least you think you do, it's also highly counterproductive. To get better, more accurate results to properly maintain our trucks, I believe that accuracy is important. So, if you want to try and diagnose the cold noise issue, I'm all for it. Last winter the idler pulley, or the alternator, made weird noises one time when I started the truck at 20F in January. I freaked out a bit thinking that it was something inside the engine due to the M1 0W-40. Now I laugh at myself. So, knowing at what temperatures you experienced those noises and if they were consistent is a good start.
 

ramffml

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You can check the lube physics yourself by using this calculator: https://fluidpower.pro/temperature-viscosity-chart/

What are some of the lowest temperatures you experience in winter?

I have experienced RedLine 5W-30 being pretty thick at 57F ambient (14C). It might have been colder in the oil pan. It freaked me out enough to go back to Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 for a while. But I want to give RedLine another try, so I have some on the way. Maybe it was a weird batch? Who knows. It was definitively thicker and less slick than the Mobil 1 FS 5W-40 in my wife Santa Fe. Both vehicles had around 3K~4K miles on the oil at that time. However, physics says that RedLine 5W-30 should flow reasonably well down to -22F (-30C). So, I don't know.

There isn't enough of a difference between RL 0W-30 and RL 5W-30 as far as cold flow is concerned, down to about -22F. The numbers definitively don't support it. Keep in mind that I plugged into the calculator publically available data from RedLine. So if there is something they're not letting the public know about, well, that's beyond me.

I doubt that RedLine would use SAE ratings for their lubes if they wouldn't/couldn't conform to them.

I participated a lot in this thread over the past year, and many assumptions were made, most of them wrong. Unwittingly, I fed some of them. While it is fun to postulate and satisfying when you get something right, or at least you think you do, it's also highly counterproductive. To get better, more accurate results to properly maintain our trucks, I believe that accuracy is important. So, if you want to try and diagnose the cold noise issue, I'm all for it. Last winter the idler pulley, or the alternator, made weird noises one time when I started the truck at 20F in January. I freaked out a bit thinking that it was something inside the engine due to the M1 0W-40. Now I laugh at myself. So, knowing at what temperatures you experienced those noises and if they were consistent is a good start.


That's why you can't reduce an oil down to one metric. In my truck, 0w-30 performs better in the winter. When I get my UOA back I will post it along with the other RL variants I've tried.
 

Rod Knock

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That's why you can't reduce an oil down to one metric.
I didn't say that. I asked a few simple questions, like the temperatures you experienced said knock, and what's the coldest it gets in your neck of the woods in winter. That is helpful information.

In my truck, 0w-30 performs better in the winter.
Again, how cold does it get in winter where you drive? What temperature range are you experiencing in winter.

When I get my UOA back I will post it along with the other RL variants I've tried.
What helpful information do you expect to extract from your UOA?
 

ramffml

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I didn't say that.

Yes you did, right here:

To illustrate that engines cannot be that sensitive to viscosity, I wanted to show you how thick various motor oils are in the cold. Unless you need protection below -22F, running RedLine 0W-30 in Winter is pointless. If you don't experience temperatures beyond -22F, then running RedLine 5W-30 year-round is fine.


Again, how cold does it get in winter where you drive? What temperature range are you experiencing in winter.

I personally see temps anywhere from -20 C to 10 C in the winter. Very seldom does it dip below that for me.
 

knightjp

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Use RedLine 5W-30 or an ACEA A3/B4 oil that starts with 5W all year. With that kind of heat, you can easily go up to 5W-40. Even in the southern US temperatures don't get that hot. Definitively keep that viscosity up. Ask someone in Australia what they use in their RAM.
@FalconHemi in another thread, you mentioned that Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 was the best oil for the HEMI. Do you really think that it is better than using Redline 5W30?
What if we did a mix? For instance.. in cold season, I use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and in the Summer, I run Redline 5W30..
My plan was to use Redline 5W30 exclusively all year round. If not available I would switch to Redline 5W40.
 

ramffml

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@FalconHemi in another thread, you mentioned that Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 was the best oil for the HEMI. Do you really think that it is better than using Redline 5W30?
What if we did a mix? For instance.. in cold season, I use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and in the Summer, I run Redline 5W30..
My plan was to use Redline 5W30 exclusively all year round. If not available I would switch to Redline 5W40.

I would stay with RL. It's been well documented on this forum, including tons of UOA reports. Your truck, your choice, but you can't go wrong with RL.
 

Travis8352

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@FalconHemi in another thread, you mentioned that Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 was the best oil for the HEMI. Do you really think that it is better than using Redline 5W30?
What if we did a mix? For instance.. in cold season, I use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and in the Summer, I run Redline 5W30..
My plan was to use Redline 5W30 exclusively all year round. If not available I would switch to Redline 5W40.
Given your location and the heat you see i would stick with redline 5w30
 

Rod Knock

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Yes you did, right here:

I don't understand why you always try to be at odds with me, I'm not your enemy, lol.

I calculated oil viscosities at freezing temperatures for the purpose of comparison. It's one metric that showcases the physical properties of the lubricant.

Many of the oils in that list can be run in the same engine. Imagine if the engine was so sensible to viscosity, when you switch from a 0W-20 to a 0W-40 the oil would not reach many critical parts, and the pump would struggle to pump it. But that's not the case, is it?

I personally see temps anywhere from -20 C to 10 C in the winter. Very seldom does it dip below that for me.
You are well within the 5W winter rating with some room to spare.

I would email Dave at Redline (PM me for the email if you need it) and ask him about the knocking noise in your HEMI during winter on 5W-30. It would be awesome if you would share his response. I'm curious what his take on it is, as he should know more about their own products than any of us here.

@FalconHemi in another thread, you mentioned that Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 was the best oil for the HEMI. Do you really think that it is better than using Redline 5W30?
Both are in the same ACEA A3/B4 class of motor oils. The main difference is that Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 carries actual OEM approvals, while RedLine 5W-30 does not. For instance, a Porsche A40 approval (which the M1 0W-40) is obtained by torture testing the oil in a twin-turbo Porsche engine around the Nurenburg Ring in Germany. After the test, the engine is torn down and measurements are taken, and the oil is analyzed for oxidation, viscosity retention, soot loading, etc. RedLine develops its oils with the help of Lubrizol. These days oil development for a corporation such as Lubrizol is more of a modular exercise where they pick the additive package based on the client's specifications. All RedLine has to do is ask them for OEM compatibility like BMW LL-01, MB229.5, and so on, and ACEA A3/B4 class. If you put a few of these OEM approvals together, they cross, so it's easy then to claim compatibility with even more OEM approvals. However, RedLine does not submit any of its oils for any OEM approvals. I don't even care about API licensing, as the API is irrelevant when it comes to ACEA A3/B4 and C3 lubes.

For the US and Canada, for anyone who doesn't want to pay for RedLine or can't easily get it, Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is a very good option. For your region, I wouldn't run anything that starts with 0W. I just looked up winter temperatures in Dubai, and 14 Celsius doesn't sound bad at all. You can run RedLine 5W-30 year-round. If you want two viscosities, then in the hottest months of the summer I would run RedLine 5W-40. If you want to run other brands, then at least 5W-40. Approved oils are blended thinner than RedLine because ... fuel economy. Mobil 1 FS 5W-40, or even Mobil 1 FS 5W-50 in the summer. Motul and Ravenol are also good options, but I wouldn't run V300 in a HEMI. They also make a V300 for race cars, but I wouldn't run that one either. Racing oil belongs in a track where it's drained after the race is over. In Australia, they run 10W-40 and 15W-40 in HEMIs. High heat + thin oil is a death sentence for a HEMI. Many manufacturers that have more common sense than Chrysler/FCA/RAM/Stelantis specify different motor oils for your region, usually higher viscosity, and explicitly prohibit the use of thin fuel economy oils.

[Edit]

@ramffml

RedLine 0W-30:
-20C -> 2974 cSt

RedLine 5W-30:
-20C -> 3146 cSt

As you can see, at -20C the viscosity difference (for sub-zero temperatures that is) is minute, not enough to cause any earth-shattering problems like knocking in an engine. I would be interested to read your rationale for the perceived piston slap/knock when running RL 5W-30.
 
Last edited:

knightjp

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@FalconHemi Thanks for the info. I have used Motul 300V in the HEMI and honestly, the engine sounded a bit noisier than usual, but there was no ticking or anything. At the time, I was trying to get Redline and it wasn't available. So I was wondering what should I get. @Burla suggested Motul because the formula seemed similar to Redline. If Redline wasn't going to be available by the time I needed to change the oil again, then I was going to give Amsoil 5W30 a try.

As stated before, I would prefer to stick with Redline since it has been well documented.
I know that people in Australia love their 0W-40 oils.. I believe Penrite and Caltex are the favored brands over there. I don't know about Ram owners and would love to know what they use since they are quite hard on their vehicles over there with regular outings into the Bush.
 

ramffml

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I don't understand why you always try to be at odds with me, I'm not your enemy, lol.

I calculated oil viscosities at freezing temperatures for the purpose of comparison. It's one metric that showcases the physical properties of the lubricant.

Many of the oils in that list can be run in the same engine. Imagine if the engine was so sensible to viscosity, when you switch from a 0W-20 to a 0W-40 the oil would not reach many critical parts, and the pump would struggle to pump it. But that's not the case, is it?


You are well within the 5W winter rating with some room to spare.

I would email Dave at Redline (PM me for the email if you need it) and ask him about the knocking noise in your HEMI during winter on 5W-30. It would be awesome if you would share his response. I'm curious what his take on it is, as he should know more about their own products than any of us here.


Both are in the same ACEA A3/B4 class of motor oils. The main difference is that Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 carries actual OEM approvals, while RedLine 5W-30 does not. For instance, a Porsche A40 approval (which the M1 0W-40) is obtained by torture testing the oil in a twin-turbo Porsche engine around the Nurenburg Ring in Germany. After the test, the engine is torn down and measurements are taken, and the oil is analyzed for oxidation, viscosity retention, soot loading, etc. RedLine develops its oils with the help of Lubrizol. These days oil development for a corporation such as Lubrizol is more of a modular exercise where they pick the additive package based on the client's specifications. All RedLine has to do is ask them for OEM compatibility like BMW LL-01, MB229.5, and so on, and ACEA A3/B4 class. If you put a few of these OEM approvals together, they cross, so it's easy then to claim compatibility with even more OEM approvals. However, RedLine does not submit any of its oils for any OEM approvals. I don't even care about API licensing, as the API is irrelevant when it comes to ACEA A3/B4 and C3 lubes.

For the US and Canada, for anyone who doesn't want to pay for RedLine or can't easily get it, Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is a very good option. For your region, I wouldn't run anything that starts with 0W. I just looked up winter temperatures in Dubai, and 14 Celsius doesn't sound bad at all. You can run RedLine 5W-30 year-round. If you want two viscosities, then in the hottest months of the summer I would run RedLine 5W-40. If you want to run other brands, then at least 5W-40. Approved oils are blended thinner than RedLine because ... fuel economy. Mobil 1 FS 5W-40, or even Mobil 1 FS 5W-50 in the summer. Motul and Ravenol are also good options, but I wouldn't run V300 in a HEMI. They also make a V300 for race cars, but I wouldn't run that one either. Racing oil belongs in a track where it's drained after the race is over. In Australia, they run 10W-40 and 15W-40 in HEMIs. High heat + thin oil is a death sentence for a HEMI. Many manufacturers that have more common sense than Chrysler/FCA/RAM/Stelantis specify different motor oils for your region, usually higher viscosity, and explicitly prohibit the use of thin fuel economy oils.

[Edit]

@ramffml

RedLine 0W-30:
-20C -> 2974 cSt

RedLine 5W-30:
-20C -> 3146 cSt

As you can see, at -20C the viscosity difference (for sub-zero temperatures that is) is minute, not enough to cause any earth-shattering problems like knocking in an engine. I would be interested to read your rationale for the perceived piston slap/knock when running RL 5W-30.

I'm not sure why you think I think you're my enemy, you are way too sensitive to be on this forum if you start thinking like that. You're posting stuff I don't agree with, I post a response.

I've also publicly (in this thread) disagreed several times with other posters on whether idling is bad and causes hemi tick, my opinion is that idling does not cause tick, nor is there some flaw in the design with poor oiling (lifter oiling is pressurized, it doesn't need splash oil); I believe it's dirty oil, and/or bad lifter manufacturing on specific lifters. I've also disagreed with the amount of tick cases, I think it's below 1% and others are saying 10%. Point is, none of this is personal, it's just my opinion.

Getting back to the discussion: you said there is no reason to run 0w-30 in winter instead of 5w-30, and you based that on viscosity. I'm saying that is not enough (single metric) to come to a conclusion on what oil is best for (even light) winter usage... as in my experience, there is a difference in engine noise between the two, even above freezing.

I don't know why/when/what is causing the difference, nor do I care to be honest. The difference is there, that's all that matters.
 

Rod Knock

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I'm not sure why you think I think you're my enemy, you are way too sensitive to be on this forum if you start thinking like that. You're posting stuff I don't agree with, I post a response.
I'm not trying to land on your bad side, lol. All good though.

I've also publicly (in this thread) disagreed several times with other posters on whether idling is bad and causes hemi tick, my opinion is that idling does not cause tick, nor is there some flaw in the design with poor oiling (lifter oiling is pressurized, it doesn't need splash oil); I believe it's dirty oil, and/or bad lifter manufacturing on specific lifters. I've also disagreed with the amount of tick cases, I think it's below 1% and others are saying 10%. Point is, none of this is personal, it's just my opinion.
I agree with most of this stuff, I tend to think the same way. Sadly, time doesn't allow me to go into detail but thank God I'm not the only one who thinks that the HEMI is not a lawnmower engine, lol.

Getting back to the discussion: you said there is no reason to run 0w-30 in winter instead of 5w-30, and you based that on viscosity. I'm saying that is not enough (single metric) to come to a conclusion on what oil is best for (even light) winter usage... as in my experience, there is a difference in engine noise between the two, even above freezing.
There is a difference in the formulation as 0W-30 is classified as ACEA A5/B5 and 5W-30 is classified as ACEA A3/B4, which suggests that the latter provides better MOFT, so it's thicker, and the HTFS (not HTHS) is about 2.75 vs. 2.0 in the 0W-30. It is thicker oil by any metric for sure. *However*, the metrics that count for cold flow are viscosity poise and viscosity, and there isn't that much of a difference there. Just going by the numbers that I can see, not that I can't, as I'm sure there are other parameters I don't have access to.

I don't know why/when/what is causing the difference, nor do I care to be honest. The difference is there, that's all that matters.
And that's exactly why I suggested you contact Dave at RedLine and ask him. I would ask him about this issue, but I haven't experienced it, so it would be kind of weird to say that "I'm asking for a friend."
 

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