Massive electrical problem and unresponsive dealer. Any ideas? 2017 Ram 1500.

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colesi

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A little background information; I own a 2017 Ram 1500 CC 2WD 5.7 with approximately 67,000 miles. I have owned this truck for three years and purchased it as a CPO with 22,000 miles and prior to this I have never had an electrical issue. It has had a UAS swap for the last two and a half years and has been problem free.

I currently have an electrical issue with my truck that the dealer cannot seem to figure out. On December 18th I drove my truck about 50 miles in the rain from my house in Metro Atlanta, arrived at the destination, shut the truck off and stepped away for about 10 minutes. Came back to the truck and started it up to leave and it ran for about two seconds and then shut off like you hit the key. The cluster proceeded to read out: right front turn signal out, service power steering, service airbag system, service electronic braking system, right headlight out and has warning lights for traction control, anti-theft light flashing, check engine, airbag, etc. The back windows don't roll up, the lights will randomly turn on (besides the right headlight), and it does not crank or spin over. I can roll up the front windows, the cluster turns on, I can use the radio (which is asking for the anti-theft code), change the blower speed, and use some other interior functions. This resulted in the truck having to be towed to a dealer in Cartersville, GA and it has only become a bigger nightmare since.

The dealer initially thought the BCM was the issue after some diagnostics were run and they supposedly traced it back to the BCM (1/12/22). They ordered a BCM that was supposedly a reman from a dealer in Arizona, and installed it with no luck even after they told me they opened a STAR case in an attempt to program it (1/22/22). They claimed this was because it was bad, and honestly with the current parts situation a bad reman wasn't totally abnormal in my mind. They supposedly "had Chrysler warranty" this one, and the second one didn't work either (2/2/22). I was reassured the BCM was 100% the issue, so they swapped this for a brand new one that was also handled by "warranty". The new one was installed on 2/12/22 and on 2/14/22 I received a text that the BCM was showing more codes than either the original or the two remans, included in this text were pictures of the codes and the topology of the CAN system which I have attached. These codes were present in the old BCM when I pulled the logs off it on 12/25/21 using AlfaOBD (including B162E and B2103), and the new one has not changed how the truck behaves.

At this point I called Ram Cares (2/15/22) as I had been without the truck for two months and I would not hear from the dealer without initiating contact constantly. This is when I was informed the dealer had not contacted STAR for the first BCM as I was led to believe, but the response from Ram Cares was to tell the dealer to contact STAR. I explained that they needed to contact the dealer as I would rarely hear back unless I called the service advisor and texted him, and they told me they would look into it. During this time I received no updates from the dealer, so I called them on 2/21/22 and was told the advisor had gone home for the day. He texted me that evening he would call me as soon as he can, but that call never came. I texted the advisor again on 2/24/22 asking what they had found, and said they had found cut wires by the BCM (keep in mind it was running fine 10 minutes prior and it has not been tampered with) and asked me what they went to. I explained I didn't know so he agreed to send me a picture after lunch. I never received another text even after asking the same question that evening. I had also not heard back from Ram Cares, so I contacted them again on 2/22/22 and I am currently in contact with Level 2 support. The only wire loose to my knowledge is the yellow one you do not use when installing the dealer addon backup cam as this truck did not have it from factory, it is ziptied to the harness.

Since I have written an entire thesis, I'll keep this short. I am hoping someone has seen this issue or experienced it so I can at least get a reference or a possible solution. The dealer has not provided a single solution and will not keep in contact with me. They acted as if the new BCM had provided more codes when in fact it changed nothing, and I have not gotten a straight answer outside "it doesn't work" in two months.

Errors shown on cluster
 

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BossHogg

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Trying to troubleshoot this issue remotely is a nightmare but here is my 2 cents.

It seems the dealer was too quick to fire the parts cannon. All the issues did make it look like the BCM had a catastrophic failure but that is very unlikely and highly unusual. The replacement BCM didn't change the results so they should have returned to the original BCM and started looking for grounding and power supply issues. The high count of failures can also be from low voltage, modules, and circuits within models will start failing when voltage levels start falling below 9.6 volts.

I would have started by referencing the schematic looking for grounding points shared by modules. Then moved on to power feeds. Historically, ground points are the first to fail from corrosion, given that the failure first occurred when driving in rain tells me that it is likely the issue based on what I've gathered from what you have shared.
 
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Daw14

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They load tested the battery correct ? I agree with mr Hogg. Sounds like a battery to me , as multiple codes out of nowhere is a very common symptom. I relieve your upset however please use some paragraphs to make things a little easier to read for us with ADD and other comprehensive issues. Hopefully RamCares can be a Help.
 

Mister Luck

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Back up cam yellow wire is the fourth wire ?

Is this backup cam somehow installed using Alfa OBD and using snow plow settings?

Is the positive battery terminal on the post fuse block
160 and 125 amp fuses intact and not compromised in someway partiality blown ?

only other problem I can think of is TIPM corrosion.
 

shrubs

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Start simple. Be patient. Occam's razor. See posts before mine.
Electrical issues are tough unless a tech is milking for parts and labor for the boss.
There are shops that specialize in electrical problems. A possibility is some general repair techs are flat out groping for solutions.
 

Mister Luck

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A little background information; I own a 2017 Ram 1500 CC 2WD 5.7 with approximately 67,000 miles. I have owned this truck for three years and purchased it as a CPO with 22,000 miles and prior to this I have never had an electrical issue. It has had a UAS swap for the last two and a half years and has been problem free.

I currently have an electrical issue with my truck that the dealer cannot seem to figure out. On December 18th I drove my truck about 50 miles in the rain from my house in Metro Atlanta, arrived at the destination, shut the truck off and stepped away for about 10 minutes. Came back to the truck and started it up to leave and it ran for about two seconds and then shut off like you hit the key. The cluster proceeded to read out: right front turn signal out, service power steering, service airbag system, service electronic braking system, right headlight out and has warning lights for traction control, anti-theft light flashing, check engine, airbag, etc. The back windows don't roll up, the lights will randomly turn on (besides the right headlight), and it does not crank or spin over. I can roll up the front windows, the cluster turns on, I can use the radio (which is asking for the anti-theft code), change the blower speed, and use some other interior functions. This resulted in the truck having to be towed to a dealer in Cartersville, GA and it has only become a bigger nightmare since.

The dealer initially thought the BCM was the issue after some diagnostics were run and they supposedly traced it back to the BCM (1/12/22). They ordered a BCM that was supposedly a reman from a dealer in Arizona, and installed it with no luck even after they told me they opened a STAR case in an attempt to program it (1/22/22). They claimed this was because it was bad, and honestly with the current parts situation a bad reman wasn't totally abnormal in my mind. They supposedly "had Chrysler warranty" this one, and the second one didn't work either (2/2/22). I was reassured the BCM was 100% the issue, so they swapped this for a brand new one that was also handled by "warranty". The new one was installed on 2/12/22 and on 2/14/22 I received a text that the BCM was showing more codes than either the original or the two remans, included in this text were pictures of the codes and the topology of the CAN system which I have attached. These codes were present in the old BCM when I pulled the logs off it on 12/25/21 using AlfaOBD (including B162E and B2103), and the new one has not changed how the truck behaves. At this point I called Ram Cares (2/15/22) as I had been without the truck for two months and I would not hear from the dealer without initiating contact constantly. This is when I was informed the dealer had not contacted STAR for the first BCM as I was led to believe, but the response from Ram Cares was to tell the dealer to contact STAR. I explained that they needed to contact the dealer as I would rarely hear back unless I called the service advisor and texted him, and they told me they would look into it. During this time I received no updates from the dealer, so I called them on 2/21/22 and was told the advisor had gone home for the day. He texted me that evening he would call me as soon as he can, but that call never came. I texted the advisor again on 2/24/22 asking what they had found, and said they had found cut wires by the BCM (keep in mind it was running fine 10 minutes prior and it has not been tampered with) and asked me what they went to. I explained I didn't know so he agreed to send me a picture after lunch. I never received another text even after asking the same question that evening. I had also not heard back from Ram Cares, so I contacted them again on 2/22/22 and I am currently in contact with Level 2 support. The only wire loose to my knowledge is the yellow one you do not use when installing the dealer addon backup cam as this truck did not have it from factory, it is ziptied to the harness.

Since I have written an entire thesis, I'll keep this short. I am hoping someone has seen this issue or experienced it so I can at least get a reference or a possible solution. The dealer has not provided a single solution and will not keep in contact with me. They acted as if the new BCM had provided more codes when in fact it changed nothing, and I have not gotten a straight answer outside "it doesn't work" in two months.

Errors shown on cluster
If the dealer is aware you are using Alfa OBD they may blame you for your truck’s electrical issues
Since the settings you’ve posted show snow plow options in the “ON” orientation and you more than likely are not using your 1500 as a snow plow.

The other non issue you mention is the UAS but you never can tell if your replacement BCM wasn’t swapped in correctly and your UAS now has issues.
 
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colesi

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If the dealer is aware you are using Alfa OBD they may blame you for your truck’s electrical issues
Since the settings you’ve posted show snow plow options in the “ON” orientation and you more than likely are not using your 1500 as a snow plow.

The other non issue you mention is the UAS but you never can tell if your replacement BCM wasn’t swapped in correctly and your UAS now has issues.
As far as I know they have no idea. The whole snow plow thing is bizarre as I never touched that, nothing like plowing with your 2WD truck in a place that doesn't get snow!
 
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colesi

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They load tested the battery correct ? I agree with mr Hogg. Sounds like a battery to me , as multiple codes out of nowhere is a very common symptom. I relieve your upset however please use some paragraphs to make things a little easier to read for us with ADD and other comprehensive issues. Hopefully RamCares can be a Help.
Noted on the paragraph, I was a bit past my bedtime haha.
 

audiophile

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I had similar issues with my wife's 2003 Grand Caravan. Took it to a specialist that dealt with electrical (as stated above) and after a new PCM, multiple sensors, battery and hours of troubleshooting, the end result was power steering fluid leaking on one of the main cannon plugs and the fluid had eaten away insulation on the wires and they were grounding each other out.
 

PoMansRam

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Oh man.. Sorry about your issues.

I believe the biggest problem is your average dealer service department is completely ill-equipped to handle problems that aren't obvious. I agree with the above advice. The first thing I would have done is check for system voltage across the battery at idle. Next I would have gone for powers and grounds associated with the effected circuits. Especially the grounds. You wouldn't think a 2017 would have corrosion issues, but there could be a chaffed, chewed or burned wire somewhere. If you have aftermarket electronics cobbled in somewhere, I would get it out of there for now if you can.

I say it often, but too bad you're not in closer proximity to Eric O from South Main Auto in Avoca NY. He sorts this type of issue daily it seems. Dealers and general shops send him this type of work.
 

chri5k

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Yep, an auto technician that does actual diagnosis is a rare thing indeed. My daughters started having intermittent issues recognizing the FOB. The battery terminals were nasty so I cleaned them and it was OK for a day or two and the left her stranded in the Home Depot parking lot. The service writer immediately told us is was the BCM, $600 please. The dealer tech spent a whole morning going over the wiring, BCM/ RF Hub. He found a chafed wire. Fixed that and all has been well for a year. Cost $450 in labor and supplies but it was fixed right. The tech made more that a BCM swap and we paid less than a BCM swap.
 

Jeepwalker

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I was going to say, mine acted the same way when the battery suddenly died. I had been driving the truck running errands at a handfull of stores all afternoon to pick up supplies. I drove and parked at a place we have to do some light work. When I went to leave a couple hours later, no start ..and almost all the dash lights suddenly came on! Vehicle was 'dead'. It was alarming. I'm like, "What JUST happened!? I was getting bad PCM warnings via the cluster display. Plus my key wouldn't come out (mine's got an actual key). I went inside and grabbed a multi-meter and a couple hand tools. The battery voltage tested good, and wiggling the connections didn't help (they were clean too). Fuses were good, swapped relays to no avail.

It was a real head-scratcher. Again, the failure warnings I was getting were 'bad bcm' so I was becoming bummed out. I'd never seen a vehicle act like that when the battery suddenly died. The truck was sending a clear message the BCM had failed. Next day I took over a battery load tester I have (Harbor Freight) and the battery failed the test specatcularly. Ran to get a new battery and, to my relief, she started right off. Man did that bring a smile to my face!!

Might not be your condition, but I can see how a mechanic who's become accustomed to believing a scan tool would go down the BCM route. My theory is the truck goes to start, then suddenly dies of electrical current and the BCM is either 'tricked' or goes to a default setting like they do. One thing I've learned from using a scan tool a lot is, it's just a 'guide'. Quite often unrelated things can spoof far-out codes that aren't related and can lead a guy down a dead-end path.

The forum member above who said "start with the simple things" gave really good advice. 85% of the time that's where the problems seem to lie. Could also be 'grounds' where the cable goes into the battery clamp, corroded battery cables (internally). Things like that should be checked. Clean off your body/engine/frame grounds too. Or a power feed line or gnd to the BCM. If I was doing it, I would tie/tape the battery cables together for a solid 10-20 min with tape to let the BCM drain down ..before hooking up a good battery. Good luck. I sure hope it's something easy like that....
 
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Mister Luck

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As far as I know they have no idea. The whole snow plow thing is bizarre as I never touched that, nothing like plowing with your 2WD truck in a place that doesn't get snow!
Then that is part of the problem obviously your CAN bus setting are incorrect but if you didn’t change them someone must have to adapt a part or patch.

If your reverse camera has 4 wires one is CAN bus.

You have obvious CAN bus abnormalities but I guess you don’t really understand the system.

I doubt anymore explanation is necessary.
 

DaveSharp

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Some guy wrote Occam's razor and he is dead on. Check the battery, load test and then short test the cells with an electronic tester. Get a schematic and see what all those codes have in common, ground, bus, or power feed. If they replaced the BCM and didn't fix it then start right at the beginning like it's never been touched. Are there any accessories that have been added that could influence all those circuits? One of the first things I'd check is a shared ground. Very common problem especially when feeding a logic module/computer, controller, etc.
 

njjeff201

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Gotta cover simple/basics first. They always blame ‘the computer.’ Mazdas were no fun; every connector the wires changed color. Ford followed same colors; ie, all dash lites were blue/red stripe. Only Dodge I worked on was Mom’s ‘71 Duster. Todays units are complicated with processors all over. I’d remove any non factory add ons. Start from battery, clean terminals perform a cell test & load test then get involved. Weren’t there issues with power distribution box at firewall once? Corrosion on connectors??? (Sorry I don’t know all the Dodge acronyms)
 

Robert Mc

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I would skip trying to contact the Service Advisor at this point. He's dodging your calls and won't call back. I'd move on to the Service Manager or the GM of the dealership. If they can't fix it then tell them to buy the truck back from you at the highest Kelly Blue Book value or you'll contact an attorney.

If you want to fix the truck then send a tow truck to the dealership, pick it up, and take it to someone who knows what they're doing.The people at that dealership obviously don't know how to fix it and their customer service skills suck.

I had an issue with my transmission downshifting hard. The first dealership just wanted to flash the computer each time and wouldn't listen to me. I told them it was the valve body going bad because I researched the issue here on this forum and the rest of the web. I picked it up from the first dealer and refused to pay for anything they had done because nothing they did worked. Took it to a different dealer and the service tech, not the advisor but the tech, rode with me for about 15 minutes and I duplicated the issue in every conceivable manner. Downshifted with he exhaust brake on and off, with he tow haul mode on and off, with little to no braking, hard braking, and etc. We got back and the service tech walked in to the service advisor's office and told him to order me a new valve body because the one in my truck was bad. They fixed the truck right and I haven't had an issue since.

The point I'm making is not all dealerships are created equal. Some know what they're doing and some don't. The dealership where your truck is at obviously doesn't know what they're doing.
 

mrclean426

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If new bcm showed same codes, not likely bcm. Dealer service manuals with a quality diagnostic tech will walk tech through checks that involve verifying the wire continuity in each pin of bcm connector and all voltages and signals correct. it sounds to me like you have a parts guesser working on your rig and your problem requires an actual diagnosis. It sucks to hear and i have been so frustrated with mechs these days i just do all my own work now. Best advice find a mech that can answer your questions specifically and not bs. a good diagnostic tech can find the problem. it is possibly something screwy in the harness or a connector and that cant be guessed it has to be diagnosed and verified.
 

farout75

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I have a 2017 RAM 1500 5.7 In Dec 2020 our druck would just go dead. We call AAA sever al times and a quick charge to the battery would get it going. We went to three Auto parts stores and they said our batter checked out good. This was less than a block away from where we got stuck. We took it to the dealer which had it a week and could not get the problem to show up. After about five times the dealer said it was the starter. Well it was not the starter! After enough times the dealer said it had to be the battery. We replaced it with a WalMart battery (they have the best warranty). After that we have had no more problems. When Walmart checked our battery they too said it was a good battery, just like the parts people and the dealer. I am still wondering how a "good) battery could have stranded up so many times. But thank the LORD the new battery solved the problem.

Could this possibly be your issues as well?
 

Roncad

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I spent 38 years as a wholesale car dealer and purchased a dozen or so vehicles thru the years with most or all of their warning lights on. I took each vehicle to my independent auto/marine electrical expert who found all of them. Most of them were major shorts to a supply power line that had come loose and had rubbed against something on the body/frame/etc until they shorted out, but all vehicles still ran and drove. A few were rodent chewed. Several others were aftermarket stereos/amps/alarms/etc that were plugged into incorrect or just plain stupid sources of power. The dumbest one of all was a repo I bought that the moron had wired his "under vehicle lights" to the main feed for the ABS/brake/rear lights on the frame rail! You need to find someone who has the knowledge to REPAIR not just to REPLACE. My electrical guy charged me by the hour to search and find.......the vehicles ran from a low time of 15 minutes to a high of 4 hours, but he found and fixed them! Find someone that knows how to use a simple multimeter or a test light. Good luck
 
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