Synthetic Oil

Man, Stellantis are really hor'y for cash... Every other company dumps Russia like a plague. Sad to see they still support Russia like that

Stefan N said:

Man, Stellantis are really hor'y for cash... Every other company dumps Russia like a plague. Sad to see they still support Russia like that

Stellantis, for now, keeps Russia van plant operating after rival Renault bows to pressure over Ukraine

The automaker's factory in Kaluga is running at lower output and could have to shut down because of supply and logistics issues, Stellantis said.

www.autonews.com

Click to expand...

I come here not to see or hear about politics. This is not appropriate for this forum.

Did my annual oil change on my truck today...2014 miles this past year. Truck has 159,784 miles on it now. It's amazing to me how strong, smooth and quiet that this Hemi is. Redline 5w30, Royal Purple 20-820 and 10 oz. Lubegard Bio-Tech.

Stefan N said:

Man, Stellantis are really hor'y for cash... Every other company dumps Russia like a plague. Sad to see they still support Russia like that

Stellantis, for now, keeps Russia van plant operating after rival Renault bows to pressure over Ukraine

The automaker's factory in Kaluga is running at lower output and could have to shut down because of supply and logistics issues, Stellantis said.

www.autonews.com

Click to expand...

I'm surprised the price of engine oil hasnt gone up as much as other stuff. Gas has doubled in a year even before this, and yet the price of engine oil hasnt increased close to that much. I'm sure the price of engine oil will be going up as well. The only people who are hurt with sanctions are the citizens of both countries, I'm not sold that they are the answer to this, I do wish it was but they don't seam to accomplish anything but raising prices. Russia benefits greatly from crude price doubling but that gallon of m1 is gonna cost you some more duckets. It wouldn't be a bad idea to stock up on engine oil, I know redline went up 2 bucks a qrt in this same year from their website, hasn't creeped into marketplace just yet, but my guess it wont be avoidable.

Ludville1 said:

Did my annual oil change on my truck today...2014 miles this past year. Truck has 159,784 miles on it now. It's amazing to me how strong, smooth and quiet that this Hemi is. Redline 5w30, Royal Purple 20-820 and 10 oz. LubeGuard Bio-Tech.

Click to expand...

How long have you been on the top voodoo?

I bought the truck used in 2018, and the guy pretty much had it set up as it sits now. He was a member on this forum also, and recommended the forum and Redline. He used Redline, first 5w20, then 5w30. I have put about 10,000 miles on it so far. I love this truck!

Ludville1 said:

I bought the truck used in 2018, and the guy pretty much had it set up as it sits now. He was a member on this forum also, and recommended the forum and Redline. He used Redline, first 5w20, then 5w30. I have put about 10,000 miles on it so far. I love this truck!

Click to expand...

I like that, lol. That is cool spreading the knowledge.

Burla said:

I'm surprised the price of engine oil hasnt gone up as much as other stuff. Gas has doubled in a year even before this, and yet the price of engine oil hasnt increased close to that much. I'm sure the price of engine oil will be going up as well. The only people who are hurt with sanctions are the citizens of both countries, I'm not sold that they are the answer to this, I do wish it was but they don't seam to accomplish anything but raising prices. Russia benefits greatly from crude price doubling but that gallon of m1 is gonna cost you some more duckets. It wouldn't be a bad idea to stock up on engine oil, I know redline went up 2 bucks a qrt in this same year from their website, hasn't creeped into marketplace just yet, but my guess it wont be avoidable.

Click to expand...

SSSHHHH!!!!

Do you guys recommend using the Lubegard additive with Redline 5W-30? Mine is only up to 3000kM now, and I put a good 5W-30 semi-syn in it at 1700kM as the factory fill oil stunk really bad. Id the Lubegard something you do after a few cycles or Redline or do you run with it from the first time you swap over to Redline?

My opinion, I don't add lubegard to redline. I'm not versed up enough on the exact ester used in both products, and find that there probably wouldnt be any benefit anyhow, so low risk but why take on any risk. I guess if I had hemi tick on redline, I might try it, I kinda wish I tried in on my 10w30 run. redline is just stacked with additives, I call that good.

All good. I'm finding that with the current Penrite Vantage 5W-30 semi-synthetic that every 5th or 6th morning when started from cold it ticks with lifter noise for a second or maybe two until oil pressure builds. Doesn't happen all the time. I chose this one as it is MS-6395 compliant and could find no other local oils that weren't full synthetic that were claimed as MS-6395. Not that MS-6395 matters that much I guess other than if anything warranty wise comes up, and the local dealer told me they would put Castrol 0W-20 full synthetic in it if I took it in, it is also listed as MS-6395 compliant. I thought that would not be a good idea pn an engine so new.



I have the Redline here ready to go at the appropriate time, just need some RP filters as I still cannot get any.

HK1837 said:

Not that MS-6395 matters that much I guess other than if anything warranty wise comes up

Click to expand...

FCA, after the PSA merger, clarified the recommended lubricant language. It's either a lubricant that meets MS-6395 and recommended viscosity (it can even be something like AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-20 or 5W-20), or a lubricant that meets the recommended viscosity and has the API Starburst on the label. I know because I just got a 2022 Dodge Durango and that's what my owner's manual recommended. After debating for a little bit, and going back and forth between Red Line, AMSOIL, and Mobil 1, I decided on Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20. It is readily available, it's made from PAO and ANs (so groups IV and V synthetics), and it's just really good oil all around for an MPI engine. I wouldn't use it in a GDI engine like a Hyundai though. Castrol is a much better fit for that. Red Line, I'm sorry to say this, is made using an outdated SL-era formulation. The reason why RedLine has to use so much of everything (ZDDP, Moly) is to compensate for the use of POE. That's because POE competes for surface with the additive package (also called Performance Improvers). And when you have ~50 microns of surface to cover in boundary lubrication situations, where the oil film is too thin to protect, you need all the additives you can get.

The Castrol EDGE 0W-20 C5 is good stuff, awesome for fuel-efficient Diesel engines and dirty Hyundai GDI engines. It's sold in the US as Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 0W-20 - same oil. Will also work great in a HEMI.

HK1837 said:

I have the Redline here ready to go at the appropriate time, just need some RP filters as I still cannot get any.

Click to expand...

Can you get FRAM Ultra filters? The FRAM XG2 is actually a better filter than the RP 20-820. I got plenty of RP 20-820 filters, and I don't like them. The truck is with my dad now, but I still maintain it. I use FRAM Titanium FS2 filters on it, a fancier version of the XG2 sold only at Advance Auto Parts stores.

HK1837 said:

Do you guys recommend using the Lubegard additive with Redline 5W-30?

Click to expand...

No, it won't help you with anything and might actually hinder the performance of Red Line. You have to understand that Red Line is made with Polyol Ester, so the balance of the additive package is crucial for the oil to perform at its best. Don't mess with it.

Thank you. I don't doubt the Castrol oil, I just don't want to use full synthetic on a new engine, hence why I used the semi-syn Penrite as the closest thing I could find to Mopar oil in Australia. Plus 20W is too thin for Australia especially if towing. Winter where I live is rarely below 18degC (65F) during the day. Summer can hit 45degC (113F). You really want a 40W oil in those conditions, but a good 30W synthetic is a decent compromise. Castrol Edge actually comes in both 0W-30 and 5W-30 variants.

20-820 won't fit the RHD 1500 Classic, no room. Has to be the 10-48 and even that is tight. I am planning for a filter relocation using a Transadapt kit so it doesn't make a huge mess every oil filter change, then I can just use the good old Ford Z9 filter and I can buy those in most brands easily. There is an Australian distributor of Royal Purple filters but they are out of stock or 10-48, and even Summit won't ship them to me fro some trade based reason. I think I can get Fram through Summit though. I stuck one of these on it for now:

HK1837 said:

I don't doubt the Castrol oil, I just don't want to use full synthetic on a new engine, hence why I used the semi-syn Penrite as the closest thing I could find to Mopar oil in Australia.

Click to expand...

Engines are broken in at the factory after assembly is completed. Manufacturers keep the process secret, but it goes something along the lines of revving the engine up high for a few minutes, then they dump the break-in oil in fill it up with the factory fill. You will do more good to run the factory fill for a couple of thousand miles along with mixed driving at mixed RPMs than trying to figure out what oil to use for "breaking" because...



As you can see the oil you choose meets all the latest specifications, including ILSAC GF-6A. By meeting ILSAC GF-6A your oil also meets the fuel efficiency requirements of ILSAC GF-6A, which means that in turn, it will have the same friction reducing properties as any other "full synthetic" oil that meets the same specs. In other words, your rings will not "seat" any better or worse than if you used your full synthetic of choice.

The only difference between "semi-synthetic" and "full synthetic" meeting the same specs is how long you can run it in your engine, and how fast will it degrade at high temperatures. Full synthetic is supposed to last longer and break down and oxidize slower than semi-synthetic. I hope this helps.

HK1837 said:

Do you guys recommend using the Lubegard additive with Redline 5W-30? Mine is only up to 3000kM now, and I put a good 5W-30 semi-syn in it at 1700kM as the factory fill oil stunk really bad. Id the Lubegard something you do after a few cycles or Redline or do you run with it from the first time you swap over to Redline?

Click to expand...

More than likely overkill using the Lubegard with Redline. I had 2 10 oz. bottles of Lubegard and put in a bottle last year, and one in this year. Don't plan on using it with Redline next time.

FalconHemi said:

Engines are broken in at the factory after assembly is completed. Manufacturers keep the process secret, but it goes something along the lines of revving the engine up high for a few minutes, then they dump the break-in oil in fill it up with the factory fill. You will do more good to run the factory fill for a couple of thousand miles along with mixed driving at mixed RPMs than trying to figure out what oil to use for "breaking" because...

View attachment 489926

As you can see the oil you choose meets all the latest specifications, including ILSAC GF-6A. By meeting ILSAC GF-6A your oil also meets the fuel efficiency requirements of ILSAC GF-6A, which means that in turn, it will have the same friction reducing properties as any other "full synthetic" oil that meets the same specs. In other words, your rings will not "seat" any better or worse than if you used your full synthetic of choice.

The only difference between "semi-synthetic" and "full synthetic" meeting the same specs is how long you can run it in your engine, and how fast will it degrade at high temperatures. Full synthetic is supposed to last longer and break down and oxidize slower than semi-synthetic. I hope this helps.

Click to expand...

I get all that, and I do know how engines are broken in once assembled. GM used to actually run them on gas (as in gas not petrol) for first start up, not sure if the Hemi is the same. However this oil was not good. I have a feeling my Ram was one of the 2021 model year vehicles that were semi completed prior to the big semi-conductor shortage. It was probably parked and started and stopped a number of times. It went back for final assembly, on and off transport to get on a boat for a few months to Australia. Then off the boat to the conversion premises which probably meant start and stop a few more times. Driven around there. Then on transport to the dealer. It had probably been started and stopped up to 25 times and had hardly any hours on it. I reckon the oil was close to 9 months old by that stage when I took delivery mid January this year. It stunk really bad, very strong fuel and oxidisation smells. So I had no real choice. My full synthetic of choice is Redline and although I can't find where I read it, Redline state not to use it on a new engine. I think it was 6000 miles. The oil I got was the only oil I could buy locally that could do the interim job.

HK1837 said:

I have a feeling my Ram was one of the 2021 model year vehicles that were semi completed prior to the big semi-conductor shortage. It was probably parked and started and stopped a number of times. It went back for final assembly, on and off transport to get on a boat for a few months to Australia.

Click to expand...

I seriously hope you don't believe the semiconductor bologna that the media spread around. It was, however, an excellent excuse for car manufacturers to jack up prices and bolster profits. A friend of mine traded in his fully loaded 2018 Chevy Silverado 1500 for a brand new one, also fully loaded... but without heated and cooled seats, no climate control, and other goodies. He barely has cruise control. The only "blessing" that came out of it is that he doesn't have AFM. The dealer told him it was due to the "chip shortage." I explained that I just got a Durango GT Plus with all the gizmos and amenities. Amazing how they had chips to build mine.

HK1837 said:

It stunk really bad, very strong fuel and oxidisation smells.

Click to expand...

My friend, what you are smelling is how US gasoline makes the engine oil smell. The only lubricants I found to resist better that kind of contamination are full-SAPS Euro oils and Red Line because it uses a similar additive package. Your average ILSAC GF6 motor oil will smell exceedingly bad after 4~5K miles driven on US gasoline. I don't know what they put in it, but it's garbage. It's also one of the reasons why German car manufacturers specified full-SAPS motor oils for the US market for the longest time, that's why you can still find API SN full-SAPS oils like Mobil 1 FS 0W-40/5W-40, Castrol, Pennzoil and Quaker State, and Valvoline 5W-40 at Walmart and other stores.

According to EPA mandates, we're supposed to have ultra-low sulfur gasoline at least since 2017. Do all refiners respect the mandate? I have no clue. Is our winter gasoline junk? Absolutely, and worse, where I live, I think we get like 3~4 months out of the year the good summer gasoline... in a hot climate nonetheless.

FYI there is no break in oil nor dump and fill for every engine. The audited engines (very small percentage) get run, dyno'd, oil sampled, etc., randomly off of the build line. The only engines that got "dumped and filled" were the Viper engines as every 1 was cold tested, dyno'd, oil replaced with new and screened, and every oil filter was cut open for analysis. Regardless, even with the Viper, there was no specific break in oil. It was Mobil 1 OW40 for the GEN IV then PUP 0W40 for the GEN V.

quickster2 said:

There is no break in oil nor dump and fill...

Click to expand...

Thank you for that information. I was going off outdated info then. Sorry about that.

FalconHemi said:

I seriously hope you don't believe the semiconductor bologna that the media spread around. It was, however, an excellent excuse for car manufacturers to jack up prices and bolster profits. A friend of mine traded in his fully loaded 2018 Chevy Silverado 1500 for a brand new one, also fully loaded... but without heated and cooled seats, no climate control, and other goodies. He barely has cruise control. The only "blessing" that came out of it is that he doesn't have AFM. The dealer told him it was due to the "chip shortage." I explained that I just got a Durango GT Plus with all the gizmos and amenities. Amazing how they had chips to build mine.


My friend, what you are smelling is how US gasoline makes the engine oil smell. The only lubricants I found to resist better that kind of contamination are full-SAPS Euro oils and Red Line because it uses a similar additive package. Your average ILSAC GF6 motor oil will smell exceedingly bad after 4~5K miles driven on US gasoline. I don't know what they put in it, but it's garbage. It's also one of the reasons why German car manufacturers specified full-SAPS motor oils for the US market for the longest time, that's why you can still find API SN full-SAPS oils like Mobil 1 FS 0W-40/5W-40, Castrol, Pennzoil and Quaker State, and Valvoline 5W-40 at Walmart and other stores.

According to EPA mandates, we're supposed to have ultra-low sulfur gasoline at least since 2017. Do all refiners respect the mandate? I have no clue. Is our winter gasoline junk? Absolutely, and worse, where I live, I think we get like 3~4 months out of the year the good summer gasoline... in a hot climate nonetheless.

Click to expand...

I'm an Electrical Engineer and use semi-conductor products all the time- it is not bologna. They are scarce and have been for a few years now. There was no price jackup for me, there was just delays.

This had 1000 miles on it and oil never smells as bad as this, ever. I've been playing with engines since I was 12 years old and I'm mid 50's now and I've never had oil that nasty after such a short period.