Towing with the bumper

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Heatheroo

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Yeah. I am sure it is rated for that.
BUT...
As I said... I don't care what the manual, dealer or manufacturer says that bumper hitch is good for. I don't believe them. I've seen what the a bumper looks like after a year pulling a small 2,000 lb cargo trailer. It's ugly... Especially after the back of the trailer has been slammed into the ground too many times. This pushes down on the bumper/hitch one too many times.

Don't do it... All to save a few hundred bucks. No thanks.
for what the OP intends to pull, the bumper/ball setup will work. The problem, as mentioned earlier, is that today's trucks sit much higher than earlier generations. The trailer he intends to pull is going to be traveling extremely nose high. For occasional runs to the dump with a cargo trailer, it's not a concern. Extended trips on the highway with a camper will be problematic.
 

BrenttheMouse

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Yeah. I am sure it is rated for that.
BUT...
As I said... I don't care what the manual, dealer or manufacturer says that bumper hitch is good for. I don't believe them. I've seen what the a bumper looks like after a year pulling a small 2,000 lb cargo trailer. It's ugly... Especially after the back of the trailer has been slammed into the ground too many times. This pushes down on the bumper/hitch one too many times.

Don't do it... All to save a few hundred bucks. No thanks.
I wouldn't want to drive, let alone be behind OP if they are towing anything with the bumper of their truck... Talk about a nightmare as another motorist on the road.
 

392DevilDog

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I think some of you need to go look at your bumper.

It is a thick piece of steel where the ball would go.

And as @crash68 mentioned...it is also how the hitch is mounted on a truck with one.

It is plenty stout enough to tow a trailer. The issue being how high the tongue is to get to the ball. If you have a trailer with some decent ground clearance it would not be an issue then.

It would be ideal with a trailer with surge brakes.

The sky is not falling.
 

Fifty

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Factory rear bumpers are just for cosmetic appearance, in my opinion. They do make a long shank 2" ball for that hole "in the bumper". I do not recommend that.. If you look under the rear bumper of a truck with out a tow package, their is a hitch that doesn't have the part you put the receiver in. If you did put a ball in it, the bumper does not carry the weight.
 

IDSandman

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The Ram 1500 rear bumper is a class III Bumper. It’s structurally built to tow up to 5klbs and 500lb tongue weight right at the bumper. This isn’t opinion, it’s fact straight from Ram. Of course as others have mentioned that to achieve proper drop/ball height, a receiver type hitch is best. Plus they/most up your tow capacity.
 
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77gmcserria

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Yes, I agree that the bumper tow will most likely be too high. A class V trailer receiver will have to be ordered.
Is there a way to install a factory trailer brake?
 

GTyankee

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Class V is way over board for a 1500, but great for a 2500

Class 4 is what most Ram 1500s leave the factory with

There are 2 kinds of Class 3 bumpers
#1 looks like a Class 4 hitch & is bolted to the Main Frame

#2 uses a cross brace that connects to the main frame & the trucks bumper hole as well

Just using the bumper hole alone is subject to bending the bumper outwards towards the trailer when you are running on rough roads or driving over a 4X4
the distance between the bumper braces is too great for lateral support

this Class 3 variation uses bumper bolt hole

1650607240856.png

Class 3 that bolts to the Main Frame, there is no pressure on the bumper at all

1650607553830.png

Class 4 Curt variation of several of CURTS Class 4

1650607851780.png

another Class 3
1650608148758.png
 
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GsRAM

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@crash68 and @392DevilDog are correct. There is sub structure under the bumper to carry the weight, it's not just the thin bumper.

With that said, I'd opt for a frame mounted hitch and never look back, for all the reasons already noted. I tow a utility trailer that's rated for just under 3k gvwr without trailer brakes and never thought to add them. Typically the weight loaded is in the 2k range and I have no problems. You have to be smart and account for extra stopping distance, but its not unsafe in my opinion.

North of 3k loaded trailer weight, electric trailer brakes should be utilized in my opinion (and state law here in PA)
 

crash68

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Is there a way to install a factory trailer brake?
The Mopar part# 82215040AC
You can install the OEM trailer brake set up yourself and either enable/program with AlfaOBD or have a dealership program it.
Once you have the trailer brake programmed If you have the 7" EVIC the trailer brake information will show up on there. There is also settings that are in the 8.4 and can save trailer configurations.
 

Heatheroo

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The Mopar part# 82215040AC
You can install the OEM trailer brake set up yourself and either enable/program with AlfaOBD or have a dealership program it.
Once you have the trailer brake programmed If you have the 7" EVIC the trailer brake information will show up on there. There is also settings that are in the 8.4 and can save trailer configurations.
or you can install an aftermarket brake controller which negates the need to program via a trip to the dealer or utilizing an AlfaOBD. There are a lot of brands. Tekonsha is popular and they are plug and play when using the correct wiring harness. Installation for me was ~20 minutes.
 

crash68

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or you can install an aftermarket brake controller which negates the need to program via a trip to the dealer or utilizing an AlfaOBD. There are a lot of brands. Tekonsha is popular and they are plug and play when using the correct wiring harness. Installation for me was ~20 minutes.
True but none of the aftermarket come close to the integration that the OEM one does.
The OEM one uses not only braking force but also vehicle speed for the amount of braking force to be applied along with being monitored and adjusted by the vehicle stability controls. When properly adjusted you don't feel the trailer pushing or pulling on the truck at all.
Also the OEM trailer trailer brake information is right in front of you on the EVIC along with the trailer disconnect warning. There also nothing hanging under the dash to hit you leg on which is common place for aftermarket controllers to be mounted.
A lot of people on this forum will agree the OEM is well worth the added time and expense to install.
 

Fediej

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Tekonsha makes a wireless rf version, and there are bluetooth controllers as well, no need for a box by your knee anymore. But having it integrated into the truck itself imo is just really nice.
 

TomB 1269

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I have the Curt style in previous pictures. It states its rated for 6000lbs/10000lbs and for $70 fits the bill perfectly. Installs extremely easy.
As for bumper pulling:
1. too high
2. can scratch bumper due to angle of trailer when pulling from bumper
3. when turning or backing it is much more likely to strike the bump on the left and right flanks....... Seen this often on bumper pulls
 

2003F350

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True but none of the aftermarket come close to the integration that the OEM one does.
The OEM one uses not only braking force but also vehicle speed for the amount of braking force to be applied along with being monitored and adjusted by the vehicle stability controls. When properly adjusted you don't feel the trailer pushing or pulling on the truck at all.
Also the OEM trailer trailer brake information is right in front of you on the EVIC along with the trailer disconnect warning. There also nothing hanging under the dash to hit you leg on which is common place for aftermarket controllers to be mounted.
A lot of people on this forum will agree the OEM is well worth the added time and expense to install.

This right here. Ever since my first experience with an integrated brake controller back in '08...I never want any other style. They just work so smoothly, and I have been around and tinkering with stand-alones for a long time.

That and, if you catch the dealer on a sale or have a REALLY good working relationship with them, you can get the factory one installed basically at-cost - it cost me $150 for my wife's F150 to have the IBC installed AND programmed...I don't think you can buy the higher-end Tekonsha ones for that price.
 

GsRAM

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I agree with the others on the mopar integrated factory brake controller. If that's an option for you it's the way to go.

However, if you have an older truck and/or the factory ITBC is not an option, the Tekonsha P3 is an excellent, strong braking unit I really liked when I had it installed in a 2000 Ford expedition Eddie bauer. It's a very smooth braking unit, just as smooth as the factory ITBC, no jerkiness like you'd have in a cheap timer based unit and the boost settings are really nice.
 

dhay13

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Another possible issue is the angle, not only the height throwing the weight distribution off. My daughter has a 2016 Wrangler with 4" lift and 35's and had about a 4" drop insert. She was towing her 6x12 trailer to our house and it came off the ball 3x on the way. When she got here she was panicked. I backed her trailer into our garage so the trailer was uphill and used my floor jack to try to pop it off. We went in and ordered a 12" drop and she hasn't had an issue since. Apparently the angle was so bad that the latch didn't properly fit against the ball. Had never seen that happen and since the bigger drop fixed it I assume the angle was the issue. BTW - I towed her trailer back to her house that day with my 1500 with her insert and had no issues so it wasn't a coupler issue
 

Roncad

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My 2020 Ram 1500 Classic SLT came with the factory hitch crossmember but did not come with the trailer hitch receiver, which is a bolt on kit that takes about 1/2 hour to install and costs under $100. It completes your under the bumper factory class 3 hitch and includes the holes for your safety chains. Add a good quality slide-in hitch and ball and you are ready to go. Backing up to a ball on your bumper is problematic for the reasons stated before, height issues, strength issues, and damage to your bumper, license plate, and/or tailgate if you miss backing up.....which we all have. I have not been able to find an oem trailer brake module (not buying Chinese), as all are back ordered, so an aftermarket one may be in my future. From years of towing with my light dutied trucks and my duallies I learned one essential thing: Overkill in towing is not a bad thing.........having higher tire ratings, suspension rating, horsepower, hitch capacity, and ESPECIALLY braking is safer than underkill. Don't try to go cheap.......your life and equipment depend on it.
 

farout75

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Iirc, There is a section in the owners manual that goes over the set up and weight restrictions for using the old fashioned ball and bumper method of towing. Cuts towing capacity to something like 2 or 3000 pounds.
Like others have stated you'd probably be better off in the long run with the class IV hitch setup but it's not necessarily a requirement. Not for light duty stuff anyway.
Most members have probably never seen a bumper mount actually being used, or at least don't remember. Ah the good ol' days of pulling that overloaded 8x10 single axle to the landfill. Going across the mud and ruts, that rusty bumper canted at a 30 degree angle towards the ground. The 80's were a much simpler time. ;-)
I would not use that bumper for anything but looking shiny. But a hitch at U haul and wire it properly. Being safe and even above is ALWAYS best!
 

Elkman

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If one ever plans to tow a trailer the factory tow package is dirt cheap and the best upgrade value available. It include the hitch receiver and the wiring and usually includes extra cooling for the transmission and low gears. The factory brake controllers are another matter as some are good and sometimes the aftermarket ones are much better in terms of performance.

The last thing I want to do is kill or seriously injure someone because of an accident caused while towing a trailer. I realize that mine is a minority opinion based on the behavior I see in the USA.
 

dhay13

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If one ever plans to tow a trailer the factory tow package is dirt cheap and the best upgrade value available. It include the hitch receiver and the wiring and usually includes extra cooling for the transmission and low gears. The factory brake controllers are another matter as some are good and sometimes the aftermarket ones are much better in terms of performance.

The last thing I want to do is kill or seriously injure someone because of an accident caused while towing a trailer. I realize that mine is a minority opinion based on the behavior I see in the USA.
For once I agree with Elkman :)
 
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