Need help! At wit's end.

My 11 intermittent over crank no start before it completely wouldn't start. I replaced fuel pump and then found this TIPM bypass. I have used the bypass for about 2 years now to no fail.

https://www.google.com/search?q=201...-att-us-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#

I would hold off on the parts changing and use an amp probe and an appropriate scanner to perform a relative compression test.

I may be way off, but the sound of that hemi cranking over didn't sound normal to me.

PoMansRam said:

Sorry if it's been mentioned, but the sound/cadence of that hemi being cranked over by the starter doesn't sound right at all.

Sounds like you've got some dead holes where cylinders should be.

Does the cadence change if you crank it over in clear flood mode? (Hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking).

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Yeah that sounds all wrong. Almost reminds me of a Honda I had where the timing belt snapped. I really wonder if the timing chain is broken.

That does sound out of time, do not spend any more money on parts. Without having proper equipment, you may have to check timing the hard way and remove cover to physically look. Sadly the money spent already, would of paid towing.

Looking at the video, the cranking is too slow and if you look at the battery gage is it showing 11 volts and 9 when cranking. Charge up the battery and try again. You need 12 volts to have the engine start and run properly. If you have to swap out the battery. IT also sounds like it is having a hard time turning over. Possible timing issues.

Wally I think it actually sounds like it's turning over too easily considering the low voltage... and the sound cadence is off.

PoMansRam said:

Sorry if it's been mentioned, but the sound/cadence of that hemi being cranked over by the starter doesn't sound right at all.

Sounds like you've got some dead holes where cylinders should be.

Does the cadence change if you crank it over in clear flood mode? (Hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking).

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Yeah, I agree. In some respects it sounds like it's been flooded. Check for a pulse signal out of the Camshaft Position Sensor. If you've got no signal, could be the sensor. Next check would be to remove both valve covers and check for rocker arm movement. If they are all okay, check for an out-of-time condition (broken or over stretched timing chain).

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 68770 miles

Sounds like something binding, not correct induction, timing out (what I would think if it was an old chevy). Would also help having battery boosted when turning over also, but definitely sounds like out of time and too much fuel.

BUT, just an opinion hearing the recording, I am no Mechanic. Just kinda played a lot in yard, drive way, etc

Are you sure you put the correct starter in ?

Unless I missed it, I haven't heard anyone ask if there was fire to the spark plugs? I now that sounds old school but if there is no fire in the wires at least that's a starting point. If you have one of those old antique things called a timing light you can hook it up and just watch for the light to flash. If it don't flash you have no fire to the plugs. I didn't hear any firing in the video. Just a half dead battery a starter fixin to burn out.

I don't know how you could hook a timing light up on these trucks.
Battery too low, check for spark, check fuel pressure, if good , cylinders could be flooded.
Pull a couple plugs out and look to see if wet or dry, and check for spark at same time.
if dry , than I would spray a dab of gas in TB as it is cranking.

If chain is gone, than the valves will be as well.
Good luck.

checking spark plugs wires with a Coil on Boot setup may be a bit hard to do


you would have to check the Coil Wire

I would think that you would need something like an Oscilloscope or something

Checking out the Coil on Boot setup, Lubing the Boot

i found this VERY interesting, 2 videos


&

magman777 said:

Unless I missed it, I haven't heard anyone ask if there was fire to the spark plugs? I now that sounds old school but if there is no fire in the wires at least that's a starting point. If you have one of those old antique things called a timing light you can hook it up and just watch for the light to flash. If it don't flash you have no fire to the plugs. I didn't hear any firing in the video. Just a half dead battery a starter fixin to burn out.

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Like this???

That pictured timing light looks like it has the induction clamp for fastening to a high tension lead along with the positive and negative leads for the battery + and ground. It should sense the pulse to any plug OK. For sensor tests, I'd recommend the Sunpro CP9080 (~$ 30) which I successfully used on my 1996 V10 8L. (but you have to be creative to hook up its alligator-equipped input cables; T-pins recommended but don't let your wife catch you "borrowing" them). The test set verified my suspicion that the crankshaft sensor was dead. Had to order two from China just in case one was defective (both tested good before replacing) Or, borrow an O'scope to monitor each sensor's DC input and pulsed DC output. (In my case, it showed 5 VDC in and nothing out on crankshaft rotation.) Any electronics lab rat or radio amateur (I am both, KA7MWQ) should be able to show you how to run the 'scope. Quite a few vids on the Tube show folks using the CP9080. I've got a video on YT showing me using a 'scope to time my LS650 Suzuki.

UPDATE: Pull the plug and got it towed to a reputable garage. We'll see what he says and what was causing the issue. Thanks for everybody's input.

Spamcan said:

That pictured timing light looks like it has the induction clamp for fastening to a high tension lead along with the positive and negative leads for the battery + and ground. It should sense the pulse to any plug OK. For sensor tests, I'd recommend the Sunpro CP9080 (~$ 30) which I successfully used on my 1996 V10 8L. (but you have to be creative to hook up its alligator-equipped input cables; T-pins recommended but don't let your wife catch you "borrowing" them). The test set verified my suspicion that the crankshaft sensor was dead. Had to order two from China just in case one was defective (both tested good before replacing) Or, borrow an O'scope to monitor each sensor's DC input and pulsed DC output. (In my case, it showed 5 VDC in and nothing out on crankshaft rotation.) Any electronics lab rat or radio amateur (I am both, KA7MWQ) should be able to show you how to run the 'scope. Quite a few vids on the Tube show folks using the CP9080. I've got a video on YT showing me using a 'scope to time my LS650 Suzuki.

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YUP, early 70's Craftsman Special, I got the Multi Analyzer also, and combustion reader, came as a set. They got over used in the 70's and early 80's.

ADDED: @Spamcam: U know yer timing lights.

You need one of these if you want to go state of the art! No bluetooth needed! LOL

In all seriousness, there should be codes if there's a misfire or CPS issue. Plus I suggested before to ohm out the coils/plugs, etc (do a compression test). Those are the basics...

I hope you get it figured out and it's nothing too serious. Don't take this wrong as I understand the frustration, but for just for future use when people are searching for the solutions. Randomly chucking parts at a vehicle is not the right thing to do, and as stated in a previous posts many of the parts changed have nothing to do with the problem. Somebody complains about $300 to tow their vehicle to a shop but than throw 3 times that much money throwing random parts at it.
In regards to the code on this vehicle........that codes does not say " the cam position sensor is bad". Most people see a code that mentions some sensor and think it means that sensor is bad. That is NOT what the codes means. Rather a code states that there is an unusual, out of spec, out of range signal in the circuit. It can be because the sensor is bad, but just as good of a chance the sensor is perfectly good and it's either the wiring or there is actually a problem with the engine. For example, in my years of working on vehicles that have an O2 sensor code it is rarely actually the sensor that is bad. Ironically the last vehicle I worked on that actually had a bad O2 sensor never set any O2 sensor related codes!