Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Rod Knock

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However, I'm hesitant to call this a success until I reach the 2000 mile mark as it took that long for my truck not to like the PUP 5w30/0w40 mix I did years ago.
Pennzoil can hardly be compared to Red Line or AMSOIL. Pennzoil is the Budweiser of motor oil. And there is nothing wrong with that, some folk like Budweiser... However, AMSOIL and RedLine use superior ingredients and chemistries. I doubt that your experience will be similar.

Funny you should mention this, I've been VERY impressed with SS 0w40. So far.

I have about 1000 miles on this run, about 680 of this is towing my camper through the mountains of western MA and NY. I have no ticking on either side of the motor. When I tried the SN+ formula SS 5w30 it was ticking by 500 miles of just driving, no towing. So this is very encouraging.

However, I'm hesitant to call this a success until I reach the 2000 mile mark as it took that long for my truck not to like the PUP 5w30/0w40 mix I did years ago.
AMSOIL SS is their best motor oil. On b@@bs there was someone comparing AMSOIL SS 0W-40 to PUP SRT 0W-40. And he was doing it using UOAs. Of course, everyone agreed that AMSOIL is overpriced and that PUP is cheaper and did marginally "better" on the UOA. His engine? 6.4L HEMI. The hypocrisy bogles the mind because the dogma on b@@bs is that you can't use UOAs to infer wear, which is something I happen to agree with. Folks who've been there for a long time also agree. That's because the "wear metals" are particles that the oil interacted with and disolved into a liquid. That's why Red Line shows higher wear on UOAs, when in fact it lowers wear.

I was particularily impressed when I put Red Line 5W-30 in my mom's 2017 3.3L Santa Fe, and it made the start-up timing chain rattle completely dissapear after I got it up to temperature and drove it around for 10 minutes. The rattle is due to a worn tensioner that Hyundai refuses to address, and her vehicle has 26K miles on the clock. Debris accumulates and prevents it from moving back and forth fast enough. Well, Red Line took care of than. I am switching all our vehicles to Red Line. Considering what we currently pay for some of the worse gasoline on the planet, the cost of Red Line is a drop in the bucket.

Something interesting: the additive packages and friction modifiers for Valvoline MaxLife, AMSOIL ATL (blue cap), and RedLine D6 are identical. The only difference are the base oils, with Red Line and AMSOIL being higher quality.

I also just got my order from Elite Race Fab delivered, all Red Line fluids for the Durango.

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Travis8352

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Pennzoil can hardly be compared to Red Line or AMSOIL. Pennzoil is the Budweiser of motor oil. And there is nothing wrong with that, some folk like Budweiser... However, AMSOIL and RedLine use superior ingredients and chemistries. I doubt that your experience will be similar.


AMSOIL SS is their best motor oil. On b@@bs there was someone comparing AMSOIL SS 0W-40 to PUP SRT 0W-40. And he was doing it using UOAs. Of course, everyone agreed that AMSOIL is overpriced and that PUP is cheaper and did marginally "better" on the UOA. His engine? 6.4L HEMI. The hypocrisy bogles the mind because the dogma on b@@bs is that you can't use UOAs to infer wear, which is something I happen to agree with. Folks who've been there for a long time also agree. That's because the "wear metals" are particles that the oil interacted with and disolved into a liquid. That's why Red Line shows higher wear on UOAs, when in fact it lowers wear.

I was particularily impressed when I put Red Line 5W-30 in my mom's 2017 3.3L Santa Fe, and it made the start-up timing chain rattle completely dissapear after I got it up to temperature and drove it around for 10 minutes. The rattle is due to a worn tensioner that Hyundai refuses to address, and her vehicle has 26K miles on the clock. Debris accumulates and prevents it from moving back and forth fast enough. Well, Red Line took care of than. I am switching all our vehicles to Red Line. Considering what we currently pay for some of the worse gasoline on the planet, the cost of Red Line is a drop in the bucket.

Something interesting: the additive packages and friction modifiers for Valvoline MaxLife, AMSOIL ATL (blue cap), and RedLine D6 are identical. The only difference are the base oils, with Red Line and AMSOIL being higher quality.

I also just got my order from Elite Race Fab delivered, all Red Line fluids for the Durango.

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What exactly makes our gasoline the worst on the planet? Im curious as i genuinly dont know much about gasoline other than most people say ours sucks
 

Rod Knock

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What exactly makes our gasoline the worst on the planet? Im curious as i genuinly dont know much about gasoline other than most people say ours sucks
High water content for one. Sheetz is one of the worse offenders. I have had bad experiences with both their gas and Diesel. It's funny because you can see the water in the Diesel fuel in the decanter. Does anyone care, or will anyone do anything about it? Nope!

Using Ethanol instead of a proper additive to bring up the octanes is another dirty thing they do, calling it "oxygenates." Now they're saying that E15 is bad for the environment, even though it has more oxygenates, and E10 is somehow good??? Yep, that was the reason why E15 wasn't available year-round, because of, and I quote, "air quality concerns."

There are a few other countries that mass-market lousy gasoline. However, none of them do it at this scale. It's ridiculous.
 

Rod Knock

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Well, EliteRaceFab no longer has the decent deals it used to have on some of the Red Line oils like 5W-20 and 5W-30. I mean, you can get the same price or better on Amazon now.

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KKBB

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Well, EliteRaceFab no longer has the decent deals it used to have on some of the Red Line oils like 5W-20 and 5W-30. I mean, you can get the same price or better on Amazon now.

View attachment 491960
Agreed. I had some in my cart about a week ago for $38 something and a few days ago it wasn't there anymore. When I looked to see what was going on, the price went up 20 bucks.
 

Rod Knock

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Agreed. I had some in my cart about a week ago for $38 something and a few days ago it wasn't there anymore. When I looked to see what was going on, the price went up 20 bucks.
It's lovely how prices spike overnight on just about anything, with no stability whatsoever. Yet if you're a contractor and ask to be compensated fairly for your work, you get laughed at instead of getting paid. What's this world coming to?!
 

KKBB

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It's lovely how prices spike overnight on just about anything, with no stability whatsoever. Yet if you're a contractor and ask to be compensated fairly for your work, you get laughed at instead of getting paid. What's this world coming to?!
IMO the world isn't going in the right direction in a lot of ways. I was wanting to give redline a try, but when I can get PUP 5w-20 for my wife's durango for under 25 bucks for the 5 quart jug, I have to look at the bottom dollar. I got a 2% raise at work this year, more job responsibilities and cost of living went up 6-10%...so I just went backwards quite a bit. Not a good feeling!!
 

huntergreen

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Pennzoil can hardly be compared to Red Line or AMSOIL. Pennzoil is the Budweiser of motor oil. And there is nothing wrong with that, some folk like Budweiser... However, AMSOIL and RedLine use superior ingredients and chemistries. I doubt that your experience will be similar.


AMSOIL SS is their best motor oil. On b@@bs there was someone comparing AMSOIL SS 0W-40 to PUP SRT 0W-40. And he was doing it using UOAs. Of course, everyone agreed that AMSOIL is overpriced and that PUP is cheaper and did marginally "better" on the UOA. His engine? 6.4L HEMI. The hypocrisy bogles the mind because the dogma on b@@bs is that you can't use UOAs to infer wear, which is something I happen to agree with. Folks who've been there for a long time also agree. That's because the "wear metals" are particles that the oil interacted with and disolved into a liquid. That's why Red Line shows higher wear on UOAs, when in fact it lowers wear.

I was particularily impressed when I put Red Line 5W-30 in my mom's 2017 3.3L Santa Fe, and it made the start-up timing chain rattle completely dissapear after I got it up to temperature and drove it around for 10 minutes. The rattle is due to a worn tensioner that Hyundai refuses to address, and her vehicle has 26K miles on the clock. Debris accumulates and prevents it from moving back and forth fast enough. Well, Red Line took care of than. I am switching all our vehicles to Red Line. Considering what we currently pay for some of the worse gasoline on the planet, the cost of Red Line is a drop in the bucket.

Something interesting: the additive packages and friction modifiers for Valvoline MaxLife, AMSOIL ATL (blue cap), and RedLine D6 are identical. The only difference are the base oils, with Red Line and AMSOIL being higher quality.

I also just got my order from Elite Race Fab delivered, all Red Line fluids for the Durang

Interesting analogy between Bud and penzoil, as I use both.
 

Rod Knock

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Interesting analogy between Bud and penzoil, as I use both.
I made the analogy for comedic effect, to get some of you fellas to laugh, or at least giggle a bit. Truth be told, I was making the comparison because both Pennzoil and Budweiser are mass-produced products, so they are both blended (and fermented) to a price point. While products like Red Line and AMSOIL will not stray from their traditional formulations, especially Red Line, but rather go up in price. Don't get me wrong, Mobil 1 and Castrol are not any different. Actually, Castrol might be the worse offender because all the motor oils blended for the US market (black bottle EDGE and GTX) are made with the cheapest available Group III base oils. High NOACK is present with these oils. Castrol EDGE EP (gold bottle) is a different story though, it's a European formulation. So if I tried, I'm sure I could find a companion beer brand for each motor oil.

Love me some ice cold budweiser
I'm not picky about beer. As long as it's ice-cold, tastes good, and is enjoyable, I'd love me a brewsky along with a freshly grilled burger or some steak, or even a hot dog. Now I'm getting hungry...
 

huntergreen

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I made the analogy for comedic effect, to get some of you fellas to laugh, or at least giggle a bit. Truth be told, I was making the comparison because both Pennzoil and Budweiser are mass-produced products, so they are both blended (and fermented) to a price point. While products like Red Line and AMSOIL will not stray from their traditional formulations, especially Red Line, but rather go up in price. Don't get me wrong, Mobil 1 and Castrol are not any different. Actually, Castrol might be the worse offender because all the motor oils blended for the US market (black bottle EDGE and GTX) are made with the cheapest available Group III base oils. High NOACK is present with these oils. Castrol EDGE EP (gold bottle) is a different story though, it's a European formulation. So if I tried, I'm sure I could find a companion beer brand for each motor oil.


I'm not picky about beer. As long as it's ice-cold, tastes good, and is enjoyable, I'd love me a brewsky along with a freshly grilled burger or some steak, or even a hot dog. Now I'm getting hungry...
I understood what you were saying. It’s just that kids laugh when I buy Bud these days. Lol
 

Rod Knock

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IMO the world isn't going in the right direction in a lot of ways. I was wanting to give redline a try, but when I can get PUP 5w-20 for my wife's durango for under 25 bucks for the 5 quart jug, I have to look at the bottom dollar. I got a 2% raise at work this year, more job responsibilities and cost of living went up 6-10%...so I just went backwards quite a bit. Not a good feeling!!
I'll add the following: never pity the fool, and you can't fix stupid. Fear-mongering is sn0wballing, with everyone playing the shortage game. It's gotten above ridiculous levels now. I see inventory overflow because various vendors can no longer sell overpriced GPUs and are now trying to pawn off products at MSRP or below, telling customers that "they're doing them a favor." The same is happening in the car business and other industries: artificial shortages, artificial devaluation, and incredible price hikes. The cost of living went up more than 10%. I'm sorry to tell you that. And here is why I started this rant the way I did: the masses are too sheep to vote with their dollars and labor. They want instant gratification, so they are willing to borrow themselves into oblivion. They will work for next to nothing in an attempt to feed themselves. And when there is more month left at the end of the money, they will borrow some more. It never ends. As individuals, we are powerless and insignificant. A handful of powerful banks rule and control the planet. Enjoy neo-indebted-servitude. I just wanted to let you know who's making your life miserable, just in case you were wondering.

Regarding motor oil, when it comes to off-the-shelf products, I will always pick Mobil 1, with a few exceptions. Mobil 1 has abandoned full SAPS motor oils, as they haven't updated their formulations in a very long time. If I need that, Shell Helix Ultra / Quaker State Euro / Pennzoil Euro (they are the same) are products updated to API SP standards and the latest OEM approvals. API Starburst / ILSAC motor oils, I would say that Mobil 1 Extended Performance is the best choice. Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 is the only off-the-shelf motor oil you can purchase at Walmart blended only with Group IV and V base oils. The other oils in the Extended Performance lineup are blended with GTL, PAO, and Alkalythed Naphtalines. Contrast that to Pennzoil Platinum that's Group III + GTL and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum that's only GTL. This last one is very low density, and that's why some folks, including myself, noticed noisy engines, especially noisy HEMIs while running it.

Lastly, you can't use UOAs to determine how good oil is at preventing wear. The "wear metals" shown in UOAs are not wear metals but particles that the oil managed to absorb and dissolve. If that were the case, Red Line Oil would come out as the worst of them all, especially on a first run, as it's very good at dissolving loose metal particles. PUP has very poor solvency because it's made from GTL, so it always shows low "wear numbers." Red Line has excellent solvency and will also clean out crud like almost no other motor oil. As a result, it shows high wear metals on cheap UOAs. I have grown to love Red Line Oil. My only regret is that I started using it full-time so late.

As it pertains to cost, considering how expensive everything is, the fact that I do my oil changes, and that I can cut costs in other places, including never eating out, I can say that I'd rather spend $40 to $50 on a gallon of Red Line than $30 to $35 on Mobil 1, or even $40, per oil change. Realistically the price difference is about $30 to $40 per oil change. To me, it's worth spending that in return for slightly better fuel mileage and better engine protection. And yes, it's hands-down better than Mobil 1 or Pennzoil or anything else that's API licensed. Period.

The statements above are my opinion only. I'm sure that many will disagree with them, especially if I was to make them on b@@bs. People tend to talk down Red Line Oil until they use it, and it actually solves a problem or two for them. Then they tend to shut up. I'm somewhat guilty of that as well.
 

ramffml

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Interesting video showing how engine oil is rated and what tests they use. Sponsored by Mobil 1 but still fascinating:
 

HEMIMANN

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Crikey - finally took off for the woods this weekend and haven't gotten to 3,000 miles on the Red Line 0W-30 still. One of these days summer's gonna show up instantly - then the 5W-30 goes in. I think I last changed oil in November.
 

KKBB

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Crikey - finally took off for the woods this weekend and haven't gotten to 3,000 miles on the Red Line 0W-30 still. One of these days summer's gonna show up instantly - then the 5W-30 goes in. I think I last changed oil in November.
Haha. You could probably drain it and reuse it for next winter.
 

Burla

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I just used the last of syn's free oil on the wife's car latest change, I can't wait to move to kirkland 5w30 oil...

Viscosity 100°C cSt
9.3 to <12.5 11.6

Viscosity Index
175

Status
Calcium (ppm)

1,367

Magnesium (ppm)

564

TBN, mg KOH/g (ASTM D2896)

8.0

Phosphorus
600 to 800 -a
776

Zinc
870

Molybdenum
82

Boron
248
 

Optiger

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Just purchased a new to me 2019 Ram 1500 Classic, crew cab, 4x4, white, with night edition package. Want this truck to last as long as possible. it has 36k miles on it. Ive been reading through this thread and its vast wealth of knowledge. That being said, there is so much info here, want to make sure i am putting in my truck what it needs. I am going to go with the Puralator boss PBL24651 for a filter. What off the shelf 5w30 should i go with and add lubegard, or should i just go with RL 5w30? I am in the Kansas City area and the truck will do some towing as we have a travel trailer that weighs about 4k dry.
 

Rod Knock

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Just purchased a new to me 2019 Ram 1500 Classic, crew cab, 4x4, white, with night edition package. Want this truck to last as long as possible. it has 36k miles on it. Ive been reading through this thread and its vast wealth of knowledge. That being said, there is so much info here, want to make sure i am putting in my truck what it needs. I am going to go with the Puralator boss PBL24651 for a filter. What off the shelf 5w30 should i go with and add lubegard, or should i just go with RL 5w30? I am in the Kansas City area and the truck will do some towing as we have a travel trailer that weighs about 4k dry.
The PBL 24651 is what I use on the RAM 1500. My dad drives it now, but I still take care of it. I am also a big RedLine and AMSOIL and Mobil 1 fanboy. We just got a new Jeep for my wife and I got all AMSOIL fluids for hers and for my Durango I got all Red Line fluids. I am telling you all of this so you understand that I am not biased one way or the other.

RedLine makes very good products, targeted at folks who drive hard. You will see the biggest improvement by going to a 180F thermostat and by removing 8 out of 12 grille shutters. Then you can and should run Red Line 5W-20. If you want to keep your current thermostat (203F) and grille shutters, then your engine will run hotter, so run Red Line 5W-30. There is no substitute for what Red Line can do, especially in a hot engine. Adding Lubegard to anything won't do much for you. It's a package of organic EP additives and detergents. It can help a weak conventional oil for sure, but it can't do much for a good synthetic. It's best to just use Red Line in a HEMI.

Sidenote: if you decide to run your engine cooler with a 180F thermostat, then AMSOIL is also a very good choice, especially for long drain intervals. Yes, you can go for many miles on Red Line as well. AMSOIL though has a slight edge here. If you do 5K to 7500 mile OCIs, or up to 10K, Red Line will be fine.

I hope this helps.
 
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