Rear end locked up

dkelly3103 said:

Well I don’t know for sure yet if there in the ‘giving’ mood lol. We all know they will say one thing over the phone then change the story when it gets there. One question though I’ve never had a recall done before so will they will cover everything that was damaged as a result of the recalled item failing or just the recalled item?

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They should change everything connected to the driveline that got broken. I'd have them check the trans. also, hope it didn't damage anything up inside of it besides the transfer case. IMO.

MikeysCars said:

They should change everything connected to the driveline that got broken. I'd have them check the trans. also, hope it didn't damage anything up inside of it besides the transfer case. IMO.

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Yep, just heard back from them today and the claim has been approved for it to be repaired. The only questionable thing is they stated the rear diff has been discontinued and I might have to cover the cost of a replacement. I don’t think that’s acceptable so I will not that go, however we will see how it goes from here.

dkelly3103 said:

Yep, just heard back from them today and the claim has been approved for it to be repaired. The only questionable thing is they stated the rear diff has been discontinued and I might have to cover the cost of a replacement. I don’t think that’s acceptable so I will not that go, however we will see how it goes from here.

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The rear diff looks to still be rebuildable,if not push hard for them to install the later ZF diff,which is available,and will bolt into your truck with very minor mods,ie:relocating and extending the abs sensor wiring,so it'll work on the back side of the axle,instead of the front of the axle

Wild one said:

The rear diff looks to still be rebuildable,if not push hard for them to install the later ZF diff,which is available,and will bolt into your truck with very minor mods,ie:relocating and extending the abs sensor wiring,so it'll work on the back side of the axle,instead of the front of the axle

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I mentioned getting it rebuilt and they said that wasn’t an option. I’ll mention the ZF diff but will they still consider it even though it needs a few modifications to work?

dkelly3103 said:

I mentioned getting it rebuilt and they said that wasn’t an option. I’ll mention the ZF diff but will they still consider it even though it needs a few modifications to work?

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That i don't know. It's not a hard swap that's for sure,but whether they'll consider it who knows ,especially when it comes to a dealership. Odds are the later diff probably isn't listed for your truck,and that'll screw up a dealers mind big time,lol

dkelly3103 said:

Yep, just heard back from them today and the claim has been approved for it to be repaired. The only questionable thing is they stated the rear diff has been discontinued and I might have to cover the cost of a replacement. I don’t think that’s acceptable so I will not that go, however we will see how it goes from here.

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Why should you have to cover the replacement diff? They fvcked it up. It's on them, IMO.

EdGs said:

Why should you have to cover the replacement diff? They fvcked it up. It's on them, IMO.

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That’s exactly my thoughts. Seems like they’re just trying to get anything out of it they can considering the first time they called, they had a quote ready for the cost of everything including labor and didn’t even mention the recall which is the whole reason I had it towed to them.

Wild one said:

The rear diff looks to still be rebuildable,if not push hard for them to install the later ZF diff,which is available,and will bolt into your truck with very minor mods,ie:relocating and extending the abs sensor wiring,so it'll work on the back side of the axle,instead of the front of the axle

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To put the ZF diff in, the dealership would need released engineering from FCA/Stellantis telling them that is acceptable. While doable, the dealership needs coverage for legal reasons to do this and satisfy a repair, especially for one tied to a recall.

Hootbro said:

To put the ZF diff in, the dealership would need released engineering from FCA/Stellantis telling them that is acceptable. While doable, the dealership needs coverage for legal reasons to do this and satisfy a repair, especially for one tied to a recall.

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How would I go about suggesting this to them? Do they have grounds to decline it even if a oem diff for my truck is unavailable?

Also, are they required to use new/reman parts when repairing my truck? They mentioned them getting a diff from a junkyard as a last resort.

dkelly3103 said:

Also, are they required to use new/reman parts when repairing my truck? They mentioned them getting a diff from a junkyard as a last resort.

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Considering you'd got 193,000 out of the original diff,if they can find you a lower milege diff then what you had,you're still ahead of the game.You were considering a diff with 150,000 miles on it last friday,lol. If they end up finding you a used diff,insist they throw new axle seals in it,you could push for a new pinion seal,but to properly replace the pinion seal,they should also replace the crush sleeve,and then reset the pinion turning torque,but that entails pulling the carrier out,and they might not want to do that

dkelly3103 said:

How would I go about suggesting this to them? Do they have grounds to decline it even if a oem diff for my truck is unavailable?

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The dealership is only going to do what their service data and parts catalog call out for your VIN. If the new ZF diff part numbers is not listed for your VIN as a suitable substitute, then there is probably no released engineering to do so for the repair. To pursue it further would have to go higher up the corporate food chain and I do not see your dealership leading the ball on that.

dkelly3103 said:

Also, are they required to use new/reman parts when repairing my truck? They mentioned them getting a diff from a junkyard as a last resort.

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There is language in either the OM and/or warranty documents that give them the flexibility to use reman and salvage parts to make a repair. Being a recall repair, that may have some different requirements but I am not sure on that.

Wild one said:

Considering you'd got 193,000 out of the original diff,if they can find you a lower milege diff then what you had,you're still ahead of the game.You were considering a diff with 150,000 miles on it last friday,lol. If they end up finding you a used diff,insist they throw new axle seals in it,you could push for a new pinion seal,but to properly replace the pinion seal,they should also replace the crush sleeve,and then reset the pinion turning torque,but that entails pulling the carrier out,and they might not want to do that

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Not saying I’m against a used diff, I just don’t want one put in if they are required to put in a new/reman one. They haven’t been honest so far so just trying to figure out what they can and cant do in this type of situation.

I've had diff's with over 300k on them on conservatively-driven vehicles which never gave up the ghost ....sooo, if properly serviced and not abused they generally last a long time.

FWIW, even though the 'right' thing to do by the book is to replace the crush sleeve, I've replaced a lot of pinion seals over the years and left the crush sleeve and everything alone (just a new seal), and never had a problem. And I know a lot of guys who've done the same. The key is to not disturb anything any more than necessary, don't hammer the heck out of the yoke (use pullers to remove if needed) ...and just replace the seal. And don't over-torque the nut when you reinstall it. It's worth noting there's a bit of wear in the bearings since the crush sleeve was initially installed 100k ago, so if a guy *does* gently pull the crush sleeve in just a little ...in the course of reinstalling a seal, if anything it might actually 'tighten' things up with the pinion which wouldn't be a bad thing. Don't zip the nut on with an impact like some monkey's might be inclined to do.

I would be inclined to lift up on the axles of the used rear-end before installation to see if they've got 'slop' in them, and reject it if they do. Also, I'd be inclined to replace the outer axle seals before the pinion seal if I were doing the job. But the dealership probably isn't going to want to do that under warranty. You can just leave the seals be and replace them if they start to leak. It's really not a lot more work to do down the road than now. Pretty much the same steps other than jack vehicle up and remove the wheels. ...it's possible the seals won't leak while you own it (??).

Also,
Make sure they clean out the 'breath' (vent) hole and hose in the new (used) axle. You never know if the axle got rolled over on the shop floor ...and some debris could have plugged the vent. Probably not but it only takes 1 minute to verify. A plugged vent hole will force lube out the seals once the lube/gears warm up and the expanding (warm) air inside needs to go 'somewhere'. Like I say, takes a minute and can save you 3 costly trips back to the shop because most mechanics will scratch their head and want to replace seals right away (which will still leak if the hole is plugged).

Wild one said:

Looks almost like the pinion nut backed off

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That’s exactly what happened. Pinion moves too deep into the ring and locks up.

Just called the dealer and got an update. So far they are still waiting on the transfer case and driveshaft to come in. Should be here in a couple days. They said the rear differential has been completely discontinued from all there sources so they are going to attempt to rebuild the differential that failed. Not sure what the “attempt” is about as I figured I’d be pretty easy to tell if it’s rebuildable or not after taking off the cover. They said they will not start working on it until all the parts are there so I’m still looking at atleast a few more weeks before I get it back it sounds like.

Don’t see why the rearend isn’t rebuildable the weak links snapped. Driveshaft, transfercase and joints. Off-roaders, drag cars and the like break stuff like this all the time and rebuild what they have left. Besides needing ring n pinion, bearing kit, possibly carrier and a long shot axles. Use this opportunity to pick and choose your gears, posi track or locker.

CaptQ said:

Don’t see why the rearend isn’t rebuildable the weak links snapped. Driveshaft, transfercase and joints. Off-roaders, drag cars and the like break stuff like this all the time and rebuild what they have left. Besides needing ring n pinion, bearing kit, possibly carrier and a long shot axles. Use this opportunity to pick and choose your gears, posi track or locker.

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Not sure why it wouldn’t be able to be rebuilt either. They just said “maybe”. And considering it’s covered under the recall I don’t think I’ll have the option of aftermarket add ons and definitely not different gears as I’ll have to change those on the front end as well.

I would ask them to put new outer axel seals in, if it's not part of their work (it should be). They'll have to remove the axles to work on the carrier. Take a look ...the bearings ride directly on the axle shaft like Chevys do. High probability with the miles you have on yer tk, the axles could be 'grooved' where the bearings ride, and there's probably excessive axle up/down 'play'.

A little isn't too big of a deal, but if its more than you're comfortable with, you might consider new axles. It 'could' be included as part of the repair, but then again they might not. If not, then you have to ask yourself how long you're going to drive it. Maybe leave what you have, or spend the $$ for replacements, and new bearings. Something to ask about. You couldd also whine that the shock to the rear diff put a lot of strain on the axles too, and maybe they're not safe to drive on now..