Towing Report: 5th gen with Andersen No Sway WDH

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ramffml

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I've towed for a few years now with my 2019. Never been happy with how it performs, except once. Same trailer, but different luggage/cargo in the bed and trailer, and I've only had it once where I thought "this is ok, I can live with this". Otherwise, there is this giant fat man bobbin up and down on the back of my bumper and it makes towing nauseous. Some of you have experienced this as I've read it on the forums, others pull much heavier trailers and have no issues, so clearly it is a "setup" issue as opposed to a "ram" issue. I've been using a Husky Centerline; it's stout!

But I also believe these Ram's are very unforgiving of an improper setup. If you dial it in at a cat scale, you're probably great. But I'm always carrying different amounts in my setup, and it's time to push Bob off my bumper.

I read about the Andersen no sway and as soon as I read how it works I wanted it. For a start it is light weight (like half the weight of my Husky), it's completely silent, very fast to setup and tear down with no requirement on special levers; but best of all, it uses chains as opposed to trunion bars. And from the trip I just made, I believe its a winner. I've never had my Husky perform like this. Bob is gone, by Bob.

I believe the chains make all the difference, because in my old setup the trunion bars were spring/tension loaded, and that interacts with the already flexible coil springs in our Rams. The chains do distribute the weight, but the chains never spring/bounce, so the only bounce now that I get is in the back of the truck; my WDH is no longer also springing. I'm convinced this is what has changed my experience. I've only made 1 short trip and one long trip in it so far but honestly my Husky never beat this and I fiddle faddled with it a lot, tape measure and multiple adjustments. This Andersen I just stopped 5 mins, turned each nut around 1 more time and kept going and that was it.

I know others here have really recommended the weigh safe and propride, but A) those were a lot more money, B) a lot heavier, and C) still more work to use all the time. That weigh safe looks incredibly well built, but again it uses trunion bars and I wanted to try the chains. So for me and my 6000 to 7000 pound trailer (usually closer to 6000 though), the Andersen is a clear win.

Wandering Weekends on YT did a hitch battle with his bigger trailer and F250. Very good watch as he trys about 6 different hitches, and even though he tried the Andersen in a second video he found it lacking. I can't agree with his final recommendation, but still worth a watch. His truck/trailer are completely different, I think he was concentrating more on horizontal sway from wind/trailers whereas I never had that issue but had vertical bounce that I wanted to get rid of. The Andersen does try to mitigate horizontal sway as well, the hitch head is very restrictive and doesn't turn very easy.

So if you have issues with Bob, try the Andersen or even an old school chain setup since my theory is that the dual bounce from the coils and the trunion bars are just too much in some setups. It might just do the trick for you.


 

OC455

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I've heard good things bout the Anderson hitch. If it does what you want it to do, and your confident with it's set up, that's awesome!

I still want a Weigh Safe TruTow. They've gone up in price.

I have the Curt TruTrack and is works well...just limited in how much you can really adjust it compared to others. It's built pretty heavy duty though.
 

OC455

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They seem like a great option, and that built in scale is very cool.
I have one of their adjustable drop hitches and I like it a lot. Light and easy to adjust.
 
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ramffml

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I've been running the Andersen for a year now. It's a fantastic WDH that's light weight and easy to use. I don't have any sway issues with it while towing a 27' trailer.

I am in a small lot and had to back up on an angle to unhook. Now my hitch is turned slightly, I imagine if I manage to back up at the same angle it will all line up again.

But just wondering what you do to solve this problem? Do you just tighten up the bolts anyway and end up working the one side a little harder until it turns?

And second question, have you ever adjusted the nuts while the hitch is resting 100% on truck or do you always put the stand down and pull the weight off the chains first before adjusting nuts? (I imagine you have it all figured out by now and don't do much tweaking anymore but still)
 

Riccochet

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I am in a small lot and had to back up on an angle to unhook. Now my hitch is turned slightly, I imagine if I manage to back up at the same angle it will all line up again.

But just wondering what you do to solve this problem? Do you just tighten up the bolts anyway and end up working the one side a little harder until it turns?

And second question, have you ever adjusted the nuts while the hitch is resting 100% on truck or do you always put the stand down and pull the weight off the chains first before adjusting nuts? (I imagine you have it all figured out by now and don't do much tweaking anymore but still)

If the chain plate is at a bit of an angle I tighten down one chain until it's straight. It's not hard to move it. As for adjusting, haven't had to. I tighten both nuts 4 full turns when hooking up and that's it.
 

dogbreath650

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If I'll be dropping the trailer at an angle I'll remove the chains early and the hook them up after attaching the trailer when I get straightened out. BTW this is the 2nd Anderson WDH I've had and love them. The chains hold the trailer tight to the truck, no noise or banging.
 

seadog1272

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I've used the Andersen WDH for 4 years with a 6500 lb 27 ft Travel Trailer, no noise , no grease, no sway, no bobbing. It is a fantastic WDH hitch at half the weight. I do have the 4 corner air suspension on my Ram, I suspect that it helps with the ride as well. here is a link to a video on how to straighten the triangle plate if you park at an angle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HO_QTxnJVN8
 
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ramffml

ramffml

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If I'll be dropping the trailer at an angle I'll remove the chains early and the hook them up after attaching the trailer when I get straightened out. BTW this is the 2nd Anderson WDH I've had and love them. The chains hold the trailer tight to the truck, no noise or banging.

So when you are dropping the chains early, do you go through the whole rigamarole of using the trailer tongue to remove tensions from the chain before loosening the nuts, or do you just back the nuts off with full tension still on the chains?

That's my biggest question, whether you can adjust the nuts when the chains have full tension on them.
 

seadog1272

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I have the air suspension option on my 2019, I just raise the the truck to the highest level and I can turn the nuts by hand.
 

gonzo628

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I've towed for a few years now with my 2019. Never been happy with how it performs, except once. Same trailer, but different luggage/cargo in the bed and trailer, and I've only had it once where I thought "this is ok, I can live with this". Otherwise, there is this giant fat man bobbin up and down on the back of my bumper and it makes towing nauseous. Some of you have experienced this as I've read it on the forums, others pull much heavier trailers and have no issues, so clearly it is a "setup" issue as opposed to a "ram" issue. I've been using a Husky Centerline; it's stout!

But I also believe these Ram's are very unforgiving of an improper setup. If you dial it in at a cat scale, you're probably great. But I'm always carrying different amounts in my setup, and it's time to push Bob off my bumper.

I read about the Andersen no sway and as soon as I read how it works I wanted it. For a start it is light weight (like half the weight of my Husky), it's completely silent, very fast to setup and tear down with no requirement on special levers; but best of all, it uses chains as opposed to trunion bars. And from the trip I just made, I believe its a winner. I've never had my Husky perform like this. Bob is gone, by Bob.

I believe the chains make all the difference, because in my old setup the trunion bars were spring/tension loaded, and that interacts with the already flexible coil springs in our Rams. The chains do distribute the weight, but the chains never spring/bounce, so the only bounce now that I get is in the back of the truck; my WDH is no longer also springing. I'm convinced this is what has changed my experience. I've only made 1 short trip and one long trip in it so far but honestly my Husky never beat this and I fiddle faddled with it a lot, tape measure and multiple adjustments. This Andersen I just stopped 5 mins, turned each nut around 1 more time and kept going and that was it.

I know others here have really recommended the weigh safe and propride, but A) those were a lot more money, B) a lot heavier, and C) still more work to use all the time. That weigh safe looks incredibly well built, but again it uses trunion bars and I wanted to try the chains. So for me and my 6000 to 7000 pound trailer (usually closer to 6000 though), the Andersen is a clear win.

Wandering Weekends on YT did a hitch battle with his bigger trailer and F250. Very good watch as he trys about 6 different hitches, and even though he tried the Andersen in a second video he found it lacking. I can't agree with his final recommendation, but still worth a watch. His truck/trailer are completely different, I think he was concentrating more on horizontal sway from wind/trailers whereas I never had that issue but had vertical bounce that I wanted to get rid of. The Andersen does try to mitigate horizontal sway as well, the hitch head is very restrictive and doesn't turn very easy.

So if you have issues with Bob, try the Andersen or even an old school chain setup since my theory is that the dual bounce from the coils and the trunion bars are just too much in some setups. It might just do the trick for you.


I have a 2021 2500 crew cab tradesman with the 8ft bed and use the Anderson No Sway to tow my 31.5 ft 8800lb Minnie Winnie and am quite fond of it. though, I will say it is not without its challenges. The Anderson requires a near straight TV hook up/unhooking, If you are "cattywampus", unhooking can be a challenge. (Disclaimer: I don't loosen my chains to hook/unhook but instead choose to use the tongue jack to remove tension from the chains.) The system will permit a small deviation in direct alignment. If you remove your chains each time, I suppose this is a somewhat moot point. Regarding later questions about straightening the alignment once it is twisted, there are videos online that walk this process. Basically, you'll want to try and align the truck so that the triangle plate's long edge is perpendicular to the truck and then hitch up. Remember that the ball does not move inside the coupler, it actually twists inside its aluminum mount. That is one of the reasons the triangle plate exists and is tied to the trailer via the chains. This is where the anti-sway friction material comes into play. This material makes up a cone that lines the tapered shaft of the ball inside the aluminum mount. Tongue weight forces the ball down in its mount and that action increases the friction which inhibits sway.
 

gonzo628

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If the chain plate is at a bit of an angle I tighten down one chain until it's straight. It's not hard to move it. As for adjusting, haven't had to. I tighten both nuts 4 full turns when hooking up and that's it.
DISCLAIMER: I am not an expert.

okay, disclaimer aside, I thought one of the primary benefits of the AWDH was the ball does not move in the coupler. The triangle plate and chains lock it to the trailer. If you are using the chains to twist the ball, aren't you defeating the purpose (even if only a little)?
 
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ramffml

ramffml

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DISCLAIMER: I am not an expert.

okay, disclaimer aside, I thought one of the primary benefits of the AWDH was the ball does not move in the coupler. The triangle plate and chains lock it to the trailer. If you are using the chains to twist the ball, aren't you defeating the purpose (even if only a little)?

Might just be how it's worded; for small deviations, anything where the outside chain still fits (so if you're turned left, and you still have enough room for the right chain to tighten up), you can tighten up the one chain first and as you do that it pulls the plate straight. Once both chains are tight with the same amount of threads showing, the plate has to be straight and that does move the ball as you can't straighten the plate without moving the ball it's all tied together.
 

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DISCLAIMER: I am not an expert.

okay, disclaimer aside, I thought one of the primary benefits of the AWDH was the ball does not move in the coupler. The triangle plate and chains lock it to the trailer. If you are using the chains to twist the ball, aren't you defeating the purpose (even if only a little)?

Don't drop the coupler on the ball. Honestly, I can turn my plate by hand to make small adjustments if needed. When you're not coupled the plate will move, albeit it's pretty tight. If it's a big adjustment I use the chain to make it.
 

runamuck

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the regular ole Husky centerline WDH works fine for me when towing our 28' 6000# travel trailer.
 
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ramffml

ramffml

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the regular ole Husky centerline WDH works fine for me when towing our 28' 6000# travel trailer.

Good to hear, but it was horrible for me. Seems to be really dependent on each individual setup (trailer length/weight and weight in the truck etc).
 

runamuck

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yas every trailer is set up different so getting the kinks out takes a little experimentation. ours is a rear kitchen so not a lot of tongue wt. and also has spread axles so maybe a little larger stance than some. the drawback is the axles are too far apart for any of those stabilizing devices so it's hard to eliminate the wiggle when camping. not to mention my 120# wife walks heel first...
 

2019RamInSC

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"there is this giant fat man bobbin up and down on the back of my bumper and it makes towing nauseous."
Had that problem usually when hitting the joints coming up on and leaving bridges. And other uneven spots in the road. BOB would rear his ugly butt and the rear of truck would porpoise 2-4 times depending on the severity of the bump. I fixed the problem with Rancho Adjustable Shocks on the rear. Now, I get one smaller dip and no more BOB. I set the shocks to 7 for towing and 3 for every day driving. Works for me.
Using Equal‑i‑zer hitch.
YMMV
 
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