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2020PW, nowhere did I say I was lookin for a payout, comprehend a little more next time. No one else has shared this so figured I’d share. At least it’s finally getting some attention.
Seen mention of royal purple filters. I’m switching to Puralator Boss once I finish my OLDER RP filters. I posted about it a while ago why I’m making the switch and wouldn’t recommend them now: Thread 'DO NOT BUY RP 10-47!!!!'
Any idea how long these cases can drag on for and what a potential resolution may be? Any way to track the case?
Yes they had the perfect filter, then for no known reason they downsized, and now those filters are throwing codes in many trucks and ticking in others, when people move to the larger filter, hooray no codes and "sometimes" no ticking. This exact thing has to do with the ticking in this thread, if you read the first post instead of just the title, op wanted a broad discussion.You ever think think about using a OEM filter. Why can’t anyone comprehend that a company designed an engine to operate in a specific manner and conditions, they found a oil filter that accomplished this and hence why it’s a OEM oil filter.
Yes they had the perfect filter, then for no known reason they downsized, and now those filters are throwing codes in many trucks and ticking in others, when people move to the larger filter, hooray no codes and "sometimes" no ticking.
I’m beyond **** when it comes to my truck. So poor maintenance is not an issue. Not when it happens right after one oil change that is under 6k miles on full synthetic. There’s an issue with the hemi and everyone knows it. Some people get Monday and Friday builds and have issues when others don’t.Have 125,000 on mine ... regular oil changes at the dealer (4-5,000 miles). Send samples to Brookstone labs. Last result was "another perfect report."
Thinking most problems are poor maintenance ...
You're correct. If you search older threads you'll see complaints about initial tick on cold starts on 3rd gen Rams.I'm thinking that the Hemi tick was present long before the MDS was added.
Can you explain in more detail? Are you going in with the filter from the top? Think your method would work with air suspension? I would like to run the larger filter but dang if I can see how to change even the smaller original filter!The smaller filter makes it possible to change from below as the electric steering box is in the way for the big filters. To run the MO-899 size filter I have to reach in from front- radiator back. There is a tunnel/lane the big filters can be taken to reach the oil filter flange.
Get under truck from front. Reach up behind radiator and straight back along right side of engine and above cross member . You have to drain oil with catch that funnels it into drain pan, or a gallon size ziplock around filter.Can you explain in more detail? Are you going in with the filter from the top? Think your method would work with air suspension? I would like to run the larger filter but dang if I can see how to change even the smaller original filter!
In my 05 I used 5w40 Rotella T6 (diesel oil with a gas API ratings at the time) with a pure one oil filter, never did have lifter problems or noise, so wonder if anyone here has tried the newer 5w30 Rotella T6.My 2 cents . I have a 04 Q cab 5.7. I’ve got 287000 Miles on engine . 100000. More on truck . As valve seat dropped on original engine at 161000.replaced with a 50000.mile used engine. Always stock filter. It’s a small filter . Always castrol oil 15-40 . Same as the diesel. That’s what owners manual says. However I place a heavy magnet on the filter .Bought truck with 3 miles on it. I ran 20-50 a few times without issue. I’m in SE Texas (hot). This engine always had a lil tic. As did the original. The stock oil filter seems to work fine. Also my rule of thumb is to change oil at every 7000miles because it holds 7quarts. 1000 miles per quart. Just want to add , replaced thermostat with a 180 to avoid valve seat issue. Also I run castrol oil because in the 90’s amsoil & others had comparison charts comparing oils . & they changed the weights tested against to make it seem there oil was better . Ex. 1 test was 40w but 2nd test was changed to 30w. 1 was thermo break down the other was viscosity .
I always go in from the front when changing the oil filter. I pull up on my ramps, block the rear tire just for added safety and go under the front of the truck on the right side, looking to rear of truck it would be on your left side. With your back facing the radiator and looking towards the filter, you have a direct shot to the oil filter. Hope this helpsCan you explain in more detail? Are you going in with the filter from the top? Think your method would work with air suspension? I would like to run the larger filter but dang if I can see how to change even the smaller original filter!
I use Z Max and have for many years. I believe that it is some of the best stuff,in my opinion. I use it in my’14 Ram,my’13 Chrysler 300 and my’92 Nissan 4x4 which has 245k on it. I put it in every oil change. You can get jugs on Amazon,or just buy the small containers at your auto parts store or Walmart.What are the additives that one can purchase over the counter to help with the potential issues? I've run pennzoil ultra platinum from day 1 bc I read early on that it had a good amount of moly in the oil. No idea if its true and would be curious to know if there are some after market additives that can be added to my oil and oil changes to help.