8 speed swap

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Wild one

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Sounds like Russell has the paddles and trans brake figured out now.Looks like you either need a 1320 Challengers TCM or an actual transmission from a 1320. Maybe i should open bidding up on my wifes 1320 transmission,lol:Big Laugh:



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· 13m ·

Looks like this guys done it. 4500 may snap some parts. Lol
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Sound German Automotive

9h ·
I am ready to release the 1320 Challenger Trans Brake feature to be used with the swap kit. The requirements are the 2019 1320 calibration has to be installed on the 8hp70 TCM and activated in configuration data, This means if you have a drop out 1320 transmission it will work. If someone other than myself changes the calibration then it will not work unless it is plugged into a 1320 Challenger or they know how to configure the TCM. I can do this portion remotely but tool rental and a charge for the time will be required. PCS Paddle shifters, and the latest firmware on the TCM-2600. There is an additional mode added for activating Drag Mode via digital inputs the same as Sport and Track are done currently. Prices break down as follows. TCM-2600 firmware update is no charge. 1320 calibration installed on your 8hp70 TCM is the same 150.00 for flashing any factory calibration. I also will open the entry/exit RPM to idle to 4500 RPM. The factory settings are 1500-2500. Otherwise this is a factory file at this price. Additional changes can be made with HPT and of course I offer custom calibration work if needed. Remotely and in person. Paddle shifters range from 650.00 to 750.00. Options are Polished or Black and with or without display. 5/6 and 9 bolt aftermarket steering wheels only. Cheapest are black with no display. Most expensive is polished with display. The 1320 cluster is not required, but if used will show data the same as a production car. There is also an output to activate a 2 step that can also double as an indicator trigger to let you know that the brake is active. This feature will work the same as a production 1320 Challenger. Foot on the brake pedal. Pull both paddles. Release one paddle to set the Trans brake. Release brake pedal. And release last paddle to launch. You have no more than 15 seconds to set the brake with both paddles pulled. And there is a timer that prevents you from sitting on the trans brake to long.
 

1SLwLS1

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Does anyone know which wire to ground on the original 6 speed shifter harness to be able to remove the key?
 

emjohn4

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On my 2012....Yellow/Blue to Black/Green. I connected/grounded mine where the console wiring harness connects to the dash harness, on the console side of the harness.
 

1SLwLS1

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On my 2012....Yellow/Blue to Black/Green. I connected/grounded mine where the console wiring harness connects to the dash harness, on the console side of the harness.
Thanks, I will compare colors and give that a try this afternoon.
 

1SLwLS1

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On my 2012....Yellow/Blue to Black/Green. I connected/grounded mine where the console wiring harness connects to the dash harness, on the console side of the harn

Thanks, I will compare colors and give that a try this afternoon.
It worked perfectly, thank you!

I just flashed the modified tune from Russell (he modified my hp tuners file) and something isn't working right. The gear indicators on the dash are yellow (instead of the usual white) and I am getting the service electronic braking system and service airbag system as if something isn't right. Plus all (4) lights on the 8 speed shifter dial are lit up. It doesn't even turn over, just nothing.

Now, this truck hasn't been running since December of 21 and before I flashed the tune, I was getting similar errors on the EVIC and the gear indicators were all yellow as well, I had assumed from all of the original 6 speed transmission harnesses being disconnected as when I tried to start it, the EVIC stated Transmission Not In Park, but figured that flashing Russell's modified tune, would've cleared all that up.

The battery is new
I didn't get any errors flashing the tune (have flashed tune several times - always takes about 30 seconds)
I have constant 12v hooked up
I have accessory 12v hooked up (fuse 99)
Brake input is hooked up (from camper third brake light wire-purple/white )
8 speed shifter dial is hooked up
Transmission harness is plugged into transmission
Harness is plugged into SGA computer
The downloaded PCS software shows the brake input and TCC unlock when I step on the brake (as instructions state) and it shows in park
The driveshaft crossmember was welded in - the shop that did the mechanical completion was nervous as the windows were acting funky as if maybe he didn't disconnect battery when welding but he charged it and was relieved - it is likely he fried something welding on the crossmember (assuming he actually did disconnect battery)?

Thoughts?
 

emjohn4

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I think the key to your issue surrounds the fact that the errors on the EVIC were there before the 8HP70.

It sounds like, perhaps, the original error in the PCM (or supporting wiring?) was causing you troubles. Swapping in an aftermarket solution rarely solves those 'base level' issues, and in my experience, just makes them worse until the base problem is resolved.

What caused the truck to stop running in December 2021? Was it a 54RFE or 66RFE?
 

1SLwLS1

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The issues were not there whenever I dropped the truck off with the shop last December, other than the blown OD in the 65RFE, the EVIC was working like normal. Whenever I towed it home last week, all of those issues were present, I ASSuMEd because several of the connectors of the transmission were not plugged in.
 

emjohn4

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Ah, gotcha. That makes more sense.

Double check the CAN wiring. If it's going to the OBD2 connector, it won't work and might cause the error in the EVIC with the gears all lit up oddly.
 

1SLwLS1

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Checked all fuses in the power distribution center, all have continuity. I checked all of the relays in the PDC, they all have 80-108 ohms of resistance.

I did solve the airbag system, I had forgotten to plug in the connectors on the bottom of the driver's seat (doh), as it is just laying tilted back while I work on all of this.

Still have the service electronic braking system, yellow gear indicators, and no crank. I will keep digging and checking. I also had the purple connector plugged into the star connector with the yellow wires - I have (2) of those star connectors under the dash, tried them both with no change.

If anyone has any ideas, let me know, please!
 

Evguy1

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I'm also fighting something similar only different. Are you using Russell's module and harness or just reflashed your ECU to recognize the ZF8? When I was pulling my hair out trying to get mine going last Nov Russell was amazing with his help and knowledge. He spent most of a Friday night remote logged into my system making changes and he did get it working. Are you using the rotary shifter? That was one of my problems and he had to change the firmware to recognize the shifter.
 

1SLwLS1

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I'm also fighting something similar only different. Are you using Russell's module and harness or just reflashed your ECU to recognize the ZF8? When I was pulling my hair out trying to get mine going last Nov Russell was amazing with his help and knowledge. He spent most of a Friday night remote logged into my system making changes and he did get it working. Are you using the rotary shifter? That was one of my problems and he had to change the firmware to recognize the shifter.

I am using his harness. I am definitely going to contact him, just wanted to hit the low hanging fruit first. In our correspondence, he mentioned most were using the charger shifters instead of the dial, and had to charge a small additional fee for the dial shifter connector on the harness. That was last September so it is entirely probable I need different firmware for the dial shifter. Thank you!
 

Evguy1

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This is only applicable if you are also using his PCS shift module. Are you seeing any codes when you scan the system?
 

1SLwLS1

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This is only applicable if you are also using his PCS shift module. Are you seeing any codes when you scan the system?

Yes, the one that requires the software download and using the 3-wire-to-USB cable to hookup to the laptop. I was able to monitor but after flashing back and forth for a while, the laptop battery died and I ran out of time last night. I emailed Russell about your solution this morning to see if rings a bell and will check for codes later this evening.
 

Evguy1

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Are you getting any codes from the engine ECU? is the check engine light on?
 

1SLwLS1

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P0456 from EVAP leak (small) (permanent)
P0562 Low Voltage (permanent)
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio (permanent)
P0750 Shift Solenoid A (permanent)
P0882 TCM Power Input Signal Low (permanent)
 

Evguy1

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Most of those look old, maybe from the last trans.
 

1SLwLS1

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That is what I am hoping and with a few heat cycles, will be resolved but, gotta get it cranked first.

I am going back and forth with Russell now. Hopefully he can point me in the right direction and I will update with resolution, just incase anyone comes along.
 

Evguy1

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Yes please do, so many people never come back with the solution. So frustrating.
 

emjohn4

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I am using his harness. I am definitely going to contact him, just wanted to hit the low hanging fruit first. In our correspondence, he mentioned most were using the charger shifters instead of the dial, and had to charge a small additional fee for the dial shifter connector on the harness. That was last September so it is entirely probable I need different firmware for the dial shifter. Thank you!
I'm curious what he says about the firmware.

I've got the dial shifter, but have also tried the charger shifter by changing plugs only (i.e. no firmware change).

I do get an occasional error on my setup where I start it and the A/C and cruise won't work. If I restart it, they'll work fine. Happens about every 9th or 10th start. But if I put it in neutral, after starting, the A/C will stop working and cruise won't work again until a restart.

I think it has something to do with a CAN message to the 2012 BCM simply confusing the system.
 

1SLwLS1

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So I found the issue with one of the messages is with the ECM tune from hp tuners - it still has all of the 65RFE modifications affecting it, kicking on the "SERVICE ELECTRONIC BRAKING SYSTEM" message. I flashed a previous version tune before all of the 65RFE modifications from my tuner and that message is gone. So that is one issue resolved.

The next thing is Russell gave me a new firmware to flash to his computer, which did turn off the yellow PRND, and allowed to me to crank the truck, without any warning messages. The bigger issue is that the TCM is not responding. We verified the dial shifter works by unplugging it, powering up the truck, verifying that the software monitoring the transmission showed N and then plugging in the shifter and watching it change over to P. We have CAN communication, as the EVIC shows -58F for the transmission from the SGA PCS, but the TCM in the transmission is not responding or powering on (as obviously it is not -58F among other things).

So I am going to run a continuity test on the wiring harness, once that proves okay, then the only thing left is a busted TCM. The transmission I bought was supposedly from a 2015 with 46K miles. I suppose that the TCM could be fried somehow, but I am going to guess that the entire transmission is probably busted, that makes me 0/2 for used transmissions on eBay (previous being a used 66RFE I attempted to graft in earlier in this project, about 1.5 years ago, right after I installed the 392 and blew up the original 65RFE).

So I am going to test the wiring on the harness and make sure everything is good, but we're pretty sure that its okay, but after that, what would you do?
1. Would you replace the TCM/valve-body in the used transmission and risk that everything else is okay, I could do this in my driveway for probably $300-500 depending on what I find if I drop the transmission pan.
2. Purchase another used 8HP70? I could at least take the SGA harness/PCM with me and test that the TCM of the next transmission responds prior to purchasing (assuming it is local) as all I need is 12V, ground, and to plug it in to transmission. This option is a bit harder as we sold our house a while back trying to find some land and are in the process of building but I am in a rental townhouse for another year and don't really want to attempt to replace the transmission without my garage/shop setup. I also cannot take it back to the shop that just did the mechanical swap for me as he had some personal loss over the holidays which is what took so long to get the transmission installed originally and has since stopped taking new work and will soon close up shop.
3. *ATTEMPT* to find a good local transmission builder that will rebuild the transmission and replace the TCM/valve-body. I think this will be harder to find one willing to work with me since they won't be able to do their normal diagnostics and setup as this is a swapped vehicle and will require special protocols since they cannot just plug into normal OBD, etc., most likely without a warranty too.
4. Other??

I have basically been without my truck for 3 months shy of 2 years, that 392 engine has less than 2,000 miles on it over that time, with a majority of that spent using it for short trips in 1st-3rd when 4th was broken in the rebuilt 65RFE. I am probably $8K into failed transmission solutions (66RFE, multiple R&Is on 65RFE, busted 8HP70, rebuilt 65RFE, etc.). I really don't want to spend a fortune on where I go next but I really need it to work, wife will probably leave me once she figures out I have 3 worthless transmissions in the garage.
 

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