Rear differential pinion gear nut remove for 2012 Ram 1500 5.7 4x4

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BadAzp

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I bought a 1 1/8 socket today, it's too small; should read your reply first and then shopping :) the store has 1 1/8 ,?? and 1 1/4, according your experience, the 1 1/4 is still too small, thank you, try this again
But remember i said i have a dana 60 on an 05 srt10, and dont know all of the possible axles/nut combinations.
Just make sure its snug and bottoms out against the washer or you risk rounding it off and really ******** yourself
 

DodgeDude99

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A pinion nut isn’t torqued to a torque spec, it’s torque to rotational drag. The only way to do that is removing the carrier from the housing.
Counting threads is ******** and doesn’t work unless you’re putting lipstick on a pig and just dumping the truck.

If you never worked on rear ends before, then take it to a pro.
 

Dusty

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Pinion nut tightening torque:

201 ft. lbs. - 9.25/9.5 inch ZF axles

210 ft. lbs. - 9.25 inch AAM/ Corporate axles

Just my unsolicited opinion, but I would use a new crush sleeve and new pinion nut when reassembling.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 70505 miles
 
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Philip Gao

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thank you guys, so many idea here, I'm wondering if do not take out this nut, but it still leak fluid :(
I have a wrench can get 200 foot...
 

Wild one

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A pinion nut isn’t torqued to a torque spec, it’s torque to rotational drag. The only way to do that is removing the carrier from the housing.
Counting threads is ******** and doesn’t work unless you’re putting lipstick on a pig and just dumping the truck.

If you never worked on rear ends before, then take it to a pro.
The 9.25 AAM and ZF diffs don't have a removable carrier . How the hell is anybody supposed to learn anything,if they don't try.
 

DILLIGAF

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If you never worked on rear ends before, then take it to a pro.

Did my front and rear gear swaps, with a gen 3 front diff swap myself last year. Zero issues. Not hard at all . I will never pay anyone to work on my truck as I dont sit down to p!ss.

Well I might in a few years as old age is catching up to me...lol..

 
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pacofortacos

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thank you guys, so many idea here, I'm wondering if do not take out this nut, but it still leak fluid :(
I have a wrench can get 200 foot...
Are you leaking fluid out of the pinion seal? Is that the reason, you want to pull the nut?

If that is the reason, then you have to remove the nut and replace the seal to repair it. You will also need a crush sleeve or sleeve eliminator kit.
I would also really look closely at the flange, if it has a groove in it where the seal rides, consider replacing it also.

Before removing the nut, have the truck up on stands/lift, remove tires and brakes and measure the torque (in inch/lbs) that it takes to turn the differential - using a torque wrench and socket on the pinion nut. See if that measurement is in spec.
 
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Philip Gao

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Bad news
1) The 1 1/16 socket is too small to match the nut
2) The 1 5/16 socket is too big outer round to match the base ring, must record here, let other people not wrong again:
1654445167076.jpeg1654445685973.png
A38.5mm B:35.4mm C:46mm
1654446722568.png
the flange ring inner: 45mm, nut edge top point 36mm nut edge low point 33mm
So the socket outer edge can't over 45mm for the 1 5/16, the 1 1/16 socket is too small for the A,C value
The other choice is only 1 2/16(1 1/8), 1 3/16, 1 4/16(1 1/4)

The good news, I maybe make mistake, the pinion leak is not because the drive shaft U-joint, it's not so bad, I have prepare 3 set tools for change the u-joint, but I don't need to remove the nut for the big project, It should be change a hose of $10; the leak happened in the same moment when the hose fall down and broken
it called differential breathe went hose: video
1654447504069.jpeg

Thank you guys, love you, be in Peace!
 

DodgeDude99

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The 9.25 AAM and ZF diffs don't have a removable carrier . How the hell is anybody supposed to learn anything,if they don't try.
Actually they do have a removable carrier. A carrier is what the ring gear bolts to. That has to be removed in order to be able to measure the preload on the pinion bearings.

It’s not “how are they supposed to learn anything” it’s a matter of not owning the correct tools to do the job.
 

DodgeDude99

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Did my front and rear gear swaps, with a gen 3 front diff swap myself last year. Zero issues. Not hard at all . I will never pay anyone to work on my truck as I dont sit down to p!ss.

Well I might in a few years as old age is catching up to me...lol..


It has nothing to do with sitting down to *** or a sick swinging contest. 99% of the guys on here I’d bet don’t have all the tools to actually swap gears and do it successfully.

But I hear you on the old age. I swapped the valve body on my 68, I needed a day to recover, I’m only 47.
 
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Philip Gao

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Again, thank your guys! Everyone here is welcome! I know the world is close the end, it doesn't matter your guys age, our soul is more long than the earth, it's the scripts:
Ephesians 1.4 just as He chose us in Him before the foundation of the world, that we should be holy and without blame before Him in love,
I don't want to share the war information here, but it's really close, someone should be raptured in the recently years...Hope everyone here have prepared for the moment when it happened.
Back to the truck nut, I didn't expect from one nut we have so many talking, let's continue. Because I have to remove the nut, I will record the step here, your guys please give me advice to finish it:
Currently:
1)two rear parking brake assemblies replaced, include two new parking cables
2)ABS speed tone ring (rear left) replaced, ABS sensor rear left side replaced, ABS control model repaired, finally no ABS waring light again.
3) front/rear drive shaft, the front drive shaft replaced a new one; the rear one replaced two U-joints
4) replace all front differential fluid, rear differential fluid, transfer case fluid
5) rear differential vent breather replaced
Then, after 300 km running, the rear differential fluid leaked from the pinion seal and left rear axle seal, I have to try to remove the nut now, I have bought a new nut and all the seals.

Plan to do:
1) disconnect the rear drive shaft from the rear differential, measure the rotation torque value when the parking brake is released and raised
2) re-open the rear differential cover, remove the lock pin, remove the left rear axle, replace the seal and bearing. install the axle back
3) remove the differential pinion nut, replace the pinion seal and install a new nut, measure the rotation torque make sure it is close the previous value(I guess it is about 12 ~ 15 foot pound, from this video :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN2C8xF7D_8)
Be in Peace
 

DILLIGAF

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ring-gear-04-jpg.218383
 

Jeepwalker

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If you're going to replace one axle bearing/seal, you might as well do the other. Because it's probably worn just as much. At least do both seals ...for sure. Is there a lot of up/down 'freeplay' on the outer axle? If so, it could be a worn axle shaft. They ride on the roller bearing like a GM. In that case, you're better off replacing the axle too with a new one ...because just replacing the bearing probably won't fix a worn shaft. But we're getting ahead of ourselves here ..you haven't seen the axle yet.

Pull both axles and check for worn shafts. If good, then new bearings/seals. If the outer axle boss is worn, count the splines and measurements (just in case) ....as you 'might' need them to order a replacement. I wouldn't use anything other than an OEM Mopar axle & pinion seals. Compare to aftermarket and you'll see what I mean.
 

Jeepwalker

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If you have access to a torch or welder. I would encourage fabbing up a 'holder' for the pinion. Or you could get a really stout piece of 1/4" x 3" or 4" and drill holes in one end for the pinion bolts, then cut a hole in the center which to insert the nut. That's a lot less stressful for torquing the pinion nut. I have a big bar with several holes I've drilled to fit various differentials (add to it each time i do a different one). Just a thought.
 

GTyankee

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several times the Pinion Nut Size has been mentioned
chances are it is one of the 2 mentioned

The drives have to be 1/2" or 3/4"

There is another dimension that you may have to consider with the socket, will a THICK Wall Socket fit all the way in the recessed area ?
OR
do you need a THIN Wall Socket ?

Without seeing the vehicle for myself, i won't be making any more suggestions, because they would only guesses
 
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