Differential fluids?

ADWarlock20 · Jun 2, 2022

If you have the BW44-44 TC, you should be fine with that one as long as the label on the bottle says pre-2016 44-44

HangmanNY · Jun 2, 2022

Has anyone has success with the ravenol transfer case fluid?

Hemi395 · Jun 2, 2022

HangmanNY said:
Has anyone has success with the ravenol transfer case fluid? View attachment 494536

I believe that is for the 2016 and newer 44-44s, Borgwarner changed the clutch packs and the fluid requirements changed, thats why FCA/Stellantis changed the fluid for 2016+.

@Rod Knock knows more about the specifics of this than I do, my truck is a 2013 so the Amsoil MVATF works great for mine.

Oh and to answer your original question, Redline gear oil and Amsoil Severe Gear are about the best diff fluids you can buy.

HangmanNY · Jun 2, 2022

Do you have the BW44-44 transfer case? And has that Amsoil product worked well with no problems?

Hemi395 · Jun 2, 2022

HangmanNY said:
Do you have the BW44-44 transfer case? And has that Amsoil product worked well with no problems?

Yessir, I've been running the Amsoil MVATF in my 44-44 for over 2 years now, 0 issues

Rod Knock · Jun 2, 2022

HangmanNY said:
Do you have the BW44-44 transfer case? And has that Amsoil product worked well with no problems?

Your RAM is a 2015, so you can use any Dexron III, TES-389 or TES-295 type fluid. The list is huge. Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, Delvac 1 ATF, AMSOIL MV ATF, Red Line D4, Shell Spirax S6 295, and so on. The Ravenol BW44 is for 2016 and newer transfer cases that shipped with Mobilfluid LT from the factory.

quickster2 · Jun 3, 2022

HangmanNY said:
Has anyone has success with the ravenol transfer case fluid? View attachment 494536

Not with my truck but when I had a Porsche Cayenne S Ravenol was 1 of the fluids of choice for many fluids on the Porsche forums. The transfer case fluid was especially well reviewed as the X-fer case was a weak link on these units.

HangmanNY · Jun 4, 2022

Hemi395 said:
Yessir, I've been running the Amsoil MVATF in my 44-44 for over 2 years now, 0 issues

I ordered several quarts of that a couple of days ago. This way I have more for the next time. Thanks for all that great information!

HEMIMANN · Jun 6, 2022

Not that it'd break the bank to use top lubes, but differentials are pretty robust - takes a lot to fail one. Most important to me is to change ~ 50,000 miles or 4 years due to moisture contamination thru the expansion air vent. Oil will start getting milky / emulsified. Water isn't a lubricant, and rusts.

I didn't see any real need to go to top of the line lubes (Red Line or Amsoil) for the gear boxes. I went with Mobil Delvac 1 75W-90. Made for Class 8 truck differentials (Eaton, usually) without limited slip friction modifier additives. My rear axle is AAM with Trac-Rite Torsen anti-spin (all gears - no clutch packs).

Whiskey13 · Jun 6, 2022

I use Amsoil 75W110 Front and 75W140 Rear, I live in a very warm area and two many trailers, just like the added protection for hot climate

HEMIMANN · Jun 6, 2022

Good points, @Whiskey13 - I tow moderate, only occasionally, and not hot all year. Wish more people thought about their specific applications and used some vehicle sense to optimize their configurations and maintenance.

We aren't all experts on everything either, so glad Forum is here to assist. I've learned quite a bit.

HangmanNY · Jun 11, 2022

Today I changed both front and rear differential fluids in my ‘15 ram 1500. Also the transfer case. I just passed 90,000 miles.

I got the rear tires up on rhino ramps. And I put the front of the car on 6 ton jack stands. I got the truck pretty level front to rear.

The original front differential fluid came out clear and looked pretty good. I used the redline 75W90 gear oil in that. It took about a quart and a half. Is that normal for the front differential?

By the way I let everything drain for a long time.

The next thing I did was the transfer case. again I let everything drain for at least an hour. That only took about a quart +4 ounces of the Amsoil (multi vehicle signature ATF) that normal?

Lastly the rear differential fluid looked very brownish. I let that one drain for a long time. That took about 2 1/2 quarts of the Redline 75w140. I was concerned about the brownish color of the original rear differential fluid. Is that normal for 90,000 miles?

Monday I’m going to do the transmission. I know that I have to get the transmission pan level which means to raise the rear wheels. I’m going to be replacing it with the PPE transmission pan.

Going forward I’m going to be changing these fluids regularly. Any advice on when I should be changing the differential fluids and the transfer case again? I plan on doing the transmission every 40,000 miles going forward. Unfortunately I bought into the “Dodge BS” about these ZF transmissions not needing fluid changes.

I still have the vehicle up on the ramps and jacks stands. I haven’t driven it yet because I plan on doing the transmission tomorrow.

Thanks again for all of the helpful advice. I posted pictures of the fluids that I used (thanks to the helpful advice here). Once again please let me know if the amount of fluids that were drained out is normal?

Thanks again!

HEMIMANN · Jun 11, 2022

HangmanNY said:
Today I changed both front and rear differential fluids in my ‘15 ram 1500. Also the transfer case. I just passed 90,000 miles.

I got the rear tires up on rhino ramps. And I put the front of the car on 6 ton jack stands. I got the truck pretty level front to rear.

The original front differential fluid came out clear and looked pretty good. I used the redline 75W90 gear oil in that. It took about a quart and a half. Is that normal for the front differential?

By the way I let everything drain for a long time.

The next thing I did was the transfer case. again I let everything drain for at least an hour. That only took about a quart +4 ounces of the Amsoil (multi vehicle signature ATF) that normal?

Lastly the rear differential fluid looked very brownish. I let that one drain for a long time. That took about 2 1/2 quarts of the Redline 75w140. I was concerned about the brownish color of the original rear differential fluid. Is that normal for 90,000 miles?

Monday I’m going to do the transmission. I know that I have to get the transmission pan level which means to raise the rear wheels. I’m going to be replacing it with the PPE transmission pan.

Going forward I’m going to be changing these fluids regularly. Any advice on when I should be changing the differential fluids and the transfer case again? I plan on doing the transmission every 40,000 miles going forward. Unfortunately I bought into the “Dodge BS” about these ZF transmissions not needing fluid changes.

I still have the vehicle up on the ramps and jacks stands. I haven’t driven it yet because I plan on doing the transmission tomorrow.

Thanks again for all of the helpful advice. I posted pictures of the fluids that I used (thanks to the helpful advice here). Once again please let me know if the amount of fluids that were drained out is normal?

Thanks again!

Good for you! Sounds like you did a thorough job with top quality lubricants.

I'll try to give you some perspective from an old engineer:
1) Yes, that's about the right amount for a front differential. Yes, it's not unusual to not see much change in the oil since this box isn't used much for most people. Frankly, the only concern (unless you're snow plowing regularly, or other similar loaded use) is moisture contamination thru the breather tube. This box can go 100k miles, 50k miles if you live in warm, coastal area, or 4 years.

2) Same applies to your transfer case.

3) Rear differential oil is different in that it is in constant use, and also takes variable loads - if you tow full time or are a contractor, the gears get heavily loaded and oxidize the oil faster, consume the EP additive faster, and wear the limited slip clutches faster (if equipped). All that adds up to oil changes at 50k if heavy use, 100k if light consumer use (empty truck). Again, no more than 100k miles or 4 years due to atmospheric moisture thru the vent tube. I use 75W-90 because I don't tow heavy, or often. If I towed a 5th wheel all summer or livestock trailer all year, I'd use 75W-140. Most differential gear oil comes with limited slip friction modifier additive. It's ok for non-LS axles except torsen all-gear, which are slower to engage due to LS additive. I have torsen gears, I use Mobil Delvac 1. Red Line & Mopar also offer non-LS gear oils. Amsoil does not (confirmed with their rep.).

4) ZF transmissions are very good, but ridiculous for maintenance. You are correct - they should have maintenance. I'd say app. the same intervals as the other gearboxes - 50k miles for heavy use, 100k miles for light use. Some guys have had some slippage using Red Line ATF and suggest Amsoil Multi Vehicle ATF instead. Important to get rid of your oil cooler thermostat if you have one. Otherwise I'd change oil sooner. I changed @ 35k miles and oil didn't appear or smell good. Did not get it tested, but I got rid of thermostat at same time.

HangmanNY · Jun 11, 2022

“Important to get rid of your oil cooler thermostat if you have one. Otherwise I'd change oil sooner. I changed @ 35k miles and oil didn't appear or smell good. Did not get it tested, but I got rid of thermostat at same time.”

How do I find out if I have an oil cooler thermostat? We have towed a 5’ x 10’ enclosed trailer occasionally during the past 15,000 miles. We have made several trips back and forth from NY State to Florida.

Wild one · Jun 11, 2022

HangmanNY said:
“Important to get rid of your oil cooler thermostat if you have one. Otherwise I'd change oil sooner. I changed @ 35k miles and oil didn't appear or smell good. Did not get it tested, but I got rid of thermostat at same time.”

How do I find out if I have an oil cooler thermostat? We have towed a 5’ x 10’ enclosed trailer occasionally during the past 15,000 miles.

If your truck has the 8 speed,you have a transmission thermostat. Search Caulk04's name for his 8 speed thermostat bypass

HangmanNY · Jun 11, 2022

HangmanNY said:
“Important to get rid of your oil cooler thermostat if you have one. Otherwise I'd change oil sooner. I changed @ 35k miles and oil didn't appear or smell good. Did not get it tested, but I got rid of thermostat at same time.”

How do I find out if I have an oil cooler thermostat? We have towed a 5’ x 10’ enclosed trailer occasionally during the past 15,000 miles. We have made several trips back and forth from NY State to Florida.

HEMIMANN said:
Good for you! Sounds like you did a thorough job with top quality lubricants.

I'll try to give you some perspective from an old engineer:
1) Yes, that's about the right amount for a front differential. Yes, it's not unusual to not see much change in the oil since this box isn't used much for most people. Frankly, the only concern (unless you're snow plowing regularly, or other similar loaded use) is moisture contamination thru the breather tube. This box can go 100k miles, 50k miles if you live in warm, coastal area, or 4 years.

2) Same applies to your transfer case.

3) Rear differential oil is different in that it is in constant use, and also takes variable loads - if you tow full time or are a contractor, the gears get heavily loaded and oxidize the oil faster, consume the EP additive faster, and wear the limited slip clutches faster (if equipped). All that adds up to oil changes at 50k if heavy use, 100k if light consumer use (empty truck). Again, no more than 100k miles or 4 years due to atmospheric moisture thru the vent tube. I use 75W-90 because I don't tow heavy, or often. If I towed a 5th wheel all summer or livestock trailer all year, I'd use 75W-140. Most differential gear oil comes with limited slip friction modifier additive. It's ok for non-LS axles except torsen all-gear, which are slower to engage due to LS additive. I have torsen gears, I use Mobil Delvac 1. Red Line & Mopar also offer non-LS gear oils. Amsoil does not (confirmed with their rep.).

4) ZF transmissions are very good, but ridiculous for maintenance. You are correct - they should have maintenance. I'd say app. the same intervals as the other gearboxes - 50k miles for heavy use, 100k miles for light use. Some guys have had some slippage using Red Line ATF and suggest Amsoil Multi Vehicle ATF instead. Important to get rid of your oil cooler thermostat if you have one. Otherwise I'd change oil sooner. I changed @ 35k miles and oil didn't appear or smell good. Did not get it tested, but I got rid of thermostat at same time.

Since I didn’t want to take a chance on any other fluids I wound up buying 7 quarts of the lifeguard 8 ZF transmission fluid. I know that I’m only going to probably get 5 quarts out on a gravity drain. As I was told by a friend you never get all the fluid out of the torque converter.

tomorrow I plan on removing the old pan and draining the transmission. as I understand the PPE aluminum transmission pan holds an additional quart of fluid. Is that correct?

I will probably buy another 4 quarts soon. Then after driving around I’ll drain out the fluid and add some more fresh lifeguard 8 fluid.

I read someone else’s comments saying that I should try to remove the spacers from the original transmission pan and put them in the holes for the new PPE transmission pan. Is that what a lot of guys normally do?

Have people had any problems using the Amsoil Multi vehicle ATF in the ZF 8 speed transmissions? I would like to know for the next time I plan on doing a fluid and filter change on the new PPE pan.

Thanks for any clarification on this.

Midknight · Jun 11, 2022

Yes, you will transfer the bolt sleeves to the PPE pan. The PPE is deeper and holds a quart more they claim. I had to unbolt and jack my trans to clear the install of the new pan. You’ll know by how easy the old one slips out if you’re going to need space.

HangmanNY · Jun 11, 2022

I recently saw a video of a dodge dealer mechanic saying that they have approved the Valvoline MaxLife ATF fluid for the ZF 8 speed transmissions.

Has anyone tried using this and what were the results? I’d like to know going forward if there are any good alternatives to the Mopar or Lifeguard 8 transmission fluids?

HangmanNY · Jun 12, 2022

I decided I’m going to do the transmission tomorrow. I have The rear wheels jacked up about 8 7/8”.

I wound up using a torpedo level. I had a smaller metal level but I couldn’t see the fluid/bubble at the top. I found a couple of spots that I thought I got an accurate reading.

I looked at the bolts on the pan and I can see that one of them directly above the exhaust pipe is going to be difficult. I have to pick up some sort of low clearance ratchet that holds the correct bit. And I’m surprised they designed the drain pan plug directly over the exhaust!

I have no worries about getting the original transmission pan out. However I did watch a couple of the videos where they loosened those three bolts. Then put a piece of wood on top of a jack and raised it about 3/4 of an inch to get the new PPE transmission pan in. Is that normally what gets done with the 5.7L?

Please let me know if it looks like I’ve got the correct spots to get an accurate level reading?

PoMansRam · Jun 12, 2022

@HangmanNY

Sorry if I missed it. Does your truck have the "auto 4x4" option or just on/off 4x4 buttons. I always get confused as to the transfer case fluid requirements/recommendations between the two. I thought they were both 44-44s. My plan was to use Maxlife ATF in the TC of my 2019 Ram 1500 classic (w/out auto 4x4). I plan to use maxlife atf in my ZF8 as well when the time comes.

Differential fluids?

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