Occasional stalling without code

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WASzuRAUCHEN

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Hey Guys,

I have a 2012 1500 hemi 5.7 with about 120k miles on it. It drives ok as long as I don’t floor it, which is a problem for all the obvious reasons. If I floor it, it will stall the moment I slow down and come to a halt. Sometimes it just stalls at a red light. Most of the time, it starts right back up.
Problem is, it doesn’t throw codes other than a U0100 active.
I also noticed it idles between 550 and 600 RPM, as if it’s would be breathing hard.
Just had it few weeks sitting at a workshop that supposedly checked all wiring, without success.
Any best guesses?
 

18CrewDually

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I'd monitor the throttle body and Acc pedal inputs for smooth consistency and correlation with a scan tool or ALPHAOBD. I'd also start with removal & cleaning of the throttle body.
 
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WASzuRAUCHEN

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Thanks. Please help me understand what you mean with smooth consistency?
I changed throttle body 5000miles ago (max) with an aftermarket unit.
 

Wirerat

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I changed throttle body 5000miles ago (max) with an aftermarket unit.
Did you save the old one? Lots of people have issues with non oem throttle body's on these trucks.

Using that aftermarket TB might require a custom tune to get it work right. If it can be made to work right at all.

Good luck.
 
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WASzuRAUCHEN

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Good point. I changed the old not for a sportier one but for one that works. The old one caused a lot of ETC issues which, I thought, resolved after the change. But would a faulty throttle body cause a U0100?
 

Wirerat

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That code is for ecm loosing communications with pcm.

So, I would make sure truck has a good battery. A weak battery on these rolling computers causes all sorts of issues.

Then you may have to start looking at the wiring/connectors.
 
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Burla

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Gas, air, spark. What happens when you floor it, they don't call it give it gas for nothing. Maybe spark, but I would start with air due to the fact it drives fine, only when throttle does it stall. Check air filter, oem? Maybe some oil got in there. In theory, too much fuel and not enough air and you get this condition. Does it stall with rpm even if parked? Try taking air filter off and running same rpm.
 

18CrewDually

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Could also be an erroneous code. Have you cleared it and it came back? Did you do any work lately and disconnected battery or alternator?
 
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WASzuRAUCHEN

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Could also be an erroneous code. Have you cleared it and it came back? Did you do any work lately and disconnected battery or alternator?
Yes, had it 4 weeks at an independent workshop that couldn’t come up with anything. Had it now 2 days at a different workshop with the same result that the workshop gave up and the truck back to me.
Before that, when I got the truck, i had them replace all gaskets and fix a couple oil leaks, replaced throttle body, starter, AC condenser, PCM, oil pressure sensor. In that order. If I were to point to when the issue started I would say after the ac condenser replacement
 
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WASzuRAUCHEN

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Ok. Just spent some time cleaning connections and grounds and I have a feeling it might be the abs module.
Now, I was checking for the module on mopar store but all I can see is 68142314AB and it just doesn’t look like the actual module on top of the pump. Anyone has an opinion on that?
 

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Are you able to read pending codes ?
How many miles on the new manifold?
 
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WASzuRAUCHEN

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I changed the throttle body, not the manifold. Somehow my OBDII reader doesn’t read any codes. But there is and was this U0100
 

18CrewDually

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If you don't have a good scanner or AlphaOBD app & OBDII bluetooth adapter you're just chasing your own ass. Sorry to be blunt but you can't work without knowing all hard set & pending codes.
 

Mister Luck

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If you don't have a good scanner or AlphaOBD app & OBDII bluetooth adapter you're just chasing your own ass. Sorry to be blunt but you can't work without knowing all hard set & pending codes.
I think the O/P may have found half of it..
 
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WASzuRAUCHEN

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If you don't have a good scanner or AlphaOBD app & OBDII bluetooth adapter you're just chasing your own ass. Sorry to be blunt but you can't work without knowing all hard set & pending codes.
Correct. But I know what I am going after since I was told from a two different workshops that it’s reading ‘lost connection’ codes. They are pending. While I don’t have a code reader to constantly read those codes, I know they’re there since the symptoms (ever so slight rough idle and occasional stalling persist).
Both workshops gave it back to me without resolving the issue because it’s, according to them, like looking for the needle in the haystack. So here I am chasing my own ass…
 
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WASzuRAUCHEN

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Weird stuff just happened. I cleaned up lots of connections ytd but it would still have this weird idle bumping between 550 and 600 rpm. This morning after commute I felt fancy and turned on 4wd and 4 low. All engaged, no problem. Put back in 2wd and the weird idle continued.
In the afternoon, on a quick errand, the first time in months, the idle is rock solid at 550rpm. At least at the first traffic light. The second traffic light the truck stalls on me after 2 minutes idle. No surge, nothing. Turned right back on, no hard starting. I drive around the corner, put it in park and again. 10 seconds in, truck stalls. I realized I just passed quarter tank mark.
Off to patrol station, fill to the top. Now rough idle is back but no stalling. Just idled in the parking for 5 minutes and it stays on…
Pretty much sums up my day
 

Mister Luck

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*The fuse block next to the battery has been checked for corrosion like discoloration greenish or white around the edges of the harness connections?

And your battery posts are clean and the clamps are tight?

There’s a wrapped harness that holds about 20 wires coming out of the firewall on the passenger (right) side. It might have the part number label with barcode. That harness if you trace it back to the fuse box (next to the battery) is most of your communications for your CAN buss

If you haven’t already look under the dash on the driverside and trace back to see if there are any jumped wires or connectors as for example if maybe you have an aftermarket gps tracking or alarm system.

ABS is designed to allow braking functions to operate without sacrificing safety your brakes will operate without abs they just wont have the abs valving function I really doubt your ABS wiring is causing your stalling issue.

I would try reseting the throttle body or replacing the aftermarket unit with a salvaged unit or see if someone lend you a known good one to test.

Most gremlins occur with not sanctioned OE equipment parts.

* EDIT: 8/18 highlighted and underlined fix
 
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