Synthetic Oil

did you stock up on the 20-820's for your bypass set up? seams to be a shortage of this filter going on. or should I call it a two filter set up, not really a bypass.

I did not, Amazon says they have the 10-48 RP filter in stock so I was just going to get one of those for now.

I have also read the bigger one might not fit on the 6.4 ? Or did not for some, have not done a lot of research on it yet though.

69GWC said:

I did not, Amazon says they have the 10-48 RP filter in stock so I was just going to get one of those for now.

I have also read the bigger one might not fit on the 6.4 ? Or did not for some, have not done a lot of research on it yet though.

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Seems to not have fit for some. @HEMIMANN cannot fit the thicker 20-820 but can fit the taller 20-500

Try Summit Racing.

69GWC said:

I did not, Amazon says they have the 10-48 RP filter in stock so I was just going to get one of those for now.

I have also read the bigger one might not fit on the 6.4 ? Or did not for some, have not done a lot of research on it yet though.

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The 20-820 fits just fine on my 2019 6.4. I got mine through royal purple direct. It was a while ago...6 months or so, but I ordered 6 of them and they were a few bucks cheaper a piece by ordering 6 and they were shipped fast.

I just looked on royalpurpledirect.com and the 20-820 is $12.99 per filter, or $11.99 if ordered 6 at a time.

Morning @Burla,

Been reading through countless oil, oil filter and lifter threads since my recently developed failed lifter.

To keep to topic; redline is expensiveAF (I know, how expensive is the cost of not having good insurance) just weighing my options before religiously switching to a $14/qt oil for the rest of my truck’s life. (Absurd!)

I saw you said M1 fs 0w40 is super class, thinner, and missing out on ester base and additives.

Is there a better than M1 not as expensive as RL option (for the hemi)?

I’m coming from PUP 5w20 with fram xg10060

I’m planning on installing a hellcat oil pump while I’m in there with the 50psi bypass spring to up idle flow. Still debating if I want to go to rp oil filters. A change to the fram xg10575 for sure at the least.

Thanks everyone for all the documentation in the various threads. Life saver for ignorant owners like myself.

Best ,

James

P.s.

Read another post by burla - gonna just try RL 5w30 rp 20-820 what can it hurt (considering I was planning on spending 2k to do the fix).

Leaving my original post for transparency.

Burla said:

Oils are their strongest when fresh, often just the vii's can keep tick away, once they break you can get tick. Moly plate takes time, how many miles since the oil was fresh? We do know the best combo is redline 5w30 and a rp filter for hemi tick. No, unless you get a p0300 code don't do anything, many times guys spend thousands to still have tick, not kidding. If you have over 1k miles and it still ticks, I'd try redline. One question, for sure the tick was gone for a while? can you upload a video youtube?? if so record it under the engine for at least 2 minutes, warm idle tick...

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Black1500Ram said:

Morning @Burla,

Been reading through countless oil, oil filter and lifter threads since my recently developed failed lifter.

To keep to topic; redline is expensiveAF (I know, how expensive is the cost of not having good insurance) just weighing my options before religiously switching to a $14/qt oil for the rest of my truck’s life. (Absurd!)

I saw you said M1 fs 0w40 is super class, thinner, and missing out on ester base and additives.

Is there a better than M1 not as expensive as RL option (for the hemi)?

I’m coming from PUP 5w20 with fram xg10060

I’m planning on installing a hellcat oil pump while I’m in there with the 50psi bypass spring to up idle flow. Still debating if I want to go to rp oil filters. A change to the fram xg10575 for sure at the least.

Thanks everyone for all the documentation in the various threads. Life saver for ignorant owners like myself.

Best ,

James

P.s.

Read another post by burla - gonna just try RL 5w30 rp 20-820 what can it hurt (considering I was planning on spending 2k to do the fix).

Leaving my original post for transparency.

Click to expand...

Is it verified as in you have mis fire code?

Back in the day they figured out high zinc saved flat tappet cams, that is wasnt a false desire to have high zinc, but an actual need for that cam type. So if you didnt use high zddp oil, you would be replacing that cam at some point. So now you are actually that guy, that guy who had to replace his cam and telling someone you don't want to pay a few more dollars for the "high zinc" option. Just like the guys using high zinc in their flat tappets, the ram forum members who have committed their trucks to redline I don't recall a single cam fail and that group had previously had hemi tick. There are so many things in the quart of oil that you don't get from other oils, all things that are protection above just "viscosity". I see you already changed your mind so I left this up for transparency

I must be honest, I havent kept up on other oil formulations like I had in the past. Travis seems to know more about m1 formulas then I currently. I think it is a good choice for you and perhaps you add 15 ounce of lubegard to make it poor mans redline. My other question is how much is the 0w40 m1 per quart?

To directly answer your question, I had always hoped their would be more options, thus why I spent so much time bringing biotech into the fold and that seams to have beneficial properties. So any oil you chose I think that additive can make it better for the hemi cam lifter issue. The problem is I don't see super high moly in ester based oil with pao as well along with high zinc in any other oil for less then redline. It certainly would be great if there was, I'd be the first to buy some, but if you are looking at otc api oils you are picking an oil with API hand cuffs on. Research high performance lubricants, I have no idea on their pricing, that may be something to consider. There are a couple others but they are cheaper, so I don't mention them.

The Mexicans have a phrase for it... lo caro sale barato.

The one thing I would do is maximize your oil change interval. I'd rather have redline 5w30 and the 20-820 with 5k miles on it then a fresh oil change of any other oil out there. Why? Simply put, it keeps my lifters from ticking and any other oil wouldn't.

How do you "safely" maximize an interval? Utilize blackstone labs and pay for tbn. Plus as additional insurance, you can add bg moa 1/2 way through at interval if you are pushing it. At 7500 miles you can drain some oil off and send it to blackstone and get tbn numbers. It is the only way I know how to do this.

Burla said:

The one thing I would do is maximize your oil change interval. I'd rather have redline 5w30 and the 20-820 with 5k miles on it then a fresh oil change of any other oil out there. Why? Simply put, it keeps my lifters from ticking and any other oil wouldn't.

How do you "safely" maximize an interval? Utilize blackstone labs and pay for tbn. Plus as additional insurance, you can add bg moa 1/2 way through at interval if you are pushing it. At 7500 miles you can drain some oil off and send it to blackstone and get tbn numbers. It is the only way I know how to do this.

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Hi @Burla

M1 fs 0w40 is <$5/qt at Wally World.
I’ve changed my oil religiously max every 5k miles.

To my understanding UOA if I’m not trying to push intervals is going to give me piece of mind or reactive information not preventative, am I right?

I do not have a misfire, but I do have very noticeable lifter tick, like it is loud compared to the exhaust bolt tick I had previously.

My thought was if I’m trying to save the engine (to keep the truck as long as possible) to change out the cam and lifters before the oil shavings start going through the engine and fix the problem (2015 lifters).

I don’t mind biting the bullet for the best (RL) in theory, all my performance cars have had amsoil signature, but I bought a truck for it to be a truck.

Burla said:

The Mexicans have a phrase for it... lo caro sale barato.

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That phrase us Mexicans use is "lo barato sale caro" , you got it backwards lol ...

That is a crazy good deal on m1 0w40, a great oil for most cars.

UOA will tell you how your hemi tick engine is wearing, some people find that of value.

The choise is do I go with what we know works most of the time proven here in poll threads, or try something else. We just had a long time redline user have success with a different strategy, @Hemi395 can attest in some situations viscosity plus good oil can give a truck similar results to the known tick killer.

The choice is yours, let us know the journey and what works and doesnt. gl burla

CheechDogg.0n37s said:

That phrase us Mexicans use is "lo barato sale caro" , you got it backwards lol ...

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thanks. Thus why I failed spanish in HS, other then starring at the teachers features for that hour I could never do that backwards forwards thing.

Burla said:

thanks. Thus why I failed spanish in HS, other then starring at the teachers features for that hour I could never do that backwards forwards thing.

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LOL .... I didn't do that good in spanish either, proper spanish is a PIA lol ... by the way, did you know "Burla" means joke in spanish ?

CheechDogg.0n37s said:

LOL .... I didn't do that good in spanish either, proper spanish is a PIA lol ... by the way, did you know "Burla" means joke in spanish ?

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So that's why them Mexicans gave me that name. That name literally was given to me from all my friends back in the day, all of them mexican or south american. But, the origins came from my last name. They shortened a longer nick name I had.

Burla said:

So that's why them Mexicans gave me that name. That name literally was given to me from all my friends back in the day, all of them mexican or south american. But, the origins came from my last name. They shortened a longer nick name I had.

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LOl !!!

Technically they don't know as Burla, they call me Burrrrrla. I changed it to Burla.

It is because I have a certain way of saying things and they say that was cold man.

good talk

Burla said:

That is a crazy good deal on m1 0w40, a great oil for most cars.

UOA will tell you how your hemi tick engine is wearing, some people find that of value.

The choise is do I go with what we know works most of the time proven here in poll threads, or try something else. We just had a long time redline user have success with a different strategy, @Hemi395 can attest in some situations viscosity plus good oil can give a truck similar results to the known tick killer.

The choice is yours, let us know the journey and what works and doesnt. gl burla

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Thanks for the advice.
I have already ordered a UOA from blackstone. And will journal back what I end up doing.

Black1500Ram said:

I saw you said M1 fs 0w40 is super class, thinner, and missing out on ester base and additives.

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I don't know who coined the term Super Class Oil, but it's nonsense. Like all 0W-X oils, M1 0W-40 is blended from thin base oils and uses an average Olefin Copolymer to get to a 40 weight. It's too good of an oil for how cheap it is. Mobil blends it with about 8% POE and ANs, which is the norm for Mobil Euro oils. The only corner they cut is the viscosity index improver, something that every major blender, and even AMSOIL and Red Line don't spend money on. Red Line uses thicker base oils, so they don't have to spend money on VII. Quality VII are expensive. The ones that don't shear are called Star Polymers, and HPL uses them in their 0W-40 Supercar oil, along with 750ppm moly, PAO, POE, and ANs. But it's as expensive ad Red Line. Use M1 0W-40 with confidence year-round.

Black1500Ram said:

Hi @Burla

M1 fs 0w40 is <$5/qt at Wally World.
I’ve changed my oil religiously max every 5k miles.

To my understanding UOA if I’m not trying to push intervals is going to give me piece of mind or reactive information not preventative, am I right?

I do not have a misfire, but I do have very noticeable lifter tick, like it is loud compared to the exhaust bolt tick I had previously.

My thought was if I’m trying to save the engine (to keep the truck as long as possible) to change out the cam and lifters before the oil shavings start going through the engine and fix the problem (2015 lifters).

I don’t mind biting the bullet for the best (RL) in theory, all my performance cars have had amsoil signature, but I bought a truck for it to be a truck.

Click to expand...

Thanks @Burla

Im just going to make this statement clear right from the get go, redline is the proven tick killer on this thread. It uses an old school additive package with higher antiwear additives, a good dose of calcium and boron and its full of moly! Plus its pao and ester based. Now how much ester is unknown. I would assume 12-15% ester.

Mobil 1 FS 0w40 is what i use, its also an old school euro full saps additive package. Where it differs is it contains alot less moly but it still has 80 ppm or moly and 300 ppm of boron. Zddp is similar. Tbn is high at ~12.6 starting out at. Base oils used are pao, GTL, and a splash of ester. Unknown likely not much 5-7% i would guess. That guess is based on posts from gohkan on bitog. Overall its about 40% pao 50 % gtl with the rest being esters. The base oil density is also quite a bit lower than redline.

The other untested oil is HPL. Their oils could be a top choice for the hemi all though cost is a factor here. Not sure on current price of redline i believe its 12-14 per quart? Some HPL formulations reach 20 per quart. The advantage with them is similar to amsoil and its their long drain capability

I like mobil 1 FS however no other oil has proven itself in this application like redline has. Hope this helped a little!