Engine knock?

farout75 · Jul 11, 2022

CaliBear490 said:
Not sure if it’ll come out here but I posted the YouTube link

https://youtube.com/shorts/n3eYE17TeuQ?feature=share

That engine is shot! The 4.7 was a pretty good engine, but when it went it was done. Your choice is get a rebuilt 4.7 and have it put in, trade it off and get hardly anything, sell it to DIY guy, or get a crate engine and it should run a long time. Not a good place to be, but you paid nothing for it and putting a engine in it makes a nice truck.

5times_the_charm · Jul 11, 2022

I’d say broken manifold bolt I just replaced mine a while back the passenger side rear bolt was broke and while removing bolts I broke the bolt next to it and had to weld a nut on each one to get them out and no more noise. Definitely if doing exhaust bolts use every trick in the book to not break any bolts cause removing a broken bolt sucks

El Huapo · Jul 11, 2022

To check for air/exhaust leaks, I have attached my shopvac outlet and hose into the exhaust pipe (cold engine, etc.) to pressurize the system and then run my hands around the engine. You can often feel/hear the leaks that way. It costs nothing which I like. Also used something soft like a feather, taped on a stiff wire to check back of manifolds when hands wouldn't reach. Good luck, hope it's just an exhaust leak, sounds terrible in the video.
You might also pull plug wires, one by one (use an insulating tool) and see if the sound goes away. If it were a wrist pin or rod bearing, etc. it will stop/change when that cylinder isn't firing. Hope that isn't the case here.

Curt Gobbell · Jul 11, 2022

You can confirm/deny the tick/knock is on the top-end (lifter, valve, push rod, rocker) vs bottom-end (piston rod, rod bearing) by calculating the knocks per minute vs your idle speed.

For example, your truck should idle in the 600-800 RPM range, so if you count 300-400 knocks per minute, the it is top-end. To make it easy on your brain, just count "knocks for 10 seconds, then multiply by 6".

I had the same knock...turned out to be a collapsed lifted (cylinder 7)

2014 5.7L Knock/Tick/Tap?

I have a 2014 Ram Laramie Limited with the 5.7L Hemi with 145k on the truck. Today, out of the blue, it started ticking/tapping/knocking (not sure how to describe it). Here is what I have diagnosed so far; 1. The noise matches engine speed 2. Same sound/volume in drive, neutral or reverse 3...

www.ramforum.com

weldguy · Jul 11, 2022

Back in the day, pulling plug wires and replacing them one-by-one while idling will verify a rod knock by a change in knock sound when not under load. I suppose it could still be done with coil packs, but will throw a code.
The other thing I can remember is a cracked or loose flex plate can sound a lot like an internal knock. It can be verified by changing from Drive to Neutral to Reverse. The noise should stop or be very minimal in Neutral.
Yes, I'm old... but have seen a lot.

Dusty · Jul 12, 2022

CaliBear490 said:
Not sure if it’ll come out here but I posted the YouTube link

https://youtube.com/shorts/n3eYE17TeuQ?feature=share

If that's a valve train noise, it would be the loudest one I've ever heard.

Hard to say over a recording in an enclosed space, but it sounds to me to be much more metallic in nature.

How's the oil pressure?

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 73766 miles

wgreggking · Jul 12, 2022

Sounds like my 2002 Dakota, with a warped exhaust manifold. Was four wheeling at 10,000 feet+ in colorado shut it off and was fine. Fired it up an hour later sounded like that, real loud

CaliBear490 · Jul 13, 2022

Dusty said:
If that's a valve train noise, it would be the loudest one I've ever heard.

Hard to say over a recording in an enclosed space, but it sounds to me to be much more metallic in nature.

How's the oil pressure?

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 73766 miles

Oil pressure and level are fine. Just did the oil change with that another member recommended to see if it’ll help.

Dodge 1500 4X4 · Jul 13, 2022

weldguy said:
Back in the day, pulling plug wires and replacing them one-by-one while idling will verify a rod knock by a change in knock sound when not under load. I suppose it could still be done with coil packs, but will throw a code.
The other thing I can remember is a cracked or loose flex plate can sound a lot like an internal knock. It can be verified by changing from Drive to Neutral to Reverse. The noise should stop or be very minimal in Neutral.
Yes, I'm old... but have seen a lot.

^^^^^This ^^^^^
Pull the connector to the coils one by one and see if the noise changes that will take the load off of that cylinder, to me sounds like lower end rod, or wrist pin. And to me there is new school and old school.

CaliBear490 · Aug 1, 2022

UPDATE: it was a failed rod bearing. Oil had shavings when I drained it. I decided to do an engine swap since I got a good deal on one. Truck runs strong with no noise now

EriikK · Oct 27, 2022

Thanks for the update!
Did you look at the rod bearings or the lifters when you took the engine out? Lifters can put shavings in the oil too. I tried counting ticks in your video and I got about 34 knocks in 8.5 seconds of video so call it 240 knocks per second, which would lead me to think valvetrain.

The reason I ask is that I'm in the same boat, trying to diagnose a bad engine knock in my 2015 6.4 Hemi. I guess my next step is to go count knocks, and also try disconnecting coil packs.

Of course if I can find a good used engine at a good price it doesn't matter which it is. How hard is it to swap a Hemi compared to doing the cam and lifter job?

jws123 · Oct 27, 2022

EriikK said:
Thanks for the update!
Did you look at the rod bearings or the lifters when you took the engine out? Lifters can put shavings in the oil too. I tried counting ticks in your video and I got about 34 knocks in 8.5 seconds of video so call it 240 knocks per second, which would lead me to think valvetrain.

The reason I ask is that I'm in the same boat, trying to diagnose a bad engine knock in my 2015 6.4 Hemi. I guess my next step is to go count knocks, and also try disconnecting coil packs.

Of course if I can find a good used engine at a good price it doesn't matter which it is. How hard is it to swap a Hemi compared to doing the cam and lifter job?

Honestly pulling the motor will take ab the same time as doing a cam and its not hard to pull just one cost more then the other.

Engine knock?

farout75

Senior Member

5times_the_charm

Junior Member

El Huapo

Senior Member

Curt Gobbell

Senior Member

2014 5.7L Knock/Tick/Tap?

weldguy

Member

Dusty

Senior Member

wgreggking

Senior Member

CaliBear490

Member

Dodge 1500 4X4

Senior Member

CaliBear490

Member

EriikK

Member

jws123

Senior Member

Similar threads

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Share this page