Lifter Failure / Hot Oil / Better Cooling etc.

Hydrasport23 said:

If you are sure the lifters have an issue, replacing them is the only fix. The cam lobe has either delaminated or a lifter has a roller or roller bearing failure. Pull the valve covers and look for slack in the valve train. Don't wait until you have more damage and send more metal through the engine. You will not reset the valve lash as these engines do not have an adjustable rocker setup.
I don't know why you are running "0" weight oil in a hot climate.
I replaced the lifters and oil pump with the Mellings products. Very good replacement parts. Used an OEM VVT Mopar cam, deleted the MDS system and plugged the solenoids. Added a tune and shorty headers while I was making these repairs to eliminate future exhaust bolt issues. If you want to keep the MDS system, do it because the MDS lifters/system are not the cause of the lifter failure. I lost both MDS and non MDS lifters in my engine. I pulled the oil pan and windage tray to clean the bottom end of any metal debris.
Changing cooling fans will not lower your operating engine temps until you get more airflow or set the electric fans to operate at a lower temp. My 2013 (5.7) has both electric and mechanical fan. I installed a 180 thermostat. Engine runs at 192, even when towing.

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ramffml said:

Yep, same for me. I mentioned it because I'm interested in the physics, as to what exactly is going on that would cause a lower psi, and it appears from my 10 second search above that not every oil cooler loses pressure (nor would my limited understanding of this subject suggest that it should lose signifcant pressure). Something odd going on somewhere.

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Black1500Ram said:

Hi Guys,

Been lurking for a while and now have the dreaded lifter tick.
Thanks for everyone who has replied to my prior questions. Please anyone feel free to jump in correct any misinformation I might have, suggestions etc.

MY TRUCK
2015 Ram 1500 5.7, 8HP70, 3.92 rear. Bought at 27k currently 112k

Oil related maintenance:
5w20 PUP w/ fram xg10060 filter changed every 5k during that time.
Currently M1 FS 5w40 w/ Fram xg10575, Purolator One Air Filter changed once a year (shout out to project farm on Youtube)

Other maintenance / upgrades:
Spark plugs changed at 100k, Amsoil in trans, tcase and diffs. 89 fuel. Suspension fully rebuilt will all Moog parts, Hellwig rear sway, Freedom Offroad Rear control arms and track bar, Billstein 5100's yada yada v6 fan in addition to mechanical.

Heaviest tow - ~6000lbs camper with dist hitch... maybe 4 times / year

So now that I have 'the tick' I'm putting together this thread for what I'm going to do to fix it and hopefully compile some other preventative fixes to reduce the chance of it happening again? Its def lifter, I've had the exhaust manifold tick; this is nothing like that.

My truck is almost paid off so I don't want to have to buy another one any time soon, and would like to get to 200/300k miles. If money allowed, I would just trade in my truck for a 3500 and call it a day but it doesn't and I don’t need a 3500.

START HERE TO SKIP INTRO
Plan is to replace lifters with the latest 2017+ OEM version, still MDS, new MDS cam, pushrods, head studs.

I also plan on installing new oem water pump, 180° t-stat, new timing chain tensioner, hellcat oil pump (stock 50 psi spring), Royal Purple 20-820 filter, remove center AGS shutters, caulk transmission heater bypass, Pacbrake Oil Filter relocation kit.

I noticed while towing a quad on a small 5x8 single axle trailer (<1200lbs) through route 87 mountains in AZ, 100° ambient, I'm getting into the 250° oil temp range with cruise set at 65. Coolant is still at 210°, trans gets up to 200° sometimes. I can’t go more than 45/50 mph over the same route with the camper without the temps creeping into the 260° range.

Anything I'm missing guys? I'm furious that I have to do this but if I'm going to tear into the engine I want to give this truck the best chance to last another 150k miles.

Thanks in advance.

James

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John Schmidt said:

I seem to recall that Johnson makes lifters for the 5.7 that are better than OEM, in terms of lubrication (I think they call it axle drilling) ... helps with the lifters being mounted so horizontal-ish on the hemi. Supposedly addresses the hemi tick.

Home

Might want to check that out.
- John

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Roy the Fixer said:

My tick was a broken bolt on the right exhaust manifold and was easy to mistake for a lifter tick. Two theories for why the bolts break are that the manifold gets stressed because the temperature is unequal when she is running on four cylinders in Eco mode, and that the manifold mountings get stressed by the exhaust pipes being mounted too rigidly causing mechanical stress.

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Wild one said:

The Johnson lifters aren't for a stock oiling system,that lifter leak has caused a few blown up hemi's,as the oiling system isn't set up,to handle another leak,which is what the axle oiling hole is.Go onto a few of the Hi-po Ram facebook pages and ask about them.

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Burn2k12Ram said:

stay away from ebay for something like this. Self explanatory

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Black1500Ram said:

@Wild one what are your thoughts on Johnson lifters with an unmodified hellcat oil pump? (70psi) I was planning on installing one with the oem 50psi spring with oem lifters.

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Wild one said:

I still wouldn't run them,the oem lifters aka Hellcat lifters with the idle bumped up to 750 rpm is your best bet,even with the hellcat pump.You still need crank splash to help lube the lifters,and a higher idle is one of the best things you can do to help prolong the life of the lifters.

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Black1500Ram said:

I’m planning on keeping the mds system, and was really trying to avoid having to pay for a tuner / tuning but I may… no other way to raise the idle speed right?

Lifters, cam, pushrods, head gaskets, head studs, oil pump, water pump, tstat, trans heater bypass, AGS delete, all this stuff adds up for things that IMO should never need to be done on a stock power truck.

If I were hunting power then I’d have no problem paying for tuner, tuning, long tubes etc.

Sigh

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Wild one said:

I'd do ARP head bolts before head studs,lol. Studs are a royal pain to work with,and unless you're planning on hitting it with 10+ lbs of boost or a 175 shot of nitrous,aren't really needed.The ARP head bolts in my truck have been holding a 75 shot of nitrous for 600 dragstrip passes with no issues,lol

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