Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Are you having an issue? Run a good syn oil......forget the Seafoam.Hello, looking for feedback with regards to adding Seafoam in my Hemi a little prior to an oil change..
I’m told it helps clean out any possible clogged up debris.
The best way to use sea foam is through the vac lines, probably the best way to clean the combustion chamber. The other two options is dump in oil or dump in fuel. The least useful thing to do with sea foam is use in gas, for that I would try si-1 redline a high PEA %, way better strategy then adding a weak solvent to gas. Now, you didnt mention which application type you were going to do of these 3 or what the issue is, can you expand on what you are thinking?Hello, looking for feedback with regards to adding Seafoam in my Hemi a little prior to an oil change..
I’m told it helps clean out any possible clogged up debris.
Whatever happened to this test you did on bitog, I'm kinda curious lol:The best way to use sea foam is through the vac lines, probably the best way to clean the combustion chamber. The other two options is dump in oil or dump in fuel. The least useful thing to do with sea foam is use in gas, for that I would try si-1 redline a high PEA %, way better strategy then adding a weak solvent to gas. Now, you didnt mention which application type you were going to do of these 3 or what the issue is, can you expand on what you are thinking?
I fully endorse using a pre oil change product such as Sea Foam. Add 1 ounce per quart to the oil just before you change the oil and run the engine at 1500 RPM for about 15 minutes. The chemical will help emulsify the traces of sludge formed due to the hygroscopic nature of a hot engine cooling off and condensing water inside and keep it in suspension while the oil drains. Also, the air flowing through the PCV gets super cooled due to delta effect and tends to build up sludge. This is why many manufacturers heat the PCV.Hello, looking for feedback with regards to adding Seafoam in my Hemi a little prior to an oil change..
I’m told it helps clean out any possible clogged up debris.
This is BS, so for those watching, don't do it.I fully endorse using a pre oil change product such as Sea Foam. Add 1 ounce per quart to the oil just before you change the oil and run the engine at 1500 RPM for about 15 minutes. The chemical will help emulsify the traces of sludge formed due to the hygroscopic nature of a hot engine cooling off and condensing water inside and keep it in suspension while the oil drains. Also, the air flowing through the PCV gets super cooled due to delta effect and tends to build up sludge. This is why many manufacturers heat the PCV.
I don't care what type of oil you use.... nature (physics) trumps everything!
Forgive me as I’m fairly new here. What relation to FCA do you have or what certifications to “fully endorse “ this method? That statement means you are affiliated with one or more entities this method is involved with. Truly curious, not being a smarty pants. Especially since the TSA Ron posted directly contradicts your “endorsement “.I fully endorse using a pre oil change product such as Sea Foam. Add 1 ounce per quart to the oil just before you change the oil and run the engine at 1500 RPM for about 15 minutes. The chemical will help emulsify the traces of sludge formed due to the hygroscopic nature of a hot engine cooling off and condensing water inside and keep it in suspension while the oil drains. Also, the air flowing through the PCV gets super cooled due to delta effect and tends to build up sludge. This is why many manufacturers heat the PCV.
I don't care what type of oil you use.... nature (physics) trumps everything!
46 years as an ASE Master L1, GM Master, GMC Truck expert technician. Formally trained at GM and Ford factory schools, Many independent educational professional "keep up with technology" courses. Owning my own shop and actively using these products in my own and customers' cars. Seeing before and after in engines when I do internal repairs and see how clean these products keep the internal workings of engines. E.G. I replaced a leaky oil pan gasket on a 2002 Taurus 3.0L "U" engine. At high mileage and having used the cleaning products on it (BG in this case) along with BG additives. The pistons and rods were perfectly clean as new, the inside of the oil pan and block surfaces were shiny and impressively clean given the high mileage on the odometer. This is only one of many examples where I've seen no varnish or sludge inside due to diligent periodic maintenance.Forgive me as I’m fairly new here. What relation to FCA do you have or what certifications to “fully endorse “ this method? That statement means you are affiliated with one or more entities this method is involved with. Truly curious, not being a smarty pants. Especially since the TSA Ron posted directly contradicts your “endorsement “.
I was thinking of doing this then found that TSA and decided against it.
The treatments you add to the vehicles you mentioned are still routinely changed at specified intervals.?46 years as an ASE Master L1, GM Master, GMC Truck expert technician. Formally trained at GM and Ford factory schools, Many independent educational professional "keep up with technology" courses. Owning my own shop and actively using these products in my own and customers' cars. Seeing before and after in engines when I do internal repairs and see how clean these products keep the internal workings of engines. E.G. I replaced a leaky oil pan gasket on a 2002 Taurus 3.0L "U" engine. At high mileage and having used the cleaning products on it (BG in this case) along with BG additives. The pistons and rods were perfectly clean as new, the inside of the oil pan and block surfaces were shiny and impressively clean given the high mileage on the odometer. This is only one of many examples where I've seen no varnish or sludge inside due to diligent periodic maintenance.
Seafoam, BG, and ATS (Automotive Test Solutions) additives have been the ones I chiefly use because they work for me and my customers. I recently put a bottle of ATS fuel additive in my wife's car and a customer's car (both Kia Sorentos). ATS also makes a very good oil change treatment such as seafoam, only WAY better. It is very effective on GDI engines. The customer has absolutely raved about how the car runs as good as it did new! I have a large following of customer with very high mileage on their cars and they still run perfectly, and these customers routinely go on long trips in dependable cars which have had superior maintenance.
GM has a product currently labeled as an assembly lube, but it once was sold as an additive. It has the consistency of tepid molasses. It contains Zinc Phosphate. Inasmuch as EPA has mandated much lower levels of ZDPP in gasoline engine lubricants, this is a loophole to allow its legal sale under a different nomenclature. I buy it by the case and use it in all non VVT engines. Over the long haul, ZDPP will slightly shorten the life of a catalytic converter. Which is cheaper? A new catalytic converter? Or a new/rebuilt engine? I leave that up to my customers after they become well informed.I can't remember when i added an additive to an engines Crankcase
I do know that it was not a daily driver, more likely it was a flipper that i picked up some where.
On the other hand, i have used SEA Foam or Berrymans in the gas tanks on almost all my vehicles.
I believe it helps keep the Carburetors & Fuel Injectors cleaner
The dealership charges almost $200. to clean the Fuel Injection System & i never noticed the engine acting any different