5w30 Liqui Moly and Warranty

My 2019 Hemi Classic has an occasional lifter tick on startup….not always but often enough to be a concern. After 10-30 seconds all is quiet. I’ve been using PUP 5w20 or Valvoline FS 5w20 since I’ve owned it.
My neighbor has a VW Atlas with a v6 and similar issues. His VW dealer recommended Liqui Moly 5w30 and he swears no more noise and smoother running.
I’m very interested in trying the Liqui Moly next oil change but would 5w30 void the warranty if the engine/cam fails? I’m not worried about MDS because I generally turn it off with the
-gear switch….I hate the exhaust moaning with my magnaflow muffler.
I know Liqui Moly is not the most popular and more expensive than other oils, but I intend to keep the truck a long time so a few dollars extra for oil is not a big deal to me.
Any input is appreciated

I’ve run penzoil ultra platinum 5w30 and redline 5w30 in my truck. Both oils have an occasional dry lifter tick on startup. I’ve tried fram ultra synthetic filters, royal purple filters, and factory mopar filters. None have completely rid the tick. It seems to happen randomly and more often after a short drive where the truck doesn’t have time to warm the oil. I added lubeguard recently with my current oil and noticed the lifters to be a tad quieter when warm but startup is the same for me with the random tick at start. Some engines tend to be a bit noisier than others. I’m saving for a cam swap next year so hopefully it helps in my case. Debating on installing the bigger oil pump when I do the cam

Mobile 1 -- 0-40 and never had any noise???

Stop turning off the MDS and that will help. The MDS sends extra oil to the lifters when engaged. I run whatever good 5w-30 I can find on sale with a dose of lubeguard and rarely have any lifter tick. The only time I've heard it is if I run the truck for just a short period, then I get 5 seconds of tick when I fire it back up.

I run LiquiMoly 5W30 in the Green Bottle. It's called MolyGen. I also use a can of their Hydraulic Lifter Additive as well. I have no tick at start up.... Motor seems to love it! It is incredibly quiet!

Best regards,

-Mike

If you use 5w30 oil and the truck is under warranty, well,they may denied the coverage, as the oil cap say ,only 5w20,I have 2019 classic, and my hemi developed a tick at 25.000km,after trying different oils &filters,comes out that the only cure for me is conventional pennzoil 5w20 with mopar oil filter,this kill the tick,yesterday the dealer change the oil&filter again,before I was doing this myself,but becoze the warranty and the hemi tick,from now ,only dealer,and I ask the technician what oil is this,and he tells me is semi synthetic pennzoil 5w20.

Marmay said:

If you use 5w30 oil and the truck is under warranty, well,they may denied the coverage, as the oil cap say ,only 5w20,I have 2019 classic, and my hemi developed a tick at 25.000km,after trying different oils &filters,comes out that the only cure for me is conventional pennzoil 5w20 with mopar oil filter,this kill the tick,yesterday the dealer change the oil&filter again,before I was doing this myself,but becoze the warranty and the hemi tick,from now ,only dealer,and I ask the technician what oil is this,and he tells me is semi synthetic pennzoil 5w20.

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Pay attention to the note at the bottom.

If you really care about your engine life, you need to raise the idle speed to 750rpm.
As for oil 5w20, its literally the worst **** to run in a HEMI ! all the proof is in the Blackstone oil analyst thread.
Warranty would be the last of my worries. They just put the same factory junk back in anyways. Might as well fix it yourself and fix it right !

Wild one said:

Pay attention to the note at the bottom.

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Under warranty 5w20 and this eliminated the arguments about the coverage, so save you the headache and pain in the ass if something wrong happens to the engine.

Marmay said:

Under warranty 5w20 and this eliminated the arguments about the coverage, so save you the headache and pain in the ass if something wrong happens to the engine.

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Your call,but the majority of guys on here won't agree with you.Question for you,if you're worried about warrenty and the engine goes south,what's to stop you from draining the oil and re-filling the crankcase with 5W-20 ,just saying.I'm not the sharpest cookie in the box,but that would seem to be the thing you'd want to do,before the dealer got to it,if you think they'll ffubar you on warrenty because you ran 5W-30

Wild one said:

Your call,but the majority of guys on here won't agree with you.Question for you,if you're worried about warrenty and the engine goes south,what's to stop you from draining the oil and re-filling the crankcase with 5W-20 ,just saying.I'm not the sharpest cookie in the box,but that would seem to be the thing you'd want to do,before the dealer got to it,if you think they'll ffubar you on warrenty because you ran 5W-30

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You do what you want, on the end is your truck or car,but I know one thing,they gonna trying and using any reason that my affect the warranty to denying their responsibility,you may cheat or do what you wish with it,again is your vehicle.

Marmay said:

You do what you want, on the end is your truck or car,but I know one thing,they gonna trying and using any reason that my affect the warranty to denying their responsibility,you may cheat or do what you wish with it,again is your vehicle.

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When FCA says it's okay to run 5W-30 in the big printed manual,then try to disqualify a warrenty claim,because you ran 5W-30,who do you think is cheating.FCA will use every ******** excuse to dis qualify a warrenty claim,and you have the audacity to say swapping out the 5W30 in the oilpan to 5W20 is cheating,you're out to lunch,lol

Wild one said:

When FCA says it's okay to run 5W-30 in the big printed manual,then try to disqualify a warrenty claim,because you ran 5W-30,who do you think is cheating.FCA will use every ******** excuse to dis qualify a warrenty claim,and you have the audacity to say swapping out the 5W30 in the oilpan to 5W20 is cheating,you're out to lunch,lol

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My manual say nothing about 5w30,I was told follow the instructions in your book,2019 recommend using 5w20 ,so as long as this truck is under warranty, I am gonna use 5w20 ,you do whatever you want

Question. How can they tell what is the viscosity of your oil? Is it color? Just wondering. I use Mobile1 6qts of 5w-20 and 1 qt of LUCAS full synthetic lubricant. The tick goes away at startup within a couple seconds. 92K miles.

hawsk99gt said:

Question. How can they tell what is the viscosity of your oil? Is it color? Just wondering. I use Mobile1 6qts of 5w-20 and 1 qt of LUCAS full synthetic lubricant. The tick goes away at startup within a couple seconds. 92K miles.

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That's very interesting question, the only way to find out is to perform a test in the laboratory ,visual testing wont give you the answer.

hawsk99gt said:

Question. How can they tell what is the viscosity of your oil? Is it color? Just wondering. I use Mobile1 6qts of 5w-20 and 1 qt of LUCAS full synthetic lubricant. The tick goes away at startup within a couple seconds. 92K miles.

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Viscosity meter. Lucas is viscosity 45, m1 is about 9, 6x9 =54 +45 = 99/7 = 14 your current viscosity at temp. So your strategy is to use an oil thickner, your current oil is 40 weight. There are a few other strategies that don't include thickening the oil or using chlorine. Or if this works for you all is well, just letting you know what the product is. The main issue with oil thickners is at start up, your oil is very thick at that time compared to 5w20, in winter could be an issue.

Marmay said:

That's very interesting question, the only way to find out is to perform a test in the laboratory ,visual testing wont give you the answer.

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then if that is the case then if one wants to use 5w30 it doesn't matter. It is hard enough to get my dealer mechanics to actually do any kind of investigation to find a problem that I might be experiencing, much less figure out that I put Crisco oil in it. They seem to wait for codes to happen in order to diagnose. I'm sure my way of getting rid of the hemi tick on startup is probably not recommended either. Thanks for answering my question.

Burla said:

Viscosity meter. Lucas is viscosity 45, m1 is about 9, 6x9 =54 +45 = 99/7 = 14 your current viscosity at temp. So your strategy is to use an oil thickner, your current oil is 40 weight. There are a few other strategies that don't include thickening the oil or using chlorine. Or if this works for you all is well, just letting you know what the product is. The main issue with oil thickners is at start up, your oil is very thick at that time compared to 5w20, in winter could be an issue.

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now you got me thinking, appreciate it. Someone on this forum recommended it cause the Lucas would still be coated on the lifters, giving it some lubrication at start up till the oil gets there. I'll go back to the 7 qts of 5w20 when the weather starts getting cooler again. Thanks for the math, that is good to know.

hawsk99gt said:

now you got me thinking, appreciate it. Someone on this forum recommended it cause the Lucas would still be coated on the lifters, giving it some lubrication at start up till the oil gets there. I'll go back to the 7 qts of 5w20 when the weather starts getting cooler again. Thanks for the math, that is good to know.

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NP, read this thread, so one other strategy here is to use an additive with esters and moly, and some other helpful stuff. You can see the poll, pretty good % it will help w/o thickening or diluting your oil. Everything in biotech is already in oil, just more of it. We call it poor man's redline, same science but redline has a better chance at killing that tick.

However, in the spirit of the OP, molygen also has an additive with EP science such as lubegard biotech. It has not been tested as much because for a long time it was only available in Germany and Europe. I believe it is a tungsten additive or maybe titanium, I don't know for sure. Moly uses sulfur and zinc uses phos to achieve aw/ep properties. I don't really know about this additive and what they bind their additive with to achieve the plating effect we are used to. Now as you see if you clicked on it it costs more then double biotech, but it in theory might help hemi tick just as much as biotech or redline. It is just untested here at RF.




Now yes this is a one arm bandit, sorry about that, but there just isnt a lot out there on this. Another problem, they put it in millers oil which most likely is the best oil you can possibly buy all by itself. So here are a couple examples of additives that are basically just using EP additives already in wide us but concentrated amounts. Ram Forum has proven lubegard biotech certainly has a good success rate at killing hemi tick, look at poll results and read the thread. Whatever works and leaves the oil in the best shape is what I am in favor of, even if it is lucas. But before I settled on lucas I would try many other strategies first.

joesstripclub said:

Stop turning off the MDS and that will help. The MDS sends extra oil to the lifters when engaged. I run whatever good 5w-30 I can find on sale with a dose of lubeguard and rarely have any lifter tick. The only time I've heard it is if I run the truck for just a short period, then I get 5 seconds of tick when I fire it back up.

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I don’t believe this is correct. When towing, the load on the truck typically disables MDS. Hence, folks that tow a lot, or tradesman that tow all the time, would constantly have lifter issues.

With MDS in or off the lifters still get lubrication.

Also, MDS has zero effect on my gas mileage. Going from St Louis to Gulf Shores, I left MDS on going and turned it off coming home. Hand calculated I lost .01 mpg with it off. It’s a system to show the government the it’s doing something to help Cafe ratings. I guess with millions of engines using MDS it probably does save some gas world wide. Ha. What a joke