Advice for towing car with a 5.7/3.92

PaleFlyer · Aug 4, 2022

Planning a run from south North Carolina (Charlotte area), to Phili, PA soon to grab a '66 mustang. I'm going for a full size car hauler, as the 66 hasn't moved under it's own power since '81, and hasn't moved at all since ~'93.

I know my mileage is gonna tank on the way home, but any advice on how to "minimize" the wear on the ram? I'm at about 67k on it, running PP, swapping to PUP on the next change. I know hauling can be a lot of work on a truck, so just trying to make sure I don't do anything to massively decrease the life.

North bound will likely be 2-3 adults, a couple overnight bags, some car dollies, and a decent jack, so maybe an extra 800#, rent a trailer when I'm up there, and bring it all home.

Dollies are incase the mustang won't roll 30' onto the trailer.

I have a rebel, with bags.

ramffml · Aug 4, 2022

I'm not sure what the viscosity on PUP is like, but a number of us here who tow use Redline at 5w-30 weight. You may want to check your diff/transmission fluids.

Beyond that, just put it in T/H and take it easy and keep an eye on engine temps. These 5.7's were used for years as the base engine in the 2500 so they're more than capable of being worked. The only caveat to that is that I would upgrade to the thicker oil as 5w-20 has no business being in a hemi while its working hot.

hemihustlin · Aug 4, 2022

yup run good oil in 5w30 or better and dont worry about it! these trucks are meant to be worked!

62Blazer · Aug 4, 2022

To be honest you are over thinking it way too much. Hook up the trailer, pick up the car, tow it home......it's not that big of a deal.

Jerrybob · Aug 4, 2022

Got to agree.....you won't have any issues with that load. Your mustang weighs less than 3K lbs.....I have carried much bigger vehicles on my trailer with a similar set up. Don't go 75mph....keep it under 65.....you willbe fine. Good luck.

PaleFlyer · Aug 4, 2022

ramffml said:
I'm not sure what the viscosity on PUP is like, but a number of us here who tow use Redline at 5w-30 weight. You may want to check your diff/transmission fluids.

Beyond that, just put it in T/H and take it easy and keep an eye on engine temps. These 5.7's were used for years as the base engine in the 2500 so they're more than capable of being worked. The only caveat to that is that I would upgrade to the thicker oil as 5w-20 has no business being in a hemi while its working hot.

You say it should run 30 weight, but the manual for the '18's says "30 can be used if 20 isn't available." What difference does the 30W make?

PaleFlyer · Aug 4, 2022

Jerrybob said:
Got to agree.....you won't have any issues with that load. Your mustang weighs less than 3K lbs.....I have carried much bigger vehicles on my trailer with a similar set up. Don't go 75mph....keep it under 65.....you will be fine. Good luck.

According to a mustang site, ~2860. I expect the trailer to be under 1k, so under 4k total.

I'm trying to baby this truck a little, as I want to make sure I make 200+k on it. And I know a good running engine also runs cleaner, and "cheaper"...

pacofortacos · Aug 4, 2022

Change your rear differential oil if you haven't done it already, if you have change it after the trip.
I change mine every 2 years or so. Just a drain and fill is all that is needed and it is easier than changing the engine oil.

pacofortacos · Aug 4, 2022

PaleFlyer said:
You say it should run 30 weight, but the manual for the '18's says "30 can be used if 20 isn't available." What difference does the 30W make?

The engine will run hotter under load, and the 30 weight will give a bit more protection as the load and temp increase.

I tow from Pittsburgh to the Florida Keys most every year, over 70 mph and boat and load is probably in the 5000+ lb range.
I have used 5w-20 but you can hear how thin it is when you shut off the engine. I have also used a few quarts of 0w-30 or 5w-30 in it on other trips.
This year I was going to see how 0w-40 w/ 2 qts of 5w-20 was going to work, but I had to cancel the trip

THE BIGGEST thing that you want to do is MAKE SURE THE TRAILER BRAKES WORK! Don't assume that they will, try to confirm they do and if they don't get a different trailer. Your stock brakes will not stop you in a safe reasonable distance towing that load if you need to stop quickly.

RamFP620 · Aug 5, 2022

You should be fine. I have the same setup and just towed from Philly to upstate NY pulling 7000# and the family. Did no more than 65 and all was good.
NC to Philly is fairly flat if you stick to I-95.

Just take your time. It's not a race.

Jerrybob · Aug 5, 2022

pacofortacos said:
The engine will run hotter under load, and the 30 weight will give a bit more protection as the load and temp increase.

I tow from Pittsburgh to the Florida Keys most every year, over 70 mph and boat and load is probably in the 5000+ lb range.
I have used 5w-20 but you can hear how thin it is when you shut off the engine. I have also used a few quarts of 0w-30 or 5w-30 in it on other trips.
This year I was going to see how 0w-40 w/ 2 qts of 5w-20 was going to work, but I had to cancel the trip

THE BIGGEST thing that you want to do is MAKE SURE THE TRAILER BRAKES WORK! Don't assume that they will, try to confirm they do and if they don't get a different trailer. Your stock brakes will not stop you in a safe reasonable distance towing that load if you need to stop quickly.

Yep...trailer brakes are important. I check my brakes everytime I hook up my Casita or car trailer.....just a good habit.

PaleFlyer · Aug 5, 2022

Jerrybob said:
Yep...trailer brakes are important. I check my brakes every time I hook up my Casita or car trailer.....just a good habit.

How do you check? I'm probably going with uHaul's trailer, which I believe is based on the trailer "pushing" on the truck to activate the brakes. Just hit the brakes, and see?

pacofortacos · Aug 5, 2022

If it has surge brakes, pretty much so. If they aren't too hard, sometimes you can push in on the actuator with your leg or hand and feel drag - but many times it takes a decent amount of force.

dhay13 · Aug 5, 2022

Try backing up a hill with the plug unplugged. Some have an electrical lockout where you need an adapter to plug into the 7 pin plug. This will activate the surge brake solenoid on the trailer when you are in reverse, locking out the surge brakes. This gets powered by the reverse light pin on your trucks plug.
Others will have a manual lockout where you stick a pin or bolt through a hole in the hitch coupler.
So when testing be sure to either have your plug unplugged and be sure there is no pin in a hole if there is one.

pacofortacos · Aug 6, 2022

What dhay said, if the trailer is empty it might lock the wheels. But you should feel the drag of brakes being applied - at least a bit.

If you don't have a hill, do the same procedure but back up a bit fast from a dead stop. You should feel the trailer brakes apply.

Jerrybob · Aug 6, 2022

PaleFlyer said:
How do you check? I'm probably going with uHaul's trailer, which I believe is based on the trailer "pushing" on the truck to activate the brakes. Just hit the brakes, and see?

My driveway is a hill.....when I hook up a trailer...I manually engage the brakes via my brake controller....you can feel the trailer brakes engage.....I have two different trailers....the brake controller setting for each trailer is different.....I know where to set both so the trailer brakes work but don't skid......I always test the brakes and the lights.

dhay13 · Aug 6, 2022

Jerrybob said:
My driveway is a hill.....when I hook up a trailer...I manually engage the brakes via my brake controller....you can feel the trailer brakes engage.....I have two different trailers....the brake controller setting for each trailer is different.....I know where to set both so the trailer brakes work but don't skid......I always test the brakes and the lights.

Pretty sure he said he has surge brakes so that isn't an option

crash68 · Aug 6, 2022

dhay13 said:
Try backing up a hill with the plug unplugged.

Not necessarily, there are "free backing" surge brake assemblies that don't need to have a reverse lock out on the surge brake actuator.

PaleFlyer · Aug 8, 2022

dhay13 said:
Try backing up a hill with the plug unplugged. Some have an electrical lockout where you need an adapter to plug into the 7 pin plug. This will activate the surge brake solenoid on the trailer when you are in reverse, locking out the surge brakes. This gets powered by the reverse light pin on your trucks plug.
Others will have a manual lockout where you stick a pin or bolt through a hole in the hitch coupler.
So when testing be sure to either have your plug unplugged and be sure there is no pin in a hole if there is one.

uHaul shows only a 4 pin, which from their side I understand, as the 7 pin is a lot less common, so they will probably just have the pin.

Jerrybob said:
My driveway is a hill.....when I hook up a trailer...I manually engage the brakes via my brake controller....you can feel the trailer brakes engage.....I have two different trailers....the brake controller setting for each trailer is different.....I know where to set both so the trailer brakes work but don't skid......I always test the brakes and the lights.

I don't actually have the tow package, so not sure if I technically have a trailer brake controller, but I am 99% sure I don't have any sort of adjustment on it. But I did plan to test the lights before I left the uHaul lot.

JF19Longhorn · Aug 8, 2022

Where are you renting? I've read stories of places like uHaul not allowing their trailers to be rented to people pulling with 1/2 ton pickups. Might want to call ahead first.

Other than that your truck should handle it fine. I'd bump the tires to or close to max psi, fluids all fresh, minimum weight in the bed of the truck, working trailer brake controller, etc. The normal stuff you'd check before going on a trip.

Advice for towing car with a 5.7/3.92

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