Adding Seafoam into a Hemi prior to an oil change

Justin33 · Aug 7, 2022

Sherman Bird said:
I recently became aware of the REALLY effective fuel and oil flush additives from the boys in Albuquerque at ATS (Automotive Test Solutions) Their fuel additive works hands-down WAY faster and better than ANYTHING I've ever used. Bernie Thompson is the owner and he has 2 full time engineers on staff. They are consummate automotive nerds! Word is, they spent 8 years developing this formula. I bought 2 kits initially (Their Crankcase flush with the fuel additive). The first one was used on my wife's VERY high mileage 2007 Kia Sorento with the 3.8L engine. 226,000 miles. WOW! What a difference in smoothness this treatment made! We thought the car was running just fine! That was until I tried Bernie's flushes on it. The second one was used, as happenstance would have it, on a customer's 2014 Kia Sorento with 128,000 miles on a GDI 3.3L V-6. Afterwards, she just couldn't say enough how it runs as good as it did when it was brand new! I've since used it on 2 more customers' vehicles with the same rave as to how well it works! I now stock the fuel additive.

I've been on board with BG products for 2 decades, and have had great results as well. But their 44K can't hold a candle to the ATS stuff!

Fuel in these parts is akin to donkey *****. So there's that!

Should I try using this on my 2015 ram. I’ve noticed a flutter on startup after it’s been sitting.

Sherman Bird · Aug 7, 2022

Justin33 said:
Should I try using this on my 2015 ram. I’ve noticed a flutter on startup after it’s been sitting.

It can't hurt as far as diligent maintenance goes!

Justin33 · Aug 7, 2022

Sherman Bird said:
It can't hurt as far as diligent maintenance goes!

So this will break down carbon deposits ect?

Sherman Bird · Aug 8, 2022

Justin33 said:
So this will break down carbon deposits ect?

Yes, seafoam will help stave off carbon buildup when used palliatively. It's not the greatest product to break down existing carbon deposits, in my own experience.

Justin33 · Aug 9, 2022

Sherman Bird said:
Yes, seafoam will help stave off carbon buildup when used palliatively. It's not the greatest product to break down existing carbon deposits, in my own experience.

I was talking the ATS

Casper · Aug 9, 2022

Because these trucks recycle blow-by from the PCV into the throttle body, I don't think you can go wrong with using seafoam with the little red tube through the throttle body. You can also install a catch can, but even that can be defeated by not emptying often enough. So, once a year I loosen the intake tube from the TB and insert the lil red tube tha comes with that version of seafoam; one whole can slowly in through the TB. Evens out a rough idle once the smoke clears.

Sherman Bird · Aug 10, 2022

Justin33 said:
I was talking the ATS

I will share THE most effective carbon remover that I've EVER used. I do NOT generally tell about it because it CAN and WILL damage or destroy an engine if not used properly. WATER! Yes, good old water! We used to install secondary misting water injection systems to keep the internals clean on our hot rods way back in the 70's. When I was a heavy line engine mechanic for Cadillac (remember the 425, 472, and 500 Cubic inch mastadons of engines in those?), I would routinely decarbon an engine I was going to tear down for internal repairs using good old water! The water turns into steam in the combustion chamber, and, as steam, it's volume drastically increases. Problem is, you can hydrostatically lock up an engine in a heart beat and cause catastrophic damage!

When I took the engine apart, it was as clean as new! ALL carbon was gone!

Using a carbon cleaner MUST be done with a non combustible chemical. Otherwise, it is consumed as fuel by the engine BEFORE it can do any good.

The oil additive from ATS claims to clean carbon from the UNDERSIDE of the engine, i.e. the underneath of the pistons, the crankcase, rods, etc.

The ATS fuel additive REALLY cleaned dirty fuel injectors. I know because I used it on my own cars! THEY (ATS) claim that the fuel treatment decarbons too. So does API SP rated motor oil. That and API SN-plus employ new chemistry to address this issue to alleviate carbon related LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition), which damages pistons and upper rings.

Again, if one is EXTREMELY diligent, water can and will do a very good job of cleaning carbon. Then, once used, the oil and filter must be changed! With our old hot rods, we changed the oil all the time, so it seemed!

PS: My old hotrod back then was a 1966 Galaxie 500XL running a 428CJ, C-6 auto trans, 3:71 posi diff gear with 31 splined axles

Mister Luck · Aug 10, 2022

Sherman Bird said:
I will share THE most effective carbon remover that I've EVER used. I do NOT generally tell about it because it CAN and WILL damage or destroy an engine if not used properly. WATER! Yes, good old water! We used to install secondary misting water injection systems to keep the internals clean on our hot rods way back in the 70's. When I was a heavy line engine mechanic for Cadillac (remember the 425, 472, and 500 Cubic inch mastadons of engines in those?), I would routinely decarbon an engine I was going to tear down for internal repairs using good old water! The water turns into steam in the combustion chamber, and, as steam, it's volume drastically increases. Problem is, you can hydrostatically lock up an engine in a heart beat and cause catastrophic damage!

When I took the engine apart, it was as clean as new! ALL carbon was gone!

Using a carbon cleaner MUST be done with a non combustible chemical. Otherwise, it is consumed as fuel by the engine BEFORE it can do any good.

The oil additive from ATS claims to clean carbon from the UNDERSIDE of the engine, i.e. the underneath of the pistons, the crankcase, rods, etc.

The ATS fuel additive REALLY cleaned dirty fuel injectors. I know because I used it on my own cars! THEY (ATS) claim that the fuel treatment decarbons too. So does API SP rated motor oil. That and API SN-plus employ new chemistry to address this issue to alleviate carbon related LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition), which damages pistons and upper rings.

Again, if one is EXTREMELY diligent, water can and will do a very good job of cleaning carbon. Then, once used, the oil and filter must be changed! With our old hot rods, we changed the oil all the time, so it seemed!

PS: My old hotrod back then was a 1966 Galaxie 500XL running a 428CJ, C-6 auto trans, 3:71 posi diff gear with 31 splined axles

I remember those from 40 + years ago but mixed with methanol it tends to be less corrosive on the injection pump, fittings, pickups and screens.

One guy used a drip H20 system on his carb at the time he was the service manager everyone there were into Fords 390’s 351’s 429’s Torino’s, Ranchero’s, Interceptors, Mustangs…
… the station owner previously was a factory transmission assembly line installer C4’s , C6’s
I saw how filthy exhaust burning diesels would miraculously become smoke free after changing their oil to the Chevron Delo 10/40
Can not beat a quality oil regularly changed to help maintain your engine.

Justin33 · Aug 11, 2022

Sherman Bird said:
I will share THE most effective carbon remover that I've EVER used. I do NOT generally tell about it because it CAN and WILL damage or destroy an engine if not used properly. WATER! Yes, good old water! We used to install secondary misting water injection systems to keep the internals clean on our hot rods way back in the 70's. When I was a heavy line engine mechanic for Cadillac (remember the 425, 472, and 500 Cubic inch mastadons of engines in those?), I would routinely decarbon an engine I was going to tear down for internal repairs using good old water! The water turns into steam in the combustion chamber, and, as steam, it's volume drastically increases. Problem is, you can hydrostatically lock up an engine in a heart beat and cause catastrophic damage!

When I took the engine apart, it was as clean as new! ALL carbon was gone!

Using a carbon cleaner MUST be done with a non combustible chemical. Otherwise, it is consumed as fuel by the engine BEFORE it can do any good.

The oil additive from ATS claims to clean carbon from the UNDERSIDE of the engine, i.e. the underneath of the pistons, the crankcase, rods, etc.

The ATS fuel additive REALLY cleaned dirty fuel injectors. I know because I used it on my own cars! THEY (ATS) claim that the fuel treatment decarbons too. So does API SP rated motor oil. That and API SN-plus employ new chemistry to address this issue to alleviate carbon related LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition), which damages pistons and upper rings.

Again, if one is EXTREMELY diligent, water can and will do a very good job of cleaning carbon. Then, once used, the oil and filter must be changed! With our old hot rods, we changed the oil all the time, so it seemed!

PS: My old hotrod back then was a 1966 Galaxie 500XL running a 428CJ, C-6 auto trans, 3:71 posi diff gear with 31 splined axles

I was just asking if ATS you spoke of was like using sea foam in the gas. My girlfriend bought some seafoam for her fusion but I’m undecided on if I think that’s a good idea to put in with the gas.

JNelson · Aug 11, 2022

Back in the day if the old 5.9 was running a little rough or had a little white smoke, I would drain the fuel canister and fill it up with seafoam and reinstall the filter. I’d run it like I stole for about 20 minutes. Worked great. But that was a diesel.

Sherman Bird · Aug 12, 2022

Justin33 said:
I was just asking if ATS you spoke of was like using sea foam in the gas. My girlfriend bought some seafoam for her fusion but I’m undecided on if I think that’s a good idea to put in with the gas.

The ATS fuel additive is NOT a carbon treatment, per se. It is a VERY EFFECTIVE fuel injector cleaner and it cleans the fuel pump. It incidentally cleans carbon in the upper cylinders, but not as well as direct intake treatment.
There is really no way to remove carbon from the cylinders by putting an additive in the fuel tank IF carbon is built up to the point off affecting cold starts and driveability. Anything used in the tank can aide in carbon cleaning in the cylinders as a booster, not a primary treatment. Seafoam, The GM foamy spray I use, the BG carbon cleaners that I use ALL are administered through the intake either through a vacuum fitting (least effective, or through the throttle plate/bore (best option).

Also, one must be VERY VERY careful NOT to flood the secondary intake runner system on an engine with staged intake controls. A guy might hydro lock the engine, causing catastrophic damages when that person goes driving the vehicle post carbon treatment and punches the throttle, dumping the liquid down the intake ports en mass and suddenly.

JimmyP · Oct 14, 2022

Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one. I've been dealing with lifter tick since I got this truck at 72k miles. At 106k now. First I put Redline 5w30 in. Helped a bit. Next oil change, Redline 5w30 and Lubeguard Biotech. No change. It's not an exhaust manifold leak because I did have that around 90k and got it fixed.

So I'm pretty set on trying Seafoam. I want to treat it and drive 50 miles or so, then immediately change the oil (based on some of the threads I've read on here). I've seen comments about putting it in the crank case, throttle body, vac lines, etc...What's the best method specifically to try to treat lifter tick?

06 Dodge · Oct 14, 2022

JimmyP said:
Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one. I've been dealing with lifter tick since I got this truck at 72k miles. At 106k now. First I put Redline 5w30 in. Helped a bit. Next oil change, Redline 5w30 and Lubeguard Biotech. No change. It's not an exhaust manifold leak because I did have that around 90k and got it fixed.

So I'm pretty set on trying Seafoam. I want to treat it and drive 50 miles or so, then immediately change the oil (based on some of the threads I've read on here). I've seen comments about putting it in the crank case, throttle body, vac lines, etc...What's the best method specifically to try to treat lifter tick?

My self I would not use Seafoam in my oil, why not try this instead Rislone 100qr Engine Oil Treatment

Burla · Oct 14, 2022

JimmyP said:
Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one. I've been dealing with lifter tick since I got this truck at 72k miles. At 106k now. First I put Redline 5w30 in. Helped a bit. Next oil change, Redline 5w30 and Lubeguard Biotech. No change. It's not an exhaust manifold leak because I did have that around 90k and got it fixed.

So I'm pretty set on trying Seafoam. I want to treat it and drive 50 miles or so, then immediately change the oil (based on some of the threads I've read on here). I've seen comments about putting it in the crank case, throttle body, vac lines, etc...What's the best method specifically to try to treat lifter tick?

Not that I agree with this strategy, but if this is your move it needs to be in crank case before an oil change. It has worked before, but the worry is the solvent cleaning away any film that redline has left. It might get louder, but at least you will have some answers. I would suggest a uoa with this mileage, it will let you know how bad it is. What filter do you have on there?

Dodge 1500 4X4 · Oct 15, 2022

Burla said:
, but the worry is the solvent cleaning away any film that redline has left. It might get louder, but at least you will have some answers.

I agree also what about all of the varnish and gum that are in most bearings and journals that have been in there since new, engine flush and seafoam will wash all that away and will increase tolerances in mains and rods, seen it happen all too often, don't put anything in the oil but a lubricant!!!

Phillyrube · Oct 15, 2022

We used to flush old engines with ATF and Varsol or Kerosene. In my case JP5. Really benefitted the Detroit 53 snd 71 series diesels.

JimmyP · Oct 16, 2022

Burla said:
Not that I agree with this strategy, but if this is your move it needs to be in crank case before an oil change. It has worked before, but the worry is the solvent cleaning away any film that redline has left. It might get louder, but at least you will have some answers. I would suggest a uoa with this mileage, it will let you know how bad it is. What filter do you have on there?

I have a royal purple on there. How do I do a UOA? I get my oil changed at a jiffy lube, not sure if they can give me the old stuff.

I gotta try something. The tick is driving me crazy and redline + lubeguard hasn't done much to help.

Burla · Oct 16, 2022

JimmyP said:
I have a royal purple on there. How do I do a UOA? I get my oil changed at a jiffy lube, not sure if they can give me the old stuff.

I gotta try something. The tick is driving me crazy and redline + lubeguard hasn't done much to help.

did the tick change at all with any oil change? If not it is more likely to be exhaust bolts or even a valve spring.

JimmyP · Oct 16, 2022

Burla said:
did the tick change at all with any oil change? If not it is more likely to be exhaust bolts or even a valve spring.

Not much. A little at first but it seems just as loud now as before redline and lubeguard. It's not exhaust manifold bolts, had those replaced about 12,000 miles ago.

Burla · Oct 16, 2022

You could be right, but I need better logic to buy it then I had it done 12k miles ago. I would check them again if it were me. Fresh oils has vii's that are like super lubricators until they break. It is possible you have a lifter far out of tolerance which would tick despite these features of fresh oil, but generally speaking any oil change usually produces differing ticks and different time. Can you have someone try a couple different rpm's in park with you listening from the side of engine bay? see what rpm's stop tick. did it tick right when the pedal was off throttle.

Adding Seafoam into a Hemi prior to an oil change

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