Oil Filter Thread

Travis8352 said:

Chances are they think "filters are filters their all the same"

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Could be. Very high possibility but then again, at least not all dealerships are like that but I did find it awfully interesting when they pretty much made it sound like as long as I use a Mopar oil filter, if anything ever happened where I had an engine failure that was deemed due to the filter that it wouldn’t go against my warranty. But if it was an aftermarket oil filter that failed, they acted like they could void my warranty it. It’s funny how a failed Mopar filter would be fine but if you use anything else then it’s not. They even told me that not too long ago before that conversation took place that they had an engine claim that got denied because supposedly the guy put on a faulty K&N oil filter that leaked all of his oil out past one side of the gasket because the threads in the filter weren’t cut straight causing it to not tighten up evenly and square around the whole sealing surface when he spun the filter on.

EdGs said:

I bought my truck at a Honda dealer, and they had done an oil change (with a cheap filter), but the windshield sticker was only a 5k interval, except for that 1st one, near the sticker mileage

No mention of synthetic oil anywhere that I saw, but figured since the OCI was 10k miles, full synthetic was the way to go. All changes by OCI as well.

I did recently start using 5w-30 the last couple of changes, no noticeable differences I can see.

I'm still trying to get my head wrapped around spending $90 for some RL.

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The oil change interval’s not 10,000 miles; if you look closer in your book, it says your oil changes should not exceed 10,000 miles or one year and since they pretty much preach following the oil change meter on your dash, your interval according to that could be anywhere from probably 6,500-7000 miles to almost 10,000 miles. That’s why I don’t use it. Well, I partially take that back, the only thing I use my oil life meter for is the little odometer on that screen page that resets whenever you reset the meter after doing an oil change. Makes it nice for keeping track of how many miles you have on your oil change without having to use any of your other odometers or write anything down.

You may not see any differences using that 5W-30 but at least one things for sure, that 5W-30 will have a lot more of an additive package in it than the 5w-20 does.

But yeah, that red line’s pretty expensive stuff but if you’re out of warranty and if you’re concerned about it enough to be interested in trying to protect yourself from the hemi tick then that $90 for oil is a whole lot cheaper than a whole new motor. I’d probably be using it myself if I didn’t have lifetime warranty.

Burla said:

If you dont have hemi tick being that your truck is 8 years old, I don't see any reason to run it. See the when not to use redline thread.

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I always figured redline would still be good for a cam and lifter failure preventative even if you didn’t have the hemi tick being that aside from cheap parts, poor lubrication also plays a role; or at least I thought it did.

corneileous said:

Could be. Very high possibility but then again, at least not all dealerships are like that but I did find it awfully interesting when they pretty much made it sound like as long as I use a Mopar oil filter, if anything ever happened where I had an engine failure that was deemed due to the filter that it wouldn’t go against my warranty. But if it was an aftermarket oil filter that failed, they acted like they could void my warranty it. It’s funny how a failed Mopar filter would be fine but if you use anything else then it’s not. They even told me that not too long ago before that conversation took place that they had an engine claim that got denied because supposedly the guy put on a faulty K&N oil filter that leaked all of his oil out past one side of the gasket because the threads in the filter weren’t cut straight causing it to not tighten up evenly and square around the whole sealing surface when he spun the filter on.

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And because of the warranty, 5/100.000km power train,every oil change is done by the dealer, but after ,I think to change for 5w30.

Use the biggest that fits that's available, is the point, within the synthetic media filter class.
For me, my only choice is 20-500.
For guys who can squeeze in a 20-820, I'd go to Fram XG2 next, then RP 20-500, then Fram XG 10060, in order of availability.

That's all this is about. Supply shortages for who knows what reasons.

corneileous said:

I always figured redline would still be good for a cam and lifter failure preventative even if you didn’t have the hemi tick being that aside from cheap parts, poor lubrication also plays a role; or at least I thought it did.

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Exactly. Why wouldn't it? Why would anyone wait for a failure to occur before trying to mitigate it, knowing what this Forum knows? I developed the tick in my 2012 and 5.7. At the time, reading BITOG, went from M1 to PUP and it stopped. Spoke volumes to me.

This Forum went far deeper. Now I use only Red Line and RP filters so I don't develop a tick.

Burn2k12Ram said:

More for those that need it that price is more than worth it. If not then no need for it.

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Good point, was more curiousity on my part, so many here swear by it.

In my favor, I put alot of miles on my truck, but I have a decent mix of hwy/city conditions, with prob 65% being hwy.

HEMIMANN said:

Exactly. Why wouldn't it? Why would anyone wait for a failure to occur before trying to mitigate it, knowing what this Forum knows? I developed the tick in my 2012 and 5.7. At the time, reading BITOG, went from M1 to PUP and it stopped. Spoke volumes to me.

This Forum went far deeper. Now I use only Red Line and RP filters so I don't develop a tick.

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What Mobil 1 were you using? And what filter? Now that Mobil 1 is once again a Chrysler-approved oil and being that I’ve had good luck with it in all my other previous vehicles, I think I’ve made up my mind to use the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20 and a Fram XG10060 filter when I change my oil at the end of the month and depending on how the Blackstone report comes back on the Schaeffers 9000 and then next year on the Mobil, I might just stick with the Mobil 1.

Out of all the other mobil 1 products, even over the truck and SUV formula, I just thought the extended performance was the one that seemed like maybe it has the better additive package even though I won’t be going nowhere near the amount of miles it says it good for. I thought about the high mileage and the extended performance high mileage and even though that’s what I run in the soon-to-be wife’s Honda Civic, I figure those two were probably a lot more geared towards the detergent side for an older engine.

corneileous said:

The oil change interval’s not 10,000 miles; if you look closer in your book, it says your oil changes should not exceed 10,000 miles or one year and since they pretty much preach following the oil change meter on your dash, your interval according to that could be anywhere from probably 6,500-7000 miles to almost 10,000 miles. That’s why I don’t use it. Well, I partially take that back, the only thing I use my oil life meter for is the little odometer on that screen page that resets whenever you reset the meter after doing an oil change. Makes it nice for keeping track of how many miles you have on your oil change without having to use any of your other odometers or write anything down.

You may not see any differences using that 5W-30 but at least one things for sure, that 5W-30 will have a lot more of an additive package in it than the 5w-20 does.

But yeah, that red line’s pretty expensive stuff but if you’re out of warranty and if you’re concerned about it enough to be interested in trying to protect yourself from the hemi tick then that $90 for oil is a whole lot cheaper than a whole new motor. I’d probably be using it myself if I didn’t have lifetime warranty.

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My OCI meter is pretty spot on with 10k miles, I pay attention to it.

Also, with my driving conditions and distances, my oil changes are usually every 4-5 months or so.

EdGs said:

My OCI meter is pretty spot on with 10k miles, I pay attention to it.

Also, with my driving conditions and distances, my oil changes are usually every 4-5 months or so.

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Refresh my memory; as per the manual or I guess the manufacturer’s “recommendation”, are you supposed to let the percentage get down to 0% or close to it before you’re supposed to change the oil? That is of course unless it’s been a full year from the last time you changed it?

My very first oil change doesn’t really count because I had it changed at the dealer less than 2500 miles into my new pickup right after I bought it but after that was when I started changing it myself but the first time I changed it myself, I let the oil percentage meter go all the way down to about 20 or 25% just to see how many miles it would accumulate which was at just under 7000 miles so I guess if I would’ve let the percentage go down closer to zero, who knows….it probably would’ve been at least 9000 miles or a little bit closer to 10 so if that’s the case then I guess that’s considered “normal”.

Fast forward to now and my previous oil change before I put in the Schaeffers I’m currently using, I ran that Amsoil signature series 5W20 for a year and when I changed it this last fall, the oil life meter was down to almost 20% but I only had maybe a little over 6500 miles on the interval. Right now with the Schaeffers, I am at just under 5200 miles sitting at 35% on the oil life meter.

I guess I’d have to say that I understand if somebody puts a lot of miles down that they’d wanna stretch that interval out as far as they can but being that these engines have such a bad problem with the cam and lifters, I just don’t feel comfortable running my oil that long no matter what’s in the oil pan. I mean well, if there was an oil that I would trust to do that it would be with the Amsoil signature series and a Blackstone report that says I could go that far but still, I just think that many miles on this engine is pushing it.

Yes, I do have lifetime warranty and most people wouldn’t worry about it but as far as I’m concerned, I still don’t want to become a statistic and not only that, I don’t want to have to wait for upwards of two months while my truck’s in the shop getting a new engine even though all it would cost me is a 100 bucks. That’s why I go off of interval that’s no more than 6500 miles.

I hate to say it, but I do procrastinate a bit, so I am usually in the last 5% of my oil life.

I had planned to do mine an hour ago, but ended up doing some other stuff at my in-laws, so my oil change will have to be tomorrow night. My OCI is at about 3% as we speak. This wasn't procrastination, just ran out of time.

I am not knocking anyone that changes more often, either. Do what works for you. For me, life seems to get in my way.

EdGs said:

I hate to say it, but I do procrastinate a bit, so I am usually in the last 5% of my oil life.

I had planned to do mine an hour ago, but ended up doing some other stuff at my in-laws, so my oil change will have to be tomorrow night. My OCI is at about 3% as we speak. This wasn't procrastination, just ran out of time.

I am not knocking anyone that changes more often, either. Do what works for you. For me, life seems to get in my way.

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I get it and I’m the same, I don’t generally knock anybody that runs that many miles on their oil change, I just look at it like, if that’s a risk you’re OK with taking or if other things get in the way then that’s your business. I just have a problem with people who, even know they know there’s a problem with these engines, they go around telling everybody that you don’t have to use any of what they referred to as “boutique” oils and should be totally fine with running the same crap they put it at the factory with the cheap paper oil filters and totally dismissed the fact that the Hemi tick is partially because of lack of lubrication.

corneileous said:

I get it and I’m the same, I don’t generally knock anybody that runs that many miles on their oil change, I just look at it like, if that’s a risk you’re OK with taking or if other things get in the way then that’s your business. I just have a problem with people who, even know they know there’s a problem with these engines, they go around telling everybody that you don’t have to use any of what they referred to as “boutique” oils and should be totally fine with running the same crap they put it at the factory with the cheap paper oil filters and totally dismissed the fact that the Hemi tick is partially because of lack of lubrication.

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This thread has a ton of data to back up oil change intervals and oil choices
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/blackstone-used-oil-analysis.113465/

danielmid said:

This thread has a ton of data to back up oil change intervals and oil choices
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/blackstone-used-oil-analysis.113465/

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thanks- that and the syn thread or any redline thread, there are plenty.

As promised here is the difference between the three. Don’t have a rp 20-820 to share. Well I do but it’s still on my truck from last oil change. To me it looks like the holes on the fram look smaller but it has more obviously. Also the fram looks to be bigger than the Amsoil.

Thanks, that is very informative.

corneileous said:

What Mobil 1 were you using? And what filter? Now that Mobil 1 is once again a Chrysler-approved oil and being that I’ve had good luck with it in all my other previous vehicles, I think I’ve made up my mind to use the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20 and a Fram XG10060 filter when I change my oil at the end of the month and depending on how the Blackstone report comes back on the Schaeffers 9000 and then next year on the Mobil, I might just stick with the Mobil 1.

Out of all the other mobil 1 products, even over the truck and SUV formula, I just thought the extended performance was the one that seemed like maybe it has the better additive package even though I won’t be going nowhere near the amount of miles it says it good for. I thought about the high mileage and the extended performance high mileage and even though that’s what I run in the soon-to-be wife’s Honda Civic, I figure those two were probably a lot more geared towards the detergent side for an older engine.

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This is 7 years ago, I believe I was running Mobil 1 5W-20 per FCA viscosity recommendations. I was running the Fram Ultra XG Oil Filter, whatever number that was. I don't know what Mobil 1 formula was at the time, since they've messed around with formulations, not just for API, either.

Back then, (not now) when I changed to PUP 5W-20 the 5.7 Hemi not only stopped ticking, it stopped noticeably consuming oil, too. It had been using up to a quart per 5,000 miles, according to the dipstick reading. Not bad, you might say. Except that PUP consumed NONE! (noticeably on the dipstick, that is).

Back in those days I suspect Mobil was still decimated and cheapened by Exxon from the 1998(?) takeover.

Anyway, I tried PUP on my GM Big Block in my RV too. The recommended VG is 10W-30. Sure enough - it went from using a half quart of M1 in 3,000 miles / annually (we don't go far) to NONE for PUP.

Two completely different engines from different manufacturers. They both consumed M1 and not PUP in the same VG's. You might say that could be due to low cylinder wall wear, but I'd wager it was sticky piston rings, judging from the touting SOPUS did about M1 ring sticking in those days.

Been with PUP ever since. Except for Hemi, of course.

EdGs said:

I hate to say it, but I do procrastinate a bit, so I am usually in the last 5% of my oil life.

I had planned to do mine an hour ago, but ended up doing some other stuff at my in-laws, so my oil change will have to be tomorrow night. My OCI is at about 3% as we speak. This wasn't procrastination, just ran out of time.

I am not knocking anyone that changes more often, either. Do what works for you. For me, life seems to get in my way.

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Are you kidding? It happened all the time to me when I was working beaucoup hours for the man. Most of my buddies, too. We do what we can. Carry on!

buckeyexx said:

As promised here is the difference between the three. Don’t have a rp 20-820 to share. Well I do but it’s still on my truck from last oil change. To me it looks like the holes on the fram look smaller but it has more obviously. Also the fram looks to be bigger than the Amsoil.

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Fram's end cap appears expensive to produce compared to the others. A raised spud boss out of the downward stamped plate? Hmmmm.

Nothing I know that would matter to significant flow restriction difference, just a strange anomaly. Usually competitors would trend toward common lowest-cost manufacturing designs.

HEMIMANN said:

Fram's end cap appears expensive to produce compared to the others. A raised spud boss out of the downward stamped plate? Hmmmm.

Nothing I know that would matter to significant flow restriction difference, just a strange anomaly. Usually competitors would trend toward common lowest-cost manufacturing designs.

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Doesn’t seem too bad(as far as being expensive to produce) seems they just dip it in a tar like substance but I tell you my previous oil filter was the xg2 and it does make it easy to just grip and take off even if on very tight(yes I religiously tighten). I watch my oil pressure like a hawk and noticed pressure was exactly the same between the xg2 and rp20-820. Both using PUP oil. If both RP filters become no more I have no problem using the seeming more available xg2(can get easily at Walmart)