2002 Ram Diff Cover Bolts

Rear diff cover is leaking lube profusely.

Handy SEARCH has given me how to identify the axle to get the correct replacement cover, the lube needed, and the torque specs for the cover bolts but I can't find any reference with what to do for horribly rusted, disfigured cover bolts. I'm hoping to pound whatever size of socket I can onto each bolt to hopefully get them out. But three look like they're even beyond that point; there's like no head material left whatsoever. Anyone run into the same problem and can share what you did?

Can you get a set off vise grips on them. Maybe that will turn them.

Thanks, but unfortunately no. Even tho the cover isn't arriving until Monday, i piled on some PBlaster this morning and just tried about an hour ago on one of the three that don't even look like bolts. Completely disintegrated down to the cover. I'm hoping once the cover is off there might be a little stub of the bolt exposed and relatively solid to try vice grips but I can't imagine there will be. I've never had much luck with bolt extractors and am hit and miss on drilling out straight and tapping in an awkward position. One would be bad enough but I'm looking at possibly the majority of them. I am hoping to hear from someone in a rust belt like me that already experienced the problem with the diff bolts and figured out the best way to do it.

Sounds like you need a set of torches. Or a welder can you weld a bolt or a nut onto any part of the bolt head

What really sucks is from the factory those bolts go on with Loctite.

I've got to imagine they have been removed before but just be prepared for that. You'll need a propane or map gas torch to heat them up if there is loctite.

It's possible they protrude into pumpkin and you might be able to get them from inside. At least you know it won't be rusty in there. If that is an option it may be easer to take them into the case instead of backing them back out. Don't drop them.

I'm a drill and easy out man. If you don't have anything you can bite onto you probably can't weld anything to it either. You need a pointed center punch to get a starting point and the right drill bits. I like the Milwaukee titanium chisel point bits. They don't walk. Take your time, start small, and don't force things as you go up in size or you will snap your drill bit. My problems were always the result of my own impatience. Pushing too hard on the drill bits and snaping them.

mikeymopar said:

Rear diff cover is leaking lube profusely.

Handy SEARCH has given me how to identify the axle to get the correct replacement cover, the lube needed, and the torque specs for the cover bolts but I can't find any reference with what to do for horribly rusted, disfigured cover bolts. I'm hoping to pound whatever size of socket I can onto each bolt to hopefully get them out. But three look like they're even beyond that point; there's like no head material left whatsoever. Anyone run into the same problem and can share what you did?

Click to expand...

You live in Michigan and you are just noticing the rust now???

When was the last time you changed the diff fluid?

Oliver Closehauf said:

I've got to imagine they have been removed before but just be prepared for that. You'll need a propane or map gas torch to heat them up if there is loctite.

It's possible they protrude into pumpkin and you might be able to get them from inside. At least you know it won't be rusty in there. If that is an option it may be easer to take them into the case instead of backing them back out. Don't drop them.

Click to expand...

Picked it up at a state auction Oct '20 for only $3600. Threw a plow on it last year and was doing all the maintenance on it this summer after the plow season. Looks like it's never been touched in the 100k it has on it. Bolts are just disintegrating.

Good idea with backing the bolts out the opposite way if they do stick thru into diff. Got torch and bits from previous vehicles but like I said, not too proficient at that. Guessing the patience thing like you said.

Zoe Saldana said:

You live in Michigan and you are just noticing the rust now???

When was the last time you changed the diff fluid?

Click to expand...

See above. Only got so much $$ to spend on a plow vehicle that doesn't see much street time. Bought the truck in '20, following winter got the plow before everything maintenance-wise cos ran out of time before the snow hit. Gotta plow our mile long driveway or we're stuck. Already have kicked myself for not doing it before the plow but other stuff happened and we get a lot of snow.

mikeymopar said:

Picked it up at a state auction Oct '20 for only $3600. Threw a plow on it last year and was doing all the maintenance on it this summer after the plow season. Looks like it's never been touched in the 100k it has on it. Bolts are just disintegrating.

Good idea with backing the bolts out the opposite way if they do stick thru into diff. Got torch and bits from previous vehicles but like I said, not too proficient at that. Guessing the patience thing like you said.

See above. Only got so much $$ to spend on a plow vehicle that doesn't see much street time. Bought the truck in '20, following winter got the plow before everything maintenance-wise cos ran out of time before the snow hit. Gotta plow our mile long driveway or we're stuck. Already have kicked myself for not doing it before the plow but other stuff happened and we get a lot of snow.

Click to expand...

Look into Fluid Film

Just following up...
Yeah, pretty much as expected and what @Oliver Closehauf said, no good and easy-ish way. Torch, easy outs, and even retapping one. Not a single thing was easy. Took about 8 hours over two days. Doesn't help laying on the ground and dealing with arthritis eveywhere. Getting to the point that $200 wouldve been worth it to have a mechanic do it.

Thanks for the suggestions. Especially the Fluid Film, @Zoe Saldana. A bit late for the truck but can definitely use something like that in an area or two on my '68 Charger.

mikeymopar said:

on my '68 Charger

Click to expand...

Awe man, that's my dream car right there.

Fluid Film can slow down/stop? rust ... look into it.

mikeymopar said:

Just following up...
Yeah, pretty much as expected and what @Oliver Closehauf said, no good and easy-ish way. Torch, easy outs, and even retapping one. Not a single thing was easy. Took about 8 hours over two days. Doesn't help laying on the ground and dealing with arthritis eveywhere. Getting to the point that $200 wouldve been worth it to have a mechanic do it.

Thanks for the suggestions. Especially the Fluid Film, @Zoe Saldana. A bit late for the truck but can definitely use something like that in an area or two on my '68 Charger.

Click to expand...

r