ZF 8 speed transmission fluid change

Hey y’all. Been a reader for a while and this is my first post.

Tackled a transmission fluid change in my 2014 Ram 1500 5.7L hemi with the ZF 8 speed @ 100k miles. Researched for weeks on how to do it, the information out there is somewhat confusing and incomplete but we were able to get it done.

Wanted to share a little bit about the experience…I bought 2 fluid pans, the aluminum PPE heavy duty one, and a cheap Chinese aluminum one from RockAuto. Installed the cheap one first to try and save some money and boy was that a bad idea. The cheap pan fit properly and bolted up just fine BUT it was about 1/8th of inch too shallow. It put pressure on the parking mechanism which didn’t allow it to shift into park properly. Major bummer. We had to remove and drain that pan and do the whole process again, this time with the American made premium PPE pan. It worked flawlessly and looks badass. It took about 7 quarts of fluid.

Here are some photos of the supposedly “sealed for life” transmission fluid vs the new fluid. Old fluid was a brown/grey color, yuck. I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF to replace it (it is rated for the 8 speed and it’s wayyyy cheaper than OEM). My transmission seems to be MUCH happier after a bath. She shifts like a dream now!

This is a very doable project. Most nerve racking part is getting the rear tires jacked up and having to climb under the truck while it’s running.

Was the low cost aluminum pan from Rock Auto an Autotecnica CY1214647PRM by chance? I bought one of those some months back off the Rock for around $85 and haven't used it yet. I have a thread here with pics, etc. I haven't used it yet on my 2019 Ram 1500 classic, but planned to in a few months once I exceed 60K miles on the truck.

It may be paper weight status now.. Ugh..

Thanks for taking the time to post your experiences on this.

Yes! That was the exact one I got from RockAuto. DON’T USE IT. It will prevent your transmission from going into park properly and throw all sorts of codes!

Get the PPE Heavy Duty Pan
if you can spring for it…it’s about $300 but it’s solid and has a replaceable filter. It takes 2 extra quarts of fluid and you will need to reuse the old gasket and bolt spacers from the old pan (or just buy a new gasket). So take that into consideration as well. Cheers!

If you can do a step-by-step write up I would love to read it!

Any reason you went aftermarket for a pan? Can you not just by OEM, and why replace the pan anyway?

ramffml said:

If you can do a step-by-step write up I would love to read it!

Any reason you went aftermarket for a pan? Can you not just by OEM, and why replace the pan anyway?

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The filter is integrated into the OEM pan, hence changing the filter requires changing the whole pan. The PPE pan has a replaceable filter for around $30USD.

ramffml said:

If you can do a step-by-step write up I would love to read it!

Any reason you went aftermarket for a pan? Can you not just by OEM, and why replace the pan anyway?

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These guys are the cheapest in Canada for the PPE pan.

Wild one said:

These guys are the cheapest in Canada for the PPE pan.

Heavy-Duty Aluminum Transmission Pan - Ram 1500 Brushed - PPE 228053010

Why dispose of your factory filter And factory plastic transmission pan assembly? PPE has engineered an exclusive removable and replaceable oil filter. That means unlike the factory part, theres no need to discard the filter pan assembly every time you service your trucks transmission. This...

canadiandieselonline.ca

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I like the idea of it holding more fluid, that's a nice bonus.

Any chance that works on the 5th gen ZF's?

ramffml said:

I like the idea of it holding more fluid, that's a nice bonus.

Any chance that works on the 5th gen ZF's?

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According to PPE it fits the 8HP75,so it should fit a 5th Gen to.

https://ppepower.com/collections/do...t-aluminum-8hp70-8hp75?variant=42081877524723

ramffml said:

If you can do a step-by-step write up I would love to read it!

Any reason you went aftermarket for a pan? Can you not just by OEM, and why replace the pan anyway?

Click to expand...

Sure thing! Here’s the YouTube video I followed that had all the steps if you want to look it over. I have most of it typed out already, it may be too long to post lol.

I went with the aftermarket for three reasons:
1. It has the relatively cheap replaceable filter that doesn’t require you to throw the whole pan out when you do another fluid change (since the filter and pan are integrated on the OEM)
2. The first $100 Chinese replacement pan I installed almost destroyed my transmission. PPE is made in USA and saved the day.
3. PPE pan is made of solid aluminum. Much more durable than the plastic OEM pans. Trust me when I say that thing is solid!! Weighs like 10 pounds. Probably will last way longer than the truck itself lol

Hey guys, i've read most of the transmission fluid change threads on the forum and still have a question...

So here's the procedure as i understand:

1. jack up the rear axle to level the trans
2. drain the fluid and drop the pan
3. reinstall new pan
4. fill till fluid comes out the fill hole
5. start engine, run thru gears and get it to shift to 2nd
6. don't exceed 180° ( i think...) trans temp
7. add more fluid till it runs out the fill hole

So here's my question... can i shut off the engine when i go back under to refill after running it thru the gears? I'm really nervous about being under the truck when it's running. I would check the level several times and fill as necessary.

Thanks!

Transmission temp cannot exceed 122° F during the fill processs, and it must be running.

@Wild one has copiously posted the instructions throughout this site. Follow them.

Also, before you drain the fluid, crack the fill plug loose on the trans. They are well known to be gorilla-****** (fist ed, are you fvcking kidding me, censors?) when installed. This will ensure that you will be able to add fluid to your transmission.

aces-n-eights said:

Hey guys, i've read most of the transmission fluid change threads on the forum and still have a question...

So here's the procedure as i understand:

1. jack up the rear axle to level the trans
2. drain the fluid and drop the pan
3. reinstall new pan
4. fill till fluid comes out the fill hole
5. start engine, run thru gears and get it to shift to 2nd
6. don't exceed 180° ( i think...) trans temp
7. add more fluid till it runs out the fill hole

So here's my question... can i shut off the engine when i go back under to refill after running it thru the gears? I'm really nervous about being under the truck when it's running. I would check the level several times and fill as necessary.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Transmission temp needs to be between 86 F and 122 F (30-50 C) when you fill after you start the engine. This is ABSOLUTELY essential. Do not fill when the transmission is over or under that. I repeat….DO NOT! You should be able to monitor the temp on the truck’s menu.

And the truck needs to be running the whole time after you fill the first time around. Yes it’s nerve racking but you’re only gonna be under there for a couple minutes. Wear heat protective gloves, those exhaust pipes can burn you!

Side note, in between steps 4 and 5 make sure you put the fill plug back on half way or so. You don’t want to spill fluid out when you start the engine. Cheers

aces-n-eights said:

Hey guys, i've read most of the transmission fluid change threads on the forum and still have a question...

So here's the procedure as i understand:

1. jack up the rear axle to level the trans
2. drain the fluid and drop the pan
3. reinstall new pan
4. fill till fluid comes out the fill hole
5. start engine, run thru gears and get it to shift to 2nd
6. don't exceed 180° ( i think...) trans temp
7. add more fluid till it runs out the fill hole

So here's my question... can i shut off the engine when i go back under to refill after running it thru the gears? I'm really nervous about being under the truck when it's running. I would check the level several times and fill as necessary.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Do not shut the truck off until you have the plug reinstalled,other wise you'll have one hell'va mess .

aces-n-eights said:

Hey guys, i've read most of the transmission fluid change threads on the forum and still have a question...

So here's the procedure as i understand:

1. jack up the rear axle to level the trans
2. drain the fluid and drop the pan
3. reinstall new pan
4. fill till fluid comes out the fill hole
5. start engine, run thru gears and get it to shift to 2nd
6. don't exceed 180° ( i think...) trans temp
7. add more fluid till it runs out the fill hole

So here's my question... can i shut off the engine when i go back under to refill after running it thru the gears? I'm really nervous about being under the truck when it's running. I would check the level several times and fill as necessary.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

No you can not shut the truck off while filling. The torque converter fills while it’s running, if you turn it off the converter drains and you get a big mess and wasted fluid all over the floor. Don’t shut the truck off unless the fill plug is reinstalled.

I did this last year, here is my post. i hope it helps. good luck
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/845re-transmission-upgrade.175258/

My question is: How is Maxlife ATF and ZF Lifeguard 8 or Mopar 8 speed oil at all the same and safe to mix? because you're mixing two different kinds of ATF. the ZF stuff is way thinner as well if i recall. Even when the ZF original fluid is really old isn't it still a much thinner trans oil than ATF? idk I personallywouldn't use Valvoline Maxlife ATF to mix with ZF LG8

**Edit** I have read on here that apparently ZF approved MaxLife ATF for use in their transmissions but does anyone have a link of proof from ZF? I will begin searching.

I did locate this approved sheet from Valvoline official website just now. So valvoline says their fluid will work with ZF 8/9 transmissions that normally take ZF LG 8 fluid. I still say do it at your own risk. that information I'm still waiting on ZF to confirm it from their end because it would definitely give me a warm fuzzy but doubt they will admit it as i'm sure they want us buying their stuff.

K guys, now I know how these things work and typically a company will never recommend another unless they supply to other said company; however I'm not personally comfortable using Maxlife ATF as an alternative to ZF fluids. Use the information from ZF below how you see fit but do not be surprised if it does possibly cause issues. I'm hoping ZF is just not happy that people have found a loophole to their ******** high price.

RodRamCar said:

K guys, now I know how these things work and typically a company will never recommend another unless they supply to other said company; however I'm not personally comfortable using Maxlife ATF as an alternative to ZF fluids. Use the information from ZF below how you see fit but do not be surprised if it does possibly cause issues. I'm hoping ZF is just not happy that people have found a loophole to their ******** high price.

View attachment 503522

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Cool, thank you for the info, Rod. I figured I’d take the risk with Maxlife since I’m cheap haha. I’m glad I did though! The first oil pan I put on caused an issue and I had to toss ALL the new fluid (plus had to redo the entire fill process) Wasted about $30 in Maxlife instead of $150+ in OEM.

I’ve put in about 700 miles since the fluid change. Haven’t noticed any major differences. I’m still getting the dreaded hard downshifts. That was an issue before ever changing the fluid though. I think maybe it’s computer related. Still trying to figure it out. Cheers

I posted this earlier to another ZF fluid thread but then found this more recent thread.

I’m getting ready to refresh my 8HP70 fluid and was searching for different fluids. I noticed Rock Auto offers the factory Mopar fluid as well as Pentosin. I’ve used Pentosin in the past in a 2000 VW Westfalia with good results and know they are a good refiner. I’ve also found Ravenol provides a compatible 8HP70 fluid and just recently found these guys.

https://www.triaxlubricants.com/triax-european-car-atf-full-synthetic

The Lifeguard and Mopar fluids are green and TRIAX says theirs is blue. Has anyone tried either the Pentosin, Ravenol, or this TRIAX brand? I’ve never heard of TRIAX before and at $9.50/qrt. for a case of 12 seems too good to be true. TIA