First Start after Cam Swap. Help pls!

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RamRod37

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I would start by doing a compression check on the P side bank see if you have cylinder down I hope you do not video can distort sounds sometime but that did sound like air being forced back into intake. start with comp test and see what that shows
 
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CunningStunt

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That knocking noise is when the engine starts missing violently, the tension pulley starts rocking back and forth very fast causing that noise. I hear no metal knocking at all from the engine.
 
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CunningStunt

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Yeah its missing and from video I could be wrong but sounds like I hissing noise from intake like a bent intake valve would do letting air shots in on compression stroke back through intake. And was that something knocking on video towards the end when you got cam close?
I would start by doing a compression check on the P side bank see if you have cylinder down I hope you do not video can distort sounds sometime but that did sound like air being forced back into intake. start with comp test and see what that shows
Would a bent valve throw that u1424 code with the p0300?
 
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CunningStunt

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So, testing compression on passenger side. One was 145 most others were 150-155...went ahead and tested driver side and first 2 cylinders were 150/155 then battery died. Gonna charge and finish compression there...

If those test fine I am again at a loss...no clue. Also, I disconnected the tipm under the fuse box, but the fuel pump still ran...? So I just disconnected injector connections so I could run the test, Thoughts?
 
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CunningStunt

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Compression on cylinder 5 was low. Took head off to take to machine shop tomorrow. Please wish me luck. The valves looked okay but I'm hopeful this is the culprit. I'm so ready to drive this truck again.
 

OcallyRamFam

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Compression on cylinder 5 was low. Took head off to take to machine shop tomorrow. Please wish me luck. The valves looked okay but I'm hopeful this is the culprit. I'm so ready to drive this truck again.
This is shot in dark but how many times did you pull heads? How many times did you reuse head gaskets?
 
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CunningStunt

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This is shot in dark but how many times did you pull heads? How many times did you reuse head gaskets?
I have not reused a single head gasket. I thought about it, but Oreillys had one in stock and I followed y'all's advice on not risking it.
 
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CunningStunt

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Question:

When I removed the head yesterday, I noticed there was fuel in the intake port on cylinder #3.

Before removing head and Intake, I had mentioned that the fuel pump was running when cranking to do compression test even though I disconnected the TIPM under fuse box... so I hooked fuel line up, disconnected injectors and turned over to check compression.

So, does the fuel inside an intake port indicate a bad injector maybe?
 

OcallyRamFam

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I guess theres a remote chance an injector failed but murphy always tells me that its something I just did causing a problem lol Have you checked that the coil isnt bad? For sure getting spark at 3?
 
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CunningStunt

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Haven't checked the coil but I don't keep track of which goes where...

Also, machine shop said my head was perfectly fine. No bent valves or bad guides...so I am thinking maybe a pushrod was in an oil gallery, causing valve to be open slightly. Cus if it ain't that it's piston rings...which is very unlikely as the truck was running fine when I parked it...
 

OcallyRamFam

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I would def rule out coil and injector before looking at rings. Confident you got timing and TDC accurate?

S
 
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CunningStunt

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I would def rule out coil and injector before looking at rings. Confident you got timing an
100% confident on timing. When I went back into her to verify timing, I removed oil pump and aligned marks per instructions. Verified timing marks before putting timing cover back on. I replaced the injector that corresponded to the port that was filled with gas.

I got head back on and rods/rockers and valve covers back on and installed plugs. Gonna do intake tomorrow, change oil, and give her a whirl.
 

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The cylinder that had gas in it, the cylinder wall is probably washed down. That's why you have low compression.

Squirt some oil in the cylinder, turn it over a few times, and the compression will come up.

I once bought a car that had no compression. The fuel injection had washed down the cylinders. Pulled the plugs, blew out the cylinders, squirted oil in the cylinders and spun it over a few times.

Blew the cylinders out again, installed spark plugs, hit the starter, and within a minute it was running like a top.
 
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CunningStunt

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Great news and a little bit of bad news.

Drivers side head is on. All peripherals reinstalled. Changed #3 fuel injector. She cranks and runs like a top!!!

Bad news...overheating. got up to 245 and stopped her and cooled her down.

I replaced water pump and thermostat when I first started this endeavor. I hear electric fan kick on around 220. But radiator don't feel hot and neither does the upper return hose unless I vent the cap, then it gets hot.

Thoughts?
 

Burn2k12Ram

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Great news and a little bit of bad news.

Drivers side head is on. All peripherals reinstalled. Changed #3 fuel injector. She cranks and runs like a top!!!

Bad news...overheating. got up to 245 and stopped her and cooled her down.

I replaced water pump and thermostat when I first started this endeavor. I hear electric fan kick on around 220. But radiator don't feel hot and neither does the upper return hose unless I vent the cap, then it gets hot.

Thoughts?
Change out that thermostat. And sounds like a clog somewhere. Sounds like thermostat never opens. Sometimes those t stats bad out the box.

So close. Almost there.
 
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RamRod37

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sounds crazy and do not take it the wrong way but did you put t-stat in right. some vehicles they will only go one way but seems like the ram t-stat housing has enough room to flip it upside down. also check your belt routing I have had some vehicles the belt would go on a couple different ways but wound spin water pump backwards
 
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CunningStunt

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I put the new t
sounds crazy and do not take it the wrong way but did you put t-stat in right. some vehicles they will only go one way but seems like the ram t-stat housing has enough room to flip it upside down. also check your belt routing I have had some vehicles the belt would go on a couple different ways but wound spin water pump backwari put new tstat in the way old one came out.
New one went in same way old one was. I will double check belt. Prolly get new tstat tomorrow.
 

RamRod37

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I put the new t

New one went in same way old one was. I will double check belt. Prolly get new tstat tomorrow.
either that or air locked not known a ram to do it but have had others do it run it to operation temp with rad cap off see if it starts blowing it out if it does let it cool off then fill it again may have to do this a time or two. like I said I have not had a ram to do this but my truck is the only gen 4 ram I have worked on lately
 

RamRod37

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I put the new t

New one went in same way old one was. I will double check belt. Prolly get new t-stat tomorrow.
Also you may know this but just in case this would cause your issue. Always fill a radiator first with engine cold then with cap still off start engine you will now be able add more coolant but wait do not cap it off yet you still have the block to fill let it get to operating temp just before t-stat opens sometime you will start to loose a little coolant out radiator cap but still wait once t-stat opens the coolant will pretty much disappear now you can fill it some more. It's not going to hurt anything at this point let it continue to run that will keep working air out you will more than likely have to add a couple more times once it can sit and run for 5min or so and not drop level now you may cap it off and check for pressure leaks.
 

jws123

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Great news and a little bit of bad news.

Drivers side head is on. All peripherals reinstalled. Changed #3 fuel injector. She cranks and runs like a top!!!

Bad news...overheating. got up to 245 and stopped her and cooled her down.

I replaced water pump and thermostat when I first started this endeavor. I hear electric fan kick on around 220. But radiator don't feel hot and neither does the upper return hose unless I vent the cap, then it gets hot.

Thoughts?
Tstat could be bad even if new. Also these are a pain in the ass to burp the system sometimes not uncommon to overheat a little after first time adding coolant. Let it run rad cap off I have a funnel that fits inside the rad cap they sell them pre cheap just shut it off let it cool down repeat ect get that air out.
 
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