Put it on the rev limiter to stop the hemi tick? Ever heard of this?

I had a couple knowledgeable guys that run a garage told me that if I start to get the hemi tick to give it a couple good hard runs up against the rev limiter a few times and quite often it will make it stop. Has anyone ever had success with this? Thanks

It has often been said that the tick happens to engines that idle a lot. So maybe there is some truth to it. However I don't know of anyone who were brave enough to try. Opening up the truck to speeds where it the engine hits the limiter, would be rather dangerous. Not sure if we can rev the engine that hard while the truck is stationary as well. When I first got my license and got my Alfa Romeo I enjoyed the sound of the engine. I used to rev it occasionally to around 5000 rpm. Then someone told me that such moves would damage the engine and more importantly the rest of the drive line. Since then I avoided doing it.

It is clear that the Hemi tick is something that everyone wants to avoid. I have experienced the tick in its worst form. Not pretty and quite expensive. So far, based on the advice here, the most tried and true method is making sure that the engine is lubricated well. Using Red Line 5W30 for me worked well.
When I purchased my current truck (used), my mechanic said that there was a lifter tick noise. Looking through the service history, I noticed that the oils used where decent, but not great. One oil change with Red Line 5W30 and the ticking vanished. Now every oil change I use Red Line 5W30. On the hottest months of the year, I use 5W40 just once.

The other known culprit of the ticking are the manifold bolts. Apparent the manifold warp for the heat. Considering the heat we experience here in Dubai, I'm surprised I haven't experienced this yet. However this of course is not the dreaded one and is easily fixed.

I run my truck hard, bumping the limiter, high rpm, sustainable driving at higher speed. It's a vehicle, use it. Now I live in Montana where most freeway speed is posted 85 and typical is 10 to 15% above, in the summer. Big state lots of ground to cover. I also tow with the vehicle.

I don't have hemi tick and have only replaced manifold bolts once.

If it comes apart it comes apart, can't worry about what might be. You could easily have an issue driving to the store at 25 mph.

My opinion

You need to bump up your idle with HP tuners. Plenty of info on this..

My idle is bumped to 650 in my truck. I also run PUP 5-w30. Idle oil pressure hot ranges from 40-43 psi depending on outside temp. My truck gets driven hard. I’m around 45,000 miles and occasionally get a tick at startup due to lifter bleed down. About 10-15 seconds and it goes away. I know it’s not exhaust as it’s not every time and I have headers. Good oil and not babying the engine are good. The hemi was not designed as a cruising around engine. It likes to be driven. I would not hold the engine at redline though as that’s not necessarily good for it. Maybe a good cruise down the interstate and drop it a gear to raise the rpm’s. It’ll heat the oil a bit hotter and bump the pressures a bit as well and you would think that should help break up some of the crude if any. Regular oil changes are always a great idea to prolong engine life.

Holding the transmission in 1st or 2nd gear will allow you to reach higher RPMs at a safer lower speed. To hit "redline" you do not have to be in top gear.

If your tick is caused by a damaged lifter hitting the cam lobe instead of rolling over it - I would think the worst thing you can do at that point is needlessly and continuously whacking it even harder and faster for no reason.

Nothing wrong with working the hemi hard when it's running properly, but running a damaged engine like that is just shortening its life. I also disagree that the "hemi wants to be driven hard". It's a machine, with moving parts and friction and heat and wear. In general an engine that revs less lives longer, one of the reasons why diesels are so hard to kill as they don't rev nearly as high.

All IMHO. From the many user reports on this forum it appears that lifter tick is best mitigated with a better oil.

High rpms wouldn't be my first choice option.

I don't know about this hemi tick thing - other than an occasional startup tick that all hydraulic lifter pushrod V8's have done since forever - mine is quiet as can be.
I do know using the oem filter will give me a startup tick after about 500 miles or so on the oil change.
A very short start and shut off a couple of times in a row will give a start up tick many time.

On my older engines, I've always just replaced 1 quart of oil with a quart of Rislone for 1-2 oil changes and if it was just a sticking lifter that seemed to clean them up.

On my 14 express 5.7 hemi I got a startup tick on the factory fill if it sat for a few days like a long weekend. I swapped the 5w20 out for 5w30 and mixed in some 10w30... no more startup tick and that was for like 30k miles. On my 18 laramie I've just always done it 5 qts 5w30 and 2 of 10w30 full syn. Did oil reports with blackstone since new and I'm not pushing 12k oil changes and oil looks great.

Worst thing to do on a failing lifter is push it hard. They might be talking about a noisy lifter which if stuck (internals) can free up under the higher pressure and volume of oil. At WOT a hyd lifter is basically a solid due to volume of oil and pressure.

I personally drive my truck hard but yeah!!! put it on the rev limiter will fix your problem for sure but putting a rod threw the block ahaha.

As a mechanic.......that is one of the dumbest things I have ever heard. Please don't do that. Unlike marine engines, automotive engines aren't generally designed to hang out at WOT continuously......
Just drive it. Everyone is so terrified of "the tick". ALL four 3G-4G hemis I have had did it, from the 2003 5.7 with over 160k miles to the 2012 392 I thrash on with a hair over 100k. If she blows, she blows. Replace it and move on lol.

670hoth said:

I had a couple knowledgeable guys that run a garage told me that if I start to get the hemi tick to give it a couple good hard runs up against the rev limiter a few times and quite often it will make it stop. Has anyone ever had success with this? Thanks

Click to expand...

Do they actually mean the "REV LIMITER" or put your foot to the floor to the Rev that the computer will limit the shift point (this is what I would guess they mean) as I am not sure if all vehicle have an actual REV Limiter. I have (for example) a MSD 6AL ignition box in my 66 to which I can install a "chip" to make an electronic REV LIMITER at an RPM I desire). When it hits that RPM the spark firing order is altered to prevent RPM from increasing). Some engines are designed to rev others are not. Do not see how doing either ( hitting a rev limiter or taking it to max shift RPM) would help. I have never heard of that type of "repair". Good luck keep us posted if you do it and it works.

All modern EFI engines have rev limiters from the factory.

HemiLonestar said:

All modern EFI engines have rev limiters from the factory.

Click to expand...

Yes, what he said. And most will have an even lower RPM rev limiter set in park/neutral. Say for example in park 2500 rpm but in top gear 5200rpm.

18CrewDually said:

Yes, what he said. And most will have an even lower RPM rev limiter set in park/neutral. Say for example in park 2500 rpm but in top gear 5200rpm.

Click to expand...

Modern Mopar neutral limiter (for gas engines) is 4000 rpm.

I have a 2014 Ram with a 5.7 Hemi. I had this tick and thought it was lifters, took it to the dealer and they replace the heat risers. No more tick.