Cost to Replace Exhaust Manifold Studs, Gaskets and Mill Manifold

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Full Curl Ram

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I recently got hearing aids only to discover I have a ticking sound at start up. Upon inspection, the exhuast manifold heat shield is loose on the driver's side rear so I am assuming a broken stud. After reading some of the older posts, I want to get the factory manifolds milled and replace the gaskets and bolts. I am inquiring as to how much you guys have paid to get this done at a Ram dealer or at an independent shop? Thank you.
 

PoMansRam

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That's kind of a tough one to estimate. Do you have a feel for the hourly labor rate at the shop you'd like to use?

I'd figure on $100 in parts and 3-4hrs labor maybe? $500-700?

I think you're doing the right thing re-using the OEMs. They should have done all the twisting and turning they need to at this point.
 

Wild one

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I recently got hearing aids only to discover I have a ticking sound at start up. Upon inspection, the exhuast manifold heat shield is loose on the driver's side rear so I am assuming a broken stud. After reading some of the older posts, I want to get the factory manifolds milled and replace the gaskets and bolts. I am inquiring as to how much you guys have paid to get this done at a Ram dealer or at an independent shop? Thank you.
Who ever you get to do it,make sure you pick up a set of Remflex 6022 gaskets to use on them,instead of the factory gaskets.The Remflexes are a fairly thick graphite gasket,that'll absorb the expansion/contraction factor with-out breaking bolts,better then the factory gaskets will.


 

Burn2k12Ram

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It really varies on the job. As far as milling the manifolds that should be relatively easy and not too much $$ but as far as removing the existing bolts that really depends on how many are broken off in the heads and how much of a PITA and time it will take to get them all successfully removed. Some can be extremely difficult causing the labor price to rise(is why I suggest maybe getting an upfront price in case of such). I would not expect too much if any north of $300 but it really can vary with so many variables like I said plus location.
 

JHoward

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From what I've been reading here in the forum about this issue is it's how many bolts have broken off in the heads and if you add after market shorty headers instead of having the originals manifold(s) milled and put back on... It just depends...

My opinion is the cheaper route would be milling the originals and reuse them because they have already been heat cycled and won't warp again. Replace the gaskets with Remflex as mentioned and new bolts.

I'm dreading this issue if and when it happens. Maybe I shouldn't wait for it to happen and just pull the exhaust manifolds now @ a little over 44k miles while the there are no broken bolts and to not have to deal with that issue later and have the manifolds milled flat and reinstall with Remflex gaskets and new bolts ...
 
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Full Curl Ram

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Thanks guys for all the info. On the new bolts, should I go OEM or an aftermarket brand or doesn't it matter once the manifolds are flat?
 

buckeyexx

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Had it done on my 6.4 on the passenger side only for $500
 

670hoth

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2014 Ram 1500 5.7 60,000 miles

I recently got hearing aids only to discover I have a ticking sound at start up. Upon inspection, the exhuast manifold heat shield is loose on the driver's side rear so I am assuming a broken stud. After reading some of the older posts, I want to get the factory manifolds milled and replace the gaskets and bolts. I am inquiring as to how much you guys have paid to get this done at a Ram dealer or at an independent shop? Thank you.
I just paid about $950 and they put on two new Dorman manifolds, and gasket, and bolts. I kept my OEM manifolds and will have them milled and reinstalled if they leak again.
 

PoMansRam

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For you guys that spent a grand or so on this job, was it done at a dealer or independent shop? Just curious. I know dealers are upwards of $150-200/hr for labor these days.
 

Burn2k12Ram

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For you guys that spent a grand or so on this job, was it done at a dealer or independent shop? Just curious. I know dealers are upwards of $150-200/hr for labor these days.
Correct me if I’m wrong but won’t a dealer only install new regardless what you try to tell them? Even thought it makes absolutely no sense to do such.
 

Douglas Lehman

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I’ve got the same issue and when I looked into doing the repair an independent shop told me they charge $90/hour with an anticipated completion time of 3-4 hours. Parts were around $100.
 

670hoth

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I’ve got the same issue and when I looked into doing the repair an independent shop told me they charge $90/hour with an anticipated completion time of 3-4 hours. Parts were around $100.
You must be talking about one side only. Also, I wonder if they're just replacing gaskets and bolts for a hundred bucks? A Dorman manifold, gasket, and bolts are definitely more than 100 even before a shop markup.
 

670hoth

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For you guys that spent a grand or so on this job, was it done at a dealer or independent shop? Just curious. I know dealers are upwards of $150-200/hr for labor these days.
Independent shop. Both sides - exhaust manifolds, gaskets, bolt kits, and labor. $950. I kept my originals and will have them machined and put back on if it happens again.
 

EdGs

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If you are mechanically inclined you can DIY, it only takes time.

If your manifold bolts are broken flush with the cylinder head, the welder method is the best way to remove them.

They can also be removed with a left-handed drill/e-z out, but this is tricky and not for the faint of heart. I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THIS. DO AT YOU OWN RISK.

The passenger side manifold is the easier one to remove. On the driver side, you need to remove the dipstick tube, 2wd is easy, 4wd is harder as the bolt for the bracket on the dipstick tube is blocked.

Once the manifold(s) are removed, they can be trued up on a belt sander. It does take time. though.

A set of remflex gaskets and new studs (I used Everbuilt hardware from amazon for my '15) should run you around $100 or so.

I wish you the best on your repairs, whatever route you choose to go. May they go smoothly.
 

BWL

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Manifold template is a time saver if you have a few broken studs and lowers the risk of damaging the head if you have to drill them out, but quality drill bits taped off for depth to match the cheap ones included in the kit is recommended. I buy norseman drill bits most of the time as they drill better than most of the cheap bits I used to buy like power tool branded ones and last a lot longer.Honestly if the shop you take it to doesn't have one and it looks bad it wouldn't hurt to have one in the truck for them to borrow.
 
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PoMansRam

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Welding on a nut is the only way I would ever extract the broken studs with heads in a vehicle.
I've never done it, but it really is amazing at how well that works and easy it looks to do with a MIG welder. The molten metal won't stick to the aluminum head because the aluminum sheds heat so fast. I've seen guys stick a washer in place first to use as a base, then weld the nut to that.

I've never seen it done with a stick welder. Probably can if you know what you're doing.
 
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