Has anyone ever moved the batteries to the rear?

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tourqued

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I have heard of it being done, have never seen it, and was wondering about the caveats.
For sure I am in the process.
It is nowhere as EZ as I thought it was going to be!
 

PolarisCobra

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Why would you want to do this? I am not sure I understand the advantage. Making the battery cables longer (by ten feet or more?) will result in some power loss when starting, which could be an issue on a cold morning depending on where you live.
 
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tourqued

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For several reasons
One is I have a V plow on the front and the dodge is not rated for the weight, which is now several sets of wheel bearing over the years.
Next is the ability to gain more real estate to work on this thing, which is a constant.
If it was a simple task to pull the front left fender the whole world opens up.
Using the proper size cable ( $$$$$$$) will not allow for much of a voltage drop.
Traction to the rear wheels and less ballast is needed when the plow is on. Going to a plastic bumper and moving the two group 31 batteries to the rear, is near a 200 lb savings on the front
 

PolarisCobra

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Thanks for that reply, your reasons make much more sense now that I understand your situation a bit better.

Sorry - don't have experience with this, so can't be too much help. Are there kits that you can buy to help with this? Something that includes a battery box and brackets, and some guidance about where to install? I would think you need to be careful about insuring that the top of the battery cannot short against the frame or bottom of the bed.
 

turkeybird56

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I have seen batteries mounted in a side box on tow trucks with 12 gauge wire, never seen any batteries in the rear of a truck. Just seen them under seats in old Military jeeps, but have seen in the trunk of High End Mercedes and BMW, but that is a different animal.

I would think you would have to somehow, somewhere if you have a side box setup, put in there and route cables or make some type of insulated box to put I guess in the bed, and properly attach, ground, and find a wire path for the cables. We had insulated boxes with rubber coated carp paint for jeeps, but again, that was a military application.

maybe you could do some type of "Marine" Box application (as in boat) to relocate. Those applications and kits do exist.

TRY Contacting DogHouse Diesel and see if they can help: Another forum stated they had diagrams and such for battery relocation.

FB: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063493964669
 
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tourqued

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I am well into this all ready-just want to avoid any pitfalls. Notice I have triple insulated the Hot cable being it is about 18 feet long, and not fused. For cable -Marine "tinned wire " all ends crimpled drilled and soldered. NOT cheap!.
I am going to attempt to make the removal of the left front fender a POC and it should be without a battery there to make it all complicated. of course all the grounds under the hood are rusted corroded and running all new ones.
truck battery as.jpgbattery relocation  a1.jpgbattery relocation  a1.jpgbattery relocation aa.jpg
 

turkeybird56

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I am well into this all ready-just want to avoid any pitfalls. Notice I have triple insulated the Hot cable being it is about 18 feet long, and not fused. For cable -Marine "tinned wire " all ends crimpled drilled and soldered. NOT cheap!.
I am going to attempt to make the removal of the left front fender a POC and it should be without a battery there to make it all complicated. of course all the grounds under the hood are rusted corroded and running all new ones.
View attachment 503572View attachment 503573View attachment 503573View attachment 503574
One Heck of a Project, which is why my thought was use Marine Applications, since they are usually as weather proof as U can find. NE WAY, good luck on yer project for sure.
 

Wild one

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I am well into this all ready-just want to avoid any pitfalls. Notice I have triple insulated the Hot cable being it is about 18 feet long, and not fused. For cable -Marine "tinned wire " all ends crimpled drilled and soldered. NOT cheap!.
I am going to attempt to make the removal of the left front fender a POC and it should be without a battery there to make it all complicated. of course all the grounds under the hood are rusted corroded and running all new ones.
View attachment 503572View attachment 503573View attachment 503573View attachment 503574
Add an easy to access set of jumper lugs on both ends of the truck if you can,makes jump starting it or another vehicle alot easier,if you have a jump start set-up at the front of the truck and one at the rear
 
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