Did Lubegard Biotech kill your hemi tick??

noupf said:

@Burla I know you are one of the more knowledgeable oil guys on the forum and im looking to add this stuff to my hemi with 90k miles. Its been a relatively quiet motor since new, but I'm really looking to add it more so for benefits associated with adding some extra moly to the PUP 5w-20 ( blended with 3 quarts of 5w-30 )that I use.

I opted not to purchase the LiquidMoly brand after reading some of the thread here about the suspension difference between the two products. I did however see that many seem to report that the LiquidMoly brand seems to help lower operating temps as well as increase fuel efficiency a little. Is there any conformation that the LubeGuard product does either as well?

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I'd get a uoa to see if extra moly is even worth it. Extra Moly is gonna be most beneficial in hemi's that have medium to heavy wear. Moly is Moly, it all is gonna lower the coefficient of friction, assuming you have friction. The white paper is absolute, the moly you get in your otc will lower this coefficient 6 times then w.o it, when you boost this level of moly to 200ppm it only adds a point to that. The difference is what oil soluble moly doe not do in the sump compared to powdered moly. I'm not saying I would never attempt mos2, but the only time I would is if lubegard/redline failed to get the tick and at that point I'd try small portions. But, it sounds like you have a good hemi, so I would ignore the noise and keep doing what I was doing. For some reason we cant access the mos2 tests, perhaps the guys who posted were threatened with lawsuits, I don't know, but I do know I don't want powdered moly all over my engine unless it was the last resort.

Burla said:

I'd get a uoa to see if extra moly is even worth it. Extra Moly is gonna be most beneficial in hemi's that have medium to heavy wear. Moly is Moly, it all is gonna lower the coefficient of friction, assuming you have friction. The white paper is absolute, the moly you get in your otc will lower this coefficient 6 times then w.o it, when you boost this level of moly to 200ppm it only adds a point to that. The difference is what oil soluble moly doe not do in the sump compared to powdered moly. I'm not saying I would never attempt mos2, but the only time I would is if lubegard/redline failed to get the tick and at that point I'd try small portions. But, it sounds like you have a good hemi, so I would ignore the noise and keep doing what I was doing. For some reason we cant access the mos2 tests, perhaps the guys who posted were threatened with lawsuits, I don't know, but I do know I don't want powdered moly all over my engine unless it was the last resort.

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No burla lucas is the last resort lol!

Travis8352 said:

No burla lucas is the last resort lol!

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true that

bringing it back from the dead... I have noticed the the past few months that when I start the truck, you can hear the lifters for a second or two, then goes away, I am running RP 0w-20 as per my oil fill cap, I am running the RP filter as well, but currently only the factory one, I am planning on upping to the rp 20-820 when I change next. I know one person made a post in 2020 saying they switched to Amzoil and it solved their dry start, any suggestions? I've got about 11k miles on it now.

gt8684 said:

bringing it back from the dead... I have noticed the the past few months that when I start the truck, you can hear the lifters for a second or two, then goes away, I am running RP 0w-20 as per my oil fill cap, I am running the RP filter as well, but currently only the factory one, I am planning on upping to the rp 20-820 when I change next. I know one person made a post in 2020 saying they switched to Amzoil and it solved their dry start, any suggestions? I've got about 11k miles on it now.

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Before we started individual product threads like this one, which is a lubegard biotech thread, we used to post results in syn thread. Amsoil was hit and miss on hemi tick, which means it is possible it will work. I might consider 0w40 if that was what I was trying as that weight has kept @Hemi395 s tick, and also by the way have lubegard biotech on hand to add to that if my tick was still there.

The two products that had the highest success rates 50% and 80% prospectively if you believe the polls, have similar science. Esters and super high oil soluble moly was the key. I believe royal purple also is a dark horse we never gave a real shot at, as they too have some esters. It might be the weight an much as formula. If I was gonna try amsoil I'd try 0w40 ss, if I was gonna try rp I'd try 5w30, if I was gonna try something this minute w/o an oil change I'd try adding 15 ounces biotech to my sump, if I really wanted the best chance at killing hemi tick based on this forum's work, I'd try 5w30 redline with a royal purple filter 20-820. It is indeed science and not a brand thing, the highest moly oil we have tried, ester based with added pao base oils and high zinc, gives you the best shot at killing hemi tick. I suggest you read this thread and the cousin thread did redline kill hemi tick thread and listen to all the horses mouths.

Just dumped a bottle of lubeguard in my truck a couple weeks ago. See how this goes. Only have around 2,000 miles on this oil so far. And maybe 200 miles on the lubeguard. Don’t get much more than 4-5000 a year on my truck. Penzoil ultra platinum 5w30.

Sorry if I missed it but what is your guys thoughts on Ceratec, especially vs lubegaurd?

Nick@GotExhaust said:

Sorry if I missed it but what is your guys thoughts on Ceratec, especially vs lubegaurd?

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Dunno on this one Nick, I can only say it isnt one of the dangerous additives per their msds. Most ceramic additives are really a silicone, just like wax coatings they call ceramic end up being silicone dioxide. If you do a voa on this my guess would be high silicone level, and if they hold true to their philosophy on extreme pressure chemistry it could have titanium as well. Total guesses there, but bottom line it is fairly safe to use. I doubt there is a voa out there, but I'll check a bit. If I dont post it there isnt one I can find.

I dont see uoa, here is 11 pages of BITOG, I'm not sure it would be helpful they way posts tend to go over there. Maybe some chemistry is posted, I'm not that interested in this one, but here it is if you are curious.

Nick@GotExhaust said:

Sorry if I missed it but what is your guys thoughts on Ceratec, especially vs lubegaurd?

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ha I was totally wrong, lmoa. Here is a uoa in some other language, lots of moly.





compare to their mos2.

@Burla - what is that? A ****** cut sheet? lol

We also discussed the merits of pre-lubing engines that are subject to hydraulic lifter oil drain down (not run often, cold temps, thin oils, etc).

Normally pre-lube is a feature on high-value engines. I'm talking $150,000 engines - not a $9,500 Hemi engine, because those engines are usually used for life-safety or production income applications. They have either a dedicated oil pump for pre-lubing, or pre-fire cranking.

We discussed the Hemi can be forced to pre-lube prior to firing two ways:

(1) depress throttle pedal to floor and crank engine (no longer than 20 secs. so starter doesn't overheat) - the engine will not start...verified via testers. Can do this a couple times and lifters should fill with oil (make sure you have good battery 1st). Release pedal to start.

(2) pull the ignition fuse and crank. Obviously gotta put fuse back to start.

HEMIMANN said:

@Burla - what is that? A ****** cut sheet? lol

We also discussed the merits of pre-lubing engines that are subject to hydraulic lifter oil drain down (not run often, cold temps, thin oils, etc).

Normally pre-lube is a feature on high-value engines. I'm talking $150,000 engines - not a $9,500 Hemi engine, because those engines are usually used for life-safety or production income applications. They have either a dedicated oil pump for pre-lubing, or pre-fire cranking.

We discussed the Hemi can be forced to pre-lube prior to firing two ways:

(1) depress throttle pedal to floor and crank engine (no longer than 20 secs. so starter doesn't overheat) - the engine will not start...verified via testers. Can do this a couple times and lifters should fill with oil (make sure you have good battery 1st). Release pedal to start.

(2) pull the ignition fuse and crank. Obviously gotta put fuse back to start.

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You can also pre-lube the engine,by pulling the oil pressure sensor,and pressurizing the oil system. You Tube has several video's on building a home made pressure luber.

Thank you @Burla

Well I will throw my hat in the ring. I have a warm idle tick on my 09 Ram 1500. The lifters and heads were replaced before I bought it June. The truck sat at my mother's house for 2 months. I just noticed the warm idle tick a few nights ago. And I was worried as I have a long drive coming up with the truck.
I ordered Lubegard and will do an oil change tomorrow when it arrives. 5w30 PUP with Purolator Boss filter. I will submit a video and vote in the poll when I am back from my trip. Here are 2 videos of the warm idle tick. I only hear it after the truck has been driven and warm.

Smokey613 said:

I put Amsoil in my 2011 300C and after 600 miles the change oil indicator tripped. I reset it and about 500 miles later it tripped again. This repeated for 2000 miles and I finally changed oil and put in M1 and the oil life indicator went back to normal. I have no idea why it behaved that way, but that cured me from using Amsoil again.

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Your post humored me. Amsoil had nothing to do with your vehicle's algorithm tripping the change oil light. The engine cannot sample or test the lubricant. It has no idea what condition it's in. Changing to another lubricant and then was magically "fixed" is coincidental. Blaming Amsoil with statements like "that cured me from using Amsoil again" is even more ludicrous. The powertrain control module only knows how long engine is running, idled, temperature, speeds, etc. It guesses when it's time to change the oil, not knowing actual condition at all.

My truck has only seen Redline or PUP 5w-30…The last year mainly PUP, but engine noise is louder than with Redline. I have a decent supply of PUP and RP10-48’s in the garage. I did however buy some Lubegard to start using. Im right at 80k and the motor is not ticking anywhere near a level I’d call concerning and miraculously my exhaust manifold bolts are all intact. Knock on wood. But I would like to get another 80k out of it! Hoping this combo gets me where I’d want to be. Oil changes every 4-5k religiously.

Dginn69 said:

Well I will throw my hat in the ring. I have a warm idle tick on my 09 Ram 1500. The lifters and heads were replaced before I bought it June. The truck sat at my mother's house for 2 months. I just noticed the warm idle tick a few nights ago. And I was worried as I have a long drive coming up with the truck.
I ordered Lubegard and will do an oil change tomorrow when it arrives. 5w30 PUP with Purolator Boss filter. I will submit a video and vote in the poll when I am back from my trip. Here are 2 videos of the warm idle tick. I only hear it after the truck has been driven and warm.

Hemi Tick or rod knock? Or something else?

My 09 Ram 1500 recently stated making this noise after it warms up. Exhaust bolts are all in tact. Could it be lifters or rod knock.

www.youtube.com

Hemi Tick?

My 09 Ram 1500 recently stated making this noise after it warms up. Exhaust bolts are all in tact. Could it be lifters or rod knock.

www.youtube.com

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So I am around 300 miles since the OC with PUP 5w30, Lubegard & Fram XG2 filter. While I am not ready to cast my vote as I want to be sure but its seems my tick is gone.

I made it so you can change your vote anytime back forth whatever. This is just an info base to aide ram owners, all we care about is the truth of what is happening.

Trying this again as a last ditch effort my hemi 220k is knocking like a ***** on startup past 2 days guess I better start rebuilding my spare motor Lol.

Burla said:

I made it so you can change your vote anytime back forth whatever. This is just an info base to aide ram owners, all we care about is the truth of what is happening.

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I see that, but the strange thing is somedays I can hear a slight tick and other days I get nothing.