Andersen hitch with air suspension

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PEI Hank

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New to Ram, thus new to the forum.

Just got a 2020 Laramie with 5.7 etorque, factory air suspension and 3.92 gears.

Upgraded to this truck to tow our 2019 Grand Design Imagine 2600RB. Dry weight is 6100 lbs.

Wondering about the best process for hooking up the Andersen hitch with the air suspension.

With all WDH hitches I've used in the past, as well as the Andersen on our last truck without air suspension, I would use the trailer jack once coupled up to raise the rear of the truck to hook up the WDH. Not sure that will work with the air suspension trying to find level.

Also with our last truck, I had the Andersen nuts tightened to where I could see 8-9 threads - more than most people seem to run.

I wrote Andersen and got this reply:

"Setting the tension in the hitch before you apply air in the bags would be the way we normally recommend starting with. I understand the bags inflate automatically, so you may have to turn the vehicle off upon the initial set up. It is also possible the brackets may have moved forward over the course of time. You can loosen the tension nut until it is flush with the end of the threading. After you'll loosen the frame bolts and set screw and pull back as far as the brackets will let you. You'll then torque the bolts to the preferred specification (75-90 ft. lbs.) and apply the set screw. You may also cut a link off of each side if you don't want to do the first option."

I see some people say they raise the truck, then hook up the WDH.

Hoping someone has a similar setup and can share what they find works.
 

jejb

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I don't have the Anderson WDH hitch, but I do have a WDH that I use with my air suspended 2500's. I set them up with them all the way aired up. Didn't make sense to do otherwise, since it'd be aired up when I towed. If you set it up with the truck lowered, it'd mess up the measurements. Odd they'd recommend that.
 

ramffml

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Also with our last truck, I had the Andersen nuts tightened to where I could see 8-9 threads - more than most people seem to run.

Can't speak for the air suspension as I just have the lowly coil setup, but for having 8-9 threads the Andersen install manual says you can remove 1 link from front of the chains if they're too long. I had to do that as well so that I could get the 5 to 6 threads that I wanted. There is no real advantage to shortening them other than that you can then use the factory supplied socket instead of a wrench. When you have too many threads showing, the socket isn't deep enough to turn the nut past 6 threads or so.
 

cdn cj

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Assuming you have a 1500 ,when I hooked up my WDH I would put the suspension in jack mode. Otherwise you’ll be fighting the leveling system as you raise the rear to connect your bars.
 

Farmer Fran

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There is a process you follow. It is in the owners manual. Download the year owners manual a read. My laziness is overwhelming or I would post the directions.

It is really not difficult with the air suspension, the directions are straight forward.
 

Redfour5

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Etrailer says to turn off the vehicle and put the hitch on so it settles without the air suspension on. Then turn on the truck with the air suspension on and it will put it where it needs to go.

They note that others might say otherwise, but their engineers say do it this way so the system can do what it supposed to do. Here is one of their posts on this.

 

jejb

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Etrailer says to turn off the vehicle and put the hitch on so it settles without the air suspension on. Then turn on the truck with the air suspension on and it will put it where it needs to go.

They note that others might say otherwise, but their engineers say do it this way so the system can do what it supposed to do. Here is one of their posts on this.

That's not what the link you provided says, see below. It says to air it up to normal level and set up the WDH from there. There is no talk about turning the air system off, etc.

We advise folks to air the bags to the desired level, then set up the weight distribution system according to the instructions. Not everybody agrees, some will state the other way around, but we've always recommended to do the bags first.
 

Capt Derek

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New to Ram, thus new to the forum.

Just got a 2020 Laramie with 5.7 etorque, factory air suspension and 3.92 gears.

Upgraded to this truck to tow our 2019 Grand Design Imagine 2600RB. Dry weight is 6100 lbs.

Wondering about the best process for hooking up the Andersen hitch with the air suspension.

With all WDH hitches I've used in the past, as well as the Andersen on our last truck without air suspension, I would use the trailer jack once coupled up to raise the rear of the truck to hook up the WDH. Not sure that will work with the air suspension trying to find level.

Also with our last truck, I had the Andersen nuts tightened to where I could see 8-9 threads - more than most people seem to run.

I wrote Andersen and got this reply:

"Setting the tension in the hitch before you apply air in the bags would be the way we normally recommend starting with. I understand the bags inflate automatically, so you may have to turn the vehicle off upon the initial set up. It is also possible the brackets may have moved forward over the course of time. You can loosen the tension nut until it is flush with the end of the threading. After you'll loosen the frame bolts and set screw and pull back as far as the brackets will let you. You'll then torque the bolts to the preferred specification (75-90 ft. lbs.) and apply the set screw. You may also cut a link off of each side if you don't want to do the first option."

I see some people say they raise the truck, then hook up the WDH.

Hoping someone has a similar setup and can share what they find works.
I have anderson, as soon as the tongue touches the ball of truck, snug up the threads on the chains, as you then lower the trailer tongue the rest of the way, as the weight transfer starts, the air bags then compensate and the chains are snug. But only towed my trailer about 18000 miles this way so far, no issues with sway, so I may not be the most experienced, and did the Al-Can this summer and survived.
 

miketx

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I have anderson, as soon as the tongue touches the ball of truck, snug up the threads on the chains, as you then lower the trailer tongue the rest of the way, as the weight transfer starts, the air bags then compensate and the chains are snug. But only towed my trailer about 18000 miles this way so far, no issues with sway, so I may not be the most experienced, and did the Al-Can this summer and survived.
I guess you already determined (via trial and error) how much to snug the chains (ie how many turns or threads you can see)? I have an Anderson, which I used on a previous vehicle, and am putting on my Rebel tomorrow when I pick up my new trailer. I'm thinking for first setup, I need to put the air suspension in "jack mode". Thoughts?
 

18CrewDually

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That's not what the link you provided says, see below. It says to air it up to normal level and set up the WDH from there. There is no talk about turning the air system off, etc.

They are referring to aftermarket airbags.
In this case, On factory airride vehicles the initial desired ride hieght is set while the vehicle is running. So as you back under the trailer, the truck is at desired ride hieght. Before lowering the trailer tongue down, you must shut off the vehicle so that the airride doesn't compensate. By shutting it off, you can then fully lower the trailer and set the weight distribution system. Once set, you then restart the vehicle and the airride can make any minute changes.
I have airide on my Denali and it's the same process.
 

jejb

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They are referring to aftermarket airbags.
In this case, On factory airride vehicles the initial desired ride hieght is set while the vehicle is running. So as you back under the trailer, the truck is at desired ride hieght. Before lowering the trailer tongue down, you must shut off the vehicle so that the airride doesn't compensate. By shutting it off, you can then fully lower the trailer and set the weight distribution system. Once set, you then restart the vehicle and the airride can make any minute changes.
I have airide on my Denali and it's the same process.
That does not make sense to me. If I lower the trailer onto the ball with the truck off, it will push the rear end down several inches. Starting my factory air equipped truck will fully compensate for that, which would have a big impact on setting up a WDH. The only real question in my mind is if you want to setup the WDH in "Alt trailer height" mode or normal ride height mode.

Might be different with a leaf spring 1 ton, I guess. It probably does not sag the non-compensated rear suspension as much as my 2500. Still, I'd think you'd want to set it up at it's actual vehicle running and air suspension compensated right height.
 

18CrewDually

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That does not make sense to me. If I lower the trailer onto the ball with the truck off, it will push the rear end down several inches. Starting my factory air equipped truck will fully compensate for that, which would have a big impact on setting up a WDH. The only real question in my mind is if you want to setup the WDH in "Alt trailer height" mode or normal ride height mode.

Might be different with a leaf spring 1 ton, I guess. It probably does not sag the non-compensated rear suspension as much as my 2500. Still, I'd think you'd want to set it up at it's actual vehicle running and air suspension compensated right height.

The whole idea of a "weight distribution system " is to push or transfer weight off the rear and transfer more to the front steer axle. If you allow the air bags to fill BEFORE hooking up the distribution system then the distribution system will be doing practically nothing, or you would have to adjust it so much to transfer any weight that the back of the vehicle would be way high out of level.

The whole idea of the weight distribution system is to bring the truck back up level and push weight on the steer axle. If you let the air ride system level the truck first then the weight distribution system is not going to accomplish anything at level ride height.

If you still don't get it maybe watch a YouTube video.
 

cdn cj

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I set my 1500 up exactly as 18CrewDually recommended in post #10.
I used tire jack mode instead of shutting the vehicle off though, as oftentimes the compressor would run even if the engine was off. (Just sitting in the driveway you’d hear it groan)
I say “used” because air suspension and Canada don’t play well …..
Good luck!
 

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The whole idea of a "weight distribution system " is to push or transfer weight off the rear and transfer more to the front steer axle. If you allow the air bags to fill BEFORE hooking up the distribution system then the distribution system will be doing practically nothing, or you would have to adjust it so much to transfer any weight that the back of the vehicle would be way high out of level.

The whole idea of the weight distribution system is to bring the truck back up level and push weight on the steer axle. If you let the air ride system level the truck first then the weight distribution system is not going to accomplish anything at level ride height.

If you still don't get it maybe watch a YouTube video.
^^^ That ^^^

I don't have air ride, but if I did I would do it your way and activate it after setting up my WDH. If the air suspension is keeping the truck level while you're setting up the WDH, then that in effect will fool the WDH (you/me) into thinking there is less weight that needs to be transferred to the front. Turn off the air, adjust the WDH so that your front wheel well is back to <3/4" from where it should be, then activate the air and let it level the rest.
 

jejb

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The whole idea of a "weight distribution system " is to push or transfer weight off the rear and transfer more to the front steer axle. If you allow the air bags to fill BEFORE hooking up the distribution system then the distribution system will be doing practically nothing, or you would have to adjust it so much to transfer any weight that the back of the vehicle would be way high out of level.

The whole idea of the weight distribution system is to bring the truck back up level and push weight on the steer axle. If you let the air ride system level the truck first then the weight distribution system is not going to accomplish anything at level ride height.

If you still don't get it maybe watch a YouTube video.
I do transfer weight to the front with the truck aired up. I took the measurements and adjusted the hitch to push down the front of the truck down.
 

jejb

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^^^ That ^^^

I don't have air ride, but if I did I would do it your way and activate it after setting up my WDH. If the air suspension is keeping the truck level while you're setting up the WDH, then that in effect will fool the WDH (you/me) into thinking there is less weight that needs to be transferred to the front. Turn off the air, adjust the WDH so that your front wheel well is back to <3/4" from where it should be, then activate the air and let it level the rest.
It's not fooling the tape measure.
 

Tulecreeper

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It's not fooling the tape measure.
I don't understand that comment. You can use your air to level the body and bring the front wheel well back down to where it's supposed to be, but that isn't actually transferring any weight. It's just pushing the rear of the body up above the overloaded rear axle and is only cosmetic.
 

18CrewDually

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I do transfer weight to the front with the truck aired up. I took the measurements and adjusted the hitch to push down the front of the truck down.

Measurements do NOT mean nearly as much as axle weights BEFORE and AFTER setting up the system properly.
If you have already weighed before and after post the scale ticket.

Next time measure front and back wheel well lip to the ground on a level surface unhooked. Record measurements and AXLE weights of the truck.
Then hook up "your way", go for a tow and return to remeasure. Measure and record along with axle weights again.
Then unhook, go for a ride to let the truck level back out. Upon your return hook up the way my self and manufacturers describe.
1. Back up under the trailer ball and shut the truck OFF completely (or disable airride) so that the air ride will NOT adjust for the added tongue weight that you're about to drop on it.
2. Lower the trailer completely and hook up your weight distribution hitch so that the truck corrects to sit level again. 3. With NO assistance from the air ride the truck will now be properly distributed of the tongue weight.
4. Start the vehicle and allow the air ride to work as intended, to assist keeping the truck at a desired hieght.

The way you have been hooking it up it's doing half the work that your weight distribution system could be doing.
Now after all that post your scale tickets of the way you set it up compared to the way described above and you should see the difference.
 

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You can use your air to level the body and bring the front wheel well back down to where it's supposed to be, but that isn't actually transferring any weight. It's just pushing the rear of the body up above the overloaded rear axle and is only cosmetic.
With rear only air bags, lifting the rear doesn't lower the front(it might even raise it more). The tongue weight acts against the front axle using the rear axle as the fulcrum like a teeter totter.
Measuring the front will get you in the ballpark, as mentioned it better to weigh the axles.
 

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I don't think any of you guys have tried this with a 2500 with factory air. Hooking the trailer to it with the truck off will cause like 3" of sag. There are no springs supporting the load, only the air bags. No way you could get meaningful numbers trying to adjust a WDH like that. 1 ton's have leaf springs, and 3/4 ton's w/o the factory air have coil springs.
 

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