Oil drain plug can’t come off

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turkeybird56

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I am not clear either is that a frame part?
Or what?
If it is a what, I will assume you can cut and or grind a 1/2 moon in it.
Or change out the pan.
personally I am pretty sure I would have moon it and make the edges all really smooooth
Well, if he can Moon it, jack it up, get it out, REPLACE with a Fujomoto Valve, instead of drain plug, that might help, but I still think pulling the pan and putting in a drain at another location best option, unless U just replace with another pan that has a drain at another accessible location, even than, would do Fujomoto Valve.

OP, really need some more pics, overall pic, better angles and overall shot, but lots of good suggestions in thread.
 

PaleFlyer

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I am not clear either is that a frame part?
Or what?
If it is a what, I will assume you can cut and or grind a 1/2 moon in it.
Or change out the pan.
personally I am pretty sure I would have moon it and make the edges all really smooooth
It kinda looks like the Sway bar... But personally I would not be grinding chunks out of the truck for anything that might be structural/affect drive quality.
 

truck2014

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It kinda looks like the Sway bar... But personally I would not be grinding chunks out of the truck for anything that might be structural/affect drive quality.

If the shop can’t help , then that’s exactly what I’d do , it appears to be a cross member, I’d grind it out to access the plug , if I was worried I’d reinforce it a bit . Put on a Fumoto , and call it a day .
 

Wild one

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Cutting out a 1/2 moon is a great idea if you have a welder and torch and the skills to weld in 1/2 a chunk of pipe for the 1/2 moon,but alot of guys don't have access to those tools or the skills to weld in a piece of pipe.Although it is probably the best idea,as you don't have to worry about oil pan leaks from ripping the pan off and replacing it
 

Dean2

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Grinding, welding etc is a lot of ******** around when there are clearly a correct pan that will completely get rid of the issue. Never been a fan of hack job fixes anytime and even if it wasn't the responsibility of the shop that installed the motor to pull and put on the right pan.
 
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Wild one

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Grinding, welding etc us a lot of ******** around when there are clearly a correct pan that will completely get rid of the issue. Never been a fan of hack job fixes anytime and even if it wasn't the responsibility of the shop that installed the motor to pull and put on the right pan.
If the pan isn't leaking,i'm not a fan of pulling it and swapping it for another pan,as that's usually when you'll start to have issues with a pan leak. It'd be alot easier to do a 1/2 moon fix then it would be to pull the motor to properly swap pans and maybe oil pump pick-up tubes to match the pan.Swapping pans is alot more flucking around,then cutting a notch in a crossmember is,lol
 

Wild one

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I'd just drill a hole and add another drain plug. Easy-peasy.
How do you propose to do that with the pan on the motor. The pan isn't thick enough to thread for a drain plug,and the only way you're going to add the threaded reciever is to pull the pan so you can install it on the inside of the pan.



 

truck2014

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Grinding, welding etc us a lot of ******** around when there are clearly a correct pan that will completely get rid of the issue. Never been a fan of hack job fixes anytime and even if it wasn't the responsibility of the shop that installed the motor to pull and put on the right pan.
There is hack jobs , and there is fixes that make sense . Me personally I’d have that problem solved before you could get the bolts out of the pan , and have the oil changed . I worked in steel fabrication for nearly 45 years , this fix is about as simple as it gets . Call it what you like , but there would be no compromise in the integrity of that cross member . Just need to understand what you are doing , or have someone that does .
 

truck2014

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If the pan isn't leaking,i'm not a fan of pulling it and swapping it for another pan,as that's usually when you'll start to have issues with a pan leak. It'd be alot easier to do a 1/2 moon fix then it would be to pull the motor to properly swap pans and maybe oil pump pick-up tubes to match the pan.Swapping pans is alot more flucking around,then cutting a notch in a crossmember is,lol

Exactly , wouldn’t be the first time a little steel has been removed to solve a problem. Do you think when a hot rod or whatever is built or a different motor that there isn’t a little cutting , welding etc to make it work . No they don’t call it a hack job , they call it a modification . There is a difference, and IMO this is a modification .
 

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You "could" hack it, but how long would you want to put up with the mess every oil change. Oil hitting the member is going to go everywhere, esp. if hot.

OP is the drain plug in the center of that flat area on the pan or off to one side?

If off to one side, it is of a much older vintage engine than what you were told.2006 4.7 oil pan.jpg2011 oil pan.jpg
 

CanRebel

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if it was mine. Engine is working, no leaks. I would bring it back and ask them to cut hole as others mentioned above.
For such a relatively small issue, not worth replacing the pan.
cut it, change oil, drive the truck. in future if you have issues, then replace the pan.
 

Green_Manalishi

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Drill the hole, weld a nut or use JB Weld, to the outside of the pan. Insert bolt with washer.
 

DILLIGAF

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What in the actual **** is this ****... lol..

Was the grease monkey who did your swap blind or ******** ?

Only one way to fix this properly. Drop the pan and install the proper one.
 

Wild one

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What in the actual **** is this ****... lol..

Was the grease monkey who did your swap blind or ******** ?

Only one way to fix this properly. Drop the pan and install the proper one.
Notching the crossmember is alot easier,and if the pan isn't leaking is probably the better fix Ian,then pulling the engine again to swap oilpans and pick-up tubes
 

turkeybird56

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Notching the crossmember is alot easier,and if the pan isn't leaking is probably the better fix Ian,then pulling the engine again to swap oilpans and pick-up tubes
I would notch that puppy just far enuf, get out bolt, drain, change oil and but in like a Fujomoto, or some other alternative that would give access for draining the oil.

BOIRD, I a PITA. I would MAKE SHOP do a pan change and get proper one on there, but it may be the proper one for the engine dropped in, may have to put on a different pan with a different drain location, BUT that is JUST me.
 

turkeybird56

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Notching the crossmember is alot easier,and if the pan isn't leaking is probably the better fix Ian,then pulling the engine again to swap oilpans and pick-up tubes
YEAH, seems like once U pull stuff, sometimes things are just neva right again. Remember the old days, no body washed off or cleaned their motors, all believed that MYTH that all the dirt and grease stopped the leaks, roflmao.

ADDED: Ex had a 67 or was it 69 Dodge Dart with slant 6, U could grease a semi with all the built up grease, etc, lmao.
 
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Wild one

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Im way to OCD for that... lol..

But he paid someone and they should do it right.
I'm OCD to,but a properly notched crossmember wouldn't bother me .Once you weld a 1/2 a piece of pipe into it,splash some black paint on it,i'd call it good,especially if the original pan isn't leaking. Way more chances of flucking something up by having to pull the engine again to swap the oil pan.If the engines in the chassis and running good,i'd leave it alone
 

turkeybird56

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YEAH, NOT have to fix if NOT broken,. WHICH is why I still have my Original Radio fill on my Plain Jane U Connect 4 radio also (2018 original IOS), no upgrades, but they can only be done by dealer ne way, since I get no OTA's or any of dat BS.

As a kid, I must have kept Permatex in business all the gasket RTV used to buy from them, LOL.
 
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