Lifter Failure / Hot Oil / Better Cooling etc.

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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Ugh pissed off, Factorymopardirect (Ann Arbor Ram) sold the springs out from my order, tried to tell me they got sold between my original order and my second order where I added more parts. I’m like not possible I didn’t cancel my first order until after I placed the second one and I called and spoke to someone both times to verify stock

Then to cya they changed their story to oh our inventory was wrong the order they sold on shipped before yours.
Bull:favorites68:

Thankfully found them instock at a local-ish dealer. Pick them up one of these days.

Always, something
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Does anyone have the hemi specific valve spring compressor tool I can borrow? I’m trying to find it locally in one of the truck Fb groups but they’re taking their sweet time approving my add request.
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Hey let me ask a stupid question.
If I delete my mds, could I just run my truck in 8 all the time until I get my pcm unlocked and mds turned off/ tuned without throwing codes?

Will not having mds solenoids connected throw a code (in 8)?
 
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A_mod_too_far

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Question to the veterans here. Has anyone noticed if lifter failure is more likely to occur in hotter climates vs somewhere like Canada? Just curious if geographic location could play a roll
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Question to the veterans here. Has anyone noticed if lifter failure is more likely to occur in hotter climates vs somewhere like Canada? Just curious if geographic location could play a roll
I would say it’s more tied to oil temp; hotter and therefore thinner and less protective, vs ambient temp.

In other news the day is upon me, tonight I begin the tear down to get at these stupid lifters.
 

Wild one

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Question to the veterans here. Has anyone noticed if lifter failure is more likely to occur in hotter climates vs somewhere like Canada? Just curious if geographic location could play a roll
The colder climate might be offset by more idling though. Alot of vehicles up here in the winter do a pile of idling when it's -20F and colder. But if you were to factor out the idling time,there might be something to say about the climate,as the oil in the pan is going to be cooler when it's -20 going down the road at 60mph then it will be when it's 100 above
 
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Black1500Ram

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What’s a way to get the red injector locking tabs out when they break!?
I had 3 on the passenger side break from sun exposure / brittleness.
 
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These brittle plastics on the electronics SUCK now the handle on one of the pcm connections broke.

For anyone doing this, just unbolt the 3 10mm bolts holding the pcm and take it off the firewall. It’s not worth futzing with the electrical connectors.
 

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Wild one

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These brittle plastics on the electronics SUCK now the handle on one of the pcm connections broke
If the truck still runs,take it over to your local coin-op carwash and wash the hell out of everything under the hood ,then spray all your connectors down with WD 40 when you're trying to remove them. It's easier to take things apart when they're clean
 
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Black1500Ram

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If the truck still runs,take it over to your local coin-op carwash and wash the hell out of everything under the hood ,then spray all your connectors down with WD 40 when you're trying to remove them. It's easier to take things apart when they're clean
Thanks for the suggestion…
I’m way deep already.

Passenger head is off. Scuffed the exhaust surface before lunch… will do some more after lunch to get them real and then ramflex gaskets and afe headers going on, followed by mopar performance springs.
 

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Black1500Ram

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Ugh FML this cheap POS spring compressor tool I bought just stripped its threads and I’m only 6 springs in
 

Wild one

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View attachment 505588
Passenger cylinder head surface clean (enough) after a laborious scrubbing with the scuff pad (ever with goo gone) finished with wd40 pass and wipe down
If you have a wire brush similiar to this one,chuck it in your electric drill and clean up the combustion chambers while the heads are off.Leave the old plugs in place while you do it.

 
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Black1500Ram

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I’m still dealing with trying to finish swapping my springs since the stupid hemi specific tool stripped.

I rented the c clamp style spring compressor but the hemi springs are too close to the cylinder head wall for it to fully compress. I’ve tried a bunch of different angles.

Gonna have to go rent another style of compressor like this one I guess
 

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Wild one

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I’m still dealing with trying to finish swapping my springs since the stupid hemi specific tool stripped.

I rented the c clamp style spring compressor but the hemi springs are too close to the cylinder head wall for it to fill compress. I’ve tried a bunch of different angles.

Gonna have to go rent another style of compressor like this one I guess
Is this the spring compressor you bought? If it is,you could drill it out and install a Heli-coil and then use a Grade 8 bolt instead of the probably Grade 3 or Grade 5 bolt it comes with

 

DILLIGAF

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That tool works fine. Ive done 4 sets of heads with it. The only way it would strip is if someone used an impact on it. :cool:

I did buy the actual PowerHouse brand. Not sure on how the knoc offs would fair.
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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My passenger side lifters look fine

Sorry for the crappy pics I’ll take better ones tomorrow in the light
image.jpg
 

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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Is this the spring compressor you bought? If it is,you could drill it out and install a Heli-coil and then use a Grade 8 bolt instead of the probably Grade 3 or Grade 5 bolt it comes with

Yeah like that… it came with grade 8 bolt.

It’s getting returned I’m not keeping a $100+ tool that I have to fix to use.

And I did impact on it but only off , not tightening.

I’m just hoping that oem tools rental works otherwise I’m SOL for having my truck ready for Monday.
 
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