Using oil?

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jelih

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I've had my 2014 Hemi Ram for just over a year now. I've consistently had to put a quart of oil in every two weeks since I've had it. The pan gasket leaked when I first got it but the dealer fixed that and there are no more oil spots on the drive way. I can't tell that it leaks at all. It very seldomly, very lightly smokes at startup for a minute or two, but never when it's warmed up. It runs fantastic. Where the hell is my oil going?

The weather is cooling off so in a couple weeks I'm going change on the trans fluid and pan, and at that time I'll pull a spark plug or two to see how they look. I put new ones in when I first got it. So if they aren't covered in oil then I will be at a loss as to where it's all going. I'm at about 4500 miles since the last oil change, and I don't even want to bother changing it at 5k since I've basically already changed it completely since then. What do?
 

G-Ride990

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On start up it smokes for a minute or two? Even seldomly that is not a good sign, that is where your oil is going, smoking for that long is not normal.
Valve stem seals is not a really common issue on these engines so maybe its piston rings?
How many miles on the truck now?
 

Wild one

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I've had my 2014 Hemi Ram for just over a year now. I've consistently had to put a quart of oil in every two weeks since I've had it. The pan gasket leaked when I first got it but the dealer fixed that and there are no more oil spots on the drive way. I can't tell that it leaks at all. It very seldomly, very lightly smokes at startup for a minute or two, but never when it's warmed up. It runs fantastic. Where the hell is my oil going?

The weather is cooling off so in a couple weeks I'm going change on the trans fluid and pan, and at that time I'll pull a spark plug or two to see how they look. I put new ones in when I first got it. So if they aren't covered in oil then I will be at a loss as to where it's all going. I'm at about 4500 miles since the last oil change, and I don't even want to bother changing it at 5k since I've basically already changed it completely since then. What do?
Have somebody follow you,and take it out for a drive,and find a decent sized hill to coast down,if it smokes coasting downhill odds are the valve seals are weak,if it smokes going up the other side of the hill,it might have ring issues. I think a quart of oil every 1,000 miles still falls into Chrysler specs though.Also check the tailpipes for any oily residue
 

Burla

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Use thicker oil with low noack, maybe run sea foam through vac lines, redline si-1 in fuel tank, do both. Thinking that it could be piston rings and blowby. Thicker oil will cause less oil loss and cleaning rings just might help the issue. Hemi395 boroscope pic of redline si-1 shows that product cleans the carbon near the rings first. Three different engines boroscoped after redline showed the same thing, different engines and different owners as well. This is after pic the piston top one bottle of si-1. Bottom pic is "before" pic. To do the entire piston top it would take a couple bottles, and you would want to change the oil, but as you see the line of the piston right where the ring is gets clean with one bottle.

full-76018-37989-p33.jpg

cake-2.jpg
 

Burla

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That is thanks to PEA cleaner, only a couple products have high % PEA which is techron, but additives have way more then just gas, even high octane supreme. Corey tried some of the other PEA additives as well, but still had that before pic, they were ineffective, then he ran the redline and like everything else they make the proof is there.
 
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jelih

jelih

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Have somebody follow you,and take it out for a drive,and find a decent sized hill to coast down,if it smokes coasting downhill odds are the valve seals are weak,if it smokes going up the other side of the hill,it might have ring issues. I think a quart of oil every 1,000 miles still falls into Chrysler specs though.Also check the tailpipes for any oily residue
Lol are you being serious with the 1q/1k miles thing?

I'm in flat ass Houston. We have a couple steep bridges though. Gonna have to get my wife to drive and I follow her. But thanks. I will do this.
 
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jelih

jelih

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Use thicker oil with low noack, maybe run sea foam through vac lines, redline si-1 in fuel tank, do both. Thinking that it could be piston rings and blowby. Thicker oil will cause less oil loss and cleaning rings just might help the issue. Hemi395 boroscope pic of redline si-1 shows that product cleans the carbon near the rings first. Three different engines boroscoped after redline showed the same thing, different engines and different owners as well. This is after pic the piston top one bottle of si-1. Bottom pic is "before" pic. To do the entire piston top it would take a couple bottles, and you would want to change the oil, but as you see the line of the piston right where the ring is gets clean with one bottle.

View attachment 506328

View attachment 506329
I've been running Mobil super synthetic 5w30 in it the whole time. How much thicker should I go? I'll have to research the noack as even after all the oil stuff I've read on here in the past I don't think I've ever seen that word. Will do the redline and seafoam stuff for sure.
 

CamperMike

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Even though it is using oil and you have"replaced" wire a bit due to that you still should change it at the same time. With all the blowby that oil is contaminated and ready to be replaced in full. Also keeping fresh oil with all the detergents in there might help and certainly won't hurt.
 

CamperMike

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I've been running Mobil super synthetic 5w30 in it the whole time. How much thicker should I go? I'll have to research the noack as even after all the oil stuff I've read on here in the past I don't think I've ever seen that word. Will do the redline and seafoam stuff for sure.
I don't have much of a suggestion on oil thickness but the Mobil super synthetic is what I use on my 05 mustang. When I got it a few years ago with 181k miles it used a quart in 2k miles or so. Now after a few timely oil changes with good oil, usage is next to nothing even though it does now leak a bit from the oil pan gasket.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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1 quart per 1000 miles is fairly standard for engine specifications. I've only had 2 vehicles that used oil but both were under specs when I went to the dealership for the issue.

One was a 5.3 Chevy the other a 403 Olds.

Sold the Chevy still got the Olds, At over 40 years old, it still uses oil between changes and its driven less than 3 k a year
 

Burla

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Low NOACK is a low evaporation rate, they super heat oil and measure the loss. I don't have an issue with the oil usage, my best vehicle ever I had for 11 years used more oil then anything I ever had, the 351w. I have an issue with you saying it is smoking plus oil usage, so it sounds like valves or rings to me. Have someone start it while you put eyes on pipes, is it blueish?

NOACK usually follows thickness, same brand a 0w40 will have lower NOACK then 5w30 and that will be lower then 5w20. But some oils (redline 5w30 or amsoil) use saturated base oils and will have NOACK like 5-7, usually shelf oils NOACK 11-13. You can achieve the same thing by just moving to a 40 weight to see if it helps. I'd stay with 0w40 personally, PUP or m1 are great choices, any dexos 0w40 will give you a good noack for this.
 
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jelih

jelih

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Low NOACK is a low evaporation rate, they super heat oil and measure the loss. I don't have an issue with the oil usage, my best vehicle ever I had for 11 years used more oil then anything I ever had, the 351w. I have an issue with you saying it is smoking plus oil usage, so it sounds like valves or rings to me. Have someone start it while you put eyes on pipes, is it blueish?

NOACK usually follows thickness, same brand a 0w40 will have lower NOACK then 5w30 and that will be lower then 5w20. But some oils (redline 5w30 or amsoil) use saturated base oils and will have NOACK like 5-7, usually shelf oils NOACK 11-13. You can achieve the same thing by just moving to a 40 weight to see if it helps. I'd stay with 0w40 personally, PUP or m1 are great choices, any dexos 0w40 will give you a good noack for this.
Tried to video the exhaust pipes while remote starting yesterday and no smoke at all lol. Like I said, it smokes very very seldom, but I have seen it happen. It still runs fantastic with no noticeable lack of power. Mileage was as expected when i bought it, and it has changed as expected every time Ive made a major change (lift/level, efan, rear gear).It's the 1 quart every two weeks thing with no obvious leak that worries me. In 2 weeks I drive between 300-400 miles, in 20-25 engine hours. I looked at my driveway again today and there are no big spots. Last time I changed the oil there was no obvious sign of a leak. I'll crawl under it tomorrow and check again. There's also no obvious leaks under the hood anywhere.

I have a 4 pack of the redline stuff in the Amazon cart that I'll pick up on payday. I guess one of those scope cameras to take a pic of the tops of a few pistons wouldn't be a bad idea either to track the progress. Is there a cylinder that is known for being dirtier than the rest for some reason? I'd for sure want to use that as one of test subjects.
 
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jelih

jelih

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On start up it smokes for a minute or two? Even seldomly that is not a good sign, that is where your oil is going, smoking for that long is not normal.
Valve stem seals is not a really common issue on these engines so maybe its piston rings?
How many miles on the truck now?
Bought it with 135k miles. Approaching 150k. I tried to take a video of the pipes on a cold start using the remote start after it sat for almost 11 hours. No smoke at all. I've only seen it a few times. I don't remember there being a smell other than exhaust.
 

Burla

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Tried to video the exhaust pipes while remote starting yesterday and no smoke at all lol. Like I said, it smokes very very seldom, but I have seen it happen. It still runs fantastic with no noticeable lack of power. Mileage was as expected when i bought it, and it has changed as expected every time Ive made a major change (lift/level, efan, rear gear).It's the 1 quart every two weeks thing with no obvious leak that worries me. In 2 weeks I drive between 300-400 miles, in 20-25 engine hours. I looked at my driveway again today and there are no big spots. Last time I changed the oil there was no obvious sign of a leak. I'll crawl under it tomorrow and check again. There's also no obvious leaks under the hood anywhere.

I have a 4 pack of the redline stuff in the Amazon cart that I'll pick up on payday. I guess one of those scope cameras to take a pic of the tops of a few pistons wouldn't be a bad idea either to track the progress. Is there a cylinder that is known for being dirtier than the rest for some reason? I'd for sure want to use that as one of test subjects.
maybe the closest ones to throttle body where the gunk is sprayed first.
 
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jelih

jelih

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I don't understand what you mean by that @Burla
 
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Burla

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I don't understand what you mean by that @Burla
the oil and blowby from pcv comes from back of engine, it in theory the back cylinders could have more carbon then front as oil burning is gonna make more carbon then gas, but yes this is just a theory. With those miles it is likely all the cylinders are caked good.
 

Tominator223

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There’s a polymer additive to soften all seals . I think it’s called poly 305 or something like . Can be used in engine, trans, or diff. Might help with valve seals. I saw Scotty k. Use it in one of his UT vids. May help
 

ayesijuan

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On start up it smokes for a minute or two? Even seldomly that is not a good sign, that is where your oil is going, smoking for that long is not normal.
Valve stem seals is not a really common issue on these engines so maybe its piston rings?
How many miles on the truck now?
I have a similar problem with my 2007 Ram 1500 4.7. It is using a couple of quarts a week and a bottle of antifreeze. My mechanic buddy says it could be the intake manifold gasket or the manifold itself. Now I have a tapping noise coming from the engine.
Whaddayathink?
 
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