Active grill shutters code U11E9

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48prerunner

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What do you mean they cycle? do you see them close and open? I think when mine was throwing the code I could manually close them and they would open but they would not do the cycle at start up. maybe you have a break in the wire that makes a connection sometimes. I got lucky when i was testing my harness with a power probe wiggled the wires and got the open circuit.
 

mpiac

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What do you mean they cycle? do you see them close and open? I think when mine was throwing the code I could manually close them and they would open but they would not do the cycle at start up. maybe you have a break in the wire that makes a connection sometimes. I got lucky when i was testing my harness with a power probe wiggled the wires and got the open circuit.

Here's my issue on this subject. Could someone let me know what you think the fix might be here. My 2019 RAM 1500 has the same code. I've pulled the grill off and tested the pigtail that attaches to the AGS motor. With engine off I get about 13DCV reading and 0 OHMS. With engine running I get about 13 DCV, 31 ACV, and 0 OHMS (I'm no electrician, so back me up on my testing method for ground. I put one lead in the ground slot on the pigtail and the other to a grounding point in the engine compartment).

When I attach the pigtail to the AGS motor, the slats are driven open. The slats do NOT cycle when I start the engine, they remain in the open position. When I tested the pigtail, I tried moving it around with the leads attached the best I could while maintaining contact to see if maybe that would trigger a loose connection somewhere. Didn't seem to change the value for any of the readings. At this point I'm thinking my wiring is good, maybe the shutter motor is bad???
 

Longo81

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Here's my issue on this subject. Could someone let me know what you think the fix might be here. My 2019 RAM 1500 has the same code. I've pulled the grill off and tested the pigtail that attaches to the AGS motor. With engine off I get about 13DCV reading and 0 OHMS. With engine running I get about 13 DCV, 31 ACV, and 0 OHMS (I'm no electrician, so back me up on my testing method for ground. I put one lead in the ground slot on the pigtail and the other to a grounding point in the engine compartment).

When I attach the pigtail to the AGS motor, the slats are driven open. The slats do NOT cycle when I start the engine, they remain in the open position. When I tested the pigtail, I tried moving it around with the leads attached the best I could while maintaining contact to see if maybe that would trigger a loose connection somewhere. Didn't seem to change the value for any of the readings. At this point I'm thinking my wiring is good, maybe the shutter motor is bad???
Did you ever figure it out?
 

mpiac

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Did you ever figure it out?
No. Just dropped a lot of money on a spring break trip, so waiting to buy a new AGS. If it's not that, then I'm thinking it could be in PCM, but at that point I'm probably going to take it to a trusted shop since I have no patience for running down wiring/electrical issues.
 

howster1

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I've a 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie with 30,000 miles and got a CEL.wirh a U11E9 error code last week. I have a basic $35 Autel OBD2 Scanner Autolink AL319 that detected it. Previous 5 starts I got the CEL and last start the CEL never came on. I brought it to my Chrysler dealer yesterday (ironically when CEL decided to turn itself off en route) and they did a diagnostic confirming I had a U11E9 error code in history. Charged $150 for that revelation. Must have taken them 30 seconds because their diagnostics usually cost $199.95 and assume an hour of the technician's time. They recommended a complete replacement of AGS for $980. All in all it would cost $1253 (incl tax, parts and labor) to hopefully work. A bit like if the fridge light stops working then replace the fridge. :) Dealer in MA. I'm just outside my 3yr warranty too and understand this will cause me to fail State Inspection.
Hoping this is a debris issue that resolved itself. Maybe a delicate high tech, yet sophisticated, blast of the leaf blower ️ to the grille may help! Will bring to my local mechanic to see if he can suggest a fix and will report back if anything helps.
 
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ediekeith

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Thanks for all the info on this one. I have had the same issues as many before me. I have replaced the AGS and the pig tail to the AGS. I have a good ground and 12-14v at the connector. LIN bus wire is measuring around 1V between it and the ground. Does anyone have an idea what the LIN bus voltage would read normally at the AGS connector when running?
 

Tach_tech

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If there’s only 1v on the LIN bus that’s a problem. I’d have to check but I’m fairly certain should be 9v minimum on the LIN bus.
 

ediekeith

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If there’s only 1v on the LIN bus that’s a problem. I’d have to check but I’m fairly certain should be 9v minimum on the LIN bus.
Thank you for the info. I was afraid that would be the response. Do you have any suggestion of what to check next? Do you know where that LIN bus runs to that I could check continuity? I am wondering if it is that wire or a PCM issue.
 

Tach_tech

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Thank you for the info. I was afraid that would be the response. Do you have any suggestion of what to check next? Do you know where that LIN bus runs to that I could check continuity? I am wondering if it is that wire or a PCM issue.
LIN bus wiring goes to the PCM. I would have my doubts its a PCM issue, most likely a damaged wire.
 

ediekeith

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LIN bus wiring goes to the PCM. I would have my doubts its a PCM issue, most likely a damaged wire.
Agreed, more likely a bad wire than an PCM issue. Any chance you know the pin number and connector in the PCM? I can seem to find a PCM pin out anywhere. Thank you!
 

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Been meaning to comment on this thread fir the benefit of anyone else who winds up here googling that error code. I was shocked when the dealership replaced not the active grill shutters but instead the active air dam that sits under the truck. I was shocked because it successfully worked. Nowhere else did I see it mentioned that this code was anything other than a problem with the active grill shutters but clearly the dealership knew that even though the code points to the shutter, it was actually the air dam. Mine was under warranty but if I had to fix it myself I would have replaced the shutter which costs twice as much as the lower dam. It appears they are related regarding that code and it kinda makes sense since the lower damn will certainly get more abuse. Just an FYI.
 

Tach_tech

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That’s on a 5th gen truck. 4th gen only have only the active grill shutters. The active air dam was added on the 5th gens.

The active air dam and grill shutters on the 5th gen trucks use the same LIN bus so if either one of them fails it can take down the bus. Before I left the dealer world I’d replaced probably 4 or 5 active air dams on the new 5th gen trucks for loss of communication issues.
 

GTyankee

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he should have explained that you can remove the slats that are not solidly connected to the motor
Maybe he needed all that area clear, as he mentioned
===========================

discussion on the AGS & AAD & warranty extension

 

BuggyMasters

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That’s on a 5th gen truck. 4th gen only have only the active grill shutters. The active air dam was added on the 5th gens.

The active air dam and grill shutters on the 5th gen trucks use the same LIN bus so if either one of them fails it can take down the bus. Before I left the dealer world I’d replaced probably 4 or 5 active air dams on the new 5th gen trucks for loss of communication issues.

oh…didn’t know that.
 

pnwcummins19

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Can Somebody post a picture or wiring diagram of there factory ags plug? I have been dealing with this for quite a while. I have had to park the truck as its cold here and the truck never warms up as the fan runs nonstop since the cel is on due to ags code. I have traced wires and checked continuity on all but loose the lin bus (white with brown tracer?) just after the headlight so if it is broken in more than one place I will need to take more stuff off to see. if anybody has a wiring diagram or can confirm that the white wire is in fact the lin bus that would be great.
thanks
 

gregi

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I have been messing with this error code / CEL issue for a few weeks now. I bought a new AGS motor on ebay for $130, installed it, no change. It did move to the full open position when I first connected it up so I knew the motor was getting power. Finally tracked the problem down today. The LIN bus wire WHT/RED to the connector was broken (rotted through - see green copper oxide on the wire) about 1-1/2" from the connector. (see pics below). I soldered it and covered the joint with shrink tubing with a little hot melt glue inside to help keep the water out. Installed the old motor, works fine now. No codes. Voltage on the LIN bus wire (after repair) is ~11.75V with the engine running (not plugged into the motor). The motor will slowly cycle through its full range of motion when you start the engine. I tried to upload a short video but the server won't let me.
I hope this helps someone out there.
 

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D-No

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I have this issue. I checked the wiring and my fuse. All is good. Still have check engine light on with u11e9 code. So, is it the active grill shutter motor that needs to be replaced? Fortunately the grill is in the open position. I just want to be able to use my auto start and the truck stay running!
 

Tach_tech

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When you say you checked your wiring, you have proper voltages and ground at the AGS connector?
 

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