Mobil 1 EP VS Castrol EP

turkeybird56 said:

PUP is rebranded and sold to Mopar on the 5W20 and 5W30 dealer oils. Not know yet on the 0W 20 listed for the 22's, as I have a MY 19 and run 5W20, though with the higher temps in summer gonna go to 5W30 for summer and 5W20 for winter.

Wonder why they went to 0 weight instead of 5 weight. Did they need just a lil more cold protection? Burla need to chime in there on the difference between 0 W20 and 5W 20.

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2 words "government nannies". I personally wouldn't run a 0W-20 in my Hemi's,but there's lots of people who probably will.I'm sitting back and waiting,as i bet we'll see a bunch of new Hemi's with lifter issues show up in a year or 2

Wild one said:

2 words "government nannies". I personally wouldn't run a 0W-20 in my Hemi's,but there's lots of people who probably will.I'm sitting back and waiting,as i bet we'll see a bunch of new Hemi's with lifter issues show up in a year or 2

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Yeah, I gotta remember U and Burla be 2 peas in a pod ref oil. It makes no sense to me, but I had heard they changed the recommendations for the 2022's. I just personally do not know the specific difference between a 5W oil and a 0W oil. But why they change standards on a very long run and proven engine and lubrication strategy, who knows? Govt? Penny Pinching? lol. Cannot see either weight helping on lube and the ole MDS issue and lubrication in the valleys and needle valves, etc.,. BUT what do I know, I's a BOIRD.

turkeybird56 said:

You sure that not just a manual for you Piney's folks, LMAO (Joke). Wonder why they dropped down to 0 W 20 ref 5 W 20. Engine the same, except for (E torque) junkola (imho).

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And that recommendation doesn't specify E torque or not. My truck doesn't have E torque.

I wouldn't run 5-20 in my lawnmower FFS.

DILLIGAF said:

I wouldn't run 5-20 in my lawnmower FFS.

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I don't, roflmao. Run straight HD 30.

Im buying a Milwaukee lawnmower next year . Got to expensive ruining RL 5-30 in my old one...

BIG_KAHUNA said:

witch one of those two would you choose and why, do you think one is better than the other ?
EDIT IGNORE THE WEIGHT, I am interested in the brand .
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They’re all good if they meet OEM spec. I’m one of the folks these 20k extended intervals mean nothing. I do a 5k change with whatever on sale spec fully synthetic I can find and appreciate the buffer it offers if I do a coast to coast road trip and don’t need to perform a service enroute. Buy a good quality filter no matter what. Wix or Purolator for me.

I run the Mobil-1 at manufacturer specified weights in all of my vehicles and change it every 10k+/- miles. Engines all run smooth and one is a 2012 Subaru 2.5L with 150k miles on it. Never had any issues.

3 voa's 3 top 0w20 oils all show basically the same thing, because that is what happened with the latest specs, especially with dexos oils, pick based on something other then science like which bottle you like better because it wont matter much as long as you are staying within api gf-6. Pennzoil looks a hair better with a lil higher moly and boron, but they lose it with tbn and visc, but all are small differences.

Castrol didnt come though, here.

Consider this, if there is a deal on group 3 oil amazon basics, kirkland, havoline box, super tech and you can save 2 bucks a quart, and spend that 2 bucks on lubeguard biotech, then you have added substantially more protective additives and base oils to your sump for the same price. Find pour points or low viscosity performance numbers such as the cold crank numbers if you want the most desirable cold performance. The lower pour points with hint at pao level if you cant find it in sds. I am not up on current 0w20's minutia, but those are the numbers you should consider for any real difference. Noack as well, that amazon basics oil actually shows decent noack at under 10, not saying that is from pao because that number isnt low enough to hint at pao, but it is better then a lot of the field out there.

I'd been running the Castrol black bottle in my hemi but after I've read many threads on here where many are using Penzoil, I made the swich this year. Never really noticed the engine running differently nor a difference in gas mileage. In my gf's '11 Mazda 3, right after the warranty was done I started using either Castrol Edge EP or Mobil 1 EP also wich ever was on sale. Changed the oil twice a year (spring and fall) and over 300k miles later it still runs as good as new. I do the same with my '08 80k mile hemi wich is also changing the oil twice a year but I drive about 3k miles between oil changes compared to maybe 10-12k miles with the Mazda.

BIG_KAHUNA said:

witch one of those two would you choose and why, do you think one is better than the other ?
EDIT IGNORE THE WEIGHT, I am interested in the brand .
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I've used both and have had no problem with either one of them ... I usually go with Mobil 1 EP as it goes on sale more often and always use a Mobil 1 EP oil Filter as well ... Either one is a good choice ...

BIG_KAHUNA said:

witch one of those two would you choose and why, do you think one is better than the other ?
EDIT IGNORE THE WEIGHT, I am interested in the brand .
View attachment 507529View attachment 507530

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20,000 miles between oil changes? Really?

Both oils are DEXOS approved, which puts them in top tier. They are both API "SP", so they have a nitrogen based anti carbon/ sludge additive, among other anti foaming agents, stiction modifiers, yada yada. I'm thinking either would do just fine. But, I never, under ANY circumstances, go beyond 6000 miles between oil changes. My goal is at 5000 miles. This gives me leeway.

I think they went to 0 -20 oil to try and prevent lifter issues . Not sure but that would be my guess.Just checked owners manual and all that's listed is full synthetic 5w-20 . So that's what she'll get .

castrol is MB229.71 Approved that alone make me think castrol got the EDGE ...

smittyd174 said:

I think they went to 0 -20 oil to try and prevent lifter issues . Not sure but that would be my guess.Just checked owners manual and all that's listed is full synthetic 5w-20 . So that's what she'll get .

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0W20 and 0W16 oils were/are designed for low friction/ parasitic power loss. Period. I notice that almost all of the vehicles with Turbochargers call for 5W30. Here in Houston, where the buffalo roam and it is HOT during 8 months of the year, I routinely use 5W20 in place of the 0W16 & 20. The owner's manuals show this as acceptable in "Severe Use". Drive Houston freeways and you'll understand that a trip across town is "Severe" in and of itself!!!

nascar72 said:

I'd been running the Castrol black bottle in my hemi but after I've read many threads on here where many are using Penzoil, I made the swich this year. Never really noticed the engine running differently nor a difference in gas mileage.

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This is the big laugh in the oil debate..........who would of thunk you could tell it....

I have a 2008 5.7 that I bought new and has 168k miles currently. I’ve been using Castrol 5W20 Full Synthetic every 5k miles since day one and it is still running smooth and strong. I have never had any problems with the engine (knock on wood). I use it in my wife’s Ford Edge as well without any issues, once again, I change her oil every 5k also. I always pick up a couple of jugs when they go on sale and keep a few extras in the garage.

DILLIGAF said:

If only there was a thread already stating what oils are the best.

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There are many posts about what oil is best..............but it almost seems that every person has a different preference........ In this day and age, there shouldn't have to be any posts about what filters and oil you have to run in a vehicle, as long as it is a good quality oil and a good quality filter. Why Dodge 5.7's have to run a certain filter and a certain brand of oil is absolutely foolish. Every week on here is something about oils, filters, and the dreaded cam/lifter noise?????
I can't understand why an engine would be built in this day and age that can't be idled very long (I know idling is not good for any engine), and all the other DON'T DO THINGS that people post about the 5.7. I have had remote starts on every vehicle I have owned in the last 20 years, and where I live a remote start is used daily in the winter. I have had all brands of trucks over the years, although only 2 Dodge products, and I never had to have a thought about what I have to use for oils and filter. As I said, I always used the "high end" filters from a good brand, and the same for engine oil.
If I take my 2019 1500 Classic to my Ram dealer for an oil change - they use a Mopar filter and "bulk" oil. I don't know who makes Mopar filters, but I do know for a fact from working at OEM dealerships for over 20 years that the "bulk" oil is about as consistent as the weather. Whoever gives the manufacturer the best deal for a contract is where they get their bulk oil.
I use Mobil oil and NAPA Gold filters in my truck........... The truck is 3 years old with about 18,000 miles on it, and I have got the dealer to change the oil/filter twice, and I have done it 4 times (I always change oil sooner than I am supposed to) so I sure hope the cam and lifters last----IF NOT, THIS WILL BE MY FIRST AND LAST RAM

Ironhead3 said:

There are many posts about what oil is best...........

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UOA are not based on preference. They clearly state the oil additive content and yet people choose to ignore them.