2013 Alpine upgrade Jl Audio woofer and speakers

What a day. Rookie mistake...
Well with a bunch of altering the Kappa 693 will fit in the front door with a 1/4 inch spacer but when you put the door panel back on it pushes the door panel grill out like a 1/4 inch the tweeter pushes the grill pretty nasty.

Not worth it so don't waste your time
Basically they will not fit, even if you make them fit.

This was a pretty nice kit for the ends of the speaker wires, remote wire etc..






Also this for power and ground

Trying out the Kicker in the front, since the Kappa wouldn't fit. Wanted something with silk dome tweeter so the highs are smooth as silk and not piercing to the ear. The CDTs really perform even w amp at 50hz but want full range.

Might have left alone if the 693M Kappas in the back didn't outperform the CDTs full range.

K series. 47KSC69304 150w rms 4 ohm


They fit like a glove no spacer needed but they come spacers.


So far the K series seem legit and sound smooth, good highs and lows powered off a amp and are handling the power w No distortion.

Jl 900/5. They are a lot smaller than the Kappa so I thought they might be junk when I pulled them out of the box.

Only issue is bass rattling my black inner door panel. I put sound mat inside the actual door and on the backside of the door panel. Might have to do more on the black inner door panel.

I'm curious why you want full range in the doors when you have the upper range already in the dash?

The sound just didn't seem 100% and when I sat in the back I was impressed like that's how it should sound. I think I'm happy going to finish both sides and see if that was the missing link.

So far the kickers are impressing me loud and soft on the ears on the highs.

Will know for sure in a couple hours.

Based off of what I have heard so far If I was to redo I would just put the Kicker K series 47KSC 69304 in front and back. Fit perfect handle power and they are not bright on the highs.


The Kappas fit in rear but the tweeter pushes on the door panel and it took some tweeking vs plug and play.

.

Update

I think it sounds way better and clean. Just need to play with door crossover, not sure if I want 6x9 at 50 hz. 80 hz etc. They are knocking at 50hz and haven't heard any distortion yet.


@Mleads310 I'm not sure if it's because the front infinity 3.5s were only on stock Alpine amp and getting drowned out or the full range in the doors is just better. It does sound way better now to me. More of a full sound that I am surrounded by vs directional



Now onto flushing heater core, driver side heat is almost non existent.
Got a cheap flush tool on ebay probably will only use once or twice.
$30 bucks
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VCT-Coolan...f-e8bc-4aba-9894-656bbf1a0ef1&redirect=mobile

Havent used it yet though so not sure the quality

Well got the heater core flushed and do now have heat on driver side. the passenger side is still hotter but at least I get heat to the point I need to turn the heater down.

Flushed w air pressure about 30psi and my house has 40 psi of water pressure and I only turned the water on 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.

Definitely think I could have upped the water or air pressure but leaned on the side of caution to protect heater core.

The air/water nozzle is OK for home use it leaked a little but I may only use it 1 or 2 times so worth the 30 bucks, definitely a no go if you are a professional.

Got some 5/8 Id hose and some rubber stoppers and some 1/2 inch barbed splice connectors. The 1/2 barbed go on easy and will pop off if back pressure gets to high.


I did it from the engine block side not the firewall side, thats why i used the barbed splices, easier to access. The rubber stoppers were to plug the engine block when I removed the hoses.

Mleads310 said:

The stock speakers actually sounded really good as they were tuned by the alpine dsp/amp...believe it or not they were really great. The cdts are a step above that. I have my cdts amped with a kicker key. Without them amped you might not even notice a difference other than a drop in volume due to the cdts requiring more watts.
tho keep in mind I love the cdts so far, I'm just not getting the most out of them because I haven't changed the HU yet and am unable to tune them. It's actually been bothering me lately and I'm about to pull the trigger on changing the HU with a built in x over /eq.

Click to expand...

Mleads310 said:

The stock speakers actually sounded really good as they were tuned by the alpine dsp/amp...believe it or not they were really great. The cdts are a step above that. I have my cdts amped with a kicker key. Without them amped you might not even notice a difference other than a drop in volume due to the cdts requiring more watts.
tho keep in mind I love the cdts so far, I'm just not getting the most out of them because I haven't changed the HU yet and am unable to tune them. It's actually been bothering me lately and I'm about to pull the trigger on changing the HU with a built in x over /eq.

Click to expand...

I swapped to a uconnect 4C UAQ panasonic w carplay / android auto and for some reason everything sounds ALOT better and cleaner not sure why. Model panasonic 68461699AC from a stock 8.4 from 2013.