Conclusion = HPL replicated Red Line 0W-30 with improved ester.
They didn't actually replicate it. It's more than that. Red Line 0W-30 (the old formulation) had an API SL - era additive package that was top-treated with Molybdenum MoDTC and ZDDP (more of each). Red Line uses a majority PAO base stock and a large amount of POE co-base. The new formulation of Red Line uses a lesser API SP additive package and they are moving towards thicker Esters. The poor pour points and lower NOACK indicates that Red Line started using heavier Esters (so to speak). It's either that, or they are cheapening their oils to satisfy their corporate overlords. Time and testing will tell, I suppose.
I had a post about the new Red Line 0W-20 and 0W-30 on BITOG that I noticed was shared around here a while back. I hope it helped at least some you guys that use Red Line 0W-30 during the Winter.
What makes HPL Supercar 0W-30 special:
The formulation uses a majority PAO base stock, with Esters and ANs as co-bases. Esters help with cleaning and solvency, ANs do that plus add heat resistance and augment the additive package (so to speak). The additive package is a modern VW502/Porsche A40/MB 229.5 approved package (Infineum). It uses Trimer and Dimer Molybdenum compounds. It uses up to the max-efficiency Trimer and the rest is Dimer. It has a HTHS of 3.5, unlike Red Line 0W-30 which has a HTHS of 3.2~3.3. The HPL 0W-30 is ideal for all-year-around use.
The bottom line is that both Red Line and HPL make great products, and that you can't go wrong with either. And if the budget is tight, there is always Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, which contains a decent amount of Esters per Oil-Club.ru.
Here is an FTIR analysis of Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 (No, it does not contain the crazy amount of POE that Red Line does). However, PUP, PP, QS FS, QS Euro, Castrol, and SuperTech don't contain any Esters or ANs that help with cleaning, solvency, or additive augmentation. These oils use Group 1 as the additive carrier. Consequently, these oils that I just listed don't clean your HEMI at all, and if they create varnish or other gunk, well, it will stay there, because they can't clean after themselves.
The Yellow Marker is Ester, and there is a pretty good amount of it in Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. If money is tight and you have a ticking and/or neglected HEMI, a $15 quart of HPL EC30 engine cleaner and 6 quarts of Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 should clean up your HEMI in about 2000 miles or so. At least change the oil filter at 2000 miles and let it clean for the entire OCI. The HPL EC30 engine cleaner is a fully formulated motor oil using Ester as the base stock (yes, the entire base stock is Ester) and a HDEO additive package with ~1000ppm ZDDP and ~100ppm Trimer Moly. It also doesn't contain VII, it's a SAE 30 motor oil. Forget Lubegard Bio-Tech, that's old tech.
For comparison, here is Red Line Euro 5W-30 from 2022. It turns out that what stops the HEMI TICK and quiets down the HEMI is the Ester, not the Moly (Yellow Marker is a boat-load of Ester):
Quick note: what about AMSOIL?
Well, AMSOIL also uses POE, but not quite as much as Red Line. Also, AMSOIL SS 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 are all Resource Conserving oils. Therefore you might get the cleaning benefits of Ester, but you're not getting the MOFT of Red Line 0/5W-30.
@Hemi395 was right to use AMSOIL 0W-40 - it has HTHS of 3.7 (IIRC) and POE. A very good replacement for Red Line 5W-30.
Now, imagine how good a motor oil that has both ANs and Ester is for the HEMI.