Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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HEMIMANN

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Well I can't imagine being on the deck of the titanic for a different reason, I bet those folks sucked their fair share of smoke. They sure have improved on this design, put the stacks on the way back position.

View attachment 510289

That thing was a coal burner. Basically not much different than Bunker-C Residual fuel. Both are fossil slop.

We have a Great Lakes Ferry that crosses Lake Michigan that was still burning coal up to a few years ago. That thing smoked and stunk, too. I've watched it from port while salmon fishing.

 

JHoward

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Here we go!


Other than this being 0w/20, is this oil from the same oil company with an different lable?

I've seen both labels and I'm still not certain if both are the same, HPL or High Performance Lubricants?
 

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Travis8352

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Other than this being 0w/20, is this oil from the same oil company with an different lable?

I've seen both labels and I'm still not certain if both are the same, HPL or High Performance Lubricants?
Its blended by the same company but its a private label for precision turbo. Its not at all the same oil......heres a VOA20CCD31F-444F-43F4-9891-70279506C52F.png



Its definately a streetable oil but its target market is racing. Its loaded with FM/AW additives but has a stout detergent pack for running on the street to. Its overkill but its not intended for a daily driver.
 

ramffml

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Other than this being 0w/20, is this oil from the same oil company with an different lable?

I've seen both labels and I'm still not certain if both are the same, HPL or High Performance Lubricants?

This is the official distributor:
 

Rod Knock

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I have valvoline ep, I will use it for a 1k than I got the amsoil signature, after that im getting the HPL to thy it.
How can you tell if there is a difference between these motor oils?

So the bean counters override the engineering department?
The engineers care about keeping their job if it's a well paying one. If it's not, they stick around long enough until they can move on to something better. The accounting department is kept on a short leash by upper management. So the engineers don't need much convincing, they will do as they're told.

It's kinda like when Pennzoil (Shell) uses Group I oil as an additive carrier so they don't have to spend money on good stuff like POE, TMP, or ANs. Then try to force RAM owners to use their garbage by engraving it in the owner's manual. I'm glad this non-sense ended when the FCA-PSA merger happened and Stelantis was formed.

To wit: this is the same company that doesn't know what oil to use in their EcoDiesel and recommends ATF+4 where SAE 50 belongs.

/mini rant over
 

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Awe man I **** you not, Takata air bags are back in the news again! Apparently VW's recalled because no joke those air bags can still kill people, like wtf? Mind you these recalls started in the 1990's, lol. We have to start deleting air bags like we do mds?
 

huntergreen

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Awe man I **** you not, Takata air bags are back in the news again! Apparently VW's recalled because no joke those air bags can still kill people, like wtf? Mind you these recalls started in the 1990's, lol. We have to start deleting air bags like we do mds?
Is there no other airbag company ?
 

BIG_KAHUNA

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What do you hope to learn from it? What kind of RAM truck do you have?
actually I sold my ram was 2020 Laramie , now I own a gmc AT4 with a 6.2L v8 , I just want to see the additive package in the oil and also to see how well the engine is wearing on this early stage, i'm sure I will see tons of iron in it......
 

huntergreen

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actually I sold my ram was 2020 Laramie , now I own a gmc AT4 with a 6.2L v8 , I just want to see the additive package in the oil and also to see how well the engine is wearing on this early stage, i'm sure I will see tons of iron in it......
What oil are you using ? How do you like the 6.2 engine ?
 

Travis8352

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Well HPL supercar 0w30 is in with a fram ultra XG2. Still wire backed synthetic media i can see the wire backing thru the holes in the centertube. So far so good truck sounds awesome, it always did so i didnt expect a change. Its amazing how little odor comes from this oil! I never used redline but i recall some of you guys saying it has a strong smell. Not this HPL it has almost zero odor. Ill make a bigger post once i get more miles on but so far so good. Idle oil psi is the same at 201F as with mobil 1 FS 0w40. I figured it would be as they are nearly the same viscosity on a PDS at 100C
 

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Redline smells like brandy, likely from the reaction it takes to make ester (alcohol and acid), but the exact reason i do not know. Could even be additive related. But it is a nice story, we need some guys with hemi tick to dance with this stuff before we know for sure if it is a redline replacement. It certainly has my blessing and belief it is in theory every bit as good as redline and perhaps even better at killing tick. I hope some guys embrace this option. Redline also has a little red tint to it, just a hair.

49474167087_2eb9ece677_z-jpg.jpg
 

HEMIMANN

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Yeah, Red Line is supposed to have more ester base oil, and they are a very different molecule than PAO. They're polar and branched, and not made from fossil hydrocarbons at all. They're a chemically reacted acid & alcohol molecule. They smell. Just like Jet Oil.

Anyway, good news here. I bet you'll have great results.

I don't get what Fram Ultra is doing. They made a huge stink about changing to dual layer synthetic media that didn't require wire backing. This was many months ago. Are we still getting old filter inventory?
 

HEMIMANN

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Redline smells like brandy, likely from the reaction it takes to make ester (alcohol and acid), but the exact reason i do not know. Could even be additive related. But it is a nice story, we need some guys with hemi tick to dance with this stuff before we know for sure if it is a redline replacement. It certainly has my blessing and belief it is in theory every bit as good as redline and perhaps even better at killing tick. I hope some guys embrace this option. Redline also has a little red tint to it, just a hair.

49474167087_2eb9ece677_z-jpg.jpg

Damn, you're quick!

Must be younger.
 

ramffml

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I'd still like some more discussion on the whole premium plus vs super car formulas.

Is there any thing that would suggest using that the PP is not a good choice for towing in the heat of summer?
Would the specs suggest PP 0w-30 is worse than the old RL 0w-30 formula?

I'm drawn to the PP due to the cold winter start abilities, but I'm not sure my OCI is going to nicely lineup in the future with one in the fall (PP) and one in the spring (supercar for better heat/towing?). So I may need to pick one and just run it year round and change the oil when I hit 10k KMs.
 

ramffml

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Also on a different thought, I was reading up on HPL on the bitog forum few days ago and stumbled across a post where one guy said (if I read it correctly) that 5w30 might be better in the winter than 0w-30 if your temps are within range of 5w-30, because the thicker viscosity will help prevent the piston head from slapping up against the cylinder wall - until the engine heats up at which point the aluminum piston is within the proper clearance of the cylinder and the oil has thinned out.

Thought that was interesting. Here I was chasing the 0w-30/40 for two winters now, I have a knocking that appears when cold and trying to get better cold start oil. I don't know whether that is piston slap in my truck, I just know it doesn't make the noise when I start it and it's hot.
 

HEMIMANN

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I think BITOG is wrong because Hemi is known oil starved @ low rpm, so decreasing temp causes more starvation.

If piston slap was viscosity caused, it would be at high temp, not low temp.

Edit: this is pretty cryptic. The above is meant for the same viscosity grade oil. Clearly, the engine doesn't slap except during start, and when it's cold. That is a classic symptom oil draindown and starvation. Anything to alleviate that is helpful = lower viscosity oil, polar oil (POE), lower flow restriction (larger oil filter media), block heater, etc.

Frankly. if piston slap is being caused by too great of thermal contraction of the aluminum piston relative to the cast iron cylinder sleeve, to me, the power cylinder is not designed properly and I'd rather put up with slap at start than starving lifter rollers at start.

btw, the GM 5.3 V8 debacle with AFM oil pumping @ mid mileage was found to be due to both cylinder deactivation (cold cylinder) and sloppy, cost-reduced power cylinder design, leading to stuck piston rings.
 
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HEMIMANN

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I'd still like some more discussion on the whole premium plus vs super car formulas.

Is there any thing that would suggest using that the PP is not a good choice for towing in the heat of summer?
Would the specs suggest PP 0w-30 is worse than the old RL 0w-30 formula?

I'm drawn to the PP due to the cold winter start abilities, but I'm not sure my OCI is going to nicely lineup in the future with one in the fall (PP) and one in the spring (supercar for better heat/towing?). So I may need to pick one and just run it year round and change the oil when I hit 10k KMs.

Dave @ HPL helped us think of it this way - they targeted Premium Plus engine oil for API SP engines. Recall SP was targeted to engines susceptable to LSPI and higher power densities (better gas mileage). That means the little turbo motors with GDI.

They targeted Super car for API SN engines, just like Red Line oil - lots and lots of additives, even though Premium Plus still has enough moly for Hemis.

They also made Super Car stiffer = higher viscosity within the SAE grades for better load carrying / towing. Super car also has 17% higher HTHS viscosity. Clearly, Super Car is for trucks, Premium Plus is for go carts.

Hope this helps.
 
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