Issues after cam swap

Wild one · Jan 9, 2023

Apager said:
It was recommended by someone earlier in the thread to lap the valves. I have since changed my mind as I checked for leaks and there are none.

Read post 18 then post 19,and it'll make more sense why i mentioned lapping the valves

indept · Jan 9, 2023

Post pics of cam & lifters when you can.

Ralph Mauro · Jan 11, 2023

What about your timing have you checked to see if it is out a tooth?

Kap1 · Jan 11, 2023

Why don't you start a Gofundme page for this project so you can buy quality parts? At 19 years old you're doing pretty incredible... Hopefully it all works out at the end

Bandit1859 · Jan 12, 2023

Apager said:
Morning all,

Taking to this group for some help on my cam swap I did on my 09 HEMI. Just got done replacing JUST the cam (no lifters). Re timed it by lining up the marks on the chain with the phaser at 12 o clock and pointing the keyway of the crank at 3 o clock (or towards the 5.7 mark on the oil pump). After starting the truck runs extremely rough and idles high (1.2). Trying to rev it up and it doesn’t go past 2k rpm. Attached are the codes that it is throwing.

So my next question is where do I start. Take the valve covers off and see if the rockers are going down like they should? I’m really hoping it’s not the timing so I don’t have to tear everything apart again.

ANY help would be appreciated.

Apauger

Your work will not last the lifters a damaged also. You always change them as a set

Daily Driver44 · Jan 13, 2023

So this is just me but i agree with the thread and always replace lifters with the camshaft solely because they wear out together. Addressing the elephant in the room here - cost!!
it is expesive, no way around it.
I did my 2012 1500 ram with a 2016 dodge charger 392 cam and non mds lifters with a tuner that only turned off the mds. there are many of them out there that will do the job. that said i removed the mds solenoids and installed plugs in there place. this is "A" preferred method.
You can still run MDS just replace the lifters with the same newer lifters.
Chrystler has gotten a lot of heat for this but basically comes down to proper maintenance.

In Short do it right the 1st time!!!
If you use the 392(6.4L) cam it is actually cheaper than the 345(5.7L) cam off of rockauto.com. Then again you can always go with aftermarket cams. again its costly. looking at the power graphs though most of the aftermarket cams dont see any gains until you run 4000 rpm or more and the 392 is a more aggressive cam on bottom end so thats the way i went.

I did the work all by myself and outside of the oil and fluids, the parts were roughly 600 dollars. thats cam, lifters, and gaskets (rockauto.com).

Hope this helps.

SouthernBornRebel · Jan 14, 2023

Always buy Cam & Lifter sets

Apager · Jan 18, 2023

Morning gentlemen..

A little update on the ram.

I took out the cam to find some slight damage to.. you guessed it.. the lobe with the damaged lifter. Speaking of damaged lifter! The failed lifter had a complete flat spot in it. I took the cam to a local machine show where he put it on his cam polisher and sent me home with some 800 grit.. and I installed it after using his advice and doing a little polishing. New lifters were installed, and I just re timed (properly and spun the engine to make sure) yesterday. New head gaskets.. studs.. etc.

PRAYING that this thing runs. My only concern throughout the process is that quite a bit of dirt fell into the internals throughout the process. I did the best job I could cleaning it up, but still.

My next question.. I put the rocker arms on and looking into the intake valves, three of them on the right (looking into the engine) are partly open. Is this right? Or am I doing something wrong...

Will attach pictures this afternoon as I am typing this in class... LOL..

Apager · Jan 18, 2023

Kap1 said:
Why don't you start a Gofundme page for this project so you can buy quality parts? At 19 years old you're doing pretty incredible... Hopefully it all works out at the end

Thanks man. I never got to learn this stuff from my dad so I have recently turned to this page for advice. Needless to say it has been an absolute life saver...

jws123 · Jan 18, 2023

About the intake valves turn the engine by hand each of them should 100% close at some point if not the push rods are not seated or the valves are bent.

Apager · Jan 19, 2023

Apager said:
Morning gentlemen..

A little update on the ram.

I took out the cam to find some slight damage to.. you guessed it.. the lobe with the damaged lifter. Speaking of damaged lifter! The failed lifter had a complete flat spot in it. I took the cam to a local machine show where he put it on his cam polisher and sent me home with some 800 grit.. and I installed it after using his advice and doing a little polishing. New lifters were installed, and I just re timed (properly and spun the engine to make sure) yesterday. New head gaskets.. studs.. etc.

PRAYING that this thing runs. My only concern throughout the process is that quite a bit of dirt fell into the internals throughout the process. I did the best job I could cleaning it up, but still.

My next question.. I put the rocker arms on and looking into the intake valves, three of them on the right (looking into the engine) are partly open. Is this right? Or am I doing something wrong...

Will attach pictures this afternoon as I am typing this in class... LOL..

Issues after cam swap

Wild one

Senior Member

indept

Senior Member

Ralph Mauro

Junior Member

Kap1

Ex Ram 1500 2013 owner

Bandit1859

Senior Member

Daily Driver44

Member

SouthernBornRebel

Senior Member

Apager

Member

Apager

Member

jws123

Senior Member

Apager

Member

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