Exhaust manifold Leak

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CamperMike

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well got truck back from dealer !!!!
it was a cracked manifold and broken studs!
replaced manifold studs gasket and heat shield
no charge done under warranty but only one side leaking going to keep eye on left side
I got the right side done just before warranty expired. Now 6k miles past warranty the left side is leaking but not too loud yet. I think I'll leave it thru winter then fix it in the spring.
 

KansasArt

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i have a 2019 1500 classic 5.7 Hemi !
like most of the 5.7 Hemi's i to have a leak on left side ( passenger side)

For future reference; the passenger side of the engine bay (or anything else on a vehicle) is the right side. Reference it from sitting in the truck. Passenger side is right side, driver is left.
 
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Jim BB

Jim BB

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For future reference; the passenger side of the engine bay (or anything else on a vehicle) is the right side. Reference it from sitting in the truck. Passenger side is right side, driver is left.
lol you are correct ! i was thinking of something else at the time of writing this ! thank you for correction
 

Justin33

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sure sounds like a manifold leak
Good to know least it’s not the lifters this is a 2015 with 30k miles I asked dealer to check twice while it was still under warranty. Even have it in oil change notes I think. Pretty cute now they will probably tell me they hear something. Kind of want to be like yeah I had you check twice while it was still under warranty dummies.
 

EdGs

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Reach in through the wheel wells and grab the heat shields (when the engine is cold, of course) and see if they are loose.

Takes 30 seconds to check, as the bolts that hold the shield are the most likely to break. You can also get an idea whether they are broken flush with the cylinder head or if there is a stub sticking out, just by feel.
 

rzims

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Glad I found this thread. Dealer pointed out my truck has the leak but said I was out of warranty at 90k so I was going to take it to my local mechanic for repair.
In reading my warranty it looks like the manifold is only covered for 24,000 miles and the basic powertrain warranty is only 60,000 miles....
Am I missing something?
 
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1 MEAN66

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If mine leak, They will be replaced with "Shorty Headers"! Might as well pick up more HP/TG for the money. And I have been told the ones with the 3/8 inch thick flange are the ones to go with.
 

Phirebeard

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Glad I found this thread. Dealer pointed out my truck has the leak but said I was out of warranty at 90k so I was going to take it to my local mechanic for repair.
In reading my warranty it looks like the manifold is only covered for 24,000 miles and the basic powertrain warranty is only 60,000 miles....
Am I missing something?
This issue is usually covered under the PT warranty. Fun story- I had the bolts break on my driver side manifold @57k miles. Dealer replaced under warranty. 13k and 1.5 years later, same bolts broken. Dealer told me to bugger off as it's out of warranty now... Shorties are getting installed in spring.
 

Taspeace

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I had my two warped manifolds pulled and belt sanded on a professional "sanding table". It was very easy to see that the rear port on both manifolds had been leaking in all directions and that there was a smaller leak on the front port on one of the manifolds. No cracks could be found.

In 5 minutes both manifolds were flat and shiny across their entire length. Cost $40. I had them reinstalled using Remflex gaskets (you give up the aluminum heat shields that are on the stock gaskets and also on FelPro gaskets). I used Dorman stainless steel bolts that I had purchased, but removed the Loctite compound from the threads and had the mechanic use anti-sieze on them. I don't actually expect that the stainless steel will be better than the high tensile strength option bolts that Dorman also sells. Everything has been great since doing the work, and I don't notice any problems with excess heating of parts of the engine that are near the manifolds. Headers, after all, would be much worse for heat transfer and I've never heard people complain about ill effects from heat the that headers radiate. Two hours labor for pulling and reinstalling the manifolds. THREE HOURS LABOR FOR REMOVING THE FIVE BROKEN MANIFOLD BOLTS, two of which had to have hex heads welded onto them in order to be removed. I'm happy that things have turned out so well, and thrilled that it wasn't me under there cursing those broken manifold bolts! I'm hoping to be done with this for the remainder of the truck's life.

One unforeseen difficulty I had was that I couldn't find anyone in my area of over 150,000 residents to mill the manifolds. Several machine shops have closed due to slow business during Covid, but one place told me the real problem is that manifolds which have gone through many, many heat/cool cycles become so hard that they break the bits that are used in the milling machines, so customers don't want to pay what it would cost to mill them. He suggested a high quality industrial sanding machine - not the hand held 3" belt sander that I inherited from my father - and that's what I ended up going with. When I saw how good they looked, I knew that the Remflex 100% graphite gaskets, which have a 50% crush factor and are good for up to 3000 degrees, would do the rest of the job of sealing the manifolds tightly to the heads. And, as I've said, "So far, so good."
 

OutpostRam

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Just a heads up. Talked with the Ram dealer Service Advisor concerning the broken exhaust manifold studs. He stated that one hemi truck came into the shop after the customer tried the weld technique to remove the residual broken stud. Because the negative battery cable was NOT disconnected during the weld operation, the CPU was fried! Careful when doing this.
 

CanuckRam1313

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If mine leak, They will be replaced with "Shorty Headers"! Might as well pick up more HP/TG for the money. And I have been told the ones with the 3/8 inch thick flange are the ones to go with.
Yes! (and they will leak, eventually)

I recently installed the JBA titanium ceramic coated shorty's with SRT 3-layer gaskets and SRT bolts (factory dipped ends with heat activated loc-tite), and what a great boost in torque. Direct bolt up to the stock system.

I recommend that you also schlock on a thick bead of orange RTV on each collector where it bolts up to the cats to ensure a nice, leak free installation. I did, and no issues whatsoever with smell, codes, cat contamination, etc.

If you're going that far, look at doing a custom y-pipe to rid yourself of the ridiculously restrictive stock one (a pair of 2.5" pipes smashed into one, and then out to the rest of the system). There is a real net in torque in doing this mod too.


My $0.02
 

Wild one

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Yes! (and they will leak, eventually)

I recently installed the JBA titanium ceramic coated shorty's with SRT 3-layer gaskets and SRT bolts (factory dipped ends with heat activated loc-tite), and what a great boost in torque. Direct bolt up to the stock system.

I recommend that you also schlock on a thick bead of orange RTV on each collector where it bolts up to the cats to ensure a nice, leak free installation. I did, and no issues whatsoever with smell, codes, cat contamination, etc.

If you're going that far, look at doing a custom y-pipe to rid yourself of the ridiculously restrictive stock one (a pair of 2.5" pipes smashed into one, and then out to the rest of the system). There is a real net in torque in doing this mod too.


My $0.02
If you think you picked up torque with shorties,a set of long tubes would of blown your mind,as they blow a set of shorties into the weeds for generating bottom end torque.Shorties are geared for higher rpm power ,not torque.You want long primaries to generate torque.Headers work on the same basic principle as your variable length intake manifold,long intake runners create torque,while the shorter intake runners are for top end horespower,same thing applies to headers.
 

CanuckRam1313

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If you think you picked up torque with shorties,a set of long tubes would of blown your mind,as they blow a set of shorties into the weeds for generating bottom end torque.Shorties are geared for higher rpm power ,not torque.You want long primaries to generate torque.Headers work on the same basic principle as your variable length intake manifold,long intake runners create torque,while the shorter intake runners are for top end horespower,same thing applies to headers.
I don't disagree that there aren't massive tq gains with shorty's, but the installation is simpler in terms of being able to connect to the stock cats/system, but there is a definite gain in tq with them over the stock manifolds.

Perhaps I'm mistaken, and please correct me if so, but I believe I've read here that shorty's are geared more towards lower rpm gains (albeit not huge gains), whereas LT's produce gains in higher rpm's.
 

Wild one

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I don't disagree that there aren't massive tq gains with shorty's, but the installation is simpler in terms of being able to connect to the stock cats/system, but there is a definite gain in tq with them over the stock manifolds.

Perhaps I'm mistaken, and please correct me if so, but I believe I've read here that shorty's are geared more towards lower rpm gains (albeit not huge gains), whereas LT's produce gains in higher rpm's.
Yea that's a myth,long tubes are what you want for bottem end stump pulling torque. Long tubes do a better job of cylinder scavenging and help keep exhaust velocity up in the system.Little tidbit copied from Motor Trends dyno test.

"Length plays an equally important role in tuning the power curve, as does the diameter of the tubing. Long-tube designs (typically 30-plus-inches) create a strong exhaust-gas pulse signal throughout the pipe that enhances low- to mid-range torque and horsepower. On the other hand, as the tubes become shorter, the tuning effect has less time to enhance the engine's low-speed benefits. A short header tube will allow the low- to mid-range power to fall off while increasing the upper-end potential of the engine. Many companies offer headers in intermediate and short-tube lengths mainly for clearance reasons, but these same applications can be used to alter the power curve of the engine."
 

Wild one

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I don't disagree that there aren't massive tq gains with shorty's, but the installation is simpler in terms of being able to connect to the stock cats/system, but there is a definite gain in tq with them over the stock manifolds.

Perhaps I'm mistaken, and please correct me if so, but I believe I've read here that shorty's are geared more towards lower rpm gains (albeit not huge gains), whereas LT's produce gains in higher rpm's.
Take the 15 minutes or so to read this article as it's very informative.

 

CanuckRam1313

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Take the 15 minutes or so to read this article as it's very informative.

Thank you for this!
Very informative, and now I better understand.
One day I'd like the LT's on my baby. For now, I'll deal with no more leaks and a happier breathing HEMI :)
I appreciate your experience, knowledge, and tutelage.
 
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