NHTSA finally opens ABS/HCU investigation

And then there's my story when my engine cut out going into a tight curve in rush hour traffic. The MAP sensor failed. Thank goodness I was still a strong 20-something that could wrassle the steering without power avoiding hitting the tunnel wall and the bumper-to-bumper traffic.

Technology saves. Technology kills. Boeing 787 Max

My ABS/HCU failed at 45k miles. I’m on month 2 of supposed 4 months. My DEF injector needed replacement last week.

I had the ABS/EBS lights going on and off for a while. Found an HCU to replace and then it stopped. Hasn't happened in over a month. If someone needs it send me a PM and you can give me what I paid for it.

Update for mine: brought in for diagnostics and confirmed ABS HCU failure, same 3 fault codes as is standard issue.

Parts were over a month out and repair somewhere around $1200 estimate. RamCares was able to expedite the part and declined any financial coverage of the repair.

Filed a complaint with NHS and parked the truck. I'll be begrudgingly repairing it myself and then deciding whether or not I'll keep it. It is absolutely inexcusable that Ram have not figured this out and recalled it yet. It's an intermittent ground fault.

Choupique said:

I created an account just to chime in on this issue. It's about time a recall was a serious conversation.

I am currently in my 2nd ABS HCU failure in only 74k miles. This is inexcusable. Mine failed the 2nd time on a mountain in Colorado, in a snow storm, dragging a trailer. Fortunately I have experience driving a non-ABS vehicle so we managed to not crash, but this is a very serious safety issue with these trucks. It is not a reliable system.

This is also a costly repair at the dealer, and not a simple DIY job. Updated parts are not available. Parts of the existing faulty design are scarcely available.

@RamCares , I will be contacting my local dealer who sold me the truck tomorrow. I expect Ram to cover this recently out of warranty repair.

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I wonder IF: Did the "Technician" who replaced the ABS unit perform the "WHY" diagnosis of this failure? I mean, it's much easier to replace a part because it went bad, but the question remains... "WHY did the part fail?

I'll give you an example: A couple or three years ago, a customer had his pickup towed to my shop. His back story was "I stopped for some cigarettes and a Dr. Pepper, and it wouldn't start when I got back into my truck".

This was a supposed "all of the sudden, out of the blue" issue... you know, it was running just fine until______. Right?

He'd had it towed to his regular shop, due to the fact he is across town from me. (Houston, Tx.) And that constituted a 26 mile distance from me.

They had decorated the underhood with a few new shiny parts including a CKP and CMP sensors. Unable to fix the crank, no start problem, and running up the parts tab courtesy of the parts cannon theory of repair, said customer called his Dad for advice, and said Dad referred him to me.

Said truck arrived, and, sure enough, it would crank over til the cows come home, but not even try to start, SO, I started from scratch. I plugged in my scanner and observed crank RPM in PIDS. It showed nearly 2,000 RPM cranking! (It should be about 200 or so). The aftermarket "new" CKP (crankshaft position sensor) got my suspicions, and I installed a new OE part, and fixed the incorrect CKP reference to the computer. It still would not start, but it DID galvanize my ire with aftermarket parts.

In a nutshell, the computer was bad. I replaced it, and the truck started and ran good.... but "WHY" had the computer failed?

This is where using an automotive oscilloscope is crucial... I monitored secondary ignition waveforms, and VOILA!, there was WAY excessive KV demand on the ignition secondary on all cylinders... But WHY was that. Computers seldom just fail.

This high demand knocked out the coil drivers in the ECM. Turned out that the "other shop" had put in the incorrect heat range spark plugs, and THAT caused the computer failure down the line!

No, they don't. Repair literature states to replace the HCU, test drive, then replace the ABS module if faults persist.



I have a very good oscilloscope and some advanced data logging and monitoring equipment. I'll be sorting this out myself. I can't sell this to someone else in good faith as it is. Its damn aggravating at best and completely dangerous at worst.

Check for floating grounds. Perform a voltage drop test.

I've replaced the HCU twice and the ABS module three times. I've performed the initialization using AlfaOBD and the light will not go off. It has been like this over a year now.

Mountaineer83 said:

I've replaced the HCU twice and the ABS module three times. I've performed the initialization using AlfaOBD and the light will not go off. It has been like this over a year now.

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I had a guy referred to me a few years ago with a Mazda Millenia. He had been through the financial mill and was very frustrated because when he would drive the car on the freeway, after it got fully warmed up, the check engine light and O/D lights would come on. The O/D light would flash, the computer would inhibit overdrive AND unlock the torque converter as a default "Limp Home" measure to preserve the trans axle. It kept setting a DTC for the range switch circuit; that was his initial issue from the get go.
Two different transmission shops had rebuilt the unit to address this concern, to no avail. Another shop replaced the transmission range switch 4 times, and he was considering a 5th switch.

By the time he came to me, he was out north of 5 grand at that point. After fixing 3 high resistance grounds (caused by poor workmanship of the last rebuilder) after initial power and ground tests, I got into diagnosing the DTC.

Mazda was unique in that they used the range switch voltage as a monitored status for transmission operation. This circuit had 12 volts on it in Drive or Reverse (circuit high), and voltage dropped to a reference level in Park and Neutral (2.5V or circuit low).

This vehicle would slowly drop the 12 volt value being monitored by the ECM as the car was being driven as it got warmer and warmer.... until voltage dropped to just about reference level. The ECM would go into "Limp Home" mode, and Voila! Thus the problem.

It turned out that I discovered an aftermarket alarm system that had been wired into that circuit to inhibit starter operation as part of antitheft. The Alarm module had shorted out internally, and was the culprit. The solution was to bypass that part of the Alarm system. The customer opted to have me remove the alarm in it's entirety.

This, among many other experiences I've had and continue having is why it is critical in diagnosing to start at basics... power and ground integrity. Voltage drop across power and ground is an excellent place to begin.

It's sad from my perspective to witness people spending fortunes to have so-called "Technicians" make unnecessary and expensive repairs which turn out to be totally a waste of the customers' money.

My charges to that man was 300 dollars.... 6% of how much he had spent with other shops attempting to fix it.

My question is why have you needed to replace the ABS module 3 times? What underlying other issue is the root issue.
One possibility is a CAN/BUS issue somewhere. But there is something going on. Good luck! Peace!

That is my next step is to check wiring and grounds. I honestly haven't been able to devote the time to it that I need. But hopefully this spring I will be able yo diagnose it a little more. I was able yo return all but one of the pieces and I've replaced it myself each time, so I'm only out a couple of diagnostic fees so far.

It's just odd that there are so many Chrysler products with this issue. It's also all over the Charger and Jeep forums as well.

Mountaineer83 said:

It's just odd that there are so many Chrysler products with this issue. It's also all over the Charger and Jeep forums as well.

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This is subjective and based upon conclusion bias. Given that you quote a forum, that's like wondering why any group convenes whether cars, or any other thing talk so much about problems germane to their cause.

As I said in a reply, "How many FCA RAM trucks go to a quarter million miles with no other issues beyond oil changes, tires; the normal things?"
The answer is: We don't know, but I'd lay odds that there are way more trouble free units out there than the seeming lemons we read about on these forums.

This kind of issue isn't RAM exclusive. I have 2 Ford F150s that need new or repaired ABS modules. Apparently it is also common.

18CrewDually said:

This kind of issue isn't RAM exclusive. I have 2 Ford F150s that need new or repaired ABS modules. Apparently it is also common.

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Kelsey-Hayes

I've had my 2018 2500 parked for months due to this issue. I fire it up and drive (very carefully) around the country roads to get everything up to operating temp on occasion to hopefully prevent the batteries from dying and to keep everything lubed up. Mine went out when I went to accelerate and change lanes on the interstate while doing 70mph. Since it kills the ABS I ended up sideways and was thankfully able to get it back straight without crashing in to anyone or anything.

Really sucks. A medical issue prevents me from working so I'm on a fixed income and cannot afford to pay to have it fixed. I'm praying this will make it to recall status so I can use the truck when I need to. I have to take one of our horses to the vet Tuesday, hopefully we won't have icy roads.

It now looks like NHTSA has an information request out to FCA requesting a ton of information related to this ABS issue. You can view the PDF at the link below-


I would think a recall would be coming at some point given the high volume of failures....

wallacemf said:

It now looks like NHTSA has an information request out to FCA requesting a ton of information related to this ABS issue. You can view the PDF at the link below-

2018 RAM 2500 PU/CC 4WD | NHTSA

www.nhtsa.gov

I would think a recall would be coming at some point given the high volume of failures....

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and hopefully all of us that had to pay out of pocket for repairs will be reimbursed

dhay13 said:

and hopefully all of us that had to pay out of pocket for repairs will be reimbursed

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Yep that is what usually happens I believe. You'd probably just have to send in your receipt/invoice to get reimbursed.

wallacemf said:

Yep that is what usually happens I believe. You'd probably just have to send in your receipt/invoice to get reimbursed.

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They HAVE to reimburse you, BUT, it is incumbent upon YOU to pursue the payment... and quickly!

I should have the receipt for the part but had a buddies garage do the install so no receipt for that

dhay13 said:

I should have the receipt for the part but had a buddies garage do the install so no receipt for that

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Maybe so. BUT, they know the part wasn't/ isn't self installing! They should allot some labor reimbursement!