2012 Ram 1500 Hemi Oil In Coolant I Am At A Loss.

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jws123

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I am working on a 2012 ram 5.7 overheated had oil in coolant like ALOT tons of it was packed but no coolant In oil. So I tore it down sent heads off to get checked/re surfaced he said they where warped throw it all back together flush the living hell out of the system new hoses new rad ect. Let it run hits 210f It boils over still getting oil in coolant residual? I dont know I flushed it so many dam times just keeps boiling over and spewing coolant/oil all over at operating temp. What I dont get is where could it be mixing oil with coolant but not coolant with oil... And overheating I am open to all suggestions at a loss here hate to condem the motor since it runs so good.


What has been done
-----------------------------------
Heads re surfaced
New gaskes
New tstat Twice! its for sure good.
Flushed it 10 times burped system.
Compression is great runs good dont smell any coolant out tailpipe.
 

EdGs

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Could've sworn I read somewhere that there was a problem with water pumps where the impellers were not spinning as they should???

Plastic vs. metal impellers???

Is it using oil? Leftover residue maybe?

I would let it sit for a day, then crack the oil drain plug loose so that it drips and see if coolant comes out. If there's coolant in the crankcase, it should make itself known very quick.

Possible crack in the head? Or block?

Or if theres oil coòler in the radiator, mixing there?
 
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jws123

jws123

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X2 on cracked block cylinder wall.
Wouldnt i show a compression loss? i dont remember seeing any when cleaning up cylinders anything is possible tho i will pressurize all cylinders see if any leak into coolant system
 
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jws123

jws123

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Could've sworn I read somewhere that there was a problem with water pumps where the impellers were not spinning as they should???

Plastic vs. metal impellers???

Is it using oil? Leftover residue maybe?

I would let it sit for a day, then crack the oil drain plug loose so that it drips and see if coolant comes out. If there's coolant in the crankcase, it should make itself known very quick.

Possible crack in the head? Or block?

Or if theres oil coòler in the radiator, mixing there?
Nothing in the oil pan no coolant.
To early to tell if using oil so far I dont think so not drivable since it overheats.
No cooler on this year truck.
Water pump looked good but going to remove it again make sure nothings slipping.
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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Wouldnt i show a compression loss? i dont remember seeing any when cleaning up cylinders anything is possible tho i will pressurize all cylinders see if any leak into coolant system if oil is getting into the cooling system.
Do a leak down test it will test the cylinders and it may pressurize the cooling system if there is a crack in one of the cylinders.
 

Wild one

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Wouldnt i show a compression loss? i dont remember seeing any when cleaning up cylinders anything is possible tho i will pressurize all cylinders see if any leak into coolant system
Cracked cylinder could be hard to see,especially if you're not looking for it,and probably won't show up on a compression test if the rings are still sealing.It's only a guess on my part though.
 

doc 11 ACR

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X3 on the cracked block. Your problem only happens when the thermostat opens at op temp.
 

MRFREEZE57

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Years ago my brother had a 62 Chevy Nova that found oil in radiator, the block had a hairline crack in an oil pressure gallery and was forcing oil into the coolant. Dad found it by stripping the block, blocking the water passages and filling the block with gasoline and found the spot where was seeping into a lifter gallery.
 

pacofortacos

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Oil pressure is generally significantly higher than coolant pressure, so if you have a small crack it is possible to get oil in the coolant but not coolant in the oil - at least not a bunch of coolant.

They do have ways to test for combustion gases in the coolant - this will tell you if you have a crack/leak in any of the combustion areas (head gasket, cylinder wall, etc). If there isn't any combustion gases then the leak is most likely in an area that the oil and coolant are close to each other (oil galley/block area, maybe some gasket area) ( I haven't been through a hemi block to know all of the passages.

Read this - the combustion gases part is at the end.
or try what scotty shows
 
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jws123

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Cracked cylinder is starting to sound likely I guess tomorrow I will do some more testing check water pump pressurize a few things if all fails guess I am tearing engine out I have a spare block but didnt really feel like building a motor right now lol..
 
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jws123

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Well after hours of screwing with it confirming everything is 100% right still boils at 215f fine up until then Sooo guess motors shot.
 
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jws123

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Found a motor its a 2019 Just want to double check besides sensors ect any reason why this wouldnt fit? did anything change on the hemi on newer ones? it looks the same to me.
 
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jws123

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Old motor is out Il tear it down eventually looking for a crack it dove me crazy so I wanna know haha. The one I picked up looks spotless cant have many miles on it at all the only thing wrong with it was a broken valve spring... paid $200 for it was a 'core' to them. Blows my mind someone would change a $4000 motor just because of a spring lol motor has no other damage.
 

CaptCurt

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I am working on a 2012 ram 5.7 overheated had oil in coolant like ALOT tons of it was packed but no coolant In oil. So I tore it down sent heads off to get checked/re surfaced he said they where warped throw it all back together flush the living hell out of the system new hoses new rad ect. Let it run hits 210f It boils over still getting oil in coolant residual? I dont know I flushed it so many dam times just keeps boiling over and spewing coolant/oil all over at operating temp. What I dont get is where could it be mixing oil with coolant but not coolant with oil... And overheating I am open to all suggestions at a loss here hate to condem the motor since it runs so good.


What has been done
-----------------------------------
Heads re surfaced
New gaskes
New tstat Twice! its for sure good.
Flushed it 10 times burped system.
Compression is great runs good dont smell any coolant out tailpipe.
The oil mixing w/the coolant, and not Visa-versa, could be that you have 35-60lbs psi of oil pressure vs 12-18lbs psi of coolant pressure. Just a thought.
 

Sur5er

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Most shops have a CO (Carbon Monoxide) tester just for that purpose. OTOH, if your radiator pressurizes in just a minute or two, go with warped/cracked block/heads!
 

blackbetty14

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Now that you have it out... pull the spark plugs and pressurize the cooling system (air compressor to the pump and block off Tstat with coolant in the engine). Crank up the pressure 20lbs and then hand rotate the engine over a few cycles after giving it 30s after applying pressure. I wonder if you will get coolant pushed out of the spark plug hole on the offending cylinder. Then you can pull the head and inspect to help narrow it down. If you have those cheap 5mm snake cameras off amazon you can put that in and look in the cylinders with the heads on after pressurizing.

To hook up to the water pump get some rubber couplers/reducers from home depot and a steel or brass reducer to 1/4" NPT, then screw in a air compressor quick disconnect. Hook up a compressor and adjust the regulator to your comfortable pressure. You will need coolant in the motor (full) for this to work though. Might work :shrug:
 

Dave rittco

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Nothing in the oil pan no coolant.

To early to tell if using oil so far I dont think so not drivable since it overheats.

No cooler on this year truck.

Water pump looked good but going to remove it again make sure nothings slipping.
 
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