Need jumper cable recommendations

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Truck Fun

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What brands would you recommend for a new set of jumper cables? Criteria; Heavy duty, 16-20ft, Definitely metal clamps, Willing to pay for quality.
The old set my dad had for years was ok but one of the plastic clamp handles broke. Plus those clamps didn't open very wide and are hard to secure in some cases on newer trucks. Thanks.
 
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Truck Fun

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So what amperage model jump box would you suggest if I go that route?
 

Daniel Ortiz

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@Truck Fun , I just keep a set of generic jumper cables in my tool box. I have no idea what their rating is for. I should probably go figure that out.

On a related topic, has anyone tried these Autowit Supercapacitor Starters on a Hemi? I'm intrigued. They're much preferable to a jump box that needs to be kept charged to be useful, but I'm sure they have other drawbacks (although I can't think of any).
 

ThunderMug95

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@Truck Fun , I just keep a set of generic jumper cables in my tool box. I have no idea what their rating is for. I should probably go figure that out.

On a related topic, has anyone tried these Autowit Supercapacitor Starters on a Hemi? I'm intrigued. They're much preferable to a jump box that needs to be kept charged to be useful, but I'm sure they have other drawbacks (although I can't think of any).
The Autowit sounds like witchcraft!
I dont trust websites that have incorrect syntax and sound like Amazon ads.
 

danielmid

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So what amperage model jump box would you suggest if I go that route?
I did the Noco GBX75 for wiggle room for larger engine sizes, but if you're only worried about the 5.7 and smaller then a smaller jump box would work fine.
 

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Dean2

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I made mine from Welding Cable and I made them long enough to reach to the front of a pickup when parking behind it. The clamps are easy to find. The welding cable stays very flexible even at -40, and carry juice over distance no problem.
 
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GTyankee

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I always wanted to run a setup that runs from my trucks battery, then down to the frame & all the way back to the rear bumper.
At that point it would end in female connection.

Then if i needed to jump some one, i could back up to them & have a short set of cables with clamps & male connectors, that would plug into the bumpers female plugs

602530-001-2.jpg
All of our field mechanics vans were set up like that

I have not done enough rescues lately to justify doing it
Now i just use a Schumacher jump pack
 

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WY-Dave

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I always wanted to run a setup that runs from my trucks battery, then down to the frame & all the way back to the rear bumper.
At that point it would end in female connection.

Then if i needed to jump some one, i could back up to them & have a short set of cables with clamps & male connectors, that would plug into the bumpers female plugs

View attachment 512829
All of our field mechanics vans were set up like that

I have not done enough rescues lately to justify doing it
Now i just use a Schumacher jump pack
Had that setup on the jeep. Also supplied power to the winch in a hitch receiver cradle
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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I wouldn't use jumper cables, they can throw a spike into your trucks electrical systems with all of the electronics these trucks have, folks have had problems after jump starting someone, stay with the jump boxes, that way you're not doing any damage to your truck!!!
 

Dean2

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I wouldn't use jumper cables, they can throw a spike into your trucks electrical systems with all of the electronics these trucks have, folks have had problems after jump starting someone, stay with the jump boxes, that way you're not doing any damage to your truck!!!
There is zero difference between using a jumper box and using a 12 volt battery. Hooking up the battery in the jump vehicle in the correct order with the vehicle not running and hooking up a 12v jumper is exactly the same thing. The only advantage to to some jump boxes is they are polarity controlled and won't feed juice if hooked up backwards.
Here's the correct order for your jumper cables:
  1. RED to DEAD: Connect the red clip to the positive terminal on your dead battery.
  2. RED to DONOR: Connect the red clip to the positive terminal on the donor vehicle's working battery.
  3. BLACK to DONOR: Same car! ...
  4. BLACK to METAL: Back to the dead battery.
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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There is zero difference between using a jumper box and using a 12 volt battery. Hooking up the battery in the jump vehicle in the correct order with the vehicle not running and hooking up a 12v jumper is exactly the same thing. The only advantage to to some jump boxes is they are polarity controlled and won't feed juice if hooked up backwards.
I differ from your logic, in all of my experience i have had problems in the past, even hooking up the jumper cables the right way (polarity) wise, I have shorted voltage regulators, ignition modules and even a ECM one time, why can't you take my opinion and value it and not try to take over the post, a little more respect here!!!
 

Dean2

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I differ from your logic, in all of my experience i have had problems in the past, even hooking up the jumper cables the right way (polarity) wise, I have shorted voltage regulators, ignition modules and even a ECM one time, why can't you take my opinion and value it and not try to take over the post, a little more respect here!!!
Sorry, no disrespect meant, and I have already posted on the thread before you did so I don't get the taking over comment.

If you have messed up as much gear as you say you have then yes, you should definitely stick to a polarity protected jump box. Hooking stuff up wrong can very easily cause issues but that has nothing to do with using another vehicle. Personally I have no trouble remembering positive patient to positive and negative donor to ground but to each their own.
 
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GTyankee

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OK, i am going to jump in here

Using a Jump Box usually gets the dead vehicle going & there is NO chance that you can harm the running vehicle doing it that way.

Another thing,

The procedure for using jumper cables to jump another vehicle mentioned above:

  1. RED to DEAD: Connect the red clip to the positive terminal on your dead battery.
  2. RED to DONOR: Connect the red clip to the positive terminal on the donor vehicle's working battery.
  3. BLACK to DONOR: Same car! ...
  4. BLACK to METAL: Back to the dead battery.
was the preferred method, before vehicles became computerized

The change that was made after vehicles were equipped with computers, was step #4

the Jumper Cable going to the running vehicles Negative connection should go to the running engines FRAME, ( not the battery )

Personally, i don't care to put my face over my battery, when i am jumping someone & that would be where your face is while connecting to the frame.

A neat trick, is if your Radiator Support is hard mounted & made of metal

Drill a hole near the top of the Radiator Support, fairly close to your vehicles Battery. Then insert a bolt & a nut, maybe 9/16ths" through that hole & on the front side side of the radiator support, thread on another nut.
Next tighten the 2 nuts solidly together.

Now the 4th step would to clamp your Negative Cable to the new Bolt.
You are protecting your own body, because your face is not over your good battery.

I know that some people may disagree with this method, i think that it is a very safe option.

Have a Good Day !!
 
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