"UPDATE 1 and 2 Oh No it happened

JHoward · Feb 5, 2023

Rado said:
2015 RAM 1500 4x4
91k on the clock Pentastar V6

-16*f out Windchill -26*+f with the wind
It was colder yesterday no problem !
Started fine like yesterday
Let warmed up for bit like I normally do
Take off fine get a couple mile down the road

I found these symbols on Google so I may be way off lol

Dodge Ram Truck Dashboard Lights And Meaning - warningsigns.net

Dodge Ram Truck is one of the most styled designed pickup trucks among other such pickup trucks. It is the foundation of FCA US LLC Group that comes with many

warningsigns.net

A RED lighting bolt shows up on the dash ! Electronic Throttle Control
if I am right Turned around and went back home b4 I make the driveway drops to Limp Mode
Also had and still have the Electronic Stability Control on
The RED lighting bolt light went off ! Having it towed in Tuesday to the :O dealer
Check engine light still on

Could this have been caused by the Sub Zero Temperatures ???

I know weird things happen sometimes with Sub zero Temps And another weird thing is 3 of my House door Knobs were forzen and would not turn and open :O
Had car and truck door froxe shut but never my door knobs lol

My 2017 HEMI truck, with the original battery, is parked inside a garage most of the time with an batteryMINDer Plus® plugged in on the cooler months and occasionally during the summer months. No issues so far ... well, maybe now that I said something about it, my battery might crap out ...

Jeepwalker · Feb 5, 2023

Well now you're (OP) in the NE ...if it's not your battery, quadruple-check the battery connections. Loosen, wiggle and reseat your engine and battery-to-body & engine-to-body ground straps too. I'd move (reseat) all the fuses.

Then I'd take a flashlight and check the major ground location in front of and above the F driver's tire. There's a little plastic door there I believe. Mine was rusty as all get-out. A mechanic might even need to hit that hold-down bolt with a small torch flame to loosen it ...if it's THAT rusty. And you might wiggle your TIPM connectors too.

In fact, if the problem persists after all the easy stuff has been checked (per above), remove and check the TIPM connector pins. There've been a couple guys who've had very corroded pins on the TIPM (computer) connectors. Like almost completely corroded away! All of the above could be a factor. But you're doing the right thing to start with the battery...

Best of luck. Let us know if you find anything.

Wild one · Feb 5, 2023

Scottly said:
If the intercooler iced up, this will happen. Just curious, but what was the relative humidity?

I don't think the 3.6 V6's have an intercooler

Rado · Feb 5, 2023

Scottly said:
If the intercooler iced up, this will happen. Just curious, but what was the relative humidi

But I have a Pentastar V6 Gas not a Diesel !! I do not have a Inter cooler
Thanks

indept · Feb 5, 2023

JHoward said:
No issues so far ... well, maybe now that I said something about it, my battery might crap out ...

Guaranteed to fail now.

Scottly · Feb 6, 2023

Wild one said:
I don't think the 3.6 V6's have an intercooler

Well, chalk one up in the stupid column for me...Pass me that beer :cheers:

blackbetty14 · Feb 6, 2023

I had something similar happen to me. But it was my fault. I did a filter swap (vararam) and forgot to pull the paper towel out covering the TB (its a short 4" x8" of silicone straight down to the TB) and it sucked the paper towel in which got caught in the TB. I got about 5 miles or so before the truck lights went nuts and put itself into limp mode I believe. I figure it out after limping it home and found the shredded paper towel. Pulled it out and it was fine ever since (that was my 14 express with the 5.7).

Battery load tester is good (one provided previously) but this one is even better. It tests the battery and provides you an actual cranking amps/internal resistance, health rating of the battery and even tests the alternator charging voltage and ripple current. Tool is pretty awesome and has diagnosed a few issues with family member cars. I only wish it did Lithium batteries for like powersports etc. BTW its usually around $30-45.

Tulet · Feb 6, 2023

If your truck doesn't detect the Throttle control fault for 3 consecutive starts, the check engine light will turn off. I get it when there is excessive rain. I pull over, shut off the engine wait 5 seconds and restart. That clears the Throttle Control fault, but the check engine stays on for the 3 start rotations.

Curmudgeon · Feb 6, 2023

blackbetty14 said:
I had something similar happen to me. But it was my fault. I did a filter swap (vararam) and forgot to pull the paper towel out covering the TB (its a short 4" x8" of silicone straight down to the TB) and it sucked the paper towel in which got caught in the TB. I got about 5 miles or so before the truck lights went nuts and put itself into limp mode I believe. I figure it out after limping it home and found the shredded paper towel. Pulled it out and it was fine ever since (that was my 14 express with the 5.7).

Battery load tester is good (one provided previously) but this one is even better. It tests the battery and provides you an actual cranking amps/internal resistance, health rating of the battery and even tests the alternator charging voltage and ripple current. Tool is pretty awesome and has diagnosed a few issues with family member cars. I only wish it did Lithium batteries for like powersports etc. BTW its usually around $30-45.

View attachment 513105

EDITED to delete link!

blackbetty14 · Feb 6, 2023

Curmudgeon said:
https://www.amazon.com/TT-TOPDON-AB101-Automotive-System%EF%BC%8CCharging/dp/B07DDDDSK9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=WLJALAJT34G7&keywords=topdon+battery+tester&qid=1675698366&sprefix=topdon%2Caps%2C304&sr=8-3

I don't like to provide links to products not sold by our vendors. Figured that is frowned upon!

Willmsy · Feb 6, 2023

This happened to me last year. Your electric throttle got frozen in a mostly closed position. It happens in cold temperature when you make quick trips where the engine doesn't heat up enough (that is what I was told).

IT is an easy fix, you have to remove the RESONATOR-AIR CLEANER to get at the throttle control.

The condensation builds up in a pool that freezes to the throttle control, keeping in locked down and you get the symptoms with the warning lights.

After I cleared it out and put everything back together it worked like a champ again.

RamDiver · Feb 6, 2023

Wild one said:
I was only helping you out,as you didn't seem to know what Huntergreen was referring to with the forgotton "y" on batter. Buy yourself and old school toaster style battery tester and test the battery anyways. One of these won't break the bank,and you'll probably use it more then you think.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I like all these new fancy digital battery analyzers but...

Many of them are known to wrongly pronounce a battery as good when it is anything but good. I've witnessed many times where a buddy says he had his battery tested with a fancy machine and it said OK yet the first good cold snap and it fails.

I have an old toaster-like tester like the above. It is 100% accurate and NEVER makes an error. A simple resistive load will tell you more about the battery's ability to start when the temperatures dip than a fancy machine that may display endless technical characteristics.

A resistive test is pure and has no difference based on the reactive properties of the battery. The digital testers use different methods to derive their results and unless you drop a pile of coin on a Cadex, it's tough to say if you can consistently trust the good/bad determination.

I like to use the kiss principle for quick & cheap battery analysis.
YMMV

Some reading points;

https://www.velabattery.com/which-b...gue-battery-tester-vs-digital-battery-tester/

https://batteryuniversity.com/article/why-do-different-test-methods-provide-dissimilar-readings
.

Rado · Feb 6, 2023

Scottly said:
Well, chalk one up in the stupid column for me...Pass me that beer

I'll pass you a 6 pack lol ! You did make me think and that is a hard thing for me to do lol FYI my Stupid Things I did book is about 6" thick and growing lol

Rado · Feb 6, 2023

Tulet said:
If your truck doesn't detect the Throttle control fault for 3 consecutive starts, the check engine light will turn off. I get it when there is excessive rain. I pull over, shut off the engine wait 5 seconds and restart. That clears the Throttle Control fault, but the check engine stays on for the 3 start rotations.

The light codes that appeared were

Electronic Throttle Control The lighting bolt light !

Eletronic Stability Control kight Both On and Off

Went into Limp Mode I put a ****** Pill in the gas tank and it went away after restart

SO playing it safe and getting it towed to Dealer Vs my Regular guy

Rado · Feb 6, 2023

Willmsy said:
This happened to me last year. Your electric throttle got frozen in a mostly closed position. It happens in cold temperature when you make quick trips where the engine doesn't heat up enough (that is what I was told).

IT is an easy fix, you have to remove the RESONATOR-AIR CLEANER to get at the throttle control.

The condensation builds up in a pool that freezes to the throttle control, keeping in locked down and you get the symptoms with the warning lights.

After I cleared it out and put everything back together it worked like a champ again.

Thanks Well it warmed up from -16 and now high 30s Moved truck for a easy hook up for tow truck , again started right up no light other the check engine light ! But still going to get towed in just to be safe !
I was also thing something froze up so will see!
FYI I do not have a garage and after working outside for 45+ years I am done freezing my rear end off lol So off it goes lol

Willmsy · Feb 6, 2023

Rado said:
Thanks Well it warmed up from -16 and now high 30s Moved truck for a easy hook up for tow truck , again started right up no light other the check engine light ! But still going to get towed in just to be safe !
I was also thing something froze up so will see!
FYI I do not have a garage and after working outside for 45+ years I am done freezing my rear end off lol So off it goes lol

I'll bet they won't find anything since it has thawed out. To expand on the "quick trips where the engine doesn't heat up enough", the engine doesn't heat up enough to evaporate the condensation that is building up. Those pictures show how much I had frozen. It didn't take much to stop that electronic throttle from opening up and causing all that mess.

Wild one · Feb 6, 2023

blackbetty14 said:
I had something similar happen to me. But it was my fault. I did a filter swap (vararam) and forgot to pull the paper towel out covering the TB (its a short 4" x8" of silicone straight down to the TB) and it sucked the paper towel in which got caught in the TB. I got about 5 miles or so before the truck lights went nuts and put itself into limp mode I believe. I figure it out after limping it home and found the shredded paper towel. Pulled it out and it was fine ever since (that was my 14 express with the 5.7).

Battery load tester is good (one provided previously) but this one is even better. It tests the battery and provides you an actual cranking amps/internal resistance, health rating of the battery and even tests the alternator charging voltage and ripple current. Tool is pretty awesome and has diagnosed a few issues with family member cars. I only wish it did Lithium batteries for like powersports etc. BTW its usually around $30-45.

View attachment 513105

I'm not a fan of the newer digital battery testers,i prefer the old school toaster variety.I fought my local GM dealer on a battery on a brand new vehicle a few years ago.They claimed there was nothing wrong with the battery when they tested it,i went through that with them for about a week,until i took my old toaster tester over,and we did a back to back test on the battery at their shop doors,and their fancy high dollar digital tester showed the battery good,but as soon as i hooked up my old toaster tester,the battery was junk,the shop manager then told me,he wasn't a fan of the dealers tester and still preferred the old style testers,anyways long story short,they replaced the battery under warrenty after it wouldn't pass my test done right in front of the shop manager and service writer.

Wild one · Feb 6, 2023

RamDiver said:
I like all these new fancy digital battery analyzers but...

Many of them are known to wrongly pronounce a battery as good when it is anything but good. I've witnessed many times where a buddy says he had his battery tested with a fancy machine and it said OK yet the first good cold snap and it fails.

I have an old toaster-like tester like the above. It is 100% accurate and NEVER makes an error. A simple resistive load will tell you more about the battery's ability to start when the temperatures dip than a fancy machine that may display endless technical characteristics.

A resistive test is pure and has no difference based on the reactive properties of the battery. The digital testers use different methods to derive their results and unless you drop a pile of coin on a Cadex, it's tough to say if you can consistently trust the good/bad determination.

I like to use the kiss principle for quick & cheap battery analysis.
YMMV

Some reading points;

https://www.velabattery.com/which-b...gue-battery-tester-vs-digital-battery-tester/

https://batteryuniversity.com/article/why-do-different-test-methods-provide-dissimilar-readings
.

The second article sounds like a commercial for Cadex,lol.Not saying they aren't good,but they're way more then the average guy can afford or needs,and as alot of dealers are proving these days,they aren't as good at identifying a bad battery while the old toaster style tester will catch it.Good reads though,but i still prefer my old school load tester.

RamDiver · Feb 6, 2023

Wild one said:
The second article sounds like a commercial for Cadex,lol.Not saying they aren't good,but they're way more then the average guy can afford or needs,and as alot of dealers are proving these days,they aren't as good at identifying a bad battery while the old toaster style tester will catch it.Good reads though,but i still prefer my old school load tester.

Me too, can't beat the toaster.

I bought mine for $20 at Princess Auto ages ago and because it's such a simple device, it works as well as the day I bought it.

OK, maybe I did have to rebuild one of the clamps but what do you want for $20 and over 20 years old?

I know that nobody will ever buy a Cadex tester and yes, battery university does sound like they sell them, I agree. The Cadex tester suffers from the same issue as any digital tester and often fails to be accurate.

The main purpose for my posting that link was to demonstrate the complexity and lack of standard methodology used by digital testers. Yes, it's a dry read and easy to skim or skip entirely but it did explain two or more distinctly different test methods that scientifically are questionable, at the least.

It's like modeling environmental outcomes and then making policy based on those models when in reality, the modeling process is very flawed and doesn't make accurate predictions.

.

Rado · Feb 6, 2023

Willmsy said:
I'll bet they won't find anything since it has thawed out. To expand on the "quick trips where the engine doesn't heat up enough", the engine doesn't heat up enough to evaporate the condensation that is building up. Those pictures show how much I had frozen. It didn't take much to stop that electronic throttle from opening up and causing all that mess.

Yea I was shocked as well, 37* right now Moved truck all ran fine no light other the check engine light so will see. I may know more on Wednesday and will Update

"UPDATE 1 and 2 Oh No it happened

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