Reducing Combustion chamber/piston top Carbon build up

Daniel Ortiz said:

I'd like to use some of this stuff on my wife's car we just bought her, a used 2021 Toyota Highlander with 42k miles on the clock. That's a lot of miles for only 1.5 years, so I suspect (hope) they did a lot of highway driving, but I also bet they went by the 10k mile OCIs, so I thought I'd give this a try. That model has GDI + PI, so it shouldn't be too bad, but I figure a little early owner loving could do no harm.

Looks like it's best to run it through a full (?) tank of gasoline, right before an oil change? Is going 3 tanks in a row before oil change for the really bad cases? Thanks for any input you guys.

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Just like it says on the SL-1 bottle run your tank near empty then put in. Fill up tank but max 20 gallons. for my 3 fill ups each time I went till the gas light came on. Put in bottle then filled tank to 3/4 that way was putting just less than 20 gallons in. I did that then changed oil. My reman motor has about 150k miles on it so figured was time for a cleaning. Assuming it was not done with previous owner. No doubt there is a good difference.

Elo76 said:

Hi guys. I'm the one that Wild one is helping here. Thanks again!

I already have a bottle of SL-1 in my possession and just found some Mopar Combustion Chamber here locally at my dealership. Seems to be out of stock everywhere online.

Any tips for application? Do I just warm it up, then let it idle and just spray enough to load up and keep it from stalling until the can is gone? Then close hood and let it sit for 2-3 hours?

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Just follow the directions, I use it on a hot engine and pretty much do it like that, though sometimes you have to go above idle slightly (at least on a 4 cylinder) to keep from stalling. Then let it sit for however long the can says, then take it out and drive it gently for a couple of miles and then I usually finish with an Italian tune - ie. run in a lower gear to keep the rpms at 2500-3000 rpms for a couple of miles - it gets the valves nice and hot and generally cleans the plugs up so I don't have to replace them.
Combining the combustion chamber cleaner with the Redline in the gas should clean it up pretty quickly I would think.
I would probably do it just before an oil change.

Any sludge anywhere else? For gentle cleaning of the oiling part of the motor, I usually just replace 1 quart of oil with 1 quart of Rislone for a few oil changes - generally change at 3000 miles or so when cleaning.

Not a fan of fast cleaning of the internal engine/pan/valve covers/etc., I have seen too much crap get into the oil pan too quickly and plug the oil pickup screen. Slow cleaning usually is gentle enough that everything is kept suspended in the oil.

Right or wrong this is how I have done it for years.

Daniel Ortiz said:

I'd like to use some of this stuff on my wife's car we just bought her, a used 2021 Toyota Highlander with 42k miles on the clock. That's a lot of miles for only 1.5 years, so I suspect (hope) they did a lot of highway driving, but I also bet they went by the 10k mile OCIs, so I thought I'd give this a try. That model has GDI + PI, so it shouldn't be too bad, but I figure a little early owner loving could do no harm.

Looks like it's best to run it through a full (?) tank of gasoline, right before an oil change? Is going 3 tanks in a row before oil change for the really bad cases? Thanks for any input you guys.

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As long as the extra injector feeds all cylinders then it should help clean the valves.

I use it once a year just as a preventative measure on my normal injected vehicles.
Easier to keep clean and do touchup vs. cleaning.

Doesn't do anything on the wife's DI since it is a pure DI and no fuel hits the valves.

I was able to get some cans of the Mopar stuff locally. How do I control the throttle from under the hood? Just move the plate by hand since it's electronic or do I need a helper working the gas for this?

Also...is everyone following the directions on the bottle or doing some modified procedure like danielmid posted below like spraying additional in the cylinders after the first can?


OR this one?

Burla said:

It was Corey aka hemi395 who boroscped his engine but the thread is over at BITOG, lol. Look up redline si-1 boroscoped. There was at the time 3 different boroscoped piston tops and all 3 showed impressive slow cleaning. We were gonna go a thing still might at some point, I even recently bought a boro. by the third time the engine was like new, and this thing was toast. Of note for whatever reason, chris fix did not get these results with many different cleaners including techron. He tried many PEA additives, I asked him to consider trying redline, he moved on. But this was one of the three guys and that post was nefore this video, this is the follow up. Results are undeniable, I guess it shouldnt surprise us this brand is the best but for sure there is one or two million bitogers that skin boils when they hear that, lmao??

Car Hack - How To Clean Your Combustion Chamber Completely (Redline's Complete Fuel System Cleaner)

This is the final dosage of Redline's Complete Fuel System Cleaner on my Toyota Celica GTS. I will no longer be running this product as my cylinders are com...

youtu.be

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I'm shocked BITOG hates Red Line! SHOCKED! I tell you.

Elo76 said:

I was able to get some cans of the Mopar stuff locally. How do I control the throttle from under the hood? Just move the plate by hand since it's electronic or do I need a helper working the gas for this?

Also...is everyone following the directions on the bottle or doing some modified procedure like danielmid posted below like spraying additional in the cylinders after the first can?

Mopar Combustion Chamber cleaner

www.jeepforum.com

OR this one?

MOPAR Combustion Chamber Cleaner...nice!

www.lxforums.com

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I would follow the second one or what is on the can.

With a v8 or 6 as long as you don't spray super fast it should idle.

I wouldn't worry about shooting for perfectly clean on the first can. Reason is - IF you have heavily carboned valves, you don't want big chunks falling and getting stuck on the valve seat.
I have seen carbon so bad on the back side of valves that it almost plugged the entire valve window.

What is the reason you are doing this?

You are actually not far from where I am.

Wild one said:

Somebody found a product that was good at reducing piston and combustion chamber build up,i think it might have been Hemi395,but i can't find his post about what he was using,can anybody help out.
Rick

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Run three bottles of Techron through it and drive it hard. 1.5 bottles per tank. get the larger bottles. Project Farm rated it in the top two as I recall.

Elo76 said:

Hi guys. I'm the one that Wild one is helping here. Thanks again!

I already have a bottle of SL-1 in my possession and just found some Mopar Combustion Chamber here locally at my dealership. Seems to be out of stock everywhere online.

Any tips for application? Do I just warm it up, then let it idle and just spray enough to load up and keep it from stalling until the can is gone? Then close hood and let it sit for 2-3 hours?

Click to expand...

stop using cheap gas. Use only "Top Tier gas"
search "TOP TIER Gasoline Retailers"

Using the MOPAR combustion chamber cleaner and the Redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner in tandem or singularly, how badly does it foul up the spark plugs (if any)?

I would like to do this to my 5.7, but recently just changed the plugs, and don't want to foul them up.

2Tallguy said:

Run three bottles of Techron through it and drive it hard. 1.5 bottles per tank. get the larger bottles. Project Farm rated it in the top two as I recall.

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Techron no longer contains PEA according to their labeling and SDS. Project Farm is likely out of date.

I fear Chevron latest ownership went on a cost reduction rage. I haven't seen any documentation that any other additive dissolves deposits better than PEA. Only Red Line additive has documented PEA that I've seen lately.

Very disappointing, a symptom of modern times - money is the only thing that matters any longer. Same with Top Tier gasoline. Most retailers have discontinued in my region.

Daniel Ortiz said:

I'd like to use some of this stuff on my wife's car we just bought her, a used 2021 Toyota Highlander with 42k miles on the clock. That's a lot of miles for only 1.5 years, so I suspect (hope) they did a lot of highway driving, but I also bet they went by the 10k mile OCIs, so I thought I'd give this a try. That model has GDI + PI, so it shouldn't be too bad, but I figure a little early owner loving could do no harm.

Looks like it's best to run it through a full (?) tank of gasoline, right before an oil change? Is going 3 tanks in a row before oil change for the really bad cases? Thanks for any input you guys.

Click to expand...

Just pour in bottle of B12 Chemtool. ~$3.50 bottle.

For fuel system and deposit cleaning I just add can of B12 Chemtool and in 5-10 miles vehicle runs like a top. Do not use on diesel engine, gas only. Diesel use seafoam,

What we have to prove combustion chamber cleaning are boroscopes, everything else is just talk. Here is techron btw, for those interested. There is a reason why I have my attention towards redline si-1 and it isnt brand, it's the boro. Two proven cleaners with youtube boro's, redline si-1 and sea foam through vac lines. Anything else, I say prove it like these two products did. No guessing, they simply work.

mgturbo1 said:

stop using cheap gas. Use only "Top Tier gas"
search "TOP TIER Gasoline Retailers"

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I can testify to this. I was experiencing a sometimes lumpy idle using DeltaSonic less expensive fuel. I ran three tanks of the Mobil Super with 2x detergents and it cleared up soon after.

I've been running Sunoco 87 now for well over a year and the engine is as smooth as silk.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 84808 miles

Imma have to move to a bigger city, I guess.

HEMIMANN said:

Imma have to move to a bigger city, I guess.

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id rather die personally.

Burla said:

id rather die personally.

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I was forced into Chicago for training for 6 months. I damn near died.

CanuckRam1313 said:

Using the MOPAR combustion chamber cleaner and the Redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner in tandem or singularly, how badly does it foul up the spark plugs (if any)?

I would like to do this to my 5.7, but recently just changed the plugs, and don't want to foul them up.

Click to expand...

Use the Redline after doing the combustion chamber cleaner.

Just take it for a good several mile drive at the end of the combustion cleaner process, try to drive it lower gear (steady state highway is fine) to where your rpms are around 3000 rpms or so for a couple of miles. Then a couple of good hard blasts from a stop through several gears and you should be good. Add the Redline and fill the tank
and Enjoy.

GumOut claims to be using PEA, Per their website:

REGANE COMPLETE FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER​

Even high-quality fuel can leave behind carbon deposits and corrosion from ethanol and water. Gumout® Regane® Complete Fuel System Cleaner conditions fuel against corrosion to help extend the life of key engine parts, while using P.E.A. (polyetheramine) to
effectively remove deposits other products can’t, for maximized performance and fuel economy.

• Maximizes Fuel Economy
• Improves Horsepower
• Cleans Entire Fuel System