Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 235 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 399 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 993 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 661 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,775

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knightjp

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@Travis8352 What are your thoughts on using HPL SAE 15W40?
To resolve a slight tick, the mechanic is suggesting that I use a thicker oil. So I'm thinking this would be a good fit.
HPL15W40.JPG
Or
Should I use SAE 5w50 instead.
HPL5W50.JPG

The idea is to use this and then move over to HPL SAE 5w30 / 5w40 after about 5000kms
 

Travis8352

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@Travis8352 What are your thoughts on using HPL SAE 15W40?
To resolve a slight tick, the mechanic is suggesting that I use a thicker oil. So I'm thinking this would be a good fit.
View attachment 513763
Or
Should I use SAE 5w50 instead.
View attachment 513764

The idea is to use this and then move over to HPL SAE 5w30 / 5w40 after about 5000kms
Ive read on the facebook groups of people having positive experiences with running rotella 15w40 so i would assume you would be fine with HPL 15w40. Cant comment on the 5w50 though.
 

ramffml

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@Travis8352 What are your thoughts on using HPL SAE 15W40?
To resolve a slight tick, the mechanic is suggesting that I use a thicker oil. So I'm thinking this would be a good fit.
View attachment 513763
Or
Should I use SAE 5w50 instead.
View attachment 513764

The idea is to use this and then move over to HPL SAE 5w30 / 5w40 after about 5000kms


I'm pretty sure that thicker viscosity in and of itself doesn't help with lifter tick. And if by some chance it actually does help with your specific tick, you probably can't move back down then after 5000 kms to a thinner oil otherwise the tick would come back, no?

I personally wouldn't run a 50 weight.
 

Travis8352

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I'm pretty sure that thicker viscosity in and of itself doesn't help with lifter tick. And if by some chance it actually does help with your specific tick, you probably can't move back down then after 5000 kms to a thinner oil otherwise the tick would come back, no?

I personally wouldn't run a 50 weight.
Im contemplating a summer time run of mobil 1 supercar 5w50 just for research purpouses only. 1100 ppm phos and 1200 zinc with 165 moly. Unknown level of boron though
 

JHoward

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@Travis8352 What are your thoughts on using HPL SAE 15W40?
To resolve a slight tick, the mechanic is suggesting that I use a thicker oil. So I'm thinking this would be a good fit.
View attachment 513763
Or
Should I use SAE 5w50 instead.
View attachment 513764

The idea is to use this and then move over to HPL SAE 5w30 / 5w40 after about 5000kms

Why not ask what your mechanic friend what brand oil and weight he would recommend for you to use in your HEMI?
 
Last edited:

knightjp

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Ive read on the facebook groups of people having positive experiences with running rotella 15w40 so i would assume you would be fine with HPL 15w40. Cant comment on the 5w50 though.
For HPL, Is the formula in the 15W40 the exact same as what we would find in 5W40 or 5w30?
I've heard that for Redline and some other brands of oil, its different. For instance, PUP 5w30 is not the same as PUP 0w40.

@JHoward Good advice, but he merely suggested a thicker oil like something from Castrol, Mobile1 or even Shell Helix. He's not big on specific brands.
My thinking is that we know what works.. Redline 5w40 / 5w30. It has a proven track record. However I am looking to do some testing in the same way that @Hemi395 is doing on his truck and find an alternative to Redline in curing as well as preventing the tick.
From my thread here, Castrok Magnatec 5w30 did not prevent the tick; even after a rebuild. So I'm left with curing it and seeing if I can cure it for good.
 
Last edited:

Travis8352

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For HPL, Is the formula in the 15W40 the exact same as what we would find in 5W40 or 5w30?
I've heard that for Redline and some other brands of oil, its different. For instance, PUP 5w30 is not the same as PUP 0w40.

@JHoward Good advice, but he merely suggested a thicker oil like something from Castrol, Mobile1 or even Shell Helix. He's not big on specific brands.
My thinking is that we know what works.. Redline 5w40 / 5w30. It has a proven track record. However I am looking to do some testing in the same way that @Hemi395 is doing on his truck and find an alternative to Redline in curing as well as preventing the tick.
From my thread here, Castrok Magnatec 5w30 did not prevent the tick; even after a rebuild. So I'm left with curing it and seeing if I can cure it for good.
I do not know the answer to that question
 

Burla

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If only oil manufacturers would publish their additive ppm on their websites. Why do we have to get private tests done in order to find out how much moly they have?
There hasnt been an atsm on it. They have an atsm for tbn, so you get that additive number. They also don't have an atsm on ester content or pao content so you don't get that number. Although a few add that to an msds by default, it isnt on stat sheet unless there is an atsm, the only cut out being specific gravity, I'm not sure if they have an atsm on it. In general we only get 1/2 or less of the atsm's on motor oil as well, and these days less and less not more and more, as we see with hths and noacks fading of stat sheets, even starting tbn is being often ommited. What is interesting, moly content may have an atsm with current formulas, I don't know, but I would bet if not now it is on horizon. In general, they no longer care about protection, they no longer care of consumers get info on protective additives, they want you to know they are an authoritarian entity in charge and the only thing you are allowed to consider if fuel mileage numbers.
 

HEMIMANN

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Just a reminder, there are two different "HPL" oil blenders. In North America we are referring to

High Performance Lubricants, LLC
500 S. Spruce Street
Manteno, IL 60950
 

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  • Super-Car-Engine-Oil-PDS.pdf
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Burla

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Just a reminder, there are two different "HPL" oil blenders. In North America we are referring to

High Performance Lubricants, LLC
500 S. Spruce Street
Manteno, IL 60950
good info

kinda like their are two guys on ram forum with all the dirt on hpl, travis and hemimann, maybe toss in some ramfini. direct your questions towards them because I have nothing on this company other then it looks super promising.
 

Burla

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Yeah, if it makes it an oci, that is a lot of proof that it is the moly? You never tried the toyota 0w20 did ya? Somehow your hemi tick was cured for real? All those miles and lifters moving with all of those AW/EP additives knocked down some metal that was causing tick? Like an extended break in? Positive wear create a smooth surface for lifter bore? Crazy all of the implications of this if it holds. What was the mileage when the tick first appeared? It would have been a lot easier to explain had the valvoline failed mr hemi395, lol. Would have running this exact oil when this first started kept it quiet? So far even better then 5w20 redline run? See what I am saying, **** is crazy. Just when we had all of the answers, and this happens.

what do we know about valvoline 0w20? What specs do they have? Any pao?
 

Burla

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Which valvoline exactly?

Their valv syn power full synthetic has none of the special specs that I can see, merceges and porsche, just run of the mill stuff. But we know 0 winter rated oils in otc is generally best effort oils for manu's.

SAE 0W-20, API SP, API SN Plus/RC, API SN Plus, API SM, API SL, API RESOURCE CONSERVING (RC), ILSAC GF-6A, ILSAC GF-5, ILSAC GF-4, GM dexos 1 GEN 3 Approved, Chrysler MS-6395, FORD WSS-M2C-947-B1, FORD WSS-M2C947-A.
 

Hemi395

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Which valvoline exactly?

Their valv syn power full synthetic has none of the special specs that I can see, merceges and porsche, just run of the mill stuff. But we know 0 winter rated oils in otc is generally best effort oils for manu's.

SAE 0W-20, API SP, API SN Plus/RC, API SN Plus, API SM, API SL, API RESOURCE CONSERVING (RC), ILSAC GF-6A, ILSAC GF-5, ILSAC GF-4, GM dexos 1 GEN 3 Approved, Chrysler MS-6395, FORD WSS-M2C-947-B1, FORD WSS-M2C947-A.
Its this one in 0w20: https://www.valvoline.com/en/advanced-full-synthetic-motor-oil/
Only reason I chose that was the high moly I saw in several UOAs. If you look up the SDS it looks like its just run of the mill Group III base stock.

As for the OCI, I plan on changing to a higher viscosity oil before the camping season begins so I won't be towing my camper with a 20wt oil. Might be 3-4k by then, either way I'm definitely going to do a UOA.

About 2700 miles in it started ticking after I changed to PP 5w20 at 2500 miles. I had done a couple of flushes with PYB 5w20 before that and it was perfectly quiet and smooth. So either something decided to randomly get noisy or the PP 5w20 had something to do with it. I feel it was the PP 5w20 because my wifes old 2017 Jeep GC was loud on PP 0w20 5 years later. I won't put PP in my weedeater.
 
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Hemi395

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Heres the SDS
 

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  • VAL EZ ADV FULL SYN 0W20 3_5 QT 000000000000881150 United States - English.pdf
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Burla

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So 0w20 valvoline works, so did 0w40 amsoil, but 5w30 amsoil was the worst tick oil? I freaking surrender, lol. I got nothing. All I got was maybe the engine needed a break in that is recieved over the last decade, so now just maybe even 5w20 pp wouldnt tick as bad? It's either that or it's the moly., so looking forward to hearing how it goes. 4k miles oci? I'm sure first tow trip this summer you will have some thicker oil.
 
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