6.4l issues. 911 im lost and dont have a kitchen sink to throw at it.

2018 2500 6.4l....
8 days ago it went down hard..I looked at temp Guage and it was 0, half mile later it was dead...had new water pump put in 6 MO ago and thermostat...towed it home as it wouldn't start...I put in new thermostat, while doing so I found the upper intake bolts were loose...torqued to spec, coolant temp sensor, burped and started it up....now I got po300, 175 ,172....so I continue on w map sensor o2 sensors both upstream and spark plugs, waiting on coils to be delivered. I tried to start it yesterday and I have p0300, po172, po175, p0330. So it's multiple misfires ,running rich, and knock sensor... im loosing my mind. Im a concrete finisher by trade but good w wrenches I've got the next few days to get this figured out or job in jeopardy...this truck is my pride and joy, my best friend and enemy...I pour and finish 30-60000sqft a day and drive 1000+miles a week.. Kenosha one day and green bay the next....I love this truck but right now I'm lost...I've got a full set of gaskets in the box waiting and many other parts but idk what it is . 199,943miles warranty been up, new transmission after dealer changed transmission filter so have bitter taste on dealer and extremely low funds right now...please help? Any direction is deeply and greatly appreciated...

First off, I would start by pulling off the valve cover for the cylinder misfire and look at the rocker arm movement, you may have a wiped-out cam, don't replace any more parts till you find out the problem!!!

Wouldn't that be accompanied by the tick or a noticeable sound? I'm one of the most prepared people you'll ever meet , soon I've got a brand new cam already sitting at the house....snatched it up at a swap meet few yrs back when research indicated hemis have this issue. I'm checking Injectors right now but seeming more like electrical the way the issue is dancing through sensors...curious of the cam now though tyvm for the advice

Misfire codes can be bad but yours seem to be fuel related which could actually be good news. You probably don't want to hear this but my misfire code (sorry, can't remember the #) resulted in needing a new engine. Are you getting a flashing CEL?

find the miss firing plug coil, switch it with the one next to it, to see if it switches cylinders, as first step

I know you said money is tight, but if you can swing it trade it in on a new truck. Driving a thousand miles a week and depending on it for your income makes a 200k truck a bad bet.

Yes flashing intermittent...if I get up above 1500rpmnand keep there for min cel goes away

Stft bank 1 is positive and bank 2 is negative telling me the pcm is attempting to lean out bank 2 because too rich leading me to believe I have an injector stuck open...bank 2 sounds sluggish when listening to the tempo of the injectors firing, I understand that's probably the pcm adjusted but it's leading me that way anyways...hope I'm not misreading the bread crumbs

I'm probably going to sound like "that guy", but I don't really understand somebody complaining about money being tight and then just randomly buying and throwing parts at something. I have personally seen this a lot and in the long run most people doing this would have been better off paying to have a mechanic diagnose the issue and only replace the needed part. With that said I understand the frustration. Okay, so preaching off......
The codes are not necessarily saying a sensor is bad. Just because there is "O2 sensor" or "MAP sensor" somewhere in the code description does not automatically mean the sensor is bad. What the codes are saying is that those sensors are detecting abnormal readings that are outside of the normal range for a properly running engine. Codes 172 and 175 both basically say the engine is running rich, and not that the sensor is bad. Sure, there are times when the sensor may be bad and giving the wrong signal, but it could also be doing what it is supposed to be doing and telling you the engine is not running correctly. The 300 code states a misfire, and 330 is saying it detects a knock. Let's put these together.......the engine is running rich (unburnt gas in exhaust), has a misfire, and a knock. This is all a symptom of one or more cylinders that are not firing the ignition or completely flooding out.
In regards to the above thoughts about the two engine banks, I don't think that the ECM will try to force one bank rich or lean to compensate for the other bank that has an issue. That defeats the entire reason to have O2 sensors for each bank so if one side running fine it will continue to run fine. You need to know how much positive or negative each bank is going. I would suspect that maybe bank 2 has some big correction numbers?
One quick check for O2 sensors is that when first doing a cold start the truck will run fine until warmed up some, and then start running rough. This is because during a cold start the O2 sensors are not active until it warms up. Also, after the truck is warmed up and driving usually if you go full throttle it does not rely on the O2 sensors either, so it will "clear up" when you floor it and start running rough again under partial throttle.
For checking which cylinder is dead you can pull the connectors off the coils for each cylinder one at a time and see if the roughness at idle changes. If you kill one good firing cylinder it should be noticeable. If the cylinder is already dead (not firing) then you won't notice any difference when pulling the coil wire. You can do the same with the injectors at each cylinder.
I'm not really sure how the initial comments about replacing the thermostat and coolant temp sensor are related, except for the possibility of an overall bad job putting the engine back together after replacing the water pump (since you mentioned the intake being loose). I would be checking all of the connections with suspicions that something wasn't properly put back together or connected.

Travelin... I say money is tight because I'm not willing to pay the dealership price . it just doesn't make sense to me when a part is $100 , and I'm capable of doing the work, of paying $500 for the dealership to do it . not after I did that with the transmission ...having them change the filter and then a month later needing to put a brand new transmission in it , when the warranty had just ran out. it cost me $10,000 , the pandemic was going on , Border shut down, the only available transmission I could find was in Canada so you had in the freight fees the transmission, proper mechanic doing tbe work and then me renting a car for a month I have a hard time dealing with that , money is tight because I'm at the end of a winter and I haven't been working as much,I was hoping for suggestions on what the parts might be and someone to ask as you just have. The money statement was a way for .e to filter out the " take it to the dealership " comments as well as the " pay a mechanic. I can give you full readouts and numbers on the live data and freeze frames when codes were generated but i wasnt going to do so until asked specifically because ive seen so many " take to dealership " response on other threads. I have tested and gotten readouts on all O2 sensors and replace the two that were bad the rest have performed as expected. Everything has been leading me to a injector or two that is open I've got a slower Tempo on a couple of them and also the EGR valve has been stuck closed alothp0it did not throw a code on it but there's something that I found.

johnshipp025 said:

Travelin... I say money is tight because I'm not willing to pay the dealership price . it just doesn't make sense to me when a part is $100 , and I'm capable of doing the work, of paying $500 for the dealership to do it . not after I did that with the transmission ...having them change the filter and then a month later needing to put a brand new transmission in it , when the warranty had just ran out. it cost me $10,000 , the pandemic was going on , Border shut down, the only available transmission I could find was in Canada so you had in the freight fees the transmission, proper mechanic doing tbe work and then me renting a car for a month I have a hard time dealing with that , money is tight because I'm at the end of a winter and I haven't been working as much,I was hoping for suggestions on what the parts might be and someone to ask as you just have. The money statement was a way for .e to filter out the " take it to the dealership " comments as well as the " pay a mechanic. I can give you full readouts and numbers on the live data and freeze frames when codes were generated but i wasnt going to do so until asked specifically because ive seen so many " take to dealership " response on other threads. I have tested and gotten readouts on all O2 sensors and replace the two that were bad the rest have performed as expected. Everything has been leading me to a injector or two that is open I've got a slower Tempo on a couple of them and also the EGR valve has been stuck closed alothp0it did not throw a code on it but there's something that I found.

Click to expand...

I understand your point at the beginning of the reply above. Yes, if you know that changing the $100 part is the actual issue and replacing it will fix the truck that is one thing. However it's when somebody just randomly starts replacing multiple parts. I've seen people spend $800 on multiple parts before they got lucky and fixed the truck but didn't want to spend $500 to have a mechanic do it. Now granted I rarely ever have a shop work on my vehicles but also have training and experience on working on vehicles........no, I'm not an ASE certified mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but spent years in the automotive testing and engineering world along with always working on cars as a hobby. I will also say that a dealership is one of the last places I would take a vehicle in for non-warranty work!
Don't get me wrong, but in the original post you stated replacing the thermostat, coolant temp sensor, map sensors, O2 sensors, plugs, and had ordered coils but haven't resolved the issue yet.

johnshipp025 said:

Travelin... I say money is tight because I'm not willing to pay the dealership price . it just doesn't make sense to me when a part is $100 , and I'm capable of doing the work, of paying $500 for the dealership to do it . not after I did that with the transmission ...having them change the filter and then a month later needing to put a brand new transmission in it , when the warranty had just ran out. it cost me $10,000 , the pandemic was going on , Border shut down, the only available transmission I could find was in Canada so you had in the freight fees the transmission, proper mechanic doing tbe work and then me renting a car for a month I have a hard time dealing with that , money is tight because I'm at the end of a winter and I haven't been working as much,I was hoping for suggestions on what the parts might be and someone to ask as you just have. The money statement was a way for .e to filter out the " take it to the dealership " comments as well as the " pay a mechanic. I can give you full readouts and numbers on the live data and freeze frames when codes were generated but i wasnt going to do so until asked specifically because ive seen so many " take to dealership " response on other threads. I have tested and gotten readouts on all O2 sensors and replace the two that were bad the rest have performed as expected. Everything has been leading me to a injector or two that is open I've got a slower Tempo on a couple of them and also the EGR valve has been stuck closed alothp0it did not throw a code on it but there's something that I found.

Click to expand...

I understand not wanting to pay dealership prices, but if you don't have a scanner to pull codes and check various parameters to find out what's wrong on these newer vehicles, it's going to be cheaper and easier for you to at least head to a good mechanic and have them diagnose it. Sure, it's going to be an $80 fee (give or take some $$), but they'll tell you what they believe is wrong with it, and will even tell you what parts to change. It keeps you from just throwing various parts at it hoping what you think is wrong with it is actually wrong with it.

All I can say is I tip my hat to you DIY guys. Reading through this makes my head spin. I would be at any dealership for any brand if this was me.

I’m pretty certain the fuel/air tables are fixed for idle meaning it’s a single table rather than multiple tables based on a rpm range. So this should be a fuel, air and spark diagnosis. As well as air leaks. As previously mention coil packs. If you can get a live scan tool, you will see exactly what cylinder is doing. Sounds more like a bad fuel pump or injector or at least that is what I would look at first

johnshipp025 said:

2018 2500 6.4l....
8 days ago it went down hard..I looked at temp Guage and it was 0, half mile later it was dead...had new water pump put in 6 MO ago and thermostat...towed it home as it wouldn't start...I put in new thermostat, while doing so I found the upper intake bolts were loose...torqued to spec, coolant temp sensor, burped and started it up....now I got po300, 175 ,172....so I continue on w map sensor o2 sensors both upstream and spark plugs, waiting on coils to be delivered. I tried to start it yesterday and I have p0300, po172, po175, p0330. So it's multiple misfires ,running rich, and knock sensor... im loosing my mind. Im a concrete finisher by trade but good w wrenches I've got the next few days to get this figured out or job in jeopardy...this truck is my pride and joy, my best friend and enemy...I pour and finish 30-60000sqft a day and drive 1000+miles a week.. Kenosha one day and green bay the next....I love this truck but right now I'm lost...I've got a full set of gaskets in the box waiting and many other parts but idk what it is . 199,943miles warranty been up, new transmission after dealer changed transmission filter so have bitter taste on dealer and extremely low funds right now...please help? Any direction is deeply and greatly appreciated...

Click to expand...

Your hesitancy to have a good engine tech. look at this with a scan tool may cause you to throw unnecessary parts at the problem, and increase your frustration.

The P0330 Knock Sensor code can sometimes be triggered by something else, like an erratic Cam Sensor or even a loose bolt near the knock sensor. The fuel trims are probably out of range, so addressing the P0175 here's a list of possibilities:

+Low fuel pressure
+Clogged or defective fuel injector
+O2 sensor circuit or defective
+Out of range MAP sensor
+Vacuum leak
+Exhaust system issue - leak or clogged catalytic converter
+Powertrain Control Module or wiring
+any number of loose grounds

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 85019 miles

go to a mechanic in your area, if all warranties have run out

If you go to many of the Dodge Dealerships, first they charge $100 for a diagnosis, even if they are looking at something that has a big hole in it, or if they can't find the issue within a few minutes, they will try to tell you that it is working as designed.
Sure, the engineers designed something stupid & it costs them millions of dollars.
If you went to a real mechanic, they would use an analyzer on it, but they don't quit there, they dig deeper

ADDENDUM

My apologies, but add bad fuel to my previous post.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 85038 miles

I'm the odd dude that don't trust...well I only trust myself cause as I have learned over the 23yrs of my craft and trade...you are all you got..nobody coming to help my ass when.broke down at 3am trying to get to work before concrete shows up...and if I don't show up...and I don't perform...nobody gets paid and as I said I'm the one to blame
..I don't want to blame or be mad or second guess anyone or anything...I've tried too many times with "professionals" only to be left stranded...I owned and maintained and repaired a 12 vehicle fleet for my company for 8 yrs before we closed, everything from 1500 to long bed crane 18 wheeler. I'm completely capable...here's the big point...they were all chevys....this is my first dodge...lil learning curve...but...all that being said....problem solved...thanks for advice....

We knew it was a fuel trim or air issue the way the codes were and the live.data...
Everything pointed to egr valve....not sure why code never came up..for it specifically.. but replaced purge valve and cleaned egr...ran beautifully for about 30 min....lil driving around town and up to highway speed then pop....when it should have opened coded came up...high volt circuit then low voltage and stuck closed...new egr valve... im 160 miles from home running my ride on finish machine looking at 26,000sqft of concrete to finish ahead of me.. ..( had to fix two machines that came from the shop mechanic this morning too)...lol...**** hits the fan, you are all you have and only you can save your ass...can't quit or point fingers...live keeps going...thanks for the advice guys..much appreciated

johnshipp025 said:

I'm the odd dude that don't trust...well I only trust myself cause as I have learned over the 23yrs of my craft and trade...you are all you got..nobody coming to help my ass when.broke down at 3am trying to get to work before concrete shows up...and if I don't show up...and I don't perform...nobody gets paid and as I said I'm the one to blame
..I don't want to blame or be mad or second guess anyone or anything...I've tried too many times with "professionals" only to be left stranded...I owned and maintained and repaired a 12 vehicle fleet for my company for 8 yrs before we closed, everything from 1500 to long bed crane 18 wheeler. I'm completely capable...here's the big point...they were all chevys....this is my first dodge...lil learning curve...but...all that being said....problem solved...thanks for advice....

We knew it was a fuel trim or air issue the way the codes were and the live.data...
Everything pointed to egr valve....not sure why code never came up..for it specifically.. but replaced purge valve and cleaned egr...ran beautifully for about 30 min....lil driving around town and up to highway speed then pop....when it should have opened coded came up...high volt circuit then low voltage and stuck closed...new egr valve... im 160 miles from home running my ride on finish machine looking at 26,000sqft of concrete to finish ahead of me.. ..( had to fix two machines that came from the shop mechanic this morning too)...lol...**** hits the fan, you are all you have and only you can save your ass...can't quit or point fingers...live keeps going...thanks for the advice guys..much appreciated

Click to expand...

Damn dude this was actually inspirational to read. Hell ya.

I appreciate all the advise...have you ever noticed that guy that's quietly just in the distance of the crowd...doesn't fully engage in the socal riggamaro, carry himself modestly and humble, doesn't give off that vibe Luke he knows it all of maybe even .."isn't all there"....or how about that guy at the casino poker tables...dressed almost like a hobo...few chips in his stack...no friends or crowds...but the dealers all know him and chat him up....hi!!!! That's the kinda personality type of myself...I never show all...play dumb...don't want the extra attention , would rather keep the masses second guessing AND UNDER THE IMPRESSION THEY KNOW ALL...My moms favorite line when I was a kid ( I can hear her say it still) "NEVER make an ASSUMPTION! Not only are you probably wrong, but you just made an ASS OUT OF YOU AND ME!".... The assumption I don't have the knowledge or the...tools...in this case...SCAN/code reader tool...was foolish...innova 5210...but as previously stated on many threads is a tool with a strange language...that in it speaks to you almost backwards...I got this way about things that I obsessively verify and learn....and never ever show all my cards...good vibes sent from this humble dude to all...best of life hope you get