17" Wheels on a Rough Country 6" lift

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RamElliot

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So, I want to run 17" wheels on my 2014 Ram 1500 with a 6" Rough Country lift but they say that I have to run 20" wheels. I am not a fan of the "bro wheels". Can anyone tell me what the issue is and if there is a way around it?
 

JJEH

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So, I want to run 17" wheels on my 2014 Ram 1500 with a 6" Rough Country lift but they say that I have to run 20" wheels. I am not a fan of the "bro wheels". Can anyone tell me what the issue is and if there is a way around it?
Welcome to the forum. Most likely your brake calipers or axle geometry are in the way, but 18" shouldn't be an issue.

Edit:

I stand corrected!


Also, https://www.cjcoffroad.com/pages/ultimate-dodge-ram-wheel-tire-fitment-guide

I hope this helps.
 
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RamElliot

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I understand that 17" wheels are fine on a stock truck, however, Rough Country specifically states that nothing smaller than 20" fits. I'm trying to understand why.
 

bretthays

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I am doing a 6” lift and keeping my 17” wheels as well. Only lift I found that would work was the Zone, or I assume also BDS. I called each manufacturer to verify as well.
 

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I understand that 17" wheels are fine on a stock truck, however, Rough Country specifically states that nothing smaller than 20" fits. I'm trying to understand why.
Rough Country is a marketing company. Don't fall for the trap youll spend more money fixing quirks than the few dollars saved during the initial purchase. Believe me I literally talk to Ram guys with buyer remorse daily
 

Quick_Shifter

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So, I want to run 17" wheels on my 2014 Ram 1500 with a 6" Rough Country lift but they say that I have to run 20" wheels. I am not a fan of the "bro wheels". Can anyone tell me what the issue is and if there is a way around it?
The knuckles provided in the kit interfere with certain sized wheels so instead of doing R&D a blanket statement of 20" wheels was released. So dont buy a "Bro Suspension"
 

smoothee

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I've been running 17's with 4" RC lift for years with no issues, probably comes down to the wheel specs. Regardless of what you ask them though, "no" seems like their go to answer.
 
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RamElliot

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If you think you do, then, yes.
 

ThunderMug95

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Too funny! I’m imagining my 17 year old saying that! If I were heavy offroad I wouldve went with an 18”, but for my uses, the sidewall is sufficient. Now…I believe the second image below is more akin to the terminology. I think a better wording is “Brah” because these require these require curly hair or a mullet protruding from a flat-billed ballcap, Oakey Blades, and a Carolina Squat.

Pic 1 - Semi-Brah or Semi- Yeet
1677764418567.png
Pic 2 - Full Brah / Full Yeet

1677764533389.png

Whats this called?
1677764933948.png
 

62Blazer

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By looking through the install manual and parts it has to be related to the replacement steering knuckle. My first guess would be the new location of the tierod end in comparison to the wheel. The new knuckle raises the tierod location up quite a bit, and when doing so it also puts in further away from the wheel centerline which would require larger wheels to clear.

In regards to some other posts, if a stock vehicle can run 17" wheels than it obviously has nothing to do with the brake caliper clearance now needing 20" wheels.....it's in the exact same spot relative to the tire and wheel as before!

Also, it's not like a group of Rough Country guys were sitting around a table and just randomly said "hey, let's say you have to run 20" wheels just for the hell of it". Say what you want about parts manufacturers and even Rough Country, but why would they say this if it wasn't true and they found some fitment issues with smaller wheels? Granted, there could be an easy work-around to run 17s and maybe even some models could fit them with no modifications. But they obviously ran into some issues that required 20" wheels at some point in time.
 

RedRebel16

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I currently am running 17 stock rims on my 6” RC lift on my 2016 Rebel. I had to use 2” wheel spacers to make it work. Issues is with their knuckles is mounting spots for sway bar / tie rod ends hits rim with no spacer. I bearly clear it on my set up. You can run 17” aftermarket if it has big enough backspacing with no spacer.88016BEF-00CE-413E-B297-9FDF33FEEABF.jpeg4A65A1A3-7E7C-4831-9AEE-80FE4F26C94D.jpeg16FA1123-221F-46B4-A85A-80FC64FF5700.jpeg35C99DA2-2118-4224-85F7-634199A656D9.jpeg
 
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JC4041

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They say that due to backspacing, my 18's barely rubbed the tires....but a 1/4 spacer fixed that. (struts were being replaced, don't freak out over the knuckle being loose)

#rub.jpg
 

Minotaur 013

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790DB3FC-FC23-42DD-B6BE-BA2092C4544D.jpeg
These are 20” wheels with 35x12.5xR20 Kenda Klever RT’s. Don’t think these are “bro” wheels. Thought about putting 37s but want to keep my 14” of suspension travel without modifying anything.
 

bcbouy

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Too funny! I’m imagining my 17 year old saying that! If I were heavy offroad I wouldve went with an 18”, but for my uses, the sidewall is sufficient. Now…I believe the second image below is more akin to the terminology. I think a better wording is “Brah” because these require these require curly hair or a mullet protruding from a flat-billed ballcap, Oakey Blades, and a Carolina Squat.

Pic 1 - Semi-Brah or Semi- Yeet
View attachment 515067
Pic 2 - Full Brah / Full Yeet

View attachment 515068

Whats this called?
View attachment 515074
fugly
 
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